Question PC randomly locking up ?

[jordyszita]

For the past three weeks my PC has been randomly locking up. At first I thought It was my new game I was playing, then I thought it was MSI software or Logitech / Razer software which I removed but it's not the case. Just not sure how to fixs this. It's very random it does. I have good days and bad days. I am at a point thinking reinstalling Windows since it's been 5 ish years.

In Event viewer I get:
" ID: 10016: The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Launch permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
Windows.SecurityCenter.WscDataProtection "

PC specs:

CPU: Intel: i7-6700K
GPU Nvidia: 3070TI
PSU: Seasonic 1200W GOLD
MB: MSI Gaming M7 Z170A
RAM: 32GB of G-skills (4 sticks in total)
M.2 512GB which my main OS
three 512GB SSD and one 2TB seagate HDD
Two 140MM font fans, one rear 140mm.
Dual liquid cooling 140mm fans.
Windows 10 Home

Windows is fully up to date. Software, games, GPU, and firmware all up to date.

 

[Darkbreeze]

First off, what is the exact model of your "1200w Seasonic Gold" power supply AND how long has that unit been in service?

IF it has been five years since you've done a clean install of Windows and IF you've upgraded through all of the major spring and fall updates during that time, then it should be a no brainer that doing a clean install using the latest build version of Windows would be a very good idea.

How to associate your windows 10 license with a Microsoft account

Reactivating Windows 10 after a hardware change

Windows build 1607 (Or newer) and activation after a hardware change



and in case you should ever need to do a CLEAN install of Windows, this guide will help to ensure it gets done properly.

How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way​

 

[jordyszita]

First off, what is the exact model of your "1200w Seasonic Gold" power supply AND how long has that unit been in service?

IF it has been five years since you've done a clean install of Windows and IF you've upgraded through all of the major spring and fall updates during that time, then it should be a no brainer that doing a clean install using the latest build version of Windows would be a very good idea.

How to associate your windows 10 license with a Microsoft account

Reactivating Windows 10 after a hardware change

Windows build 1607 (Or newer) and activation after a hardware change



and in case you should ever need to do a CLEAN install of Windows, this guide will help to ensure it gets done properly.

How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way​

This whole system I built was in 2015 and the only thing that is new, is the GPU. The PSU never been in service...... Clean install be the best way eh? UGH that sucks lol. No way to fix the 10016 no problem eh?

 

[Darkbreeze]

What do you mean "The PSU has never been in service"?

If it has been installed and used, then it has been in service. "In service" means "How long has this power supply been in USE in your systems, whether only this one or in multiple systems if you moved it to this build from a previous built".

So based on your information that PSU has been in service for 8 years. 8 years for any power supply is a pretty good run, but it would still be very helpful to know what model that is. There are a few different Seasonic 1200w Gold power supplies over the years and 8 years ago there really weren't many of them that had more than a five year warranty which means the one you have is quite possibly about three years past the date at which the manufacturer felt it was no longer going to be trustworthy. That means, if true, I also feel like it's no longer trustworthy even if it isn't the problem.

On the other hand, it's possible yours could have had a 7 or 10 year warranty but in 2015 it was absolutely highly uncommon for even some of the best models out there to have that kind of expected longevity. So that is one thing that needs to be considered, but we can better verify that by running HWinfo at both idle and while under a load, and taking screenshots of the system 12v, 5v and 3v sensor values. Download and install HWinfo, choose the sensors only option and be sure "Summary" is not selected. Scroll down until you find those values and take screenshots at both idle and while under a gaming or other high load. Post those images here.

You can also manually test the PSU if you have access to a volt meter.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw


I would recommend doing BOTH those things.


As far as the OS goes, if you've done all the major updates, spring and fall, as well as all the incremental updates, for that entire five years and haven't done any clean installs during that time AND in light of the fact that you are now having what might very well be an OS related problem, my advice would be that is actually the very first place that I'd start, even before the PSU.

 

[jordyszita]

What do you mean "The PSU has never been in service"?

If it has been installed and used, then it has been in service. "In service" means "How long has this power supply been in USE in your systems, whether only this one or in multiple systems if you moved it to this build from a previous built".

