PCI-E 6 pin in a 8 pin to 2x 6+2 pin adapter

Feb 1, 2019
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I recently ordered a 450w PSU that only has one 6 pin cable by accident, while my GPU needs a 6 pin and a 8 pin. I'm guessing just the 6 pin won't cut it in my GPU (Radeon R9 280) I was thinking of ordering an adapter, will an 8 pin to 2x 6+2 work? Can I plug just the 6 pin into the 8 pin adapter or will only a 8 pin cable work in it? Or would I be better off finding a 6 pin to 2x 6+2? At least until I can afford a better PSU in a few weeks.

Edit: So I just realized the PSU I ordered actually has a 6+2 pin, not just 6. So my question now would be, would any 8 to 2x6+2 adapter work? Or is there something additional I need to know to ensure I get the right one?
 
you need to know that the right thing to do would be to send that PSU back and buy one that is adequate. what you are thinking is sure to cause issues down the line especially if you purchased a junk unit. adapter's are not the best idea when it comes to PSU's.
 


 
I'm sure it will cause issues eventually, I only meant as a temporary solution until I can afford a new PSU in 2-3 weeks. If it ruins my GPU then well, that would suck but I plan to upgrade that as well when I get the PSU. I know it's a risk but I'm just wondering if it would work temporarily.
 
Your specific PSU model has only one 6+2 cable because that's the max +12V power that it can provide to a graphics card according to its design specifications. Additionally that PSU has a pretty low wattage output so I doubt that it can support a 2nd 6+2 cable. Each 6+2 cable can official support up to 150W (+12V) and you also don't know what is the +12V max output of your PSU. Keep in mind that other parts in your system need +12V power (CPU, motherboard, drives, etc). On top of that putting an adapter on the same cable is dangerous because the excessive heat can melt the cables and even cause a fire. Finally you may be able to use molex adapters but then again your PSU probably won't be able to handle it and you may end up burning the PSU and if it's not a quality unit it can take additional parts with it (GPU, CPU, motherboard). Therefore I think that you should get another PSU and avoid trying this experiment. Good luck.
 
Let’s say I try the experiment and just keep a very very close eye on the temperature of my system while using it and keep it off when I’m not using it. Could I avoid a disaster by doing that?
 


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It's not just a BAD idea. It's a REALLY BAD idea.
 


No, you won't. The temperature has nothing to do with it. The power draw and how your PSU can handle it is the only thing that matters. Once you turn it on and start gaming (provided that it works), you can't control the outcome and you may hear the PSU blowing up in flames at any time. There are 2 scenarios here and none of them is good for you. If you have a mediocre PSU, then a disaster is very likely. On the other hand if you have a PSU with adequate build quality and all the necessary protection mechanisms, it will probably shutdown in order to protect your system thus it won't work. So get a new and better PSU in order to avoid future headaches. If you still want to try it, it's your choice but don't say we didn't warn you. Good luck then because you'll definitely need it.
 
Do you even know what the model of the PSU is? If not, that would be a very good place to start. It's still not going to work out, because if a power supply doesn't have the necessary connections, then:

1. It's not good enough to use with the hardware that NEEDS those connections.

2. It wasn't INTENDED for use with the demands of that kind of hardware, regardless of what adapters you use. Molex, EPS, PEG/PCI and other connections are all designed for specific purposes.

If a PSU doesn't have an 8 pin or 6+2 pin, then it shouldn't be used with a graphics card that needs one. Period.

If a PSU doesn't have TWO of those, then it shouldn't be used with a graphics card that needs one. Period.

You are risking more than just your power supply. If it's a cheap model, and maybe even if it isn't, you could easily damage the graphics card, motherboard or other components that are connected to the power supply as well. So, that means everything, because it's ALL connected to the power supply one way or another.

Get a good power supply. Unless you just don't care about the hardware or are too thickheaded to listen to the advice of some of the longest standing systems builders and techs anywhere on the web, in which case, you shouldn't have asked for advice on this issue at all.

Click the spoiler box for recommendations on which power supply models are reliable.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.

And at this link you can find recommendations for how much capacity you should be looking for, from the models listed above.

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm