[SOLVED] Replacing my air CPU cooler for i9-10900k with a water one - any good recommendations? Is it worth it considering my current cooler?

[Supertroop1501]

My specs related to the required cooler support:
PC case - Zalman Z3 Plus
Motherboard: TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS (WI-FI)
CPU - Intel Core i9-10900K

After solving my other problems from other thread (the other thread), my CPU tends to overheat to quite high temperatures up to 100°C if long-term usage is ~40% and more. So I am thinking about replacing my current (air) cooler SCYTHE Mugen 5 Rev. B so my power hungry i9-10900K can avoid overheating.

My current (air) cooler: SCYTHE Mugen 5 Rev. B
Fan - 300-1200 RPM
Noise - up to 24.9 dB
Airflow - 51.17 CFM (86.94 m3/h)
Number of heatpipes - 6×

I am deciding between these 2 water coolers:

ROG Strix LC II 120 ARGB
Fan - 800-2500 RPM
Pump - 800-2800 RPM
Airflow - 80.95 CFM (137.54 m3/h)
Noise - up to 37.6 dB
Radiator width - 150 mm (15 cm)
Radiator depth - 122 mm (12.2 cm)
Radiator height - 27 mm (2.7 cm)
Hose length - 380 mm

ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 120
Fan - 200-1800 RPM
Pump - 800-2000 RPM
Airflow - 56.3 CFM (95.66 m3/h)
Noise - up to 24.5 dB
Radiator width - 157 mm (15.7 cm)
Radiator depth - 120 mm (12 cm)
Radiator height - 38 mm (3.8 cm)
Hose length - 350 mm

Both are 1x120mm fan so I could replace the rear fan of my PC case Zalman Z3 Plus and 1200 socket for my CPU i9-10900K , so both considered coolers should be compatible. I guess there is no way to use any water coolers with 2x fans in my PC case, but I am not sure. If it supported 2x120 fans, then I would ofc buy that but from what I learned so far, I guess it is not possible. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

Which one would you recommend? Or... would you recommend any of them at all? Will there be difference for the better comparing to cooling performance of my current air cooler?

Or would you recommend some better air cooler?

I don't care about RGB lightning, only about functionality (cooling performance and noise) - but I assume the ROG Strix is far better than the Arctic anyway? And if so, is it also better than the SCYTHE air cooler I currently have? Would it be worth it in terms of better cooling performance (if any)?

Thanks for the tips in advance!

 

[Supertroop1501]

How much budget limited? You cannot spend say 75?

I would lower expectations on adding a second fan, but if you cannot spend 75 or more, that may be your only choice. Expect 2 to 4 degrees improvement. Would that little improvement relieve your worry?

I could go up to 150, at the very top 200€ - for both the case and the cooler combined + combined with the fact that I will have to pay someone to dissassemble and assemble in the new case again.

I by myself am able to replace RAMs, GPU or PSU. But when it comes to plugging everything out and putting out whole motherboard, I am nervous just due that thought already... and most importantly - putting all of it back together is something I fear about xD .

How bad is the airflow in current case? I know nothing about it.

Adding a significantly better cooler may be impossible due to height limitations or foolish due to its mediocre or worse airflow.

If your second fan idea fails, all available remaining choices (new case, new cooler, or both) would be in the $75 and up area.

If I had to choose between only a new case or only a new cooler, I'd probably vote for new case unless you know the current case has better than average airflow.

I'd normally lean toward the Noctua DL15 because it is excellent and will fit...BUT your case airflow may be so poor as to minimize its advantages.

About the airflow - here are some pictures of how it looks inside the case (I apologize for a bit of motion blur, but I guess it is possible enough to see). A lot of cables under the GPU, but the CPU has pretty free space around it.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachme...4/1018483132929941534/IMG_20220911_131759.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachme...4/1018483135123570718/IMG_20220911_131807.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachme...4/1018483134586691624/IMG_20220911_131813.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachme...4/1018483134104338443/IMG_20220911_131825.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachme...4/1018483133684912239/IMG_20220911_131833.jpg

Another possible choice: don't run Cinebench R23. What has it ever done for you other than cause anxiety?

It showed me that if by any chance I would leave the PC unattended and something would happen with the CPU to get to higher usages, it could burn out both my CPU and MB without me knowing what happened at all.

 

[Supertroop1501]

It fits 160mm coolers.

For my Zalman Z3 Plus? How do you know? By the question I don't mean that I don't believe you, I just would like to know if there is any official information you found. Would be good for me to bookmark it.

