PSU tier list 2.0

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That doesn't mean it's not an issue. There are tons of people on this forum who want to know about their older power supply, but it's not in the tier list. Or people who just happen to have a discontinued PSU, so if we want to look up quickly the general quality, can't do so and need to go Internet digging instead. We could easily have some form of marking if an item is discontinued, such as changing the color of efficiency to red.
 
Yes, this tier list is an independent project, not something officially sanctioned or supported by TH. It's a convenience and a privilige, not a right or something that's required to live up to anybody's particular expectations. As we've said in the past, if you feel you can do a better job, have the time to invest in it and don't mind the fact that no matter how much energy you invest in making it as complete and accurate as possible, somebody is still going to find fault with it and there will always be somebody crying that their model isn't on there.

If there's a model that's not on there it's probably, almost certainly, because it's either discontinued, has no reliable reviews or is trash and not worth bothering with.
 
Well, in that regard, you're preaching to the choir. Many of us have asked before that the discontinued models be left on there and I've even asked for a list of all discontinued models that were there previously but were removed so I could create a discontinued models tier list but Dottorent has either not had time to get that stuff to me or decided he just didn't feel the need to do so, which is his prerogative since he put all the work in to create the previous lists in the first place.
 
Unless I'm missing something, it honestly shouldn't be hard at all. Just compare neweggs list with DT's. The ones missing from DT's that are on neweggs are the discontinued, already classed, reviewed etc. The only discrepancies would be if a unit was moved in tier prior to being removed from the list. In that case, a quick review of opinion might be in order, and as the new author of the list, you'd have final say where the unit would stand. Of course, it would have to be an unbiased decision, you slap the older TR2's as Tier 1,you'll loose any respect for the new list.
 
The fact that CX units are priced so closely to same-wattage Seasonics while having incredibly inferior components is intriguing.

I wonder how much money corsair execs are bathing in right now...
 
Budget seems to be an issue for many, so prices on components are always scrutinized, and normal sales can make a huge change in what's actually bought. When newegg puts the XFX 550w's on sale for $25 or the Evga B2 750 for less than $50 it's extremely hard to recommend anything else. The fact that at this time CX units are basically equivalent in price to Seasonic units just means Corsair's gearing up for something and needs capital for offsets and is relying on brand recognition for sales at a higher price than its normal sales offerings. What I am failing to grasp is the concept that ppl will happily drop an extra $100 on an i7 vrs a i5 and an extra $100 for a gtx970 vrs a gtx960, yet balk completely about spending an extra $20 on a quality psu vrs a similar wattage piece of junk. It must be the mindset that because a psu has nothing to do with fps, the psu is unimportant. Dunno.
 
I'm trying to understand how capacitors work. Anyone want to lend me a hand? Once again I'm learning from who I think knows most about this stuff, William Beaty. http://amasci.com/emotor/cap1.html The first thing he says is:

I have beefs with textbook explanations of capacitors too. "Capacitors store charge." No! Flat out wrong! Wait and hear me out, I'm not insane.

When we "charge" a conventional metal-plate capacitor, the power supply pushes electrons into one plate, and the fields from these extra electrons reach across the gap between the plates, forcing an equal number of electrons to simultaneously flow out of the other plate and into the power supply. This creates opposite areas of imbalanced charge: one plate has less electrons and excess protons, and the other plate has more electrons than protons. Each individual plate does store charge.

However, if we consider the capacitor as a whole, no electrons have been put into the capacitor. None have been removed. The same number of electrons are in a "charged" capacitor as in a capacitor which has been totally "discharged."

Similar trouble is caused when we say that we "charge" a battery. We charge a battery with some energy in the form of stored chemical fuel, but we pump electric charge through the battery and none of it builds up inside. Fuel-chemicals build up inside. Charge doesn't.
Click to expand...
So that was a nice misconception that is now cleared up. Basically, he uses water as an analogy.
wtrcap1.gif


Basically, how do these things work? Sometimes it's a bit difficult understanding what he is trying to say.
But the current is directed through the capacitor, and the incoming electrons force other electrons to leave at the same time.

