PSU good enough for overclocking?

[theAngeLs]

I might buy Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 soon, but I'm not sure if my PSU is good enough to overclock my CPU, which is FX-6300 (running currently 3,5 GHz @ stock), and I have a bottleneck. I want to overclock it to 4,0 - 4,1 GHz, which should be enough to minimize it, that's what people say atleast. I have done research on my current mobo and ppl don't recommend to overclock with it, so please no questions about it. My PSU is Corsair 600W +80 Bronze. Honestly, I'm a bit scared of overclocking, and here are my full computer specifications:
M5A78L-LE (Mobo)
GTX 670 Mini (Factory Overclocked) 2GB (GPU)
FX-6300 Black Edition @ 3,5 GHz Stock
8GB Hyper-X RAM (CL9, 1600MHz)
Am I able to overclock my CPU to 4,0 - 4,1 GHz with Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0?
Thank you!

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

Killer is a great gamer and with it's decent power design it should be a good mid-range overclocker.

 

[theAngeLs]

Killer is a great gamer and with it's decent power design it should be a good mid-range overclocker.

I googled it with FX-6300 combo and saw ppl having problems, and on 2 different threads the solution was to clear CMO or something like that. Is the motherboard capable of hitting 4,5 GHz by the way?
Does these parts fit/be correct sized for ATX / Mid-tower or can it be a full tower?
Sorry if too many questions is asked, and I'm not sure if you know that much of cases.

 

[yanis31]

well - you don't really "need" a 990fx board, it depends if you want to spend the extra money for some extra features
- people here will always recommend something higher up the food chain and more expensive,
as you can see - my Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P handles 4.7 ghz (and probably more) just fine,
you shouldn't expect anything worse with it unless you run into a cpu limitation,
990fx chipset has SLI and Crossfire support, 970 only Crossfire since amd probably has to pay something to nvidia to implement it (i'm not sure)
and the 2nd pci-express slot on the ud3p is only 4x so i wouldn't put anything powerful in it anyway... this is not the only board with this problem,
it is possible you could push ram to higher mhz with a 990fx board but also not guaranteed -
and most importantly - it will be limited by your cpu's internal memory controller anyway which only officially supports up to 1866mhz with 2 modules/1600mhz with 4
my Corsair Vengeance Low profile 1866 9-10-9-27 8gb kit works just fine and i've pushed it to 2000mhz and it was fine too,
-many people on this forum will tell you you need a 8 core FX for 1866mhz - as we can see that is not the case.
the Asrock killer board looks quite nice to me and seems to have a somewhat interesting audio solution on it and the killer lan...
altho the VIA 2021 108db SNR solution on the gigabyte board isn't bad either -
to give you an examle - i bought a Soundblaster Omni surround usb card and i have Edifier R2800 speakers hooked up via optical,
and i almost feel like music sounded better from the VIA... it seemed to be "wider" and more organic, soundblaster - stiffer and more "metallic"
of course if we're talking analogue/headphones output - the soundblaster is much better.

so decide for youself but since you are on a budget... - well it doesn't make sense to me to dump alot of cash into a FX 6 core build...
i would push for a i5 build in that case... but if you have a cpu already that's a different story

one thing i'm conflicted about is the psu
is it the CX600 "V2" version? it shows 40amps on the 12v rail (12volts x 40amps = 480watts) so it's a bit close to the limits
but there are versions of CX600 with 46 amps too...
my CX600M with 46amps would handle this setup just fine,
i ran my cpu overclock and both a GTX770 (which is a faster version of the GTX680 card so probably consumes a bit more power too)
and a GTX580 beforehand with a healthy 100mhz overclock on it (i think this draws a little more power than the 770)
and accodring to some quick graphs i googled - probably some 70w-80w more than your gtx670 mini...
and got no problems ... if you have the 40 amp version i'm not sure what to tell ya...
i think it will handle it but the PSU's lifespan will be shortened since it'll run close to it's limits. - i would risk it probably and replace it after a while

you can watch these vids to see why i'm somewhat sceptical on asrock boards:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDxFbAhu4Bo

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

Sabertooth Rev 2.

Phanteks Cooler PH-TC14PE.

