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Question PC Randomly Shutdown/Restarts After ~2 Hours of Use

Nov 6, 2016
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4,520
First I'll just post a bunch of information I think might be helpful.

CPU: 38°C / 100°F
Motherboard: 27°C / 80°F
PCH: 41°C / 105°F
View: https://i.imgur.com/sKH3EEU.jpg

CPU Core/Cache: 1.248V
DRAM: 1.200V
CPU VCCIO: 1.032V
CPU System Agent: 1.088V
PCH Core: 1.000V
CPU Standby: 1.009V
View: https://i.imgur.com/n5v3szd.jpg

+12V: 12.096V
+5V: 5.040V
+3.3V: 3.312V
View: https://i.imgur.com/tB85oyF.jpg

And since I just replaced my old graphics card (EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB GDDR5 Superclocked — https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Cooling-Graphics-04G-P4-2982-KR/dp/B00NI5DA2E), I thought I'd also post the plugs/connections just in case they're somehow wrong (though the new graphics card, the RTX 2070 Super, definitely worked fine while the computer ran).

I also upgraded my power supply because it wasn't the greatest (APEX SL-8600 EPS 600W ATX12V — https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817154023), if that matters.

So I was playing my game, War Thunder, with improved frames per second (due to the new graphics card upgrade, so it definitely is working) for about two hours, then my computer just randomly shuts down. So I then start it up again and go back to playing my game with zero issues for another two hours, but then it restarts the entire computer randomly. I have no idea what the problem would be, because the power supply seems fine (and is brand new, bought it today), and so do the temperatures. I did have a minor problem with my operating system, but it seemed to fix itself when I ran the "CHKDSK" command upon one of my computer restarts. So how do I prevent it from randomly shutting down/restarting? This has happened twice so far.
 
The Corsair CX PSU isn't the greatest for any significant load like heavy gaming and especially overclocking (mentioning since this is in the PSU section). However, I very much doubt this is a PSU issue. The temps seem totally off from what I would expect during gaming. It seems like there could be a problem with the BIOS. What version of BIOS are you running? Also with the described issues and having to run chkdsk makes me think there could be a problem with the HDD or OS install (likely this wouldn't be affected by gaming since gaming is typically low stress on the hard drive). 38c is what I would expect at idle with the system not after heavy load.

Unfortunately you will want to upgrade to Windows 10 or migrate to Linux (yes I know I just made the switch a few weeks ago from Windows 7). Security updates will stop and anything connected to the internet will become at risk. Maybe a new OS install and BIOS update will cure the problems (if the BIOS is older than its newest).

Another question. Does the computer feel warm after gaming?
 
The Corsair CX PSU isn't the greatest for any significant load like heavy gaming and especially overclocking (mentioning since this is in the PSU section). However, I very much doubt this is a PSU issue. The temps seem totally off from what I would expect during gaming.
The temperatures were almost immediately after my computer restarted. I should also note I don't think anything is overclocked at all, if that matters. I just installed Zotac Firestorm to figure out my GPU's temperature and voltage too, in case that helps. This was after ~45 minutes to an hour of gameplay.
Voltage: 643mv to 637mv
Temperature: ~50°C to ~64°C
View: https://i.imgur.com/8lt0Qam.png

Note: I was tabbing in and out of the game to monitor it, which is probably why it fluctuated so much.

I'd also like to note that my computer restarted a third time too, during the GPU test.

It seems like there could be a problem with the BIOS. What version of BIOS are you running?
The BIOS information:
BIOS Version/Date: American Megatrends Inc. 1902, 6/24/2016
SMBIOS Version: 3.0
View: https://i.imgur.com/Q60DpK3.png

[...] BIOS update will cure the problems (if the BIOS is older than its newest).
I'm going to go update my BIOS to version 3802 (April 27, 2018) via USB, which seems to be the most recent version. Maybe it'll help.

Also with the described issues and having to run chkdsk makes me think there could be a problem with the HDD or OS install (likely this wouldn't be affected by gaming since gaming is typically low stress on the hard drive).
I only had to run CHKDSK because I was very stupid and decided to press and hold the power button to shut off my computer when it wanted to CHKDSK on startup because I was in the middle of installing and troubleshooting my new graphics card (found out my old power supply definitely was not sufficient, so had to go buy a new one which is the one I have now). It shut down literally one second before it was supposed to run the CHKDSK, so I thought that'd be okay. I guess I was wrong, so I had to run CHKDSK myself once I had my GPU setup. Everything seemed to fix itself afterwards though, zero problems other than the restarts. Although I noticed how when I play less intensive games, like Grand Theft Auto San Andreas (the multiplayer modification for it, a much older game than the game I am experiencing issues with), it doesn't seem to ever shut down at all, or it just takes SIGNIFICANTLY longer to do so (though it never did for me).

