Pc overheats! It reaches 100 degrees, even with water cooling.

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

When I boot my pc it reaches 60 degrees instantly, and when I open a program like skype or Google Chrome, it reaches 100 degrees or more.
Task Manager says my CPU works at around 10% but still overheats.
I already cleaned the whole pc. Does anyone has any solutions?

 

[jinayhvora]

while cleaning did u remove the thermal paste on the CPU?
did u remove the heatsink? is there any chance it was not attached back properly?

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

I've got Alienware Command Center ( yes, its an Alienware ) and its says that the pump works. I checked the vents and they are all working. Could it be a virus or something.

Al these problems became to occur when I installed the game Smite. I already uninstalled it.

 

[mcnumpty23]

100 centigrade or 100f ?

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

100 degrees celcius or 212 F

 

[mcnumpty23]

what are you using to check the temps?

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

what are you using to check the temps?

Im using SpeedFan.

 

[mcnumpty23]

double check with realtemp or similar

if its still 100c and your pumps working i would say yourr blocks not mounted properly

is this a new problem?

ie were temps ok before?

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

double check with realtemp or similar

if its still 100c and your pumps working i would say yourr blocks not mounted properly

is this a new problem?

ie were temps ok before?

The temps were no problem at all. It never overheated or anything. It all started yesterday when I noticed my fans were going crazy and I had enormous lagg while playing games. I tried to reboot the system and it shut himself down after 30 minutes..

EDIT: I double checked with realtemp and it says my CPU is about 68 degrees, while SpeedFan says 71 degrees, so i guess its the same 😛

 

[mcnumpty23]

first thing i would check is the cpu block mounting if you are certain the pump is running

 

[shishodia]

How old is your desktop and Liquid cooler?

Edit : Lol on temprature 😀

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

Which model is the Alienware? I am assuming it is a desktop since it is liquid cooled. What is your CPU? Is it overclocked?

I doubt that a game could have caused this. It is possible that a virus could be opening several processes at once, but task manager would show the load to be much higher than 10%. Based on the info you have given us, I still believe that there is something physically wrong with your hardware. Even if your pump is working, there is a possibility that the system has developed air pockets. Just like in a car's cooling system, a PC's liquid cooler cannot have any bubbles or air pockets in it. The system needs to be purged or bled of any air. If the system is closed loop, it is impossible to do without destroying it. If there is a reservoir on the system, then it most likely can be purged.

How old is your desktop and Liquid cooler?

Edit : Lol on temprature 😀

My desktop is just 1 year and 12 days old.

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

Which model is the Alienware? I am assuming it is a desktop since it is liquid cooled. What is your CPU? Is it overclocked?

I doubt that a game could have caused this. It is possible that a virus could be opening several processes at once, but task manager would show the load to be much higher than 10%. Based on the info you have given us, I still believe that there is something physically wrong with your hardware. Even if your pump is working, there is a possibility that the system has developed air pockets. Just like in a car's cooling system, a PC's liquid cooler cannot have any bubbles or air pockets in it. The system needs to be purged or bled of any air. If the system is closed loop, it is impossible to do without destroying it. If there is a reservoir on the system, then it most likely can be purged.

Its an Alienware Aurora R4, my CPU is an i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz and is not overclocked. I tried many times to make contact with the Alienware costumer service, is send tickets and tried the online chat. I am not recieving any responses from the tickets i send. When I use the chat service they can not help me. The Dutch site even kicked me when I told him that they are not answering my tickets.

Which model is the Alienware? I am assuming it is a desktop since it is liquid cooled. What is your CPU? Is it overclocked?

I doubt that a game could have caused this. It is possible that a virus could be opening several processes at once, but task manager would show the load to be much higher than 10%. Based on the info you have given us, I still believe that there is something physically wrong with your hardware. Even if your pump is working, there is a possibility that the system has developed air pockets. Just like in a car's cooling system, a PC's liquid cooler cannot have any bubbles or air pockets in it. The system needs to be purged or bled of any air. If the system is closed loop, it is impossible to do without destroying it. If there is a reservoir on the system, then it most likely can be purged.

How old is your desktop and Liquid cooler?

Edit : Lol on temprature 😀

My desktop is just 1 year and 12 days old.

