Question Re-build my PC, now 'No Signal'

lmr07

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Jun 10, 2019
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(TLDR : Replaced my PC case, PSU and fans, now it will turn on but will not give a signal, stuck on RAM according to manual.)

Hey there! I've been using my desktop for a few years without much issues, i decided to replace the case, the PSU and the fans...

Except now i'm not getting a signal. It turns on, the fans spin, the lights light up... No signal.

I'm using a Asus ROG x470-f gaming motherboard, it has 4 status lights [D-RAM] [CPU][VGA][BOOT] and they should be lighting up sequentially. The D-RAM is LED is on and stays on. According to the manual that means there's a problem.

I've re-seated the RAM and swapped them around multiple times, blew air into the sockets and whatnot. I've double checked the manual for the correct placement aswell.

I've tried the old PSU, no luck.
I've tried reseating the GPU, put it in the socket below, tried the motherboard HDMI (though i can't remember that ever working), nothing.

I'm at a loss, does anyone have some tips?

MB : Asus ROG x470-f gaming
GPU : ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX2070-O8G-GAMING
CPU : AMD Ryzen 5 2600X
RAM : G.Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 16GB (2x8)
PSU : EVGA Supernova 850 G3 (OLD PSU)
PSU : MSI A850G PCIE5 (NEW PSU)
 
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(TLDR : Replaced my PC case, PSU and fans, now it will turn on but will not give a signal, stuck on RAM according to manual.)

Hey there! I've been using my desktop for a few years without much issues, i decided to replace the case, the PSU and the fans...

Except now i'm not getting a signal. It turns on, the fans spin, the lights light up... No signal.

I'm using a Asus ROG x470-f gaming motherboard, it has 4 status lights [D-RAM] [CPU][VGA][BOOT] and they should be lighting up sequentially. The D-RAM is LED is on and stays on. According to the manual that means there's a problem.

I've re-seated the RAM and swapped them around multiple times, blew air into the sockets and whatnot. I've double checked the manual for the correct placement aswell.

I've tried the old PSU, no luck.
I've tried reseating the GPU, put it in the socket below, tried the motherboard HDMI (though i can't remember that ever working), nothing.

I'm at a loss, does anyone have some tips?

MB : Asus ROG x470-f gaming
GPU : ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX2070-O8G-GAMING
CPU : AMD Ryzen 5 2600X
RAM : G.Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 16GB (2x8)
PSU : EVGA Supernova 850 G3 (OLD PSU)
PSU : MSIA850G PCIE5 (NEW PSU)
Did you use the new PSU cables that came with the MSI PSU? These PSU cables are not interchangeable between brand and often even model within the same brand.
 
Did you use the new PSU cables that came with the MSI PSU? These PSU cables are not interchangeable between brand and often even model within the same brand.
Yes i'm using the cables provided, the cables i had didn't fit the new PSU.

Even with the old PSU and cables (known to work) it doesn't give me a signal.
 
Yes i'm using the cables provided, the cables i had didn't fit the new PSU.

Even with the old PSU and cables (known to work) it doesn't give me a signal.
I was just making sure you did not fry the PC with the old cables used with the new PSU. That would have explained the old, known to work PSU, no longer booting.

Have you tried breadboarding the system? This would mean building the PC outside of the case after uninstalling everything that is unnecessary such as any extraneous drives, add in cards, USB devices, secondary monitors, ARGB controllers, fan controllers, et cetera. I would also triple check than any cables you are using from the PSU are the ones that came with that particular PSU.

Does the motherboard you have use all the standard case mounts that came with the case? Sometimes an extra case mount located underneath the motherboard where there is no through hole can cause a short, or gouge/crack the PCB if installed.

Have you tried cleaning out the RAM slots with compressed air or a cordless air duster?

When you were manipulating the motherboard out of the old case and into the new one did you hold onto the CPU cooler to maneuver the motherboard? This can place undo tension and force onto the CPU socket, CPU, and CPU socket pins. Make want to check if the CPU and its pins are all perfectly aligned. Check for any cracks around the CPU cooler mount holes from stress.

If there is nothing physically wrong with the board or the parts like obvious cracks, gouges, et cetera, then damage may have been done electrically causing some short. Usually a motherboard or the RAM are most sensitive to such happenings when doing any hardware changes. If you have another kit of RAM you an test with I would start there. If that does not work then I would assume something went wrong with the motherboard. All you can really try would be to clear CMOS and hope for the best. If that does not work, testing with a known good motherboard would be next.
 
