[SOLVED] PC absolutely freezes when I start a game

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helpplsxd

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May 7, 2020
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Hello,

I have a problem with my pc for a long time and I cant find the solution what it could be.

like 70% times when I start some game that has a little bit more good graphics my PC absolutely freezes, like screen is freezed, even cursor is freezed, I cant move with cursor and my speakers do like repetitive sound like t r r r r r r haha if you get what I mean.

But the weird thing is that it freezes I would say just when I start the game like in max 30 seconds im in the game it freezes, but if it survives these 30 seconds then it won't crash ever, like I could play for 5 hours and its not crashing.

And then the only thing what I can do is turn the PC off with power supply button,

I don't know what it could cause but my though is that it could be graphic card or something because it only happens when I play graphicaly difficult games, I have AMD Radeon rx590.

So then the only way how I can normaly start game is like start PC start the game and then it usually freezes so I need to repeat this till it not freezes ( can take like 2-5 tries ) and then when it finally not freezes I can play it normally.

BTW: I bought new SSD and new RAMs and it's still happening so it's not caused by these two things

Don't somebody have a clue what this could be caused by?

Thank you so much for reading everything and helping me :)
 
Solution
For the most part I believe that the PSU is a likely suspect. Especially if the PSU is around 2 years old and has been heavily used for gaming, video editing, or even mining.

PSUs can fail catastrophically (just go dead and never work again) or they can slowly degrade over time until reaching some threshold condition where too much load or too sudden of an increase in load cause the PSU to falter. Some components may continue to work (fans for example), other components (RAM for example) may not.

Remember PSU's provide three different voltages (3, 5, 12) to the host computer. A problem with any given voltage can manifest in different ways: may depend on what the system is doing. Idling, light browsing, simple work, or...
Sounds like a bad driver for your 590 i would remove it using DDU and reinstall it from AMD and see if that makes any difference.

Thank you for your tip but I tried this now reinstalling with DDU and it's still the same thing no any change

I installed the exact drivers for my GPU from radeon site exactly for rx590

I reinstalled even windows so it can't be even any errors in windows or something.
 
What you are describing could well be caused by the PSU. The review for yours is so-so. Can you try a better quality one and see if that solves it?

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/be-quiet-pure-power-9-600w-power-supply,4516.html
How likely do you think it could be the PSU? Or like if you have some idea if it could be even something else or like if I can somehow discover if it for sure this thing because right now I don't have any other PSU to try and wouldn't like to invest into a new one and then realize it's not this thing
 
What hardware in the pc?

download hwinfo,
install and open it=click run,
close the top window which is the system summary,
in the main window at the left top click "save report",
at the bottom of the next window check "Summary for Clipboard",
after that you'll see what's in the pc,
copy by clicking "copy to clipboard" and rightclick+paste in your next respons

or do a run with Userbenchmark and leave a link to the results here.
 
do you have a PC store maybe you can take you pc and have it checked out cause even if the GPU and windows and PSU is not the culprit it still leaves your motherboard your ram and your HDD/SSD. I dont think this is a CPU issue but who knows.
 
This is from proprietary system, at least the motherboard it seems. Is it standard ATX , so does it use a normal 24 pin connector for the psu or do you use an adapter? Looking at some pictures right now which make me feel it is the latter, but would like to hear it from you. Adapters can give issues. Looking abit further,seems it is 24 pin, but really like to know.

The cpu "only" turbo's to 3.3ghz which might indicate heat problems. May be another motherboard/bios limitation.

With proprietary may also come incompatibility with certain ram, something more generic and 2400mhz would maybe have been a better choice with a motherboard like yours.
 
I am sure if you provided a full report on( "system information") one of us could help you with hardware information tweaks and program settings.
I recommend 550 or 600 WATT gold rated PSU's for your GPU and other hardware There is no need to over power a system.

Too free ram memory, type advanced system settings in the task bar search to get there. Find performance, on advanced Tab then visual effects TAB then click on settings, Then adjust to best performance, click apply.
I would manage your startup applications and anything running in the background effecting your system, if you typed system information in your task bar to bring it up and highlighted it and pasted it, and just deleted your PC name and other personal information out of it so it would be safe to post here. The average person is effected by windows 10 or 11 spyware, so keep in mind by going to privacy settings and turning off a lot of apps permissions and apps from running in the background eat a lot of ram memory and processing power from your CPU.
 
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I don't use any adapter, it's standard 24 pin and also the ram isn't the problem because I had there 2400 mhz ram before and it did exactly the same.

Also I'm not really sure what proprietary system is or like what it would mean if it would be this?

Thank you
 
Windows basic installed factory settings have to be one of the main issue's, The tip I suggest in my first comment helps free ram for gaming, if you click on the start then click on the settings gear scroll down to privacy and start disabling app privacy violating settings, turning a bunch of things off you don't need that slow your computer down, then scroll down, go to background apps disable everything you do not use, preventing stuff from running in the background, your CPU can't handle all that with gaming, so your going to have to go through all your windows settings here to speed your system-up.... Work with what you got before you ruin it, if that's your PC case in the link, you don't got much cooling.
 