I was measuring it myself measuring tape in the case and it may be true, but barely - I gues it would be very close. So if you are 100% sure about this by any chance, pls confirm.

So I'd recommend a nh-d14 as probably the best fit.

I don't think it is possible to buy it anymore - everywhere I looked the shops say "Not available, Discontinued".

 

[Supertroop1501]

That Zalman wasn't exactly a bad case 9 years ago when it was new, but it has major design flaws that can't be compensated for. Such as irregular spacing of the top fan mounts accepting a 120mm cooler, but prohibiting fastening a 240mm. You can put a 240mm up top, it'll physically fit, but only be able to mount it by one fan, 4 screws on 1 side.

I guess I should have asked here app. a year ago, before I bought it. It seems I would have avoided a lot of problems. Thanks to you guys, in the future I will be wiser about this.

 

[Aeacus]

About the airflow - here are some pictures of how it looks inside the case (I apologize for a bit of motion blur, but I guess it is possible enough to see). A lot of cables under the GPU, but the CPU has pretty free space around it.

Huge ratsnest of cables - no wonder why you have thermal issues.

For proper cable management + ample room around CPU cooler, take a look of this:

See any difference?

That above, is my Skylake build (full specs with more pics in my sig). And if you'd buy yourself bigger PC case (mine is full-tower ATX Corsair 760T V2 Black), you can have the same.

 

[Supertroop1501]

Huge ratsnest of cables - no wonder why you have thermal issues.

For proper cable management + ample room around CPU cooler, take a look of this:

See any difference?

That above, is my Skylake build (full specs with more pics in my sig). And if you'd buy yourself bigger PC case (mine is full-tower ATX Corsair 760T V2 Black), you can have the same.

How the hell

 

[Supertroop1501]

Huge ratsnest of cables - no wonder why you have thermal issues.

For proper cable management + ample room around CPU cooler, take a look of this:

See any difference?

That above, is my Skylake build (full specs with more pics in my sig). And if you'd buy yourself bigger PC case (mine is full-tower ATX Corsair 760T V2 Black), you can have the same.

So then the case is the problem for sure 😲... is too small. When I see how much room you have in there comparing to myself ...

 

[Aeacus]

That's a biggest tower, right? ... Or is it?

Naah, mine isn't "that" big. It's standard full-tower ATX PC case.

But there are bigger PC cases than mine, namely super-tower ATX, like Corsair 1000D,
specs: https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categ...Series-1000D-Super-Tower-Case/p/CC-9011148-WW

Or Thermaltake Core X71,
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/core-x71.html

Going even bigger, means you need wheels under the PC case to move it around, like Thermaltake Core W200,
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/core-w200.html

When I see how much room you have in there comparing to myself ...

Told ya. (Way back in my 1st reply though.)

 

[Karadjgne]

For my Zalman Z3 Plus? How do you know? By the question I don't mean that I don't believe you, I just would like to know if there is any official information you found. Would be good for me to bookmark it.

I was measuring it myself measuring tape in the case and it may be true, but barely - I gues it would be very close. So if you are 100% sure about this by any chance, pls confirm.


I don't think it is possible to buy it anymore - everywhere I looked the shops say "Not available, Discontinued".

I looked online. Read posts of exactly which coolers ppl were using, so thereby actually fit. Several posts of ppl using a D14, or Hyper212, which barely fit, maybe 1-2mm gap. The D14 and Hyper212 are 160mm tall coolers. Also read reviews and teardowns from more reputable sources, which explain about the fan spacing etc on the top not being standard.

Case manufactures will often state maximum cpu clearance of say 155mm, but that's because of different panels, like glass or metal, which actually have different clearances, metal might be 160mm and glass 157mm, but to be safe the case might say 155mm to account for slight warping of side panels or flex if ppl pick the pc up. Corsair did that once with a case, cooler clearance of 130mm but plenty of ppl used a hyper212 at 160mm tall, they just didn't use the 25mm side vent fan which Corsair included in the measurement. Had @ 1mm of space left as technically a hyper212 is 158.9mm tall.

I had a CoolerMaster case which claimed 160mm and a hyper212 in it which hit the inside of the panel, enough to just barely scratch it. Took the panel off, stuck it on my knees, and gave it a push on the scratches, warped the side panel out in the center a couple of mm. Didn't touch the cooler after that. Very hard to see a 2mm warp inwards on a big metal side panel, very easy to warp it the other direction, outwards.