I was just making sure you did not fry the PC with the old cables used with the new PSU. That would have explained the old, known to work PSU, no longer booting.

Have you tried breadboarding the system? This would mean building the PC outside of the case after uninstalling everything that is unnecessary such as any extraneous drives, add in cards, USB devices, secondary monitors, ARGB controllers, fan controllers, et cetera. I would also triple check than any cables you are using from the PSU are the ones that came with that particular PSU.

Does the motherboard you have use all the standard case mounts that came with the case? Sometimes an extra case mount located underneath the motherboard where there is no through hole can cause a short, or gouge/crack the PCB if installed.

Have you tried cleaning out the RAM slots with compressed air or a cordless air duster?

When you were manipulating the motherboard out of the old case and into the new one did you hold onto the CPU cooler to maneuver the motherboard? This can place undo tension and force onto the CPU socket, CPU, and CPU socket pins. Make want to check if the CPU and its pins are all perfectly aligned. Check for any cracks around the CPU cooler mount holes from stress.

If there is nothing physically wrong with the board or the parts like obvious cracks, gouges, et cetera, then damage may have been done electrically causing some short. Usually a motherboard or the RAM are most sensitive to such happenings when doing any hardware changes. If you have another kit of RAM you an test with I would start there. If that does not work then I would assume something went wrong with the motherboard. All you can really try would be to clear CMOS and hope for the best. If that does not work, testing with a known good motherboard would be next.
I just tried the breadboard setup outside of the case with only the bare essentials (MB, CPU, GPU, RAM) and the old PSU. I've also checked and re-seated the CPU. Nothing.
(I also used air to blow the ports)

Troubleshooting this is a nightmare, i don't have anything to go on. Do i just start buying new components until i find the faulty one?

To be frank, the GPU might be fcked. I had trouble removing it the first time, it got stuck and i had to wiggle it quite a bit to get it out, there's no visible damage though.
Also i accidentally once used a ''CPU'' cable instead of a ''PCIE'' cable from GPU to the PSU, not sure how bad that is.

Still, the Motherboard has these status lights that keep bothering me, since it's still stuck on [D-RAM]...

I will try clearing CMOS next.
 
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I just tried the breadboard setup outside of the case with only the bare essentials (MB, CPU, GPU, RAM) and the old PSU. I've also checked and re-seated the CPU. Nothing.
(I also used air to blow the ports)

Troubleshooting this is a nightmare, i don't have anything to go on. Do i just start buying new components until i find the faulty one?

To be frank, the GPU might be fcked. I had trouble removing it the first time, it got stuck and i had to wiggle it quite a bit to get it out, there's no visible damage though.
Also i accidentally once used a ''CPU'' cable instead of a ''PCIE'' cable from GPU to the PSU, not sure how bad that is.

Still, the Motherboard has these status lights that keep bothering me, since it's still stuck on [D-RAM]...

I will try clearing CMOS next.
Forcing an EPS 4+4 into a 6+2 PCIe port and then turning it on is really bad. That could explain everything. That could have killed everything, but you would have to test components individually with known good components. Let me know if you want to go down the rabbit hole of how and what to test first. Easiest thing to do would be to bring it to a local repair shop if you don't want to bother with it, but that can be expensive. Next easiest thing would be to try and save any data on the PC's drives by connecting them to another computer. If those are fried then things are not looking good for the rest of the parts. let me know what you are willing to do and we can advise from there.
 
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Forcing an EPS 4+4 into a 6+2 PCIe port and then turning it on is really bad. That could explain everything. That could have killed everything, but you would have to test components individually with know good components. Let me know if you want to go down the rabbit hole of how and what to test first. Easiest thing to do would be to bring it to a local repair shop if you don't want to bother with it, but that can be expensive. Next easiest thing would be to try and save any data on the PC's drives by connecting them to another computer. If those are fried then things are not looking good for the rest of the parts. let me know what you are willing to do and we can advise from there.
I didn't force it, it fit perfectly. I only later saw it labeled as "CPU", must have grabbed the wrong one at some point.

Guess i'll bring it in for repair, too much guess work without spare parts.