PC partially off during gaming, not overheating

[tepsa]

Hi!

I have installed a new GPU in my old-ish computer and a new 600W PSU.
The problem starts with gaming. And it's not even heavy gaming! It crashes, sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes after 20 minutes into Fortnite. That's the only "heavy" thing installed on this PC right now, so that's all we've used. Fortnite is not lagging prior to crashing. It runs smoothly on default (i.e. not minimum) settings.

The screen goes black, the game (i.e. sounds coming from the PC) are off, BUT lights on my case are on as well as all the fans (4 in total). The only thing I can do is turn the computer off and on with on/off button.

I have done:
- Checked temperatures. They are fine. GPU reaches 50-52 C, and CPU reaches 57-66 C before shutting down.
- BIOS is up-to-date
- re-set BIOS to default
- installed the latest GPU driver
- turned off cool n quiet in BIOS
- turned up the target temperature of CPU in BIOS (from 70 to 90 C)
- CPU fan is set to work to 100% in BIOS
(done all these things in BIOS before I determined it's NOT an overheating issue)
- Conducted the FurMark test. Now, a couple of times it brought down my PC after a couple of minutes, and a few times ran for 15 minutes without anything happening!
- ran the BurIn Test - for CPU, RAM, Video, 2D graphics and 3D graphics, all set to 90 - it passed without errors

Specs:
MB: MSI A55M-E33
CPU: AMD A10-6790K
GPU: Sapphire Pulse RX 560 4GB (this one, it needs a power supply SAPPHIRE PULSE Radeon RX 560 4GB ? The Heart. The Beat. The Game. )
RAM: 8 GB
PSU: Falcon FLC-600L 600W (I doubt it means anything to you. I could put up a pic of whatever they have written on the side of it, if needed)
Running on Windows 10 64-bit

 

[R_1]

on the label what is the total wattage on the 12V rail? multiply the voltage by the amperage.

 

[tepsa]

Uhm... it says " max combined 12V - 288w". There are also two "+12V1" sections with "10A" written bellow them.
Not sure what I'm suppose to multiply here.

 

[tepsa]

 

[R_1]

so the unit has 288 Watts of power available. running with the GPU I think the PSU is overheating or otherwise failing as you are nearing the limits of the power supply.
can you borrow another PSU for testing, swap with a friend for a day? anything?

 

[tepsa]

First, thank you for your efforts.

Regarding swapping the parts - The most realistic answer is "no". I realize it might come to that stage, with changing parts being the only option, but I was hoping some other ideas might exist. If it comes to that, I'll probably have to take it to some service.

But here's my question now - This PC was running on some crappy, no-name PSU before I put in the new GPU. The only reason I bought the new PSU is because the old one didn't have a 6pin connection. And the old one was 500W, this one is 600W.
- Is it really possible that this, if we are being honest, cheap GPU consumes that much power? (Specs on their page state 90W, but that doesn't mean anything to me in relation to my PSU)
- Looking at PSUs available to buy here, none of them state any other power related numbers in specs. Just W. So what number should I look for on the box, since 288W is too small? What's my target here?

 

[sizzling]

Your new psu is terrible. A max of 288w across the 2x12v rails is what you would expect from a 300w psu. The 12v rail is the most important. Although it has a 600w sticker it is not a 600w psu, it’s highly likely component quality is also terrible.

How about Corsair CX650 or 550?

 

[R_1]

your CPU can use 100W, the GPU 90W, add 50 Watts for the rest of the system and you are nearing the top end of what the PSU can provide (288W).

when looking at a power supply you will need to look at the label, or the specs. the vast majority of the power should be on the 12V rail. on your 600 less than half the power is available on 12V which is the main power rail. 5V and 3.3 are needed but they only need 15-20 amps each max.
a few labels so you know what to look for.
https://img01-olxua.akamaized.net/img-olxua/682198356_7_644x461_seasonic-520w-m12ii-evo-80-plus-bronze-ss-520gm-f3-_rev002.jpg
here you can see this 520W unit has 480W available on the 12V rail
https://www.pcper.com/files/imagecache/article_max_width/review/2016-11-28/3-550G3-side.jpg
this 550W unit has 549 W on the 12 V rail.

you want most of the power on the 12v rail. some can have 2 x 12V rails in which case add them both together

 

[tepsa]

Ok. I'll try to deal with PSU somehow.
Basically, you are saying it's not faulty, just weak?

In the meantime I have an addition.
During one round of playing that same game, PC didn't restart but the blue screen appeared with THREAD STUCK IN DEVICE DRIVER error.
This happened once before (I've just learned) but since the first time Win got updated and GPU driver as well. So two times it happened with different driver and Win.
Also, every time I select "Auto" settings in the game, for video quality, it automatically shuts the system down.
I dunno if that changes opinions.

 

[tepsa]

OK, so looking into this error I got - according to what I've read, that error can also be associated with PSU. So I am definitely doing that.
- So just one last question before I proceed - Is it better to get one which only has one "12V" with 38V, or the one which has two "12V" with 24V and 21A assigned to it?
(Those are my options. Above mentioned Corsair's cost here is 1/2 of average monthly pay in Serbia. I believe it's good, but no one here rolls like that. It's just not possible)

 

[R_1]

OK, so looking into this error I got - according to what I've read, that error can also be associated with PSU. So I am definitely doing that.
- So just one last question before I proceed - Is it better to get one which only has one "12V" with 38V, or the one which has two "12V" with 24V and 21A assigned to it?
(Those are my options. Above mentioned Corsair's cost here is 1/2 of average monthly pay in Serbia. I believe it's good, but no one here rolls like that. It's just not possible)

either will work. dual rail systems are based on older models. the important factor is to make sure you have enough wattage. your system is near 250W so at least 400W on 12V, this will allow the PSU to run cooler and more efficiently

 

[tepsa]

It's not the PSU issue!!!!
I have replaced it and the problem is still here. New PSU is 600W with 2x 12V with 20A.
Any other thoughts?