Here's the thing. Ppl do not think outside the box. Literally. One look at that case and the design and spacing of the fan mounts on top, and claim you cannot use a 240mm AIO there. That's wrong. It'll absolutely mount a 240mm there with ease. All it requires is 2x holes drilled by the owner and not using the factory holes for the front most fan, just the 4x for the rear most fan. The 2 holes drilled will be at the very front, just takes exact measurements from the radiator spacing. That puts 6x screws holding the radiator up, which is absolutely fine.

My case is literally ¼ the internal volume of that Z3 plus, yet I have a full custom loop liquid cooling and 2x 240mm radiators in it. Which is supposedly not possible. When I say there's several components with 1-2mm of clearance, I say it Is possible, just not in the stock configuration, using standard methodology. I used 15mm thick fans instead of standard 25mm thick fans etc.

A NH-D14 fits in your case. Doubt you'll find a new one, so you'd need to look at used sales etc, which is often cheaper anyway.

 

[Supertroop1501]

I looked online. Read posts of exactly which coolers ppl were using, so thereby actually fit. Several posts of ppl using a D14, or Hyper212, which barely fit, maybe 1-2mm gap. The D14 and Hyper212 are 160mm tall coolers. Also read reviews and teardowns from more reputable sources, which explain about the fan spacing etc on the top not being standard.

Case manufactures will often state maximum cpu clearance of say 155mm, but that's because of different panels, like glass or metal, which actually have different clearances, metal might be 160mm and glass 157mm, but to be safe the case might say 155mm to account for slight warping of side panels or flex if ppl pick the pc up. Corsair did that once with a case, cooler clearance of 130mm but plenty of ppl used a hyper212 at 160mm tall, they just didn't use the 25mm side vent fan which Corsair included in the measurement. Had @ 1mm of space left as technically a hyper212 is 158.9mm tall.

I had a CoolerMaster case which claimed 160mm and a hyper212 in it which hit the inside of the panel, enough to just barely scratch it. Took the panel off, stuck it on my knees, and gave it a push on the scratches, warped the side panel out in the center a couple of mm. Didn't touch the cooler after that. Very hard to see a 2mm warp inwards on a big metal side panel, very easy to warp it the other direction, outwards.

Here's the thing. Ppl do not think outside the box. Literally. One look at that case and the design and spacing of the fan mounts on top, and claim you cannot use a 240mm AIO there. That's wrong. It'll absolutely mount a 240mm there with ease. All it requires is 2x holes drilled by the owner and not using the factory holes for the front most fan, just the 4x for the rear most fan. The 2 holes drilled will be at the very front, just takes exact measurements from the radiator spacing. That puts 6x screws holding the radiator up, which is absolutely fine.

My case is literally ¼ the internal volume of that Z3 plus, yet I have a full custom loop liquid cooling and 2x 240mm radiators in it. Which is supposedly not possible. When I say there's several components with 1-2mm of clearance, I say it Is possible, just not in the stock configuration, using standard methodology. I used 15mm thick fans instead of standard 25mm thick fans etc.

A NH-D14 fits in your case. Doubt you'll find a new one, so you'd need to look at used sales etc, which is often cheaper anyway.

Sorry for a repeated question, but but I am a bit confused of your message - would it fit my case without the need of drilling custom holes into it? Because that is definitelly something I don't intend to do. I usually f??k something when I start doing something like that, I am not a handyman person. I don't even have the tools anyway.

Also, I still wonder where online you found the info because I was searching for the maximum supported collers' mm quite a bit too myself and found only the 1 forum which mentions those unconfirmed 160mm. Nwm, now I found more when I used the model number inntead of searching for the max supported case's cooler mm lenght xD .

Anyway, after Aeacus showed me his rig, I think the problem is not (just) about the cooler but because I have little space for air inside the box or do I? I would like your opinion too - do you think it is enough when it comes to space around CPU cooler on my pictures above?

 

[Karadjgne]

Not in the slightest. Think about it. Look at that picture. Where is the air coming from, what does it have to go past just to get to the cpu cooler. Imagine ypu are running across a football field, no restrictions, wide open, run as fast as you can. The air in your case is you running through thick woods instead, trying to dodge every tree, branch and root. You won't run fast, or far.

I'd not be in the slightest bit surprised to see 5°-10°C drop in temps simply by some decent cable management and clearing a good wide path for air to move in the case.

