Question Pc Randomly shuts down after cpu upgrade

[Linzen]

So I upgraded some parts of my pc including psu (twice) cpu and gpu
After specifically the cpu problem my pc shuts down and sometimes boots back up other times stays shut down. I thought it was either a thermal issue so i bought a higher Watt and higher rating PSU and a stronger Heatsink and both are working phenomenal, and it turned off once last night. I stressed tested the pc after every upgrade even running to stress test simultaneously with no crashes, only crashes when im gaming
and clues heres a list of parts that i had to now
R5 2600
B450 Aourus M
32Gb DDR4
GTX 1070
550W 80+ bronze
then i upgraded to
R9 5900X
B450 (yes bios upgraded)
32gb of DDR4 @ 3200mhz
Radeon RX 6800XT
700W 80+ white
and i upgraded my psu once more for
850W 80+ Gold

any idea on the issue

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, nobody is trying to say you did something wrong. That motherboard, while low end, was "ok-ish" for the CPU you had before. But there is a HUGE difference between an R5 2600 and an R9 5900x.

And, by "Reinstalled Windows" do you mean you did this exact procedure:

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Linzen]

ima answer the windows question first
i fully deleted all my Drives and re

Yeah, nobody is trying to say you did something wrong. That motherboard, while low end, was "ok-ish" for the CPU you had before. But there is a HUGE difference between an R5 2600 and an R9 5900x.

And, by "Reinstalled Windows" do you mean you did this exact procedure:

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

i know i honestly just didnt wanna drop another hundeo on a new motherboard

i used a boot device to erase my old hard drive and reinstalled windows

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, before going through all that I would recommend that you pull the CPU cooler and check the CPU to make sure there are no bent pins at all. Even a slightly bent pin can cause problems. Also, if the CPU cooler is not evenly tightened all the way around, and that can include problems from a loose heatsink that isn't equally tight on both or all four sides, depending on how it fastens, or the same uneven fastener issue with bracket to backplate fasteners. This can allow the CPU to "cock" in the socket and make it act similar to a CPU with a bent pin or memory problems.

If that is all good and no concerns there then it almost has to be a motherboard issue but I'd bench test it to eliminate other possibilities including installation, standoff, wiring or case related issues.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Linzen]

So, before going through all that I would recommend that you pull the CPU cooler and check the CPU to make sure there are no bent pins at all. Even a slightly bent pin can cause problems. Also, if the CPU cooler is not evenly tightened all the way around, and that can include problems from a loose heatsink that isn't equally tight on both or all four sides, depending on how it fastens, or the same uneven fastener issue with bracket to backplate fasteners. This can allow the CPU to "cock" in the socket and make it act similar to a CPU with a bent pin or memory problems.

If that is all good and no concerns there then it almost has to be a motherboard issue but I'd bench test it to eliminate other possibilities including installation, standoff, wiring or case related issues.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

this happened before i got the hyper212
i had a 240mm aio and it still did it

 

[Darkbreeze]

Why would you switch from a 240mm AIO to a Hyper 212?

 

[Linzen]

Why would you switch from a 240mm AIO to a Hyper 212?

i assumed it was a thermal issue so i got a completely different cooler

 

[COLGeek]

i assumed it was a thermal issue so i got a completely different cooler

You went backward.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I see. What was the model of that AIO and how old is it? Might be worth putting it back in as, unless it is a really crappy model, it's almost certainly a better performer than the 212, which frankly is about the bottom of the barrel that I'd recommend when it comes to aftermarket air
coolers.

 

[COLGeek]

I see. What was the model of that AIO and how old is it? Might be worth putting it back in as, unless it is a really crappy model, it's almost certainly a better performer than the 212, which frankly is about the bottom of the barrel that I'd recommend when it comes to aftermarket air
coolers.

The Hyper 212, as stated earlier, is really not suitable for a 5900X. This really does smack of VRM overload at this point. Running hwmonitor while under load might shed some light on component temps.