Unfortunately you will want to upgrade to Windows 10 or migrate to Linux (yes I know I just made the switch a few weeks ago from Windows 7). Security updates will stop and anything connected to the internet will become at risk.
Yeah I know, I'm holding off on it for as long as I possibly can because I just prefer Windows 7. I do have a laptop with Windows 10 and Windows 7 just seems so much better.

Maybe a new OS install
Yeah I'm trying to save that for the very very last option, because I really don' t think it could be that considering how I've never had issues with my GTX 980 before installing my RTX 2070 Super.

Another question. Does the computer feel warm after gaming?
• Graphics card feels warm
• One of the fans blows quite warm air (I think it's connected to my processor)
• Power supply doesn't seem warm at all
 
I completely agree. I hate Windows 10 too. I've been dual-booting Windows 7 and some variant of Linux since the beginning of time (at least since 7 came out). There are a few things you can do to make Windows 10 look and feel more like Windows 7 including killing some of the privacy snatching nonsense Microshaft? Microsoft does.

I feel the CPU temps are incorrect. If the BIOS fixes things which I sort of expect you should be good to go. This sounds like in the end a Windows reinstall and BIOS update would help.
 
I completely agree. I hate Windows 10 too. I've been dual-booting Windows 7 and some variant of Linux since the beginning of time (at least since 7 came out). There are a few things you can do to make Windows 10 look and feel more like Windows 7 including killing some of the privacy snatching nonsense Microshaft? Microsoft does.
Yeah, I really dislike the Windows 10 GUI, but at least it's not nearly as bad as Windows 8's.


I feel the CPU temps are incorrect. If the BIOS fixes things which I sort of expect you should be good to go. This sounds like in the end a Windows reinstall and BIOS update would help.
Alright I fixed it. CPU temperatures might be wrong, but I really don't think they are (I didn't play for that long, only around 45-60 minutes). I updated my BIOS to the most recent version and continued to have the restarts. I did not reinstall Windows or even touch the operating system files at all (since I originally ran CHKDSK, in the very very beginning because I had to — seemingly not at all related to the restarts). All that needed to be done was for me to uninstall my RTX 2070's drivers and reinstall them. No idea how it messed up in the first place, but it was just a GPU driver issue in the end. This was a lot of time wasted for such a small issue.

The Corsair CX PSU isn't the greatest for any significant load like heavy gaming and especially overclocking (mentioning since this is in the PSU section).
Why is my PSU not that great? It has 100 more watts than the minimum requirement (which is bloated as is) for my GPU to operate. It's also bronze certified. Do the certifications (above bronze) really matter that much?
 
Glad you solved the issue! If it works it works.

Wattage and efficiency cert doesn't mean that much. The first requirement is to meet the wattage which is super easy to do these days with how little power systems draw even compared to those from a few years ago. Efficiency is just that and has nothing to do with the performance/quality of the unit itself. Quality is a much greater factor and while the CX (grey label not green) is okay quality it's nothing spectacular for a performance system. The CX, in particular, is quite overrated for some reason. I suspect because its the cheapest one from a primary brand on the market. For 20 dollars more than the CX, the Corsair RMx is significantly better being on par or at the very least extremely close to it with the EVGA G3. Better across the board. Voltage regulation, ripple, hold-up time, and capacitor type provide better insight than wattage/efficiency.

The only difference between the CX and CXM is that the M is a semi-modular version.

Here are two reviews worth reading, if you are lazy go to the last page and read the recap:
Old one: https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/03/02/corsair-cx750m-750w-power-supply/
New one: https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2016/09/12/corsair-cx750m-v2-power-supply/

Another step up from the CX but probably not as good as the RMx: https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/08/07/corsair-tx750m-2017-750w-power-supply

and lastly my favorite: https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2016/12/26/evga-supernova-750-g3-power-supply/ or https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2014/07/28/evga-supernova-1200-p2-power-supply/6/