Case size is irrelevant. It's all in how it's used.







This is my pc. No case fans, don't need them. Literally mm of space between some components. It's about the same size as a shoe box for a pair of size 10 sneakers (not high-tops either).

I have more equipment inside a box 1/4 the size of your case and still have immaculate cable management, it's an absolute must. You have no excuse 😉

 

[Supertroop1501]

Case size is irrelevant. It's all in how it's used.
...
I have more equipment inside a box 1/4 the size of your case and still have immaculate cable management, it's an absolute must. You have no excuse 😉

No excuses? But I have to lead the cables through somewhere don't I? And I don't have many options where I can lead them through. I don't have the PSU right next to the MB like you do. I have it under the GPU which is large in all its dimensions and so I have to go around it. And since there is so little space, I don't even need to put the cables together manually because they already are. If I wanted it more I would have to probably break them or leave them someplace where they could get in the way of a fan so I better leave them down under in that nest instead.

 

[Aeacus]

No excuses? But I have to lead the cables through somewhere don't I?

By design, my PC case is same as yours, standard ATX. Sure my Skylake build is in a bigger PC case, with more space inside, but the cable routing follows the same, tried, tested and proven to be practical (also good looking) method, by routing all the cables behind MoBo tray. You can do the same as well. Sure, you may have less depth behind MoBo, but you still have some.

For comparison, here is my old AMD build (full specs with more pics in my sig), in a case as big as yours:

That PC case is Sharkroon DG7000-G Green and it doesn't excel on build quality or ease of build as my Corsair cases do. Still, if there is a will - there is a way.

Back side, with back panel off, looks like so (and i know it isn't that pretty but no-one is going to see it anyways ):

So... any more excuses?

Btw, proper cable management takes time and effort. I've spent easy 2-4 hours per one of my PCs, to make the proper cable management you all see. Not doing proper cable management shows negligence and laziness on owner's part. Whereby when issues arise, namely high thermals, is common place. And will all the loose cables hanging everywhere, it's a matter of time before any of them catch fan blades. At which point, the issue will be far more severe than just high thermals and a lot of dust.

To end my post, here is my 3rd PC, Haswell (again, full specs with more pics in my sig), that i built for my missus, in a Corsair 750D Airflow Edition full-tower ATX PC case:

Proper cable management is:

• good looking
• doesn't restrict airflow
• doesn't collect additional dust on free hanging cables
• no risk of cables getting stuck in moving parts (fans)

So, either open up your PC fully and do proper cable management; or buy a new, bigger PC case, and then do proper cable management.

 

[Supertroop1501]

I still don't know why it is such a big deal - my CPU cooler's airflow is not being restricted by any cables, maybe the 1 only one which is to power the CPU. I could move it so it is not in front nor behind the cooler's airflow direction but how could that 1 cable near the cooler be such a problem? And I really don't see anything else I could do and definitelly not with those cables at the bottom under the GPU.

It looks bad down there probably because I use 3 separate cables to power 1 GPU as recommended by its manual.

 

[Aeacus]

I still don't know why it is such a big deal

The pics you showed us, have your PC running with side panel off. Any particular reason why you keep your side panel off when your PC is running?

I could move it so it is not in front nor behind the cooler's airflow direction but how could that 1 cable near the cooler be such a problem?

It's not only that one cable (which is actually 4+4 pin EPS12V, needed to power your CPU), but other cables as well. E.g those between 5.25" bay and GPU. With that little space filled with cables = that any airflow your front fan is trying to push in, is restricted even further.

Also, it doesn't help that your GPU is too big, where at least half of one of the GPU fans, is blocked by 3.5" HDD cage.
And since you have open-air style GPU, it will expel all of it's heat outwards and upwards, towards CPU. CPU cooler getting only hot air from GPU, and no fresh and cool air from outside of the case, doesn't help your CPU thermals at all. It actually makes it worse. Whereby, it isn't that big of a surprise of you seeing 100C out of your CPU.

All-in-all: what would fix your situation;

1. Proper cable management + high-performance fans (e.g Noctua industrial). To deliver cool air to your system.
2. Bigger case, where airflow isn't that restricted (and good cable management as well).

Look your case at this way; from where is your GPU supposed to get cool air from?
Front of the GPU is filled with thick power cables and one half of the fan is completely blocked. <- This chokes GPU and makes it run much hotter. <- Which in turn, makes GPU produce more heat than necessary. <- All this heat is going upwards, into CPU cooler. <- You're seeing 90-100C from CPU.

