Question PC will sometimes turn off if made to play games at high graphics quality ?

[wizardmanofsouth]

Hello lovely people of Tom's Hardware, hoping someone here can help!

This is my build:

Intel i9-11900K

Gigabyte Aorus Extreme 3080 OC (Rev 2.0)

MSI Mag Z590 Torpedo

Corsair 16GB (2 x 8) RAM @ 2400MhZ

Samsung M.2 1TB SSD 980

Corsair CX850M

For some reason, when I try to play games at a fairly demanding resolution, i.e. high and up, it sometimes causes my pc to turn off, and then immediately turn back on again, like nothing happened, no BSOD, no error message, no Windows Repair, nothing.

I am unsure what is causing this and have been told multiple different suggestions such as:

1). A faulty PSU/GPU.

2). The CPU is overvolting itself/is spiking voltage draw within a core?

3). The GPU needs to be underclocked.

4). My PSU is not sufficient enough for this build.

Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this? I am happy to go into as much detail with follow up questions but I am not the world's most technical person I will say now!

Thank you in advance!

 

[Misgar]

I've checked the Corsair CX-M in this list and it comes up as Tier C - Low End, but only the 650W and 750W versions are mentioned.

https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

Although Corsair gets good reviews for their RM and AX units, it's possible the CX is struggling to meet the peak demands of your 3080 OC, despite being rated at 850W.

Some of the more powerful GPUs pull very short duration current spikes twice the average current. The 400V bulk storage capacitor in the PSU might not have enough capacity to supply sudden transients, well above average.

If the GPU is being overclocked as the name implies, can you set it back to stock speeds?

Try running MSI Afterburner and set the maximum GPU power to 95% or 90%.

Obviously this will affect frame rates, but might help to isolate the culprit.

 

[wizardmanofsouth]

Hey man, thank you for your reply!

I should have mentioned that I have already lowered the clock speed (I had set it to -195MHz on Afterburner) quite some time ago after a friend recommended I do this and at the time, it seemed ok, although I also continued to only play games on Low as I was afraid of making things worse.

The OC clock OOTB is listed as 1905MHz on Gigabyte's official spec sheet for the card, and Nvidia's base clock for it's 3080 is listed at 1440MHz, unless I'm reading this info incorrectly.

Would you suggest I go even lower and return this card back to OEM clock speeds?

As for your point about my PSU, that's quite interesting to read, I wonder if perhaps my PSU is equally low in terms of rating, even with it not being on there.

Also, to add another thing, someone on Reddit had suggested I run a program called "OCCT" and run a stress test to figure out if anything was acting up, and the moment I ran the test, my PC immediately turned off, and then straight back on, just as I had mentioned in my original post, is this perhaps another indicator that it is indeed my PSU that is to blame?

Thanks again!

 

[Bob.B]

Hello lovely people of Tom's Hardware, hoping someone here can help!

This is my build:

Intel i9-11900K

Gigabyte Aorus Extreme 3080 OC (Rev 2.0)

MSI Mag Z590 Torpedo

Corsair 16GB (2 x 8) RAM @ 2400MhZ

Samsung M.2 1TB SSD 980

Corsair CX850M

For some reason, when I try to play games at a fairly demanding resolution, i.e. high and up, it sometimes causes my pc to turn off, and then immediately turn back on again, like nothing happened, no BSDO, no error message, no windows repair, nothing.

I am unsure what is causing this and have been told multiple different suggestions such as:

1). A faulty PSU/GPU.

2). The CPU is overvolting itself/is spiking voltage draw within a core?

3). The GPU needs to be underclocked.

4). My PSU is not sufficient enough for this build.

Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this? I am happy to go into as much detail with follow up questions but I am not the world's most technical person I will say now!

Thank you in advance!

Swap out the psu the 5yr warranty is a flag that it is not meant for high end gaming systems.

Shop for a psu with a minimum 7yr or 10yr would be better warranty.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

Corsair CX850M

there are quite a few iterations of the CX-M series.
the majority of them are considered very low quality and not recommended for any type of heavy usage system, like gaming.

if it's still within it's return period, get your money back and put it towards something reliable.
if not, just replace it and find some other use for it.

 

[Misgar]

I agree. Don't RMA your GPU until you've tried a better PSU. Prices have almost doubled in the last three years, due to Covid, etc.

Consider something in Tier A of that list I linked, or post a few locally obtainable PSU model numbers here for review.

 

[wizardmanofsouth]

I agree. Don't RMA your GPU until you've tried a better PSU. Prices have almost doubled in the last three years, due to Covid, etc.

Consider something in Tier A of that list I linked, or post a few locally obtainable PSU model numbers here for review.

How about the following:

•Be Quiet BN285 1000W

•Corsair RM850x 850W

Otherwise that Be Quiet Dark Power and/or the Corsair RM Shift seem like they might be good, would just have to order them from elsewhere, the options I suggested are locally available right now.

 

[Misgar]

I've got an RM850X in my latest rig with a 7950X, but I'm only running a 3060 which pulls less than your 3080OC. I do have five hard disks in addition to three NVMe drives, plus an LSI SAS controller card and a 10GbE network card, so our power use might be similar.

As with any recommendation, what works in my PC might not work in yours.

Read a few online reviews for your GPU, especially regarding peak power requirements, then check any prospective PSUs in the ratings list. Hope you fix the fault.

 

[Bob.B]

How about the following:

•Be Quiet BN285 1000W

•Corsair RM850x 850W

Otherwise that Be Quiet Dark Power and/or the Corsair RM Shift seem like they might be good, would just have to order them from elsewhere, the options I suggested are locally available right now.

Look at the warranty for both units.
I think that will answer your question.