Windows basic installed factory settings have to be one of the main issue's, The tip I suggest in my first comment helps free ram for gaming, if you click on the start then click on the settings gear scroll down to privacy and start disabling app privacy violating settings, turning a bunch of things off you don't need that slow your computer down, then scroll down, go to background apps disable everything you do not use, preventing stuff from running in the background, your CPU can't handle all that with gaming, so your going to have to go through all your windows settings here to speed your system-up.... Work with what you got before you ruin it, if that's your PC case in the link, you don't got much cooling.

Thank you for answer but I don't think these settings would help because there is 32 GB ram and I don't think it needs to free ram

And these problems appeared after a long time that I changed things in my pc so I don't really know
 
here is a link for support manuals you can look-up your motherboards support guide here, "https://manualzz.com/models/846"
I also found a cheap computer case if you ever wanted to transfer to a gaming case with better cooling.The case is around $50 USD free shipping on ebay, you will need your motherboards support manual if you want to transfer your hardware to a better case plus, when intel CPU's get dirty they run horrible because of micron sized dust effects processing in the cpu socket, always good to study support manuals for your motherboard and update your bio's if that is one of the issues, if your button battery is dying you can get system freezes, best replacing it, learn your hot key first to get into your BIO"S settings before replacing the battery with a

CR2032 Lithium Battery 3V Coin Cell,


Cougar MX330-G Computer Case

  1. Click Start.
  2. In the search bar, type CMD .
  3. Right-click CMD.exe and select Run as Administrator.
  4. On the User Account Control (UAC) prompt, click Yes.
  5. In the command prompt window, type SFC /scannow and press Enter .
  6. System file checker utility checks the integrity of Windows system files and repairs them if required.
  7. copied from Dell.com to help repair system file corruption.
 
here is a link for support manuals you can look-up your motherboards support guide here, "https://manualzz.com/models/846"
I also found a cheap computer case if you ever wanted to transfer to a gaming case with better cooling.The case is around $50 USD free shipping on ebay, you will need your motherboards support manual if you want to transfer your hardware to a better case plus, when intel CPU's get dirty they run horrible because of micron sized dust effects processing in the cpu socket, always good to study support manuals for your motherboard and update your bio's if that is one of the issues, if your button battery is dying you can get system freezes, best replacing it, learn your hot key first to get into your BIO"S settings before replacing the battery with a

CR2032 Lithium Battery 3V Coin Cell,


Cougar MX330-G Computer Case
  1. Click Start.
  2. In the search bar, type CMD .
  3. Right-click CMD.exe and select Run as Administrator.
  4. On the User Account Control (UAC) prompt, click Yes.
  5. In the command prompt window, type SFC /scannow and press Enter .
  6. System file checker utility checks the integrity of Windows system files and repairs them if required.
  7. copied from Dell.com to help repair system file corruption.

The case also won't be a problem I would say because sometimes it's running normally and sometimes it just freezes so if it would be overheating it wouldn't run normaly for many hours then

Also I've never touched the CPU it's from factory so I wouldn't say there got some dirt or something because like computers are normally withoout some CPU
maintenance for years and running normally

And with the battery how this can happen that battery is dying? I have this board for like 4 years it's not that old that it should die or like idk
 
Think of your CPU like a motor and changing the load(settings) effect the over-all performance for the tasks you want to complete, everything you do will help, you can also down load windows SDK kit for your version of windows that have direct-x runtimes and other stuff that will help improve system stability, your direct-x runtimes could have file corruption and you can go to program settings and repair them from oldest to newest, and down-load free version of "https://www.ccleaner.com/" to speed your system up from tracking cookies or stored web links that make your system vulnerable.
 
Most button 3-volt batteries last 3-5 years, the one I posted can last almost 7-10 years if the computer is in use every day. The big chance that your computer just needs a cleaning with a can of air and a vac, I don't know your total state of your computers condition, if you do replace your battery and learn your hot key to get into the bio's setting upon booting your system, find the option to set it to optimized defaults, save and exit. This will be my last comment here.
 
@helpplsxd

1) Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

Include PSU, make (Be Quiet noted) , model, wattage, age, condition (original, new, refurbished, used)?

Disk drive(s): make, model, capacity, how full?

2) Look in Reliability History and Event Viewer for error codes, warnings, and even informational events that preceded or occurred at the times the system froze. Errors can be clicked for more details: however, the details may or may not prove helpful.

Start with Reliability History. The time line format is very useful and may provide a clear indication of when the problems began. An increasing number of errors and varying errors are, to me, an indication of a failing or faltering PSU.

Another place to look is Update History. Check for any problem or failed updates.

3) Use Task Manager and Resource Monitor to observe system performance. Use both tools but only one tool at a time. Boot up, open the tool, and just watch for awhile. Then do some light work and browsing. Pay attention to what changes. Then launch a game while continuing to observe. You may catch some change in resources that leads to or precedes a crash.

