Question PC Cuts out during Gaming

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hippotype

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Jan 1, 2015
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My PC as of today will cut power during gaming. I built the PC around about November time. It has worked fine without issue until today. I can load a game and get around 5 minutes into gaming at which point the PC will just shutdown and immediately restart.

As far as I can tell this isn't an overheating issue, as I had an eye on the temperature overlay and I didn't see the GPU go above 70C or any of the CPU cores go above 60C. I do not have any spare PSU to test if this is a PSU issue nor do I have a spare GPU. I have updated my GPU driver and it did not help.

This problem only occurs during gaming and has only started today after months of it working without a problem. The screen will just go black and then immediately the PC will start up again, the fans seem to be spinning faster than when the PC was running the game but I don't actually know as I don't know the fan speed either time.

Please let me know how I can get more information to figure out what the problem is.

PC Specs:
PSU - EVGA Gold 750W 210-Gq-0750-V3
RAM - KLEVV BOLT 16GB 3600MHz DDR4-RAM
MOTHERBOARD - MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4
SSD - Crucial MX500 500GB
GPU - MSI GeForce RTX 3080 Gaming Z TRIO 10G
Cooling System - Corsair iCUE H100i PRO XT
Processor - i5 12600k LGA1700
 
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rgd1101 said:
full system spec? include brand and model of the psu
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Sorry forgot about that

PC Specs:
PSU - EVGA Gold 750W 210-Gq-0750-V3
RAM - KLEVV BOLT 16GB 3600MHz DDR4-RAM
MOTHERBOARD - MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4
SSD - Crucial MX500 500GB
GPU - MSI GeForce RTX 3080 Gaming Z TRIO 10G
Cooling System - Corsair iCUE H100i PRO XT
Processor - i5 12600k LGA1700
 
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The GQ has been noted to have some problem with high-end 30-series cards. FSP using the active clamp reset forward topology to save EVGA money instead of the better Super Flower or SeaSonic platforms that they had previously used really had a negative result here. A lot of the GQs and similarly made PSUs really struggle with the huge transients of cards like a 3080. One of the many reasons it's important to have a top tier PSU with a GPU like this. It could also be something else, but the PSU is impossible to rule out with the current one in the mix; it wasn't a good choice with this hardware and it possibly reflects cost-saving in the wrong area.
 
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DSzymborski said:
The GQ has been noted to have some problem with high-end 30-series cards. FSP using the active clamp reset forward topology to save EVGA money instead of the better Super Flower or SeaSonic platforms that they had previously used really had a negative result here. A lot of the GQs and similarly made PSUs really struggle with the huge transients of cards like a 3080. One of the many reasons it's important to have a top tier PSU with a GPU like this. It could also be something else, but the PSU is impossible to rule out with the current one in the mix; it wasn't a good choice with this hardware and it possibly reflects cost-saving in the wrong area.
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I definitely tried to save a bit of money on the PSU. This was my first time building a PC and I assumed as long as I had enough watts I'd be good. Is there any way I can confirm the PSU is the culprit without buying a new one to test? What PSU would you recommend?
 
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hippotype said:
How would I confirm this is the issue? I'd prefer to avoid buying a new PSU just to test this out. If it is the PSU what should I get?
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You can't really confirm the issue without either a known, appropriate PSU or an oscilloscope/load tester that will cost far more than a new PSU. Unfortunately, that's one of the many issues of buying a worse PSU than one should; the first time there's an issue that could be the PSU, you need to be able to rule it out.

The list is starting to get a little old, but anything Tier A would do.

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...
forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com
 
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DSzymborski said:
You can't really confirm the issue without either a known, appropriate PSU or an oscilloscope/load tester that will cost far more than a new PSU. Unfortunately, that's one of the many issues of buying a worse PSU than one should; the first time there's an issue that could be the PSU, you need to be able to rule it out.

The list is starting to get a little old, but anything Tier A would do.

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...
forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com
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Do I want single or multi rail? Never heard of this before. Is 750W adequate?
 
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hippotype said:
Do I want single or multi rail? Never heard of this before. Is 750W adequate?
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Generally speaking, people suggest 850W for safety with a 3080. The spikes can be massive. Don't worry about the multi-rail thing; true multi-rail PSUs are kinda rare and not really necessary. This issue used to be a bigger deal back in the days where ATX spec had an amp limit.
 
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DSzymborski said:
Generally speaking, people suggest 850W for safety with a 3080. The spikes can be massive. Don't worry about the multi-rail thing; true multi-rail PSUs are kinda rare and not really necessary. This issue used to be a bigger deal back in the days where ATX spec had an amp limit.
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Do you reckon the EVGA Supernova 850 GT is a decent choice for what I have?
 
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