 

[theAngeLs]

well - you don't really "need" a 990fx board, it depends if you want to spend the extra money for some extra features
- people here will always recommend something higher up the food chain and more expensive,
as you can see - my Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P handles 4.7 ghz (and probably more) just fine,
you shouldn't expect anything worse with it unless you run into a cpu limitation,
990fx chipset has SLI and Crossfire support, 970 only Crossfire since amd probably has to pay something to nvidia to implement it (i'm not sure)
and the 2nd pci-express slot on the ud3p is only 4x so i wouldn't put anything powerful in it anyway... this is not the only board with this problem,
it is possible you could push ram to higher mhz with a 990fx board but also not guaranteed -
and most importantly - it will be limited by your cpu's internal memory controller anyway which only officially supports up to 1866mhz with 2 modules/1600mhz with 4
my Corsair Vengeance Low profile 1866 9-10-9-27 8gb kit works just fine and i've pushed it to 2000mhz and it was fine too,
-many people on this forum will tell you you need a 8 core FX for 1866mhz - as we can see that is not the case.
the Asrock killer board looks quite nice to me and seems to have a somewhat interesting audio solution on it and the killer lan...
altho the VIA 2021 108db SNR solution on the gigabyte board isn't bad either -
to give you an examle - i bought a Soundblaster Omni surround usb card and i have Edifier R2800 speakers hooked up via optical,
and i almost feel like music sounded better from the VIA... it seemed to be "wider" and more organic, soundblaster - stiffer and more "metallic"
of course if we're talking analogue/headphones output - the soundblaster is much better.

so decide for youself but since you are on a budget... - well it doesn't make sense to me to dump alot of cash into a FX 6 core build...
i would push for a i5 build in that case... but if you have a cpu already that's a different story

one thing i'm conflicted about is the psu
is it the CX600 "V2" version? it shows 40amps on the 12v rail (12volts x 40amps = 480watts) so it's a bit close to the limits
but there are versions of CX600 with 46 amps too...
my CX600M with 46amps would handle this setup just fine,
i ran my cpu overclock and both a GTX770 (which is a faster version of the GTX680 card so probably consumes a bit more power too)
and a GTX580 beforehand with a healthy 100mhz overclock on it (i think this draws a little more power than the 770)
and accodring to some quick graphs i googled - probably some 70w-80w more than your gtx670 mini...
and got no problems ... if you have the 40 amp version i'm not sure what to tell ya...
i think it will handle it but the PSU's lifespan will be shortened since it'll run close to it's limits. - i would risk it probably and replace it after a while

you can watch these vids to see why i'm somewhat sceptical on asrock boards:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDxFbAhu4Bo

http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/CP-9020048-EU This is the PSU I have. Seems like It's 40 AMP, well this ruined everything. There is only one other Corsair 600W Psu which is Corsair 600W CX M Builder Series 80+ Bronze (seems to be 40amp too, and I will not use any other site, because my parents are so skeptical about every single site where I want to buy stuff from. I don't want to go through this frustration again and It's better to order all stuff from one place anyway, there is no shipment cost. I could switch to the Gigabyte mobo (a bit dissapointment but I can live with it lol) and find a 620-650w good quality with affordable price, I saw this but its only 42 amp and Blackbird mentioned VS being bad. http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/CP-9020051-EU
UPDATE: I stumbled upon this PSU http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/0-761345-10665-8 and I believe it has 48 amp? I think Antec is a highly trusted manufacturer. Here is another PSU, made by Zalman 700W: http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/ZM700-GLX but I'm not sure if this is a good PSU. What are your opinions between these PSUs? I would have to choose one of them anyway because I don't want to go any higher price (tried finding other psus, if you want the whole list of 501W - 800W psus listed in price order then here it is: http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/1293/order/price Once again in Finnish but names are in english and descriptions too, so shouldn't be a problem. : )
UPDATE: I lowered the price by finding a decent case with good cooling but lower priced, and I stumbled upon this case: http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/PR-CO-ZM-Z11-PLUS even Linus made a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRKKu78Yp9M What do you think? There would be no problems of fitting my GPU in (ppl seem to have questions or problems about it on comments) because I have the Mini GTX 670.

 

[yanis31]

Sabertooth Rev 2.

