Since the reinstall I've only had one single crash while playing BG3, the same one as before where my screens would go dark and I had to manually force shutdown it. I haven't tried playing the game since then because I'm honestly kinda scared, but I have not been getting any random crashes or restarts so far, even when playing other games.
At this point, would it be safe to say that your PC operates fine? And clean Win install removed the issues (other games crashing, random restarts)? If so, i'd wait for BG3 update/hotfix before playing it.
The following of my reply is for info and optional things you could do, if you like;
he even gave me a 1600w PSU to try plugging to my PC and see if I crash, however the day he borrowed it to me I actually reinstalled Baldur's gate and the game didn't crash at all so I just thought that fixed the issue and gave the PSU back. Honestly thinking about maybe grabbing it again to try.
While 1.6kW PSU is beefy, it all comes down to the make and model of the PSU. There are bad quality PSUs out there, even at that high capacity.
With PC fixed, other than BG3 crashing on you, testing with 2nd PSU wouldn't give any better results since it's the game that has an issue. Now, if the random restarts would've remained after removal of Ryzen Master and clean Win install, then yes, testing with 2nd PSU would've been another step regarding hardware troubleshooting.
I have a Gigabyte GPU so I guess it's an AIB?
Yes. It is aftermarket GPU and those usually have better power delivery and cooling compared to Nvidia's FE version.
As for my case, I followed the instructions they gave for fans. The AIO on top is exhaust, I have 2 on the back that are exhaust as well, and 3 each on the side and bottom that are intake.
So, your fans have correct orientation. This removes one possible culprit as of why your GPU reached 80+C.
RTX 3070 FE reaches peak 69C, review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-founders-edition-review/6
So, issue why you have such high GPU temps come down to 2 possible options;
1. GPU itself
2. Case fans are spinning too slowly
Since you got used GPU, there's no telling in what kind of shape the cooler is on it. Could be that it needs thermal paste/pads change. Though, while something you could do, it would be a bit of waste of effort, especially when you plan to upgrade your GPU in (near) future.
While you have plenty of case fans, i guess you have them spinning such that you can hardly hear them? If so, and depending on the case fan make and model (which i don't know), it could be too little for proper airflow inside your PC case. Testing it is easy, just increase the case fan speeds. E.g set the fans to the max and look if GPU temps still reach 80+C. If it doesn't, keep the case fans spinning at higher speeds.
I'm also running Win 11 on a 1TB Samsung 870 EVO.
I have no experience with Win11, so i can not tell if the 6h installation time is average or high. I'm running Win10 myself. Though, for 870 Evo SSD (great SSD btw, have several of them in my PCs as well, but 2TB variants), i don't think the SSD itself would be the issue. Also, you could install Samsung Magician, which tells the health status of your drive,
link:
https://semiconductor.samsung.com/consumer-storage/support/tools/
Side question, if I were to get a new PSU, how important is the certificate? Should I get a platinum 80 plus or is gold okay as well?
Efficiency certificate doesn't tell how good of a build quality PSU is. It just shows how much power PSU is wasting as excess heat.
To explain PSU's efficiency, they are rated by
80 Plus standard; whereby different levels are;
* 80+ (aka White) <- Never buy 80+ PSU since at current date, those are low/crap quality.
* 80+ Bronze <- Used to be the norm ~15 years ago. Nowadays, best to be avoided.
* 80+ Silver <- Only very few PSUs had it.
* 80+ Gold <- Current norm.
* 80+ Platinum <- Only few PSUs have it.
* 80+ Titanium <- Best there is.
I'll give you efficiency example, with 400W load on PSU and 3 different PSUs: 650W 80+ Titanium, 1000W 80+ Titanium, 1000W 80+ Gold. Also, keep in mind that PSU is most efficient when load on it is 50%-80% of it's max rated capacity.
For 650W unit, i'll take my own PSU, Seasonic PRIME TX-650 80+ Titanium [SSR-650TD] as an example (btw, the best PSU money could buy at the time of purchase, back in 2016, and still, one of the best, if not the best, PSU out there).
80+ Titanium PSU has efficiency rating of:
On 20% load - 94%
On 50% load - 96%
On 100% load - 94%
So, for e.g. 400W load on my 650W unit, would be 61.5%, meaning that the PSU is 96% efficient, where only 4% of power is wasted as excess heat. Meaning that the PSU draws 416W from the wall, gives 400W to components and wastes only 16W as excess heat.
Same 400W load on 1kW PSU (e.g Seasonic PRIME TX-1000 80+ Titanium) would mean that the PSU is 94% efficient, since load on PSU would be 40%. Meaning that PSU draws 424W from the wall, gives 400W to components and wastes 24W as excess heat.
But if you'd get 1kW 80+ Gold PSU, which is the norm today (e.g Seasonic PRIME GX-1000 80+ Gold), with efficiency ratings of:
On 20% load - 90%
On 50% load - 92%
On 100% load - 89%
Would mean that on 400W load, PSU is 90% efficient. In this case, PSU pulls 440W from wall, gives 400W to components and wastes 40W as excess heat.
For most people, paying far more for 80+ Titanium PSU isn't justified due to small gains in PSU's efficiency. Hence why many go for 80+ Gold unit, which is current norm today. Still, 80+ Titanium PSU, in the long run can make up for the higher initial cost.
For your build and if you get RTX 3090, max load on your PSU should be around 800W. ~660W peak of RTX 3090 and ~150W for the rest of the system. On web browsing, without GPU transient power spikes, load on PSU would remain in the 300W ballpark.
What are GPU transient power spikes? A video to watch;
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRyyCsuHFQ
Though, for PSUs, build quality is far more important than the 80+ efficiency certificate. Good PSUs to go for are Seasonic Focus/PRIME or Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi. For other options, anything from Tier A will also do,
PSU Tier list:
https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/
E.g any of these 4x 1kW units are great, pcpp:
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/VDqBD3,fKhmP6,4GK2FT,43JgXL/
Consult the PSU Tier list to see which 1+kW are good, since there are beefy PSUs out there that are mediocre quality or even low/crap quality.
To avoid: Silverstone, Thermaltake, Be Quiet!, EVGA (select units).
To look for: Seasonic, Super Flower, Corsair, NZXT.
Though, you can also look the reliability of PSU by the warranty given to it.
In a nutshell, regarding PSU's warranty:
up to 2 years - terrible reliability
3 years - poor reliability (e.g Corsair VS/CS)
5 years - mediocre reliability (e.g Be Quiet! Straight Power 11, Seasonic G12, Corsair CX/CXF)
7 years - good reliability (e.g Seasonic Core/Focus GM, Corsair TX/AX)
10 years - great reliability (e.g Seasonic Focus GX/PX, Corsair RMx/HX/HXi/AXi)
12 years - superb reliability (e.g Seasonic PRIME)
Look for a PSU that has at least 10 years of warranty.
Edit:
Oh, final word about PSU's efficiency; As i said, 80+ Titanium (or 80+ Platinum unit in that matter), is hard to justify the extra cost over 80+ Gold PSU. E.g Seasonic PRIME GX-1000 vs PRIME TX-1000. Price diff could be double. Now, i'm running 80+ Titanium PSUs myself since i also have UPSes in use and i can not afford PSU pulling more power from UPS, thus reducing my UPS runtime. If you don't have an UPS, you should get one. It safeguards your PC from electricity grid issues. But when you're running without UPS and electricity bill doesn't break your bank, then paying less for 80+ Gold unit is fine.
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