Ryzen Master could do as well.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, I agree. That cooler is in no way capable enough for that CPU.

 

[Aeacus]

I passed your issue to an internal group of seasoned members to see if anyone has an idea regarding your situation. Perhaps one, or more, of the brainiacs will arrive shortly with some thoughts.

Saw the call and here's another thought:

--

Now, the underlying issue is that PC is either shutting down or rebooting.

For most of the times, this is PSU issue. I see that 2nd PSU has been tested to rule out PSU issue (IF new PSU is sound, that is).

Another reason for shut downs/reboots can be thermals. Namely thermal throttle and PC shutting itself down to save it from burning up. While there are talks of CPU cooler downgrade, nothing jumps out as obvious cause.

If the issue isn't by PSU or thermals, then i'd look towards main electricity grid.

It doesn't take much to shut down the PC, blackout lasting more than 30ms will do the trick. And same goes to brownouts. Here, fix would be UPS. Preferably line-interactive, true/pure since wave UPS. Since that UPS is compatible with Active PFC PSUs and also has AVR in it, to filter out all nasties coming from main grid (blackout, brownout, surge etc).

Before looking towards UPS, you could try:

• Different power socket in your home (preferably in another room). Do not use any power strips/extension cords. Instead plug your PC directly to a wall.
• Different location (friend's house, relative house).

If given that location change fixes your issue, i'd go with UPS, since that would tell that there is some electricity grid issues in your home.

 

[Linzen]

Why would you switch from a 240mm AIO to a Hyper 212?

i

Saw the call and here's another thought:

--

Now, the underlying issue is that PC is either shutting down or rebooting.

For most of the times, this is PSU issue. I see that 2nd PSU has been tested to rule out PSU issue (IF new PSU is sound, that is).

Another reason for shut downs/reboots can be thermals. Namely thermal throttle and PC shutting itself down to save it from burning up. While there are talks of CPU cooler downgrade, nothing jumps out as obvious cause.

If the issue isn't by PSU or thermals, then i'd look towards main electricity grid.

It doesn't take much to shut down the PC, blackout lasting more than 30ms will do the trick. And same goes to brownouts. Here, fix would be UPS. Preferably line-interactive, true/pure since wave UPS. Since that UPS is compatible with Active PFC PSUs and also has AVR in it, to filter out all nasties coming from main grid (blackout, brownout, surge etc).

Before looking towards UPS, you could try:

• Different power socket in your home (preferably in another room). Do not use any power strips/extension cords. Instead plug your PC directly to a wall.
• Different location (friend's house, relative house).

If given that location change fixes your issue, i'd go with UPS, since that would tell that there is some electricity grid issues in your home.

it wouldn’t be an electrical problem because it started happening after i installed the motherboard

but i got progress it isnt just shutting down it blue screen twice which is a major upgrade

 

[Linzen]

Yeah, I agree. That cooler is in no way capable enough for that CPU.

im using it in a push pull system
and reddit said it was more than enough

 

[Linzen]

I see. What was the model of that AIO and how old is it? Might be worth putting it back in as, unless it is a really crappy model, it's almost certainly a better performer than the 212, which frankly is about the bottom of the barrel that I'd recommend when it comes to aftermarket air
coolers.

it was a lurker v240

im getting decent temps now admittedly but i didn’t have a fan in the old one

 

[Darkbreeze]

Reddit said? Well, must be true then right. Two technicians with more than 70 years experience between them must not know what they are talking about since "Reddit said". LOL.