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

That model comes with a closed loop 120mm liquid cooler very similar to the Corsair H70. In fact, it looks almost exactly like the H70 with a piece of plastic on top of the block with a little alien head on it. Unfortunately, that cooler cannot be bled. Your only option is to start a warranty claim on the system. If the warranty is up, then the best thing to do is replace the liquid cooler with the same model, a better model with a longer warranty such as the 240mm Corsair H100i or an air cooler. You can get an air cooler such as the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo for under $30. It won't leak or develop air pockets and will perform nearly as well as the original Alienware 120mm cooler.

Thanks for the answers, but I dont think its the water cooling. When I touch the tube that went trough the cable, it is very hot and I cant hold the tube for 2 seconds. When the tube went trough the fan it is instantly cooled and goes back to the CPU. I really dont think its the water cooling.

 

[CommentariesAnd More]

That model comes with a closed loop 120mm liquid cooler very similar to the Corsair H70. In fact, it looks almost exactly like the H70 with a piece of plastic on top of the block with a little alien head on it. Unfortunately, that cooler cannot be bled. Your only option is to start a warranty claim on the system. If the warranty is up, then the best thing to do is replace the liquid cooler with the same model, a better model with a longer warranty such as the 240mm Corsair H100i or an air cooler. You can get an air cooler such as the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo for under $30. It won't leak or develop air pockets and will perform nearly as well as the original Alienware 120mm cooler.

Thanks for the answers, but I dont think its the water cooling. When I touch the tube that went trough the cable, it is very hot and I cant hold the tube for 2 seconds. When the tube went trough the fan it is instantly cooled and goes back to the CPU. I really dont think its the water cooling.

See I believe that there's no reason to blame the watercooler. Its either some virus overloading your CPU , or its possibly some issue with the PC ( motherboard , PSU are the main suspects IMO ) Also use CPU-Z. Oh and simplest way to know actual temps - BIOS. See this will help you know the issue. How ? Before you enter Windows , the virus can't do anything , nothing in the BIOS. So if the temps are similar in the BIOS , its a technical issue IMO. If not , get a anti-virus and do a full scan because its gotta be a virus. Also use CPU-Z to get a better idea of the CPU.

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

That model comes with a closed loop 120mm liquid cooler very similar to the Corsair H70. In fact, it looks almost exactly like the H70 with a piece of plastic on top of the block with a little alien head on it. Unfortunately, that cooler cannot be bled. Your only option is to start a warranty claim on the system. If the warranty is up, then the best thing to do is replace the liquid cooler with the same model, a better model with a longer warranty such as the 240mm Corsair H100i or an air cooler. You can get an air cooler such as the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo for under $30. It won't leak or develop air pockets and will perform nearly as well as the original Alienware 120mm cooler.

Thanks for the answers, but I dont think its the water cooling. When I touch the tube that went trough the cable, it is very hot and I cant hold the tube for 2 seconds. When the tube went trough the fan it is instantly cooled and goes back to the CPU. I really dont think its the water cooling.

See I believe that there's no reason to blame the watercooler. Its either some virus overloading your CPU , or its possibly some issue with the PC ( motherboard , PSU are the main suspects IMO ) Also use CPU-Z. Oh and simplest way to know actual temps - BIOS. See this will help you know the issue. How ? Before you enter Windows , the virus can't do anything , nothing in the BIOS. So if the temps are similar in the BIOS , its a technical issue IMO. If not , get a anti-virus and do a full scan because its gotta be a virus. Also use CPU-Z to get a better idea of the CPU.

Thanks man, I try it ASAP

EDIT: I tried to look up the temps in BIOS itself, but it is not there. Also, the moment I opened BIOS, the pc's fans immeditaly went to 100%, even right now, when im typing this, they are still going.


2cond EDit: Thanks! I did a bit of a research about my BIOS, and found out that it was outdated!

 

[amuffin]

It might just be speed fan.

