Question PC won't enter normal Windows after dust cleaning ?

[rdkrd19]

SPECS:
AMD Ryzen Pro 7 4750g
Deepcool Gammaxx 400 ex
2x8gb G.Skill Ripjaws
Samsung 970 evo plus 500gb
MSI B550M Pro-Vdh-Wifi
CoolerMaster MWE Bronze v2 650W

4 months from purchase date.


So, I started dust cleaning my PC, I took off the 8pin and 24pin from my motherboard and started with the fans, I took off my aftermarket cpu cooler, DeepCool Gammaxx 400 Ex. then I used a dry brush to remove dust. Placed all of them, no loose cables, and no foreign objects. I was confident that it would turn back on without any problems.

Unfortunately, I can't get into windows. Normally I would swipe up from the lockscreen, then enter my 4-DIGIT pin. However, it just went blank or BSOD, the lights from fans flickered a bit, then the CPU light from my motherboard lit up. It didn't shut down, the fans and lights kept running, it's like I can keep it for as long as I want.

I did a lot of googling and troubleshooting.

Tried:

• I did CPU Reseat,
• 1 Ram Stick boot,
• Reseated every component,
• Triple checked everything to see if something is loose,
• CMOS Reset.

DIDN'T WORK. But, I found out that there's like a liquid coming from the thermal pad off my M.2 Nvme. Is this normal?

Software:
Since I can enter windows safe mode, couldn't stay long in safe mode, even in BIOS/UEFI.

I did a System Restore and tried
Deleting the Graphics Driver.

DIDN'T WORK.

I'm panicking, I talked to my friends, they suggested the same method I did.

I didn't try to swap each component since I don't have any extra and I don't have someone to borrow components.

TL;DR: I DUST CLEANED MY PC, PC WON'T ENTER NORMAL WINDOWS, CAN ENTER BUT COULDN'T STAY LONG IN SAFE MODE AND UEFI DUE TO CRASHING.

NEVER DID OVERCLOCKING.

What do you guys think? Is this a CPU, PSU, MOBO, DISK, or RAM issue? Replacement? Fried? Faulty?

 

[rgd1101]

did you redo the thermal paste after you took the cooler off?

 

[dudio]

Since you can briefly get in to the BIOS, confirm your cpu temp there

 

[rdkrd19]

did you redo the thermal paste after you took the cooler off?

Yup.

 

[rdkrd19]

Since you can briefly get in to the BIOS, confirm your cpu temp there

When I first enter BIOS/UEFI CPU Temp is from 50 lowering down to 38°c, then stabilizes. Mobo temp 35°c

 

[cAllen]

FWIW

I did the same thing with my 13 YO 775 socket rig and got bit with similar problem. Did the same troubleshooting SOPs like you, gave up and dropped it off at Microcenter. Next day call comes back everything is good. Asked the Tech what she did to fix it and said she reseated all connectors, cards and Ram, fired it up, ran their T/S software, found no faults then booted up successfully into Windows. I brought it home, fired it up and after resetting time/date she worked like a charm. Boy did I fell stupid. Not saying that's what will fix your's, but it wouldn't hurt to go back and reseat all your stuff one more time. Might get lucky.

Respects.

 

[Ralston18]

This:

"But, I found out that there's like a liquid coming from the thermal pad off my M.2 Nvme. "

Is the M.2 the boot drive or a second drive? Make and model drive(s) - capacity, how full?

I would not expect to see liquid coming out. The liquid source needs to be verified.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Use a bright flashlight to inspect the area for signs of damage. Pull the M.2 to look underneath.

If possible take a couple of photographs and post here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

This motherboard?

https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C95v1.7.pdf

Review the entire manual but take a close look at physically numbered Pages 28,29,30, and 31.

 

[rdkrd19]

This:

"But, I found out that there's like a liquid coming from the thermal pad off my M.2 Nvme. "

Is the M.2 the boot drive or a second drive? Make and model drive(s) - capacity, how full?

I would not expect to see liquid coming out. The liquid source needs to be verified.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Use a bright flashlight to inspect the area for signs of damage. Pull the M.2 to look underneath.

If possible take a couple of photographs and post here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

This motherboard?

https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C95v1.7.pdf

Review the entire manual but take a close look at physically numbered Pages 28,29,30, and 31.