 

[Supertroop1501]

The pics you showed us, have your PC running with side panel off. Any particular reason why you keep your side panel off when your PC is running?

Well if I was taking photos with the cover in place, you guys wouldn't see much now would you ?

It's not only that one cable (which is actually 4+4 pin EPS12V, needed to power your CPU), but other cables as well. E.g those between 5.25" bay and GPU. With that little space filled with cables = that any airflow your front fan is trying to push in, is restricted even further.

It is probably not good to distinguish on my photos, but that is again just 1 cable. However, yeah I can better get it away from the airflow path if possible.

Also, it doesn't help that your GPU is too big, where at least half of one of the GPU fans, is blocked by 3.5" HDD cage.
And since you have open-air style GPU, it will expel all of it's heat outwards and upwards, towards CPU. CPU cooler getting only hot air from GPU, and no fresh and cool air from outside of the case, doesn't help your CPU thermals at all. It actually makes it worse. Whereby, it isn't that big of a surprise of you seeing 100C out of your CPU.

The GPU is not overheating at all and the CPU is able to go for 100°C even if the GPU is not being used at all (therefore no any hot air to be produced). The "roof" of the 3.5 HDD cage is not solid - the air is flowing from there even to the 3rd GPU's fan, none of the GPU fans are bocked by any solid floors/plates there.

All-in-all: what would fix your situation;

1. Proper cable management + high-performance fans (e.g Noctua industrial). To deliver cool air to your system.
2. Bigger case, where airflow isn't that restricted (and good cable management as well).

Yep, we have established that already I guess. I am not looking forward to it, but I guess I will have to do it rather sooner than later.

Look your case at this way; from where is your GPU supposed to get cool air from?
Front of the GPU is filled with thick power cables and one half of the fan is completely blocked. <- This chokes GPU and makes it run much hotter. <- Which in turn, makes GPU produce more heat than necessary. <- All this heat is going upwards, into CPU cooler. <- You're seeing 90-100C from CPU.

Again, I tested the CPU overheating even without any activity of the GPU, it was the same. And again, the GPU is not overheating even if at 100%.

 

[Supertroop1501]

Anyway, for now I have set the CPU from 5300Mhz to 4900Mhz... underclocking in a way, but now the temperatures are able to keep around & under 90°C and won't go beyond 93°C.

 

[Karadjgne]

That's called 'cutting off your nose to spite your face'.

You have a large gpu, a hdd cage in a bad place, only the one intake fan that I can see, double optical? It's a bad layout for airflow to begin with, so anything that can be done to promote airflow is going to be a bonus. That'll mean some cable management, even turning the psu upside down to create a stronger low pressure area to pull air to the gpu, modifying the hdd cage to give the air a pathway, there's things that can be done for free/cheap without sacrificing performance. If that means breaking out the drill and/or hacksaw, so be it.

 

[Aeacus]

Anyway, for now I have set the CPU from 5300Mhz to 4900Mhz... underclocking in a way, but now the temperatures are able to keep around & under 90°C and won't go beyond 93°C.

Any particular reason why you want to keep CPU at it's max turbo levels of 5.3 Ghz at all times?

Also, why not just remove all OC from CPU, letting it to be at 3.9 Ghz, where when it needs, it can turbo up to 5.3 Ghz? While when idle, CPU can downclock itself, to ~0.8 Ghz.

 

[Supertroop1501]

That's called 'cutting off your nose to spite your face'.

You have a large gpu, a hdd cage in a bad place, only the one intake fan that I can see, double optical? It's a bad layout for airflow to begin with, so anything that can be done to promote airflow is going to be a bonus. That'll mean some cable management, even turning the psu upside down to create a stronger low pressure area to pull air to the gpu, modifying the hdd cage to give the air a pathway, there's things that can be done for free/cheap without sacrificing performance. If that means breaking out the drill and/or hacksaw, so be it.

I don't think it is possible to modify the HDD cage. I would have to remove it whole I suppose, it is the only place in which it can be. I had to even bend a small strip of metal just to fit the GPU in there 😲 .

Cable management... I doubt I can do much except for moving that 1 cable away from CPU cooler airflow and the 2nd cable out of the frontal fan's air way.

By drilling and hacksawing I would only destroy the thing, I can guarantee that. As I said before... I am not much of a handyman. I would definitelly need someone else to do this for me, so let's just forget it. I will buy the case and a cooler when possible, because for disassembling and assembling I will also need someone anyway. I am not able to put it together alone.