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

Hey people! Thanks for all the support, but I think I might found the problem. I recently found out that my BIOS is outdated for more as 1 year! An out of date BIOS can cause heat issues by having an outdated temperature table for the system.
source: http://en.community.dell.com/owners-club/alienware/f/3746/t/19509803.aspx

EDIT: Updated to the latest BIOS, no effect

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

That model comes with a closed loop 120mm liquid cooler very similar to the Corsair H70. In fact, it looks almost exactly like the H70 with a piece of plastic on top of the block with a little alien head on it. Unfortunately, that cooler cannot be bled. Your only option is to start a warranty claim on the system. If the warranty is up, then the best thing to do is replace the liquid cooler with the same model, a better model with a longer warranty such as the 240mm Corsair H100i or an air cooler. You can get an air cooler such as the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo for under $30. It won't leak or develop air pockets and will perform nearly as well as the original Alienware 120mm cooler.

Thanks for the answers, but I dont think its the water cooling. When I touch the tube that went trough the cable, it is very hot and I cant hold the tube for 2 seconds. When the tube went trough the fan it is instantly cooled and goes back to the CPU. I really dont think its the water cooling.

Neither of the tubes should be so hot that you cannot touch them. They should be warm to the touch. This is another possible indication of air in the system. Air heats up much faster than liquid.

You have basically ruled out most of the other possibilities. At this point, it wouldn't hurt at all to at least try a generic LGA 2011 120mm air cooler just to rule out bubbles in the liquid cooler. At $20-$30 it is much cheaper than bringing it to a repair shop just for a diagnosis.

I found a clue. When I do a stresstest from Pc docter ( I got it free in AlienAutopsy ), it says that my core temperatures where 58 degrees when doing the stresstest! SpeedFan says it went up to 105 degrees! Whats the deal here?

 

[CommentariesAnd More]

That model comes with a closed loop 120mm liquid cooler very similar to the Corsair H70. In fact, it looks almost exactly like the H70 with a piece of plastic on top of the block with a little alien head on it. Unfortunately, that cooler cannot be bled. Your only option is to start a warranty claim on the system. If the warranty is up, then the best thing to do is replace the liquid cooler with the same model, a better model with a longer warranty such as the 240mm Corsair H100i or an air cooler. You can get an air cooler such as the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo for under $30. It won't leak or develop air pockets and will perform nearly as well as the original Alienware 120mm cooler.

Thanks for the answers, but I dont think its the water cooling. When I touch the tube that went trough the cable, it is very hot and I cant hold the tube for 2 seconds. When the tube went trough the fan it is instantly cooled and goes back to the CPU. I really dont think its the water cooling.

Neither of the tubes should be so hot that you cannot touch them. They should be warm to the touch. This is another possible indication of air in the system. Air heats up much faster than liquid.

You have basically ruled out most of the other possibilities. At this point, it wouldn't hurt at all to at least try a generic LGA 2011 120mm air cooler just to rule out bubbles in the liquid cooler. At $20-$30 it is much cheaper than bringing it to a repair shop just for a diagnosis.

I found a clue. When I do a stresstest from Pc docter ( I got it free in AlienAutopsy ), it says that my core temperatures where 58 degrees when doing the stresstest! SpeedFan says it went up to 105 degrees! Whats the deal here?

Your app seems to be poor ( SpeedFan ) if the Core temps according to SpeedFan were 105'C. Get a different app. Also note that your PC should have abruptly shut downed or should have hit a BSOD........
Also try 3DMark and know the temps.

 

[fnatic]

uninstall speedfan, download malwarebytes. Restart your computer run it in safemode. Open malwarebytes and run it. See if there is anything there. After restart your computer and run as normal. Do not reinstall speedfan just open or install CPU-z and real temp and see what happens.

 

[fnatic]

edited for double post spam. ;(

 

[Xander Stoffels]

uninstall speedfan, download malwarebytes. Restart your computer run it in safemode. Open malwarebytes and run it. See if there is anything there. After restart your computer and run as normal. Do not reinstall speedfan just open or install CPU-z and real temp and see what happens.

I will try it, thx!

 

[Xander Stoffels-1369974]

uninstall speedfan, download malwarebytes. Restart your computer run it in safemode. Open malwarebytes and run it. See if there is anything there. After restart your computer and run as normal. Do not reinstall speedfan just open or install CPU-z and real temp and see what happens.

I will try it, thx!

Edit: I tried it, it found nothing. Anyone else has some ideas?

 

[ElMoIsEviL]

Install this (and for the love of God decline all the add-on garbage software it will try to install): http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/