[SOLVED] PSU with multiple weak 12V rails + 1 big single-connector boi (RTX 2060) = shutdown festival?

sonic.millenium

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Dec 12, 2018
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Hi guys and gals,

I've run into a dilemma advising on a PSU for someone's build. The guy is from Russia, and you've got to understand that we're choosing from the bottom of the bin. Forget your fancy tier lists, 9999W 80- Unobtainium Seasonics, etc. The way I see it, the bare minimum needed here is active PFC, at least a basic set of working protections, some amperage headroom and at least passable regulation according to test results - within ATX spec, that is (we don't want dead HDDs and GPUs having a headache haha).

Anyway, the starting selection (what they chose) is an FSP PNR-I 600W (gasp!).
The first step I would suggest (but haven't just yet) is to one-up this to a regular PNR 600W, for it's believed to be a safe minimum for non-stressful and non-sparky PC usage. And the PNR-I is a further skimped down version of that pretty basic platform. There have been some revisions to both models, but the current unanimous opinion is that PNR > PNR-I.
Now, you've got to remember that both these PSUs are around the 3.5K RUB mark, and the build is within a 60K RUB budget (from what I can see) and has to include a Palit RTX 2060 with one connector. I entered the specs into Outervision and it claims that we need 25 amps on the 12V. But take a look at these labels:
https://m.nix.ru/scripts/mobile_gallery.html?good_id=217268#&gid=1&pid=2250

I see a huge lot of pretty weak 12V rails, all against our intended single PCIE-connector load. Considering the reviews, none of the two PSUs is going to blow up easily. But should we expect annoying repetitive shutdowns when protections kick in? Or should it barely suffice? (I do recall that 12V isn't limited to the GPU, but just for a peace of mind...)
I also tried optimising the build for that person, but it's only possible to free up several hundred RUB without sacrificing the intended performance (and trust me, I know some performance > no performance due to a borked PSU, but these options appear to have working OPP, UVP and OVP, not sure about OCP tho, so I'd expect the 2nd FSP (non-I) to be moreless safe :sweatsmile:).

An alternative I'd also suggest, but won't anymore, for one rather prominent reviewer of ours, having close ties with repair guys from Russia, claims the manufacturer has started cheapening out on the components, is the following:
https://www.e-katalog.ru/HIPRO-HPA-600W.htm
(Hipro = Chicony if I remember correctly)

And moving up the food chain a bit, we have these powerful-rail options:
https://www.e-katalog.ru/CHIEFTEC-BDF-500S.htm
(review here: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https://ru.gecid.com/power/chieftec_proton_bdf-500s/
It appears to be an all-Teapo CWT affair with DC-DC on the minors and a bunch of protections, some of which fellow budget Seasonics could only dream about. And AFAIK there hasn't been any bait-and-switch yet when it comes to Protons)

or the favourite pet of Stefan Payne (no offence 😄):
https://www.e-katalog.ru/BE-QUIET-SYSTEM-POWER-9-500W.htm
which is also limited to 24A on 12V1, that's quite close... I think reviews are abundant for these, no matter in English, German or Russian.

For reference, the BOTL Seasonics (Bronze OEMs and S12II), and everything else moreless "conventional" to a stateside reader's eye, start(s) at ~5K RUB.

Prices here for those interested. It's a web store aggregator. The city is Tiumen, surely Moscow has a wider selection but not everything can be delivered to Tiumen.
https://www.e-katalog.ru/ek-list.ph...,2563,2926,4716,7552,16133,28947&order_=price

Thx in advance :)
 
Last edited:
Solution
This is one of those threads where we'll be telling you, if you value the rest of your investments in your system, you'll understand what a quality PSU is worth in the end. I apologize for sounding rude though the bottom of the bin is the last place you're supposed to be looking at in spite of spending more than 10 times on the entire system.

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
This is one of those threads where we'll be telling you, if you value the rest of your investments in your system, you'll understand what a quality PSU is worth in the end. I apologize for sounding rude though the bottom of the bin is the last place you're supposed to be looking at in spite of spending more than 10 times on the entire system.
 
Solution

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
This is one of those threads where we'll be telling you, if you value the rest of your investments in your system, you'll understand what a quality PSU is worth in the end. I apologize for sounding rude though the bottom of the bin is the last place you're supposed to be looking at in spite of spending more than 10 times on the entire system.
 

sonic.millenium

Reputable
Dec 12, 2018
15
0
4,510
No problem and nothing rude in your answer, it's A-OK :) Thank you.
Though I'd like to ask one more time (sorry if it's a bit too obnoxious): considering the possible fact that the Chieftec Proton and the Bequiet System Power 9 are both just a grey-label Corsair CX with another sticker and without Japanese caps, are they a viable option or should we step up the budget considerably? The link's the same: https://www.e-katalog.ru/ek-list.ph...,2563,2926,4716,7552,16133,28947&order_=price

Small rant/venting out below, proceed with caution :)
As for the "quality PSU" and "worth", I wish it were just as simple as the "better = more expensive" principle :sweatsmile: I'm on a Focus+ Gold 550W in my PC, but I'm afraid it's only so thanks to a lucky chance, as the pricing is VERY wacky in my region (Lithuania), and I may only imagine what it looks like in Russia. I remember seeing EVGA G2 550s for around 85-90 Euros, then they climbed to almost 100, and Coolermaster V units crossed the 100 mark iirc, and if I'm not mistaken, the then-very-recommended FSP Hydro G units weren't even widely available here, while the first batches of the Focus appeared at the price of 90. That's what I paid for mine in Sep 2017. But then the very decent Gold grey-label Corsair TXMs showed up, and in early 2018 a TX550M could be had for 75. I didn't bite my lips for long tho because the TXM quickly rocketed to 90-95 soon after. TL;DR it's no surprise when a Tier 2 2/3 is cheaper than a Tier 3 1/4 in our region(s). Why didn't I say Tier 2 and Tier 3? 😄 Because 50% of what's on the "standard" Euro-American Tier Lists isn't even commonly sold here, and another 25% commends a hefty price premium, and as a lucky coincidence, what's left is pretty pretty affordable...
Moreover, the cheap-expensive thing is pretty relative, IMO. I understand the pricing differs between countries, b-but 3.5-4 thousand RUB is around the 50 USD mark. And it's QUITE easy to grab something very worthwhile for a lower sum than that in the U.S., mainly during a sale.
Finally, when I said "bottom of the bin", I deliberately crossed out a lot of blatant nonames, very questionable Deepcools and Chieftecs and universally hated Aerocools 😏 Thus it's not quite the bottomest of the bottoms xD

Rant over, sorry anyway :sweatsmile: And I'll definitely be looking into the build specs to try "optimise" something else. For the record, the specs are as follows: Ryzen 1600, a basic B350 mobo (Gigabyte mATX), 2 sticks of 4GB Crucial 2666, a budget SSD, a budget HDD, the Palit StormX card, a single fan, an HP monitor, and a very very budget mATX case. I am (indeed) a bit puzzled that there's only 8 gigs of RAM (dual-ch at least :D) in the build, yet it includes a whole 2060. Well, they wanted ray tracing on a budget, I guess :) Though I'm sure we could definitely choose a more "premium" PSU using the savings from watering it down to a 1660 Ti.

P.S. the smileys are all over the place lol. Long live Winblows xD
aand P.P.S. I promise I'll mark as solved if no one else kicks in ;)