Question PC lagging all of sudden, is it the hard disk ?

[nikost]

I am not sure if thats the right category
Alright so like 10 days ago my windows7 pc was lagging a lot and it took like 2-3 minutes to open anything(it still does)
I upgraded to windows 10 but it got worse and on task manager it said hard disk usage 100% I tried solutions I found online but it didnt improve anything,plus it would take around 10 minutes to boot into windows
so I did a fresh install windows 7 and I still have this problem
My pc was fine 10 days ago I dont know what happened
Also a few days ago before this happened I installed a new ram,they both run on same speed 1600 so I dont think thats the problem
I have an apu a8 7600
here is a screenshot of hwinfo64

 

[Misgar]

If Windows 7 is installed on your hard disk and the system is very slow, there's a good chance the hard disk is developing bad sectors and could die soon.

Check the S.M.A.R.T. information on the hard disk for errors. I use Hard Disk Sentinel Pro. You could download a demo version. Other programs exist that can read the same data.

Alternatively, open a Command Line Prompt (DOS prompt) and type in CHKDSK C: to check the disk for errors. Without the /F and /R switches (when running with Admin priviledges) CHKDSK will only report errors.

If CHKDSK reports bad blocks, pending sectors, uncorrectable errors, etc., backup your data immediately to another drive, e.g. USB memory stick, external hard disk, then replace the Windows 7 hard disk.

Do not continue using the hard disk if bad block errors are reported. It's false economy.

 

[nikost]

If Windows 7 is installed on your hard disk and the system is very slow, there's a good chance the hard disk is developing bad sectors and could die soon.

Check the S.M.A.R.T. information on the hard disk for errors. I use Hard Disk Sentinel Pro. You could download a demo version. Other programs exist that can read the same data.

Alternatively, open a Command Line Prompt (DOS prompt) and type in CHKDSK C: to check the disk for errors. Without the /F and /R switches (when running with Admin priviledges) CHKDSK will only report errors.

If CHKDSK reports bad blocks, pending sectors, uncorrectable errors, etc., backup your data immediately to another drive, e.g. USB memory stick, external hard disk, then replace the Windows 7 hard disk.

Do not continue using the hard disk if bad block errors are reported. It's false economy.

Here is a screenshot of chkdsk

 

[SkyNetRising]

Here is a screenshot of chkdsk

Check drive health, use HDtune health.
Post screenshot.

Consider upgrading to SSD.

 

[thestryker]

When it's saying 100% disk usage in task manager what does it say is using the disk and what's the speed in MB/s that it is showing?

 

[Misgar]

The CHKDSK would seem to indicate your hard disk's health is OK, so the problem lies elsewhere.

As thestryker says, use Task Manager, then open Resource Manager, click on the Disk tab and find out what program is hammering the disk.

 

[SkyNetRising]

The CHKDSK would seem to indicate your hard disk's health is OK, so the problem lies elsewhere.

Chkdsk checks file system health.
It will not necessary detect any drive health issues.
So - chkdsk report saying ok, doesn't mean the disk is ok.

Appropriate tools have to be used.

 

[Misgar]

Agreed, CHKDSK provides a "quick and dirty" test of the file system health, nothing more, but it can indicate more thorough testing is required, especially if bad blocks are detected. Were that the case, I'd advise immediate backup of important files before scrapping the hard disk.

CHKDSK is just the first of a series of checks to ascertain why the OP's system is running at "100% disk usage". If we're lucky, it may turn out to be nothing to do with the drive's health and the OP will be able to continue using it if we can figure out what's going wrong.

Of course an SSD would be faster, but it would be nice to fix the current problem in the mean time.

 

[nikost]

Here is a picture of disk usage(task manager)

I have also installed ht tune pro and here are the results;

 

[Misgar]

I don't like the 201 reallocated sectors. This is a sign that your drive is about to die. It might last 6 months, it might die tomorrow.

Connect another drive to the computer and backup all your important data files. If you have another physical internal drive, backup to that if you have enough room.

Do you have another drive for a fresh installation of Windows 7? If not I suggest buying a SATA SSD, if your motherboard doesn't have an M.2 slot.

 

[thestryker]

You should sort the disk activity to see what's actually reading/writing. That being said the throughput is extremely low which leads me to believe those reallocated sectors have done a number. You should definitely replace the drive ASAP and as mentioned above look for a SATA SSD.