Phanteks Cooler PH-TC14PE.

well.. if you say so...



http://valid.canardpc.com/6hvr3d

who knows - maybe it can go further

 

[yanis31]

the seasonic would be a good choice since they make excellent and very reliable psu's -
BUT - it has two 12v rails which i don't prefer to be honest... still nothing wrong with it
also the Fractal Design Tesla R2 650W looks pretty decent in that pricerange (80 plus gold certified / 54 amps )
i don't know much about the antec... also the cooler master g series
i actually built another fx6350 / ga-970a-udrp build for a friend with the VS650M psu... but he has a R9-270x so its under less strain...
i didn't like it's smaller fan with just kindof a cutout instead of the usual "grille" for better airflow but can't say much else...
corsair don't make bad psu's in general so it would handle your system but since you have a choice .. i'd say get something slightly better
"hardware secrets" do pretty in depth PSU reviews and i see them being a bit disappointed in some of the later Zalman models...
you could browse their reviews to find something good... techpowerup also has some good ones...

 

[theAngeLs]

the seasonic would be a good choice since they make excellent and very reliable psu's -
BUT - it has two 12v rails which i don't prefer to be honest... still nothing wrong with it
also the Fractal Design Tesla R2 650W looks pretty decent in that pricerange (80 plus gold certified / 54 amps )
i don't know much about the antec... also the cooler master g series
i actually built another fx6350 / ga-970a-udrp build for a friend with the VS650M psu... but he has a R9-270x so its under less strain...
i didn't like it's smaller fan with just kindof a cutout instead of the usual "grille" for better airflow but can't say much else...
corsair don't make bad psu's in general so it would handle your system but since you have a choice .. i'd say get something slightly better
"hardware secrets" do pretty in depth PSU reviews and i see them being a bit disappointed in some of the later Zalman models...
you could browse their reviews to find something good... techpowerup also has some good ones...

We decided that I can take money from my bank account (Normally I don't, because that money is meant for later, you know when turning 18 and stuff, getting car license, etc). http://postimg.org/image/4bw8kg9kv/ I think these will be my final choices (I had extra money open, so I decided to buy a headset, because I have a 5€ headset atm lol. I even saw a guy with the same GPU & CPU as mine. He overclocked CPU to 4,6GHz and got around 60 fps on High settings on Watchdogs, which would okay for me and I don't need ultra anyway nor I don't care about eyecandy that much. My gpu is factory overclocked so it's a plus. I hope I would get around 35fps when GTA V comes out to PC (might buy it.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DwJCxKVHX0

 

[yanis31]

looks good, case is pretty solid too (later when u get a chance maybe drop in a 2nd front intake fan)
but that's nothing to worry about.. just might drop the temps by 1-2 degrees or something and its nice to have something blowing around HDD too

-i'm sure gtaV will be ok (the physics look kinda downgraded since gta4 - and on gta4 i get about the same performance as people with i7's,
meaning everything runs fine but with a maxed out game it can sometimes drop down to 30fps or even a bit less at night in very intense situations full of cars etc. i don't think rockstar will make this mistake again especially since it will launch together with the new consoles that have slow amd 8 cores inside...) gpu will also more than enough for it.. rockstar games tend to be more cpu intensive most of the time....

 

[theAngeLs]

looks good, case is pretty solid too (later when u get a chance maybe drop in a 2nd front intake fan)
but that's nothing to worry about.. just might drop the temps by 1-2 degrees or something and its nice to have something blowing around HDD too

-i'm sure gtaV will be ok (the physics look kinda downgraded since gta4 - and on gta4 i get about the same performance as people with i7's,
meaning everything runs fine but with a maxed out game it can sometimes drop down to 30fps or even a bit less at night in very intense situations full of cars etc. i don't think rockstar will make this mistake again especially since it will launch together with the new consoles that have slow amd 8 cores inside...) gpu will also more than enough for it.. rockstar games tend to be more cpu intensive most of the time....

I'm probably going to turn textures to High, disable AA (or leave it to x1), disable shadows and stuff so I think I should get atleast 30fps in fights, etc. A guy made a comparison with i5 and i7 on BF and got only 1fps boost: http://postimg.org/image/fyp166ktp/ Ppl say i7 is mostly for rendering and stuff like that. The most horrible thing that could happen is that I screw up my system, but you gave me guides and everything, so I bet nothing will happen if I be careful. After reading bulldozer guide it doesn't seem to be so hard, but it will be my first overclock, so who knows. Now here comes a question that I've been thinking for sometime now, this part: http://youtu.be/MckeAmnDeTk?t=5m59s . Which settings should I use for UD3P and FX-6300? I'll try to follow JayzTwoCents tutorials settings, but I'll increase Bus frequency to 225 (4,5GHz right?) I'm also a bit worried of those CPU/NB Frequency and HT Link Speed JayzTwoCents mentioned about while changing.

