question on playfiled restoration (73 Gottlieb EM)

[Grayson]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi All;

Looking for adivce on the best playfield repair process. Marvin3m site
talks about using acrylic paint to patch wear holes, then sanding
smooth. The original paint job is a silkscreen (I assume) which was
then covered with a thin layer of some kind of clear protectant. What
was the original clear protectant, and shouldn't you cover the patched
area with this before waxing?

Dave

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I believe in the Marvin3M process, you are supposed to clear coat the
playfield after sanding it smooth. I followed his process pretty
closely and I got terrific results on a pin that I've restored.

 

[Grayson]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thanx guys. I agree it looks like a laquer finish (thin and very hard).
A teardown and clear coat on the whole field is beyond what I am
willing to undertake (can't live without the machine that long!) I
just want to patch some wear spots and would like to do it in as close
a match as the original as I can. For those who do a whole clearcote
thing, I have seen comments here pro and con about polyurethane based
product. Has anyone sprayed laquer (either professional gun/compressor
or an aerosol can of autobody clear coat?) and if so what was the
result like?

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I think they were cleared the lacquer.
"Grayson" <david@graysons.ca> wrote in message
news:1121957017.721707.261330@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Hi All;
>
> Looking for adivce on the best playfield repair process. Marvin3m site
> talks about using acrylic paint to patch wear holes, then sanding
> smooth. The original paint job is a silkscreen (I assume) which was
> then covered with a thin layer of some kind of clear protectant. What
> was the original clear protectant, and shouldn't you cover the patched
> area with this before waxing?
>
> Dave
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Grayson:

You can use gloss acrylic lacquer out of a spray can to
do the entire playfield or you can just do a patch. You want
a feathered edge so you should mask off the area with paper or
cardboard that's held an inch or so above the playfield.

The new lacquer will bond with the old lacquer so the
match and adhesion will be excellent. You should
make sure that the surface is as clean as possible,
and if you have any swirl marks in the area you
are re-spraying you should use a Magic Eraser to clean
them up.

After the new lacquer is dry, you can wet sand it to level it
off and then final polish with Novus 2.

-Mark
--
http://pinballpal.com/

"Grayson" <david@graysons.ca> wrote in message
news:1121972326.448590.78650@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Thanx guys. I agree it looks like a laquer finish (thin and very hard).
> A teardown and clear coat on the whole field is beyond what I am
> willing to undertake (can't live without the machine that long!) I
> just want to patch some wear spots and would like to do it in as close
> a match as the original as I can. For those who do a whole clearcote
> thing, I have seen comments here pro and con about polyurethane based
> product. Has anyone sprayed laquer (either professional gun/compressor
> or an aerosol can of autobody clear coat?) and if so what was the
> result like?
>

 

[Grayson]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

many thanks!