[SOLVED] PC won't power on ?

[geth153]

Hi all,

I have had a self-built PC for the past year using the following:

WD Blue 1TB NVME SSD
Kolink Classic 700W 80+ Bronze PSU
Gigabyte 3070
MSI x470 Gaming Plus Max
16GB DDR4 RAM
3600XT CPU

I changed my motherboard last week due to an issue with powering on, and some of the I/O ports no longer working. I put this down to a rough move as it was packaged and send across the country via a delivery service.

I have just put in an MSI B550M motherboard, and put it all together. Unfortunately I am getting no power when pressing the power button.

I have tested the PSU, and this seems to work (using the paper clip method). When I have the PSU plugged in and I put in an ethernet cable, there is power going to the I/O panel as a light pops up. However there are no LEDs lighting up on the motherboard, nor any fans going. I have also tried using a screwdriver on the power switch pins to no avail.

Does anyone have any more advise on how to troubleshoot this?

Thanks very much!

 

[Ralston18]

A "rough move" is likely to just end up with loose components and connections". A truly rough move would very likely show physical damage and broken things.

That said, as I understand your post, the problems are power related.

My first suspect would be that Kolink Classic 700W 80+ Bronze PSU . It may be nearing its' designed in EOL (End of Life) and simply starting to falter and fail under load. History of heavy gaming use?

The paper clip test and LED's on the I/O panel only show that voltage is present. Not the correct voltage nor the proper wattage.

A screw driver on the pins is also not something I would rely on. Using a jumper - better choice.

My suggestion: do you have a multi-meter and know how to use it? Or know someone who does?

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a true test because the PSU is not under load. However any voltage out of spec makes the PSU suspect.

My advice:

Because you installed a new motherboard, use the B550's User Guide/Manual to double check all physical connections and the applicable configuration settings. Do the same for all installed components including the host case. Power button connection being a potential suspect.

Pay attention to all warnings and fine print. Details matter.

Hopefully there is just some simple error of omission or commission with respect to the installation of the new motherboard.

 

[--SID--]

Kolink Classic 700W 80+ Bronze PSU

Why do you use a group regulated unit in a modern PC? The PSU is not sufficient due to bad voltage regulation and high transient time. Replace it for a modern unit with LLC on the primary.

 

[ErickParker]

This is an annoying problem. I went through this twice and it was the fault of the PSUs. Like us, they grow old and fail. My best suggestion is to put another font in place for testing. if it works, you are sure it needs to be replaced.

 

[geth153]

A "rough move" is likely to just end up with loose components and connections". A truly rough move would very likely show physical damage and broken things.

That said, as I understand your post, the problems are power related.

My first suspect would be that Kolink Classic 700W 80+ Bronze PSU . It may be nearing its' designed in EOL (End of Life) and simply starting to falter and fail under load. History of heavy gaming use?

The paper clip test and LED's on the I/O panel only show that voltage is present. Not the correct voltage nor the proper wattage.

A screw driver on the pins is also not something I would rely on. Using a jumper - better choice.

My suggestion: do you have a multi-meter and know how to use it? Or know someone who does?

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a true test because the PSU is not under load. However any voltage out of spec makes the PSU suspect.

My advice:

Because you installed a new motherboard, use the B550's User Guide/Manual to double check all physical connections and the applicable configuration settings. Do the same for all installed components including the host case. Power button connection being a potential suspect.

Pay attention to all warnings and fine print. Details matter.

Hopefully there is just some simple error of omission or commission with respect to the installation of the new motherboard.

Thanks for the reply!

I did think it was potentially a result of the PSU. I do use it heavily for gaming. However, I have just attempted to put in a new PSU, and the same issue is occurring.

Unfortunately I do not have a multi-metre to hand. I am isolating from COVID at the moment so that further limits my abilities to find something to use!!

 

[Ralston18]

With respect to the new PSU: you did not reuse any of the old PSU cables - correct?

Will the computer boot into safe mode?

Also being a new motherboard take another look at/triple check all connections, card seatings, RAM, and jumpers.

Ensure that all are fully and firmly in place. No one wants to force any connections or seatings but what feels to be in place may not be fully seating. Unplug and replug each seating and connection a few times.

Again reference the motherboard's User Guide/Manual.

Remember to check case connections.

Try a new CMOS battery just as a matter of elimination.

Did you do a clean Windows install?

https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq/windows-10-clean-install-tutorial.3170366/

A clean install may be necessary.

 

[Vic 40]

Also being a new motherboard take another look at/triple check all connections, card seatings, RAM, and jumpers.

Ensure that all are fully and firmly in place. No one wants to force any connections or seatings but what feels to be in place may not be fully seating. Unplug and replug each seating and connection a few times.

Again reference the motherboard's User Guide/Manual.

Remember to check case connections.

Try a new CMOS battery just as a matter of elimination.

+1.
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