So based on your information that PSU has been in service for 8 years. 8 years for any power supply is a pretty good run, but it would still be very helpful to know what model that is. There are a few different Seasonic 1200w Gold power supplies over the years and 8 years ago there really weren't many of them that had more than a five year warranty which means the one you have is quite possibly about three years past the date at which the manufacturer felt it was no longer going to be trustworthy. That means, if true, I also feel like it's no longer trustworthy even if it isn't the problem.

On the other hand, it's possible yours could have had a 7 or 10 year warranty but in 2015 it was absolutely highly uncommon for even some of the best models out there to have that kind of expected longevity. So that is one thing that needs to be considered, but we can better verify that by running HWinfo at both idle and while under a load, and taking screenshots of the system 12v, 5v and 3v sensor values. Download and install HWinfo, choose the sensors only option and be sure "Summary" is not selected. Scroll down until you find those values and take screenshots at both idle and while under a gaming or other high load. Post those images here.

You can also manually test the PSU if you have access to a volt meter.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw


I would recommend doing BOTH those things.


As far as the OS goes, if you've done all the major updates, spring and fall, as well as all the incremental updates, for that entire five years and haven't done any clean installs during that time AND in light of the fact that you are now having what might very well be an OS related problem, my advice would be that is actually the very first place that I'd start, even before the PSU.

Bought a PSU tester, and it's all good. I even reinstalled the OS, and this time, I am getting random system restarts. Not lock ups any more, just restarts while I was leaving my system over night to install my games. here is the EVENT idea this time.

The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID

from address LocalHost (Using LRPC) running in the application container Unavailable SID (Unavailable). This security permission can be modified using the Component Services administrative tool.

SOURCE: DistributedCOM
EVENT ID: 10016

So still getting that issuse. Which now I am at a real lost.

 

[Darkbreeze]

What "PSU tester" did you buy? And you are aware that those are only good for very basic troubleshooting to ensure the PSU actually has output right? They don't test them under "load" conditions, which is why I linked you to a proper manual test using a fan for creating a load. Still not saying the PSU is the problem, but still not saying it isn't either.

If we are being 100% honest, given the age of your platform the MOST likely culprit here would be the motherboard. Any motherboard that sees frequent and regular use, and is more than five years old, is a good candidate for problems or failures. Since yours is likely around 8 years old, it's definitely not only IN that group but in the "highly probable" category. And unfortunately about the only way to diagnose THAT unless there is visible evidence of a burned area, bulging or leaking cap or physical damage of some kind on the board itself is to eliminate everything else.

Hence, bench testing.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[jordyszita]

What "PSU tester" did you buy? And you are aware that those are only good for very basic troubleshooting to ensure the PSU actually has output right? They don't test them under "load" conditions, which is why I linked you to a proper manual test using a fan for creating a load. Still not saying the PSU is the problem, but still not saying it isn't either.

If we are being 100% honest, given the age of your platform the MOST likely culprit here would be the motherboard. Any motherboard that sees frequent and regular use, and is more than five years old, is a good candidate for problems or failures. Since yours is likely around 8 years old, it's definitely not only IN that group but in the "highly probable" category. And unfortunately about the only way to diagnose THAT unless there is visible evidence of a burned area, bulging or leaking cap or physical damage of some kind on the board itself is to eliminate everything else.

Hence, bench testing.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

Did the test on the MB and PSU still total lock up on.I followed best I can for the MB and PSU. I have the Thermal take Dr.power 2 I used. MB seems total fine.So again, I reinstalled the OS and everything inlcuding firmware is fully up to date. I also replaced PCI-E for my GPU in case. Still nothing. I also replace MB battery too.... I was thinking running a stress test by using Furmark and memtest86 to see what happens.

The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Launch permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
Windows.SecurityCenter.SecurityAppBroker
and APPID
Unavailable
to the user NT AUTHORITY\SYSTEM SID (S-1-5-18) from address LocalHost (Using LRPC) running in the application container Unavailable SID (Unavailable). This security permission can be modified using the Component Services administrative tool

Event ID 10016