Remember: you are troubleshooting and not playing to win.

Key is to pay attention to what resources are being used, to what extent ( % ), and what is using any given resource.

= = = =

Also: new parts can be defective so being "new" does not automatically exclude said parts from being a potential problem.
 
@helpplsxd

1) Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

Include PSU, make (Be Quiet noted) , model, wattage, age, condition (original, new, refurbished, used)?

Disk drive(s): make, model, capacity, how full?

2) Look in Reliability History and Event Viewer for error codes, warnings, and even informational events that preceded or occurred at the times the system froze. Errors can be clicked for more details: however, the details may or may not prove helpful.

Start with Reliability History. The time line format is very useful and may provide a clear indication of when the problems began. An increasing number of errors and varying errors are, to me, an indication of a failing or faltering PSU.

Another place to look is Update History. Check for any problem or failed updates.

3) Use Task Manager and Resource Monitor to observe system performance. Use both tools but only one tool at a time. Boot up, open the tool, and just watch for awhile. Then do some light work and browsing. Pay attention to what changes. Then launch a game while continuing to observe. You may catch some change in resources that leads to or precedes a crash.

Remember: you are troubleshooting and not playing to win.

Key is to pay attention to what resources are being used, to what extent ( % ), and what is using any given resource.

= = = =

Also: new parts can be defective so being "new" does not automatically exclude said parts from being a potential problem.

Hey,

So I tried to look into Reliability History but it doesn't say anything or at least I didn't find anything. Only thing that I found is that there were 23 critical events but when I checked which evens it was that windows was closed unexpectionaly ( this was caused by me when I turn off the PC with turning off PSU because it freezed and there is nothing else to do )

Then I tried to monitor the processes with task manager and I tried to turn on this online test: https://web.basemark.com/run/tests/30/graphics_suite/draw-call_stress_test/

For the first time when I turned on this test, my PC freezed as usually, then I started again and it didn't and while checking the processes and I saw that when it's going it says that usage of energy is very high from google chrome, I am not sure if this could mean something or if it's always like this.

Also I updated chipset and no changes were made.

System specifications:

The PC was originaly Acer aspire ax-780 but I made changes in this and these are that I changed GPU, PSU, SSD and RAMs, for

PSU: be quiet! - system power 9 - 600w

https://www.bequiet.com/cz/powersupply/1279

GPU: AMD Radeon RX590

https://www.amd.com/en/products/graphics/radeon-rx-590

RAM: Kingston FURY 32GB KIT DDR4 3200MHz

https://www.smarty.cz/Kingston-FURY-Beast-32GB-3200MHz-DDR4-CL16-DIMM-2x16GB-1Gx8-Black-p78717

SSD: SAMSUNG SSD 1 TB - 284 GB used includes windows

https://www.datart.cz/ssd-samsung-8...fp_LT9eUoamd5MAd3D2pTLRxsbBCawJgaAkWgEALw_wcB

All the components that I bought were new never used before, and the problems were there even before I changed RAM and SSD

Also another fact is that I have GPU and PSU like 1.5 - 2 years but the problems appeared like 3-4 months ago
 
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For the most part I believe that the PSU is a likely suspect. Especially if the PSU is around 2 years old and has been heavily used for gaming, video editing, or even mining.

PSUs can fail catastrophically (just go dead and never work again) or they can slowly degrade over time until reaching some threshold condition where too much load or too sudden of an increase in load cause the PSU to falter. Some components may continue to work (fans for example), other components (RAM for example) may not.

Remember PSU's provide three different voltages (3, 5, 12) to the host computer. A problem with any given voltage can manifest in different ways: may depend on what the system is doing. Idling, light browsing, simple work, or gaming.

PSU's can be tested to some extent if you have a multi-meter and know how to use it. Or know someone who does.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

The test is not a full test because the PSU is not under load. However, any voltages out of spec are an indication that the PSU is not properly working.

If at all possible install another known working PSU of at least 600 watts. Do not mix in or use cables from other PSUs.
 
Solution
For the most part I believe that the PSU is a likely suspect. Especially if the PSU is around 2 years old and has been heavily used for gaming, video editing, or even mining.

PSUs can fail catastrophically (just go dead and never work again) or they can slowly degrade over time until reaching some threshold condition where too much load or too sudden of an increase in load cause the PSU to falter. Some components may continue to work (fans for example), other components (RAM for example) may not.

Remember PSU's provide three different voltages (3, 5, 12) to the host computer. A problem with any given voltage can manifest in different ways: may depend on what the system is doing. Idling, light browsing, simple work, or gaming.

PSU's can be tested to some extent if you have a multi-meter and know how to use it. Or know someone who does.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

The test is not a full test because the PSU is not under load. However, any voltages out of spec are an indication that the PSU is not properly working.

If at all possible install another known working PSU of at least 600 watts. Do not mix in or use cables from other PSUs.

Okay,

So I bought new PSU believing that you are right and it was really the solution, now is working everything perfectly with 0 freezes

Thank you so much!
 
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