 

[yanis31]

well i'm not going to lie that crosshair v formula 990 board he uses has a few settings i don't have, and wouldn't mid to
and i wonder why i can't find spread spectrum setting anywhere in my bios... maybe gigabyte decided it's not neccessary? no idea.
BUT - the reality is this board handles itself well if you just leave most things on Auto
here's an example of my 100% stable 4.5ghz OC only using multiplier





now to go further than 4.5ghz or if you want to get the same numbers using fsb overclocking things can get a bit more tricky:
to get 4.7 ghz i went for:

BCLK (fsb) 221mhz
Multiplier 21
Cpu Vcore 1.45625
NB Core 1.25
Dram voltage 1.55 (i have 1.5 voltage ram) in case you have 1.65voltage stock probably just leave it alone at that... atleast don't go over 1.7
reduced system memory multiplier one notch to 8.0 so with this FSB setting ram ends up @ 1792mhz (1866 stock) in your case different since you have 1600mhz - main idea just to keep it running slower rather than faster for more stability/ you might even want to go lower in some cases
Vcore Loadline Calibration - Extreme
all other voltages to Auto again

i tried following these guides amd play with other voltage settings and not once i seemed to get a better result than just leaving them on auto...
but manual still offers you better finetuning and possibility to reduce temperatures a bit by only using as much voltage as necessary

but again... if you push for such high oc it's a territory where you'll have to experiment cuz every cpu acts a lil' different,

and there's a chance that some more experienced overclocker could get something more out of my cpu/board since i don't fully understand all the settings either

about APM and HPC:
http://www.ronwoods.us/2014/02/what-does-amd-application-power.html
this link seems to have the best info... i'm not sure jayztwocents did the right thing in his video
atleast on benchmarks i seem to get slightly better score with HPC enabled
you might want to disable APM but in reality i didn't notice any diffrence wether it was on or off...

i went with power saving features like the core c6 states etc. disabled since the general idea is they can cause instability when oc' ing
but in reality i tested it with them on and seemed to work fine -
they reduce your cpu heat and power consumption and possibly extend lifetime while idling or just web browsing etc by downclocking it and reducing voltage to 0.9-1.0 volts
you can also pay with the offset voltages to get a similar scenario with your overclock... i haven't tried those yet
you see i'm also just learning and it's been some 8 months since i got this pc... just haven't put too much time in it since i'm happy with my settings

why i gave up on some of the voltage settings and just left them on auto?
well the 4.9ghz i posted earlier has all of them on auto... just cpu vcore set to 1.5
without auto i actually seemed to hit a wall and couldn't get it to run higher than 4.8..

also consider the Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 as a alternative for this gigabyte board...
should be good too - maybe even better,
the 8+2 power phase design sounds tasty because you know "more is better"
but that is not always the case with electronics and that board should be very good too

[update2] - fsb overclocking vs multiplier makes very little real world difference overall, maybe 1-2% or something like that,
i guess depends on scenario

 

[theAngeLs]

well i'm not going to lie that crosshair v formula 990 board he uses has a few settings i don't have, and wouldn't mid to
and i wonder why i can't find spread spectrum setting anywhere in my bios... maybe gigabyte decided it's not neccessary? no idea.
BUT - the reality is this board handles itself well if you just leave most things on Auto
here's an example of my 100% stable 4.5ghz OC only using multiplier





now to go further than 4.5ghz or if you want to get the same numbers using fsb overclocking things can get a bit more tricky:
to get 4.7 ghz i went for:

