Replacing the RADIATOR?

Jeffcleds

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Mar 7, 2017
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Hey I guys, I just wanna ask if I can replace the radiator of "Maelstrom 120t". It's radiator is only 120mm. But I found a 360 mm radiator at lazada. Can I replace it? Although maelstrom 120t is a "fixed" liquid cooler, meaning it is locked to it's radiator, for short, plug and play, no need to assemble something up. Thanks in advance!

If yes, then should I replace the liquid inside it? And what kind of liquid would it be?

What are the risks also?


btw this is the link of the radiator I found in lazada.

http://www.lazada.com.ph/new-360mm-aluminum-computer-radiator-water-cooling-cooler-for-cpuled-heatsink-7755209.html?ff=1

this is my current liquid cooler:

http://www.deepcool.com/product/gamerstorm/2015-04/6_1822.shtml
 
Solution
1. Using a hose clamp I don't think qualifies as "advanced", any driveway auto mechanic will manage that w/o issue. I have done temporary plumbing repairs in my house 9and others), with hose clamps and hose, but that's only till I can get to the supply house and get proper materials. I'm not comfortable with hose clamps in a PC even using specifically designed tubes, clamps and G-1/4 fittings; I want something more reliable.... we only use compression fittings or hard acrylic tubing in our WC builds.

2. Still no way to bleed system and a proper coolant also comes at significant cost ... there's still no way to augment corrosion inhibitors without taking the CLC cooling system out of the PC case.

3. Still no way to address the...


No can do.
You'll never get a good enough seal on the pipes once you take it apart, and the pump is sized for that size rad.
A larger rad won't get enough flow through it.
 
You can do it but you will need a lot more parts. Closed loop systems like the one you have are just that closed loops, once you open them you will never get all the air out of the system to make it a closed loop system again.

Changing out the radiator for a larger one will cause more stress on the pump and make it fail sooner, you will also need to add in a reservoir to allow air to escape the system.
 
I cant see replacing an aluminum radiator with another aluminum radiator. You'll have no fittings and no way to bleed the system and you'd lose the special coolant which inhibits galvanic corrosion between the copper block / aluminum radiator. You would be far, far better off with an air cooler. As you can see here:

The NH-D15 beats the 3 x 120mm Deepcool Captain 360 while being more than twice as loud.
CPU_OC_typical_b.gif


These CLCs are no "expandable" and you can not swap out parts. If you want to do that, you need to buy a model from Swiftech or EK

http://www.swiftech.com/aio.aspx
 


For a normal person no they aren't expandable. For someone advance yes you can, I had a corsair h60 pump with a 2*40mm radiator with reservoir running on an ITX board inside an original NES case. You can use 1/4" or 6mm hose with clamps and works just fine.
 
1. Using a hose clamp I don't think qualifies as "advanced", any driveway auto mechanic will manage that w/o issue. I have done temporary plumbing repairs in my house 9and others), with hose clamps and hose, but that's only till I can get to the supply house and get proper materials. I'm not comfortable with hose clamps in a PC even using specifically designed tubes, clamps and G-1/4 fittings; I want something more reliable.... we only use compression fittings or hard acrylic tubing in our WC builds.

2. Still no way to bleed system and a proper coolant also comes at significant cost ... there's still no way to augment corrosion inhibitors without taking the CLC cooling system out of the PC case.

3. Still no way to address the mixed metals .... advanced users know what happens when you mix copper block and an aluminum radiator.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

4. The goal in moving up in radiator size is presumably to get the CPU cooler. The air cooler will keep the CPU cooler and the system will be half as loud as opposed to the new system.

5. You're still stuck with a pump that is way below (0.11 gpm) the recommended 1.0 gpm minimum for water cooling which, combined with the low efficiency of aluminum, still leaves you needing extreme speed fans



 
Solution
If you want to change from a crappy 120mm liquid, either get one of the better air coolers, or a larger AIO 240/280mm, or go all out with a custom open loop.

Trying to change just the radiator on that thing will cost more, and deliver worse performance, than any of the above options.