Here's yet another way to visualize it. Whenever we "charge" a capacitor, the path for current is through the capacitor and back out again. The extra electrons on one plate force electrons to leave the other plate, and vice versa.
Click to expand...
But what does that ^^ accomplish is what I'm trying to say?
 
Unfortunately, 90% of people think it's perfectly fine to spend 600 dollars on a graphics card, another 400 dollars on a CPU and then throw a tantrum if you tell them they need something more than a 50 dollar power supply. I have a word for them. Idiots.
 
Capstone G is so-so. Voltage regulation and ripple suppression are okay by today's standards when compared to high-end units that get 0.3% regulation and under 20mv on all rails. but all is within spec. It does have Unicon capacitors which OklahomaWolf says is completely unknown to him, so that's another problem, and it's an electrolytic. Enesol polymers are no concern, but the Unicon is.
 


I think you're going off the review for the unit he linked to, which is not the same as the model he linked to on PCPartpicker, however, even the techpowerup review for the 1000w G Capstone says:

Voltage regulation could be tighter
I expected a little higher overall efficiency, and the 5VSB rail is inefficient as well
No MOV in the transient filtering stage
Noisy operation overall
Less than 16 ms hold-up time


All of which indicates a less than great unit, but there's clearly worse choices out there. For my money, I'd go with this, IF you actually need a 1000w unit, which is unlikely unless you're running a high end crossfire configuration:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($136.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $136.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-24 21:18 EST-0500

 


Oops, my mistake. MOVs are tricky anyway. A lot of PSUs these days for instance doesn't even use one, they just rely on active PFC (like Superflower does frequently, though I'm not so sure about this practice). Then there are TVS diode which if I'm correct serve the same purpose as a MOV.
 
Alright thanks darkbreeze and the commuity for the help, so here is the problem i am stuck in, and please don't get mad or ban me if i go a bit off topic. so i built my rig back in early 2014 almost 2 years old now and here are the specs



CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG A40 ULTIMATE 83.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: EVGA Classified EATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290X 4GB Black Edition Double Dissipation Video Card
Case: NZXT Phantom 530 (Black) ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX750m
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer
Case Fan: Noctua NF-S12B redux-700 33.5 CFM 120mm Fan
Case Fan: Noctua NF-S12B redux-700 33.5 CFM 120mm Fan
Case Accessory: NZXT Hue LED Controller
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium


so i just bought my liquid cooler and 2 noctua fans to overclock my 4770k, i haven't installed it yet, i currently use the stock cooler and have the cpu at stock and plan on overclocking as soon as the psu issue is solved, the cpu is very hot currently. i spent around $1700 on this rig and want to do some upgrades, currently many people on youtube said the cx750 was great psu and as long as i had 80+ or higher and enough watts i should be fine, so far the cx750 is holding up just fine except on day in October 2014 it made a weird buzz noise not coil wine, but just a buzz, still doing it, i didn't know too much about psu's and didn't care too much, stupid me. until one day on overclock.net i saw a post made by a guy named shilka talking about why you should not buy a cx, i feel afraid, so i unplugged the power connectors from the xfx 290x and run the pc off the igpu, and i don't even game. i plan on adding a another gpu for crossfire like a 390 or 390x, thats why i want 1000w+ and maybe another hdd for more storage. i have only $150 left to spend for the psu, which would work good for this build, here are the choices i have in mind. which one would be the best for this build or if you have better choices please let me know

1. antec high current gamer 900w, this psu got a fail from hardocp but good review from tomshardware why????

2. evga 1000g

3. xfx pro 1050w

4. silverstone strider plus 1000w 80+ silver

i do have more questions but i just wants to say thanks for now
 
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