So, I checked to see if there's damage, there isn't. But the liquid mark's still here. Maybe it's from the heatsink's thermal pad that came with the mobo? The pad's supposed to be light blue, now it looks desaturated, like its soul got sucked. Is this supposed to be happen? Lol

Here's the M.2

 

[rdkrd19]

FWIW

I did the same thing with my 13 YO 775 socket rig and got bit with similar problem. Did the same troubleshooting SOPs like you, gave up and dropped it off at Microcenter. Next day call comes back everything is good. Asked the Tech what she did to fix it and said she reseated all connectors, cards and Ram, fired it up, ran their T/S software, found no faults then booted up successfully into Windows. I brought it home, fired it up and after resetting time/date she worked like a charm. Boy did I fell stupid. Not saying that's what will fix your's, but it wouldn't hurt to go back and reseat all your stuff one more time. Might get lucky.

Respects.

I'll do that one more time, see if I get lucky.
Thanks though. Have a good one.

 

[rdkrd19]

Turns out, it was the Integrated Graphics of my cpu. A friend come over and we tested it using an external gpu. It worked. How did this happen?

 

[cAllen]

Assuming you used the same display and display cord...

If you pulled the card and double checked your internal graphics again after that successful boot and the failure repeated, it's time for a new board. If the board is still under warranty...get an RMA. If not, newegg sells them new for $120. The other option is get a dedicated GPU for it, but that will cost more...unless...you have a good friend with an old one laying around not being used. Glad you figured it out.

 

[rdkrd19]

Assuming you used the same display and display cord...

If you pulled the card and double checked your internal graphics again after that successful boot and the failure repeated, it's time for a new board. If the board is still under warranty...get an RMA. If not, newegg sells them new for $120. The other option is get a dedicated GPU for it, but that will cost more...unless...you have a good friend with an old one laying around not being used. Glad you figured it out.

Yup, just got a temporary GPU while saving for a new one. everything works fine now.

 

[rdkrd19]

Now with the External GPU, I did a stress test using furmark, pc crashed. I was wondering if it's a CPU, PSU, or MOBO problem.

I disabled my Core Performance Boost, and tested everything on OCCT for 10 mins. CPU was fine. GPU was fine. RAM was fine. Power was fine.

Enabled it, tested again. CPU was fine, even on extreme. RAM was fine. GPU was fine.

but.

Power Test, CRASHED. shows CPU Ez Debug Light.

I think the problem is narrowed down to either the PSU or the MOBO, isn't it?

Options are, staying at nerfed cpu, return/replace mobo, and or replace/return psu?

 

[cAllen]

Troubleshooting MSI EZ Debug LEDs: Everything You need to know

MSI's EZ Debug LEDs are geat for troubleshooting any PC-startup Issues. You'll be able to narrow down the troublesome component in no time. We show you how.

www.cgdirector.com

Bed time for me.

 

[cAllen]

What specific GPU did you get from your friend?

This "almost" sounds like you need more power because of the GPU, but you should run a PSU calculator for a rough check. Please, I mean no offense, but it looks like you have a low-mid range work and daily driver budget rig. "If" indeed you are short on power now, then you might have to decide if it's better to RMA your board to get back to square one, or start throwing more money at it for upgrades. Of course your other option is to just leave it on lower settings and walk away.

Was this rig a pre-built? If so, is there any kind of warranty?

 

[rdkrd19]

What specific GPU did you get from your friend?

This "almost" sounds like you need more power because of the GPU, but you should run a PSU calculator for a rough check. Please, I mean no offense, but it looks like you have a low-mid range work and daily driver budget rig. "If" indeed you are short on power now, then you might have to decide if it's better to RMA your board to get back to square one, or start throwing more money at it for upgrades. Of course your other option is to just leave it on lower settings and walk away.

Was this rig a pre-built? If so, is there any kind of warranty?

No worries, none taken. I mainly use this rig for productivity and light gaming.

Well, it's an old Asus Geforce GT730.

I really like the processor though, bought it for like $220. The only problem is that couldn't find any of it anymore, most of it is in the pre-built ones. It's a bummer that this happened.

I am looking forward to RMA the board but for now, I'll do more tests just to be sure.

But if it doesn't affect my workflow, I'll stay for the lower settings option for now.