Something like this is going to be the best performance in a low cost SATA SSD: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1

 

[nikost]

my motherboard is A78M-E45 V2 (MS-7721) which ssd are compatible ?
also no I dont have another drive
thanks for your replies

 

[thestryker]

my motherboard is A78M-E45 V2 (MS-7721) which ssd are compatible ?
also no I dont have another drive
thanks for your replies

SATA drives only.

 

[Misgar]

Looking at your CHKDSK results, your C: drive is apprximately 460GB in size. Do you have any other partitions on this drive containing other logical drives, e.g. Drive D:?

If you need to keep anything on this disk drive, buy a USB memory stick or an external USB drive and copy the files across ASAP. The drive could die at any time

If the C: drive is the only drive, a 480GB or 500GB SATA drive would be a suitable inexpensive replacement.

I've just picked one at random from Amazon.com. Samsung drives are (for the most part) a reliable brand. You can buy much cheaper drives costing half a much, but I'd avoid anything outside well known brands such as Sandisk, Kingston, Lexar, Crucial and Samsung.

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-Inch...3&sprefix=samsung+970+sata+ssd,aps,191&sr=8-4

Do you have your original Windows 7 installation disk? This might be a DVD or a bootable USB memory stick. You'll also have to enter a 25-digit alpha numeric key when installing Windows 7 on a new drive.

This number is known as the Product Key and programs like Aida64 can dig this out of your existing drive if you've lost the piece of paper with the number on it.

The Product Key is not a License, but since you're repairing an existing system, your machine will still have an official Microsoft license.

A Windows 7 Product Key can also be used to install Windows 10, if you can find an installation disc or ISO file. The Windows 7 key will also work with Windows 11, but your hardware is too old for an unmodified installation of Windows 11.

https://www.zdnet.com/article/heres-how-you-can-still-get-a-free-windows-10-upgrade/

 

[Misgar]

If possible, can you post full details of your hard disk? A photo of the label or the manufacturer's part number would be useful.

Do you know what processor (CPU) is fitted on the motherboard.
How much system RAM?
Do you have an optical DVD drive?

 

[nikost]

SATA drives only.

Looking at your CHKDSK results, your C: drive is apprximately 460GB in size. Do you have any other partitions on this drive containing other logical drives, e.g. Drive D:?

If you need to keep anything on this disk drive, buy a USB memory stick or an external USB drive and copy the files across ASAP. The drive could die at any time

If the C: drive is the only drive, a 480GB or 500GB SATA drive would be a suitable inexpensive replacement.

I've just picked one at random from Amazon.com. Samsung drives are (for the most part) a reliable brand. You can buy much cheaper drives costing half a much, but I'd avoid anything outside well known brands such as Sandisk, Kingston, Lexar, Crucial and Samsung.

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-Inch-Internal-MZ-77E1T0B-AM/dp/B08QBJ2YMG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=8XOPMQDK9AG6&keywords=samsung+970+sata+ssd&qid=1688389773&sprefix=samsung+970+sata+ssd,aps,191&sr=8-4

Do you have your original Windows 7 installation disk? This might be a DVD or a bootable USB memory stick. You'll also have to enter a 25-digit alpha numeric key when installing Windows 7 on a new drive.

This number is known as the Product Key and programs like Aida64 can dig this out of your existing drive if you've lost the piece of paper with the number on it.

The Product Key is not a License, but since you're repairing an existing system, your machine will still have an official Microsoft license.

A Windows 7 Product Key can also be used to install Windows 10, if you can find an installation disc or ISO file. The Windows 7 key will also work with Windows 11, but your hardware is too old for an unmodified installation of Windows 11.

https://www.zdnet.com/article/heres-how-you-can-still-get-a-free-windows-10-upgrade/

yes I have backed up all my data to usb and some on google drive
so the samsung 870 evo is compatible? I wanted to get this one from amazon/local site
I have a serial key and I am aware it can be used on windows 10 or 11 too
I have insallation disc

If possible, can you post full details of your hard disk? A photo of the label or the manufacturer's part number would be useful.

Do you know what processor (CPU) is fitted on the motherboard.
How much system RAM?
Do you have an optical DVD drive?

where can I find full details of my hard disk?my disk is TOSHIBA DT01ACA050 ATA Device
I have an apu amd a8 7600
16gb ram in dual channel mode both 1600 mhz speed
and no I do not have an optical drive

 

[Misgar]

I looked on the Toshiba web site and lo and behold, there was a data sheet for the DT01ACA050. As I suspected it's described as a 500GB hard disk.

https://toshiba.semicon-storage.com...pecialty/cHDD-DT01ACAxxx-Product-Overview.pdf

If you don't have an optical drive, you won't be able to install Windows 7 from DVD if you have one (see below).

