Question PC won't switch on without clearing the CMOS everytime ?

[leonkennedy_7]

Hi all
I need your help in resolving an issue with my PC.

I built my PC about 6-7 years ago, it had GTX970, some Intel i5 processor, 8gb DDR3 Ram, Corsair 750-Watt platinum PSU. About a month ago I started facing an issue with powering the system ON. I had to keep the power button pressed for about 30 seconds for it to power on, I thought it was due to a faulty CMOS battery, so I replaced it, the PC powered ON perfectly for a few days and then the issue started again. This time I noticed that reseating the CMOS battery was fixing the issue.
Tired of opening the case and clearing CMOS every day I decided to upgrade my system.

So, I got myself a new i5 12400f processor, Gskill16 GB DDR5 RAM and MSI H610M Motherboard. It booted fine the first time, however when I shut it down to see if the issue was resolved it refused to switch on. I tried the old trick of removing the CMOS battery and placing it back, that fixed the issue as expected, during one of the successful starts I noticed that the GPU led was blinking Amber on the motherboard, upon inspection I found that one of the three fans on GPU wasn't spinning as smoothly, so I thought it's a great excuse to replace the aging GTX 970.

I bought the new RTX 3060 graphic card, just like the last time the PC booted perfectly fine the first time. however, when I shut it down to see if the issue is resolved, the issue happened again. I removed the power cable and removed the CMOS battery, gave it about 30 mins and the PC booted just fine.

So now after replacing nearly all the hardware on my PC the issue still persists.

I also tried to see if the case power switch was faulty, so I used a thin metal pin to connect the power pins on motherboard, but the PC didn't switch on, plus the power buttons works just fine after reseating the CMOS battery.

That leave me with only one possibility, that the power supply may be failing, however I am not 100% sure as the PC, when switched on doesn't shut down or show BSOD. I ran benchmarks and even under load the PC ran just fine.

The issue seems to be happening only when switching the PC.

So, I'd appreciate if anyone could suggest a fix that'd save me from buying a new power supply.

TIA

 

[35below0]

You replaced almost everything except the PSU, and that was the first thing to try. Borrow a PSU from another computer if you can, or buy a new one.

It almost certainly is the power supply. They don't die 100% (sometimes they do). Sometimes they cannot deliver stated watts, or they cause crashes, or power-on issues like you've had.

These are pretty good:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Km...ified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fm

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2gCZxr/seasonic-focus-gx-750-atx-30-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-atx3-focus-gx-750

How old is your PSU? Is it out of warranty? Because if it is, you certainly need a new one.

Also, H610 are dirt cheap motherboards. You should not expect much from them. Much better to buy B660 or B760. Ideally a z690 motherboard would be great if you can afford it. AsRock z690 Riptide or Extreme are $125 and they're great.

 

[leonkennedy_7]

You replaced almost everything except the PSU, and that was the first thing to try. Borrow a PSU from another computer if you can, or buy a new one.

It almost certainly is the power supply. They don't die 100% (sometimes they do). Sometimes they cannot deliver stated watts, or they cause crashes, or power-on issues like you've had.

These are pretty good:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Km...ified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fm

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2gCZxr/seasonic-focus-gx-750-atx-30-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-atx3-focus-gx-750

How old is your PSU? Is it out of warranty? Because if it is, you certainly need a new one.

Also, H610 are dirt cheap motherboards. You should not expect much from them. Much better to buy B660 or B760. Ideally a z690 motherboard would be great if you can afford it. AsRock z690 Riptide or Extreme are $125 and they're great.

>So, I'd appreciate if anyone could suggest a fix that'd save me from buying a new power supply

Suggest a PSU tester, https://amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK

View: https://youtu.be/mVWz_hSenn0

>Also, H610 are dirt cheap motherboards. You should not expect much from them.

H610 is feature-limited, not poor quality. As long as people are aware of its limitations, it's a good buy. OP bought budget parts, so H610 is right in line. His 65W 12400f isn't going to tax the VRM.

But OP also bought DDR5 which costs more, which means H610 DDR5 also costs more ($120 DDR5 variant vs $80 DDR4 variant on Amazon). So, eh, not great choices. But OP didn't ask for buying opinions.

Hi, thanks a lot, I got a great deal on the RAM on Amazon India,

I got G.Skill Ripjaws S5 Intel XMP 16GB (1 * 16GB) DDR5 5200 MHz CL40-40-40-83 1.40V Desktop RAM Memory for about $47 US.
The cheapest DDR4 RAM was Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (1x16GB) DDR4 3200MHZ UDIMM C16 Desktop RAM for about $43 US.

 

[leonkennedy_7]

35below0 & baboma
Thanks a lot for your help.

I found out that my Corsair HX750i comes with a 10-year warranty and still has about 2 years left on it. I'm going to get the PSU checked at the nearest service center.

and yes, my aim was to buy budget parts, I initially was thinking of building an AMD system, but while browsing I came across a great deal on Intel i5 12400 (~ $105), $98 for MSI PRO H610M-E DDR5 variant and ~ $47 for G.Skill Ripjaws DDR5 RAM. I just wanted to make sure the build is as future proof as possible.
Now that most of my time goes at working from home and the remaining time is occupied by my 2-year-old daughter, building a fancy gaming rig wasn't the intention.