PC blows fusebox when I turn on psu.

Jack_paric

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Jan 23, 2017
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So I built my new rig for christmas and sometimes, lik seven, maybe eight times out of ten it blows my fusebox (the fusebox that every house/flat has, the box that powers all the outlets). It blows it when I press the button on my psu. I tried getting another extension cord. My dad tried putting in newwer fuse into the fusebox, but it still happens.
Yesterday an hour into my gaming session, the fuses blew out when least expected. The fuse in the fusebox is 10 amp my pc has rm 650x corasir psu

here are all other specs (brand new):
asus maximus ix hero
corsair rm650x
i7-7700k
asus strix a8gb gtx 1080 advanced edition
inwin 805 infinity
samsug evo 850 250 gb ssd
corsair h110i w/corsair hd140
gskill trident z rgb 3200mhz 16 gb 2x8 gb dual channel
3* corsair hd120 case fans

I have three questions.Well actually one
1: could it do that because I built something in my rig incorrectly.
2: is 10 amps fuse too weak for my pc
3: why is it doing if not because those two above.

thx for answers.
 
Solution
1. possibly, but unlikely, given that it works.
2. shouldn't be, depending on your local voltages that'll cope with approx 1.2 or 2.2 kw, you'll be pulling maybe 400w from the wall.
3. I would suggest a faulty PSU (it's not a bad one, you are just unlucky), is it tripping the RCD or the fuse (Subtle difference), the RCD will trip when the current down the earth path gets too high, it should be zero, and will trip at about 30milli amps, indicating an intermittent short somewhere inside the PSU. If it is tripping the fuse itself then somehow it is pulling more than twice what it is designed to consume, this should be generating a lot of heat, so i suspect it's really the RCD that's going.
1. possibly, but unlikely, given that it works.
2. shouldn't be, depending on your local voltages that'll cope with approx 1.2 or 2.2 kw, you'll be pulling maybe 400w from the wall.
3. I would suggest a faulty PSU (it's not a bad one, you are just unlucky), is it tripping the RCD or the fuse (Subtle difference), the RCD will trip when the current down the earth path gets too high, it should be zero, and will trip at about 30milli amps, indicating an intermittent short somewhere inside the PSU. If it is tripping the fuse itself then somehow it is pulling more than twice what it is designed to consume, this should be generating a lot of heat, so i suspect it's really the RCD that's going.
 
Solution


well I dont quite understand your answer to 3, but my psu is never hot and the fan doesnt even start running.
please explaina bit more i dont understand electricity that much but what happens is that i switch on the switch and my fuses switch off. I dont know how else should i explain it.
 
that PSU is faulty.

Given your level of understanding I would suggest no other course of action than replacing it, if you were more experienced, or knew someone that was, then i'd suggest taking it out of the case, and rebuilding it on an insulating surface (wooden table), so you can be sure it's not a build issue.

You used the right screws, all of them very short, no more than 5mm long or thereabouts?
 
You might want to check what else is wired to the same breaker as that power outlet. If there's another high power device on the same circuit, it could cause those kinds of problems. For example, an electric heater, or a microwave oven. You might want to test a different power outlet, perhaps in a different room and see whether the problem occurs there as well.
 


I used the screws that came with the psu, they were the only ones ther.
do you think that they will replace/repair my psu where I bought it , because i bought more parts at once?
also, cryburner stated that if I have more things wired. well I have a lot of things: wifi, that water- heating thing, monitor extender pc two lights two hard drives and some more smaller things. could this also be teh issue?
also month back , the pc was ok for a week. i started it like 7-8 times and it didnt blow fuses. thats kinda weird because i think it shouldnt pause like this...

and also I built it on a wooden floor, every time touching some metal like radiator so id get some of that static electricity grounded.
 
Yeah.. It's important to know what that 'everything is'. As stated earlier by others, we need to determine how many amps or watts you are pulling. I'm guessing you're on a 220V, 50hz, 10amp circuit which I'm not really familiar with. But assuming what I know about electricity applies, that gives your circuit a max load of 2200 watts. If 13thmonkeys assumption that your pc is using 400 watts, that leaves 1800 watts available on the circuit.

If you have 1800 watts of load coming from other appliances in the flat (lights, refrigerator, air conditioner, heater, water heater, fan, tv, etc), then your computer is simply the adding to that total load, exceeding the circuit max of 10amps/2200 watts and blowing the fuse. The only solution to that is to take something off the circuit or move your computer to a different circuit.

Do you have more than one circuit in your flat?

For reference, If you flip a switch, you are resetting a breaker. If you unscrew a 'cap' and replace it, then you are replacing a fuse. A fuse blows or burns up to cut the circuit. A breaker flips to an open state to break the circuit.
 


1800 is an assumption based on 220V, what if he's on 110V? 1800W is a lot of power, the 'water heating thing' intrigues me, they might pull quite a lot, almost everything else, except for ovens and heaters will pull very little. Toasters are a big load too.
 


so to make thingks clear my english skills in the "electricity" section arent that good, so here is an explination:
when I turned on my psu, it flipped the breaker switch very often, so we replaced the fuse, which didnt help.
I also replaced extension cord, but that didnt help. yesterday I wanted to post that I figured out that I was running on two extension cords, so removed the middle one and now *fingers crossed* after three turn ons it didnt switch the breaker off, however that could just me being lucky. i didnt post that yesterday because toms hardware server went down and I couldn post anything.
Right now it looks good but only time will tell.
Thanks alot everyone.
 


Well, yeah, if he's on 110V/10A, then his circuit maxes at 1100 watts. I work in schools and have problems every winter. Since most school buildings are old, they don't have nearly as many circuits installed as new buildings. So any combination of space heaters, and printers (laserjet fusers) flips 15 and 20 amp breakers constantly. Your standard space heater is 800-1500 watts, a printer is 300+. It doesn't take much.