Seriously though, push pull means literally nothing. Even on the best single stack heatsinks like the Noctua U12S, U14S, Thermalright Assassin X120, Deepcool Gammax 400 v2, various Scythe models, and so on, adding a second fan for pull never gains more than a couple of degrees difference, if that. So instead of running at 85°C, for example, you might, MAYBE, drop down to like 82/83°C, which is fine since it's an improvement but don't expect some phenomenal change in performance. Only on the VERY THICK single stack or double stack coolers does adding a second fan make a more significant difference. The Macho cooler for example, is very thick and fans can struggle to efficiently push through that much static resistance so a second fan on the back of one of these very thick single stack coolers (Which the 212 is definitely not) can help with that, but even then if you have a very good high static pressure fan on the front then adding a rear fan probably still won't gain you more than a couple degrees difference.

I'm going to assume you are in the middle east or Asia somewhere since Ventroo (Lurker V240) is not a familiar brand in most markets I am familiar with such as US, Canada, UK, Aus, etc. I really can't say which you'd be better off with but if that 240mm AIO has any quality and performance at all that is similar to other 240mm AIO units, then I'd be inclined to go back to it as it will undoubtedly be better than the 212 EVO. And in case you think I am unfamiliar with the 212 coolers, it just happens that I have written a guide about it many years ago and am VERY familiar with it.

How To - Solving temperature issues with the Hyper 212 EVO

Solving temperature issues with the Hyper 212 EVO There are already a ton of tutorials on how to install the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO on various motherboard sockets along with the corresponding backplates, so I won't bother creating another repetitive tutorial on that. (Personally, I...

forums.tomshardware.com

Again, since the problem started AFTER you installed the motherboard, it would be a VERY good idea to remove it from the case and test it on the bench using the steps outlined in the bench testing tutorial that I linked you to a few posts back.

 

[Linzen]

Reddit said? Well, must be true then right. Two technicians with more than 70 years experience between them must not know what they are talking about since "Reddit said". LOL.

Seriously though, push pull means literally nothing. Even on the best single stack heatsinks like the Noctua U12S, U14S, Thermalright Assassin X120, Deepcool Gammax 400 v2, various Scythe models, and so on, adding a second fan for pull never gains more than a couple of degrees difference, if that. So instead of running at 85°C, for example, you might, MAYBE, drop down to like 82/83°C, which is fine since it's an improvement but don't expect some phenomenal change in performance. Only on the VERY THICK single stack or double stack coolers does adding a second fan make a more significant difference. The Macho cooler for example, is very thick and fans can struggle to efficiently push through that much static resistance so a second fan on the back of one of these very thick single stack coolers (Which the 212 is definitely not) can help with that, but even then if you have a very good high static pressure fan on the front then adding a rear fan probably still won't gain you more than a couple degrees difference.

I'm going to assume you are in the middle east or Asia somewhere since Ventroo (Lurker V240) is not a familiar brand in most markets I am familiar with such as US, Canada, UK, Aus, etc. I really can't say which you'd be better off with but if that 240mm AIO has any quality and performance at all that is similar to other 240mm AIO units, then I'd be inclined to go back to it as it will undoubtedly be better than the 212 EVO. And in case you think I am unfamiliar with the 212 coolers, it just happens that I have written a guide about it many years ago and am VERY familiar with it.

How To - Solving temperature issues with the Hyper 212 EVO

Solving temperature issues with the Hyper 212 EVO There are already a ton of tutorials on how to install the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO on various motherboard sockets along with the corresponding backplates, so I won't bother creating another repetitive tutorial on that. (Personally, I...

forums.tomshardware.com

Again, since the problem started AFTER you installed the motherboard, it would be a VERY good idea to remove it from the case and test it on the bench using the steps outlined in the bench testing tutorial that I linked you to a few posts back.

the problem started after i installed the cpu
im in US i saw it on newegg on bought it there
im not saying reddit knows better im just saying the reason i bought it was cause reddit says it’s good enough
also after changing both psu and cooler my pc only shut down once
after turning off the two fans i blue screen twice
i lowered my ram speed and hasnt crashed yet so ima say we maybe in the clear
but the crashing was always inconsistent so ill wait more before i say the problem was fixed