BCLK (fsb) 221mhz
Multiplier 21
Cpu Vcore 1.45625
NB Core 1.25
Dram voltage 1.55 (i have 1.5 voltage ram) in case you have 1.65voltage stock probably just leave it alone at that... atleast don't go over 1.7
reduced system memory multiplier one notch to 8.0 so with this FSB setting ram ends up @ 1792mhz (1866 stock) in your case different since you have 1600mhz - main idea just to keep it running slower rather than faster for more stability/ you might even want to go lower in some cases
Vcore Loadline Calibration - Extreme
all other voltages to Auto again

i tried following these guides amd play with other voltage settings and not once i seemed to get a better result than just leaving them on auto...
but manual still offers you better finetuning and possibility to reduce temperatures a bit by only using as much voltage as necessary

but again... if you push for such high oc it's a territory where you'll have to experiment cuz every cpu acts a lil' different,

and there's a chance that some more experienced overclocker could get something more out of my cpu/board since i don't fully understand all the settings either

about APM and HPC:
http://www.ronwoods.us/2014/02/what-does-amd-application-power.html
this link seems to have the best info... i'm not sure jayztwocents did the right thing in his video
atleast on benchmarks i seem to get slightly better score with HPC enabled
you might want to disable APM but in reality i didn't notice any diffrence wether it was on or off...

i went with power saving features like the core c6 states etc. disabled since the general idea is they can cause instability when oc' ing
but in reality i tested it with them on and seemed to work fine -
they reduce your cpu heat and power consumption and possibly extend lifetime while idling or just web browsing etc by downclocking it and reducing voltage to 0.9-1.0 volts
you can also pay with the offset voltages to get a similar scenario with your overclock... i haven't tried those yet
you see i'm also just learning and it's been some 8 months since i got this pc... just haven't put too much time in it since i'm happy with my settings

why i gave up on some of the voltage settings and just left them on auto?
well the 4.9ghz i posted earlier has all of them on auto... just cpu vcore set to 1.5
without auto i actually seemed to hit a wall and couldn't get it to run higher than 4.8..

also consider the Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 as a alternative for this gigabyte board...
should be good too - maybe even better,
the 8+2 power phase design sounds tasty because you know "more is better"
but that is not always the case with electronics and that board should be very good too

[update2] - fsb overclocking vs multiplier makes very little real world difference overall, maybe 1-2% or something like that,
i guess depends on scenario

I think I'll keep the gigabyte one, but if you really think it's better, I could go with it.
Since you started talking about voltages... http://postimg.org/image/x2obg7vwf/ That should give everything.
P.S Would you mind if I try your settings when I get the parts? I think I'm also going to keep power saving features on, because I would like to keep the life time high as possible, but if it's not stable, I'll disable them.

 

[yanis31]

well - currently i'm reading this
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=723803
mileage may vary... i'll report back

Update: so far inconclusive... didn't manage to catch a improvement on voltages like this or anything like that,
but somebody else mentioned it seemed to work more on 4 power phase analogue controller boards which are somewhat inferior to the 8phase digital design...
also it seems i haven't been 100% true with what i posted before - but honestly it's because ive been on a oc for many months and haven't got a single crash or freeze - so i kinda forgot

the 1.418 volt settings work only for 4.4 ghz ... for 4.5 i have to push it to 1.44 or 1.45 even...
the reality is it needs about 1.5 volts under prime 95 to pass @ 4.5ghz and about 1.52-1.53v for higher clocks (which is what that LLC extreme setting does)
so i can live with lower idle voltages which is not bad at all / just on the overclockers forum i read that in the end for both this and the gigabyte 990fx boards most people settle for "medium" LLC setting which has a little vdroop in my case ... around 0.02. - 0.03v under prime95... probably because of less voltage fluctuation - however it seems "extreme" doesn't bother my oc.
i think i was able to work 4.5ghz with this setting in winter ... now when the air is hotter and temps higher it wants a lil more voltage to keep it 100% stable @ 4.5

when are you ordering the board?
i think i will throw up a seperate detailed thread with the UD3P v.s. EVO R2.0 in the upcoming days
and go over the voltages on each LLC setting and the lack of spread spectrum disable and details like that
so users of the asus board can comment in details how it works in comparison and then you can decide for youself which seems better...