 

[Supertroop1501]

Any particular reason why you want to keep CPU at it's max turbo levels of 5.3 Ghz at all times?

Also, why not just remove all OC from CPU, letting it to be at 3.9 Ghz, where when it needs, it can turbo up to 5.3 Ghz? While when idle, CPU can downclock itself, to ~0.8 Ghz.

Ask that my PC. The PC boots itself with it despite I keep reseting it back to 4900 everytime after I log in. I think the Armoury Crate software has to do something with it - after a restart it keeps returning it. And also it is not letting me to turn off OC Tuner I and OC Tuner II - I have to choose one of them but there is no option to shut it off completely.

And anyway, I think in-game it is 5.3 turbo automatically. It is not 5.3 when idle... I think.

 

[Aeacus]

The PC boots itself with it despite I keep reseting it back to 4900 everytime after I log in. I think the Armoury Crate software has to do something with it - after a restart it keeps returning it.

Armory Crate is MoBo utility tool, which is completely unnecessary and which also will override any BIOS setting changes you've done. Sure, it has nice and fancy GUI, but for the most of the times, it produces more issues than it's worth it.

I've seen it happen 1st hand. I have MSI MoBo and for MSI, the program is called MSI Dragon Center. It used to be named MSI Command Center, when my MoBo was brand new. And i did install it as well, to see what it has to offer. Thing is, that MoBo utility tool was completely unable to detect my Kingston RAM and set it running at 2133 Mhz, as soon as OS loaded and MSI Command Center started. In BIOS, PC detected my RAM fine and XMP for 3000 Mhz also held fine. But MSI Command Center didn't like that, by overriding my BIOS settings and keeping my RAM stuck at 2133 Mhz. Only fix was to uninstall MSI Command Center completely, which i did and i haven't never looked back.

And also it is not letting me to turn off OC Tuner I and OC Tuner II - I have to choose one of them but there is no option to shut it off completely.

That OC Tuner is predefined OC profile, which Asus is essentially forcing on everyone, who are using that Armory Crate software. I'd completely uninstall that software, so that you can get control of your BIOS back, whereby you can set your CPU to stock clocks and most likely even solve your temperature issue (for the most part).

And anyway, I think in-game it is 5.3 turbo automatically. It is not 5.3 when idle... I think.

To know, download and run HWinfo64,
link: https://www.hwinfo.com/download/

This shows you what is going on with your PC at all times. And it has logging feature as well (good when you're in-game).

 

[Karadjgne]

I use Armory Crate, and it definitely is not running OC tuner I or II, in fact the only 2 things I use it for are the motherboard Aura and the fanXpert. OC tuner is a choice, not forced.

In bios, do you have it set for standard or performance mode? (top right corner)

 

[Supertroop1501]

I use Armory Crate, and it definitely is not running OC tuner I or II, in fact the only 2 things I use it for are the motherboard Aura and the fanXpert. OC tuner is a choice, not forced.

In bios, do you have it set for standard or performance mode? (top right corner)

It's Performance mode I see in the BIOS.

 

[Aeacus]

the only 2 things I use it for are the motherboard Aura

Gave a check and it seems Asus have incorporated their Aura Sync software into Armory Crate.

IMO, poor decision for users, since now, everyone has to use Armory Crate to control their Asus RGB LEDs. While prior to that, only Aura Sync software was needed for RGB LED control.

 

[Karadjgne]

Oh. Take it off performance mode. Leave it on standard. That should allow you to stop using the OC tuner etc. You had a motherboard OC trying to hold up a bios OC trying to hold up a software OC.. Wow circles, no wonder there's issues.

Asus has been doing that for years. All their software was integrated, in what's now called Asus Ai Suite. Adding Aura to it would have been difficult, RGB is native to the board now, not an addition, so Armory Crate is standalone but Asus really recommended, even has a toggle in bios to download/install it. The forced part is when you enable Performance Mode for the motherboard, that changes parameters inside the bios to be more aggressive, run higher than standard voltages, push the cpu to limits, while limiting the amount of eco setting involvement.

Asus Eco setting for the mobo used to limit per core usage to 40%, so even in the worst case scenario SFF builds, no overheating cpu possible.

Asus has given you all the tools necessary for the job, you just need to choose the right one for your application. Holding a hammer in each hand isn't going to work out well for driving a nail.