PSU help :(

[Todd11es]

Hey guys. I've come to a complication with my PSU. I'm torn between an 860w and a 1200w.

First off, here's my build: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/3pKR4

I don't plan to SLI, rather, just keep the one 780ti and I'll for sure over clock my CPU moderately-heavily.

Both PSU's are pretty much the same price, so that isn't an issue here. I'd like overhead room, for when I decide to add more parts.

If you guys could give me your knowledge on either of these PSU's, that'd be sweet. The links for both are down below.

In addition, constructive criticism on my build is welcome and encouraged

Here's the 1200w PSU:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008Q7HUR0?qid=1397124532&sr=8-1&vs=1

Here's the 860w PSU:
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-ax860i

Thanks guys, and take care.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

If you don't plan to SLI, there's no point in anything above 600W.

I wouldn't go for AX; there's no money saved in going for platinum over a bronze, given the pricier PSU. And the intelligent half is absolutely uselessly calibrated.

The rest of your build is pretty similar; there's a lot of overkill.

 

[maurelie]

Hi,
Even this PSU will be more than enough for your system and also for future upgrades, except SLI.

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-ssr750rm

Will this system be used for gaming only?

 

[Someone Somewhere]

I would look at this (assuming you have a reason for the i7/16GiB/Win7Pro other than gaming):
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($389.00 @ PCCaseGear)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($189.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($149.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) ($519.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) ($519.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($179.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($185.00 @ CPL Online)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($21.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($165.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Keyboard: Razer DeathStalker Wired Gaming Keyboard ($79.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse ($50.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2860.00
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-11 18:03 EST+1000)

Reasoning:

Closed loop coolers like the H100i tend to be overpriced and loud compared to a good air cooler. The NH-D14 should be just as good and much quieter and cheaper.

ROG boards are expensive and you won't ever use all the features. A cheaper board will OC just as well, unless you've got really serious cooling.

Faster/Cheaper RAM.

The M500 is still a very fast drive, and much cheaper.

2x290s are much faster, and you've got spare budget from trimming other stuff. Could even go for a pair of 780s, or 290Xs.

As above, there's no point in getting a very high efficiency PSU. They cost a lot more, but don't save enough power to offset that cost.

Soundcards tend to be unnecessary; most boards have pretty decent onboard audio.

 

[Todd11es]

What do you mean? Why with all the other parts?

 

[Someone Somewhere]

See the stuff at the bottom?

That's an explanation for why I changed stuff.

 

[maurelie]

I would look at this (assuming you have a reason for the i7/16GiB/Win7Pro other than gaming):
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($389.00 @ PCCaseGear)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($189.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($149.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) ($519.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) ($519.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($179.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($185.00 @ CPL Online)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($21.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($165.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Keyboard: Razer DeathStalker Wired Gaming Keyboard ($79.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse ($50.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2860.00
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-11 18:03 EST+1000)

Reasoning:

Closed loop coolers like the H100i tend to be overpriced and loud compared to a good air cooler. The NH-D14 should be just as good and much quieter and cheaper.

ROG boards are expensive and you won't ever use all the features. A cheaper board will OC just as well, unless you've got really serious cooling.

Faster/Cheaper RAM.

The M500 is still a very fast drive, and much cheaper.

2x290s are much faster, and you've got spare budget from trimming other stuff. Could even go for a pair of 780s, or 290Xs.

As above, there's no point in getting a very high efficiency PSU. They cost a lot more, but don't save enough power to offset that cost.

Soundcards tend to be unnecessary; most boards have pretty decent onboard audio.

I believe D3H supports up to 1600Mhz RAM speeds

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Haswell doesn't officially 'support' more than 1600 - you need to use XMP on all boards.

From GB's site:

Support for DDR3 3000(O.C.) / 2933(O.C.) / 2800(O.C.) / 2666(O.C.) / 2600(O.C.) / 2500(O.C.) / 2400(O.C.) / 2200(O.C.) / 2133(O.C.) / 2000(O.C.) / 1866(O.C.) / 1800(O.C.) / 1600 / 1333 MHz memory modules

 

[Todd11es]

You're changing all the parts based on price, when you can have much more reliable products that will last a fair while longer, thus somewhat future proofing the PC.

Why go with two 780's when you can just go with a 780ti.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Because two 780s are way faster than a 780Ti? Like, another 50% or more?

Who said your picks were more reliable? Source?

CLLCs have huge numbers of failure points and are vastly unreliable. I'm also very very skeptical of the claims that RoG boards are more reliable, and efficiency is no basis for longevity - see Corsair's RM (80Plus Gold) series with low-quality caps.

 

[Todd11es]

Dude, I don't even know what you mean by CLLCs. Can you dumb your whole point down a little? I see your point in doing a dual SLI with two 780's, but I like everything else.

 

[Todd11es]

Also, I would go for the 780Ti. One card, almost as strong as 770's SLI. Less issues and games will utilize the whole card.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

CLLC = Closed Loop Liquid Cooler. E.g. the Corsair H110i.

Almost as strong as 770 SLI. 780 SLI will blow it out of the water.

SLI is better than it used to be, and the 780 and 780Ti are close enough that even games which don't handle SLI well will perform much the same.

 

[Todd11es]

So what do you suggest as my CPU cooler?

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Noctua NH-D14. Very quiet, very effective, and about half the cost.

 

[Todd11es]

Yes, but would it suit my build? I mean, would it keep temps down in relation to my case etc.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Perfectly fine.

 

[Todd11es]

Just need to borrow your expertise one more time. Should I replace the stock fans that come with my case? If so, with what fans? I'm worried about cooling.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

They should be fine.