 

[theAngeLs]

well - currently i'm reading this
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=723803
mileage may vary... i'll report back

Update: so far inconclusive... didn't manage to catch a improvement on voltages like this or anything like that,
but somebody else mentioned it seemed to work more on 4 power phase analogue controller boards which are somewhat inferior to the 8phase digital design...
also it seems i haven't been 100% true with what i posted before - but honestly it's because ive been on a oc for many months and haven't got a single crash or freeze - so i kinda forgot

the 1.418 volt settings work only for 4.4 ghz ... for 4.5 i have to push it to 1.44 or 1.45 even...
the reality is it needs about 1.5 volts under prime 95 to pass @ 4.5ghz and about 1.52-1.53v for higher clocks (which is what that LLC extreme setting does)
so i can live with lower idle voltages which is not bad at all / just on the overclockers forum i read that in the end for both this and the gigabyte 990fx boards most people settle for "medium" LLC setting which has a little vdroop in my case ... around 0.02. - 0.03v under prime95... probably because of less voltage fluctuation - however it seems "extreme" doesn't bother my oc.
i think i was able to work 4.5ghz with this setting in winter ... now when the air is hotter and temps higher it wants a lil more voltage to keep it 100% stable @ 4.5

when are you ordering the board?
i think i will throw up a seperate detailed thread with the UD3P v.s. EVO R2.0 in the upcoming days
and go over the voltages on each LLC setting and the lack of spread spectrum disable and details like that
so users of the asus board can comment in details how it works in comparison and then you can decide for youself which seems better...

Well, I'm going to order everything in probably 1 - 2 weeks (depending when the guy calls me for the job.) I need to earn that 30€ and then I'll take money from my bank account. He said that probably in the beginning of this month.
If you want to make the thread for everyone, then go for it. I might get the EVO R2.0 (MAYBE), because the guy in the tutorial has the same cooler, cpu and motherboard.
UPDATE: It's nice to see JayzTwoCents (pretty cool guy btw, I have knew about his channel before through Barnacles Nerdgasm.) preferring Hyper 212 EVO cooler on his budget AMD A10 7850k APU build. He said he will overclock it to 4,5GHz. At least now It's 100% sure Hyper 212 EVO can handle around 4,5GHz, I don't think I'm going to change the cooler. 😀

 

[theAngeLs]

well - currently i'm reading this
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=723803
mileage may vary... i'll report back

Update: so far inconclusive... didn't manage to catch a improvement on voltages like this or anything like that,
but somebody else mentioned it seemed to work more on 4 power phase analogue controller boards which are somewhat inferior to the 8phase digital design...
also it seems i haven't been 100% true with what i posted before - but honestly it's because ive been on a oc for many months and haven't got a single crash or freeze - so i kinda forgot

the 1.418 volt settings work only for 4.4 ghz ... for 4.5 i have to push it to 1.44 or 1.45 even...
the reality is it needs about 1.5 volts under prime 95 to pass @ 4.5ghz and about 1.52-1.53v for higher clocks (which is what that LLC extreme setting does)
so i can live with lower idle voltages which is not bad at all / just on the overclockers forum i read that in the end for both this and the gigabyte 990fx boards most people settle for "medium" LLC setting which has a little vdroop in my case ... around 0.02. - 0.03v under prime95... probably because of less voltage fluctuation - however it seems "extreme" doesn't bother my oc.
i think i was able to work 4.5ghz with this setting in winter ... now when the air is hotter and temps higher it wants a lil more voltage to keep it 100% stable @ 4.5

when are you ordering the board?
i think i will throw up a seperate detailed thread with the UD3P v.s. EVO R2.0 in the upcoming days
and go over the voltages on each LLC setting and the lack of spread spectrum disable and details like that
so users of the asus board can comment in details how it works in comparison and then you can decide for youself which seems better...

I decided to google that Fractal Design power supply, and a guy broke 2 Intel i5s with it. He returned it and the tech guy said someone else had this problem too, so that's a big NO to that power supply. People in the post section agree that the power supply is bad.
UPDATE: I'm going with the Seasonic 620W S12II-620 ATX, and power supply experts said it's a decent PSU and good for overclocking.

 

[yanis31]

interesting.. ill read some reviews... i would think that fractal design would put quality forward in their products...
but then again it is manufactured by some other company under contract - maybe they screwed up
also i was going to recommend cooler master "v" series until i realised they're quite expensive... (they are manufactured by seasonic)
the cheap CM psu's ... not that great

 

[theAngeLs]

Alright, thanks everyone for answers and help. I appreciate everyones help, but yanis31 helped me out the most.