Now for a few questions:

Do you want to continue using Windows 7 when you get a new drive?
Do you have an OEM Windows 7 installation DVD?
Do you have a Windows 7 Recovery DVD, supplied with a pre-built PC?
Do you have a bootable Windows 7 installation USB memory stick?
Did someone else install Windows 7 on your computer?

Regardless of the answers to these questions, if you want to carry on using this computer, you should extract the Windows 7 Product Key as soon as possible, before the hard disk dies.

https://www.wikihow.com/Find-Your-Windows-7-Product-Key

As explained earlier, you need the Product Key to install Windows 7 , 8, 8.1 or 10 if you want to retain your Microsoft license. If you don't use the existing Product Key, your Microsoft license will lapse.

 

[nikost]

I looked on the Toshiba web site and lo and behold, there was a data sheet for the DT01ACA050. As I suspected it's described as a 500GB hard disk.

https://toshiba.semicon-storage.com...pecialty/cHDD-DT01ACAxxx-Product-Overview.pdf

If you don't have an optical drive, you won't be able to install Windows 7 from DVD if you have one (see below).

Now for a few questions:

Do you want to continue using Windows 7 when you get a new drive?
Do you have an OEM Windows 7 installation DVD?
Do you have a Windows 7 Recovery DVD, supplied with a pre-built PC?
Do you have a bootable Windows 7 installation USB memory stick?
Did someone else install Windows 7 on your computer?

Regardless of the answers to these questions, if you want to carry on using this computer, you should extract the Windows 7 Product Key as soon as possible, before the hard disk dies.

https://www.wikihow.com/Find-Your-Windows-7-Product-Key

As explained earlier, you need the Product Key to install Windows 7 , 8, 8.1 or 10 if you want to retain your Microsoft license. If you don't use the existing Product Key, your Microsoft license will lapse.

I want to use either windows 7 or 10
No I don't have a DVD
No
Yes I have an USB stick with windows 7
I installed it and I have my product key in my email
Won't I be able to install windows from USB if I get a new ssd?

 

[Misgar]

Good news!

With any luck, if the USB memory stick is an OEM installation disk as opposed to an Upgrade installation disk, you should be able to boot up the computer from USB and install Windows 7 on a new SSD.

To clarify:

OEM versions of Windows are intended for installation on a blank hard disk or SSD.

Upgrade versions of Windows check for an existing version of Windows on your computer and will not install if they find a blank drive.

You need an OEM installer, because your new drive (SSD) will be blank.

If you look on eBay, you'll find lots of people selling Windows 7 Upgrade DVDs and other people selling Windows 7 DVDs marked "For distribution only with a new computer" which means they're OEM.

Fingers crossed your USB memory stick is a bootable OEM disk and not an Upgrade disk.

You won't know until you replace the faulty hard disk unless you can recall what happened when you installed the OS several years ago.

 

[thestryker]

so the samsung 870 evo is compatible? I wanted to get this one from amazon/local site

It will work, but some batches of these had problems and so I don't tend to suggest people take a shot with them.

 

[nikost]

It will work, but some batches of these had problems and so I don't tend to suggest people take a shot with them.

How about Kingston A400?

 

[thestryker]

How about Kingston A400?

No I wouldn't go with that either, but that's for performance reasons rather than reliability. Where are you purchasing from? I already linked to the Crucial MX500 which would be my suggestion.

 

[SkyNetRising]

How about Kingston A400?

One of the worst SSD models available. Avoid.

When people on internet complain about problems and performance issues with their SSDs,
then most of times it's about Kingston A400.

 

[Misgar]

I had a 500GB Crucial BX100 SATA go bad in my mother's old laptop. Ditto a 120GB Kingston SATA in a desktop.

There's no such thing as a 100% life time guarantee with any drive. You pays your money and takes your chances.

The latest 990 series NVMe drives had problems.

Just buy any drive and keep your fingers crossed it lasts a couple of years.

 

[nikost]

No I wouldn't go with that either, but that's for performance reasons rather than reliability. Where are you purchasing from? I already linked to the Crucial MX500 which would be my suggestion.

Amazon or a local site skroutz.gr
Is it this one? https://www.skroutz.gr/s/13772146/Crucial-MX500-SSD-1TB-2-5-SATA-III-CT1000MX500SSD1.html