Question (Resolved) New build won’t boot, no power indication

[Reel9898]

Hi. This is my second ever build so I’m still a noob.

I’ve tried everything in here https://gamesreq.com/troubleshootin...entifying-issues-with-psu-motherboard-or-cpu/

I’m building with the x870 ice, Ryzen 9 9950x cpu, Corsair h150i elite capellix aio, Corsair vengeance DDR5 6400 32gb (I have two 32gb sticks but trying to boot with one), Kingston kc3000 m.2. 1tb and Corsair RM1000x psu. No gpu as I’m waiting for 5000 series to release.

I’m getting nothing when trying to boot, no lights, no debug codes, no display. I’ve done everything on a grounded esd mat whilst wearing a wrist band. I’ve tried inside and outside the case. The standoffs are correct and nothing is touching the back of the motherboard when it’s in the case. I’ve reseated the cpu, no film on it anywhere. I’ve reset the cmos several times and tried the reset button on motherboard and Q-flash on the IO. Even tried a new cmos battery.

Currently plugged into motherboard are the 24 pin, 2x 8 pin atx (I’ve tried one), cpu fan header and hdmi.

I’ve tested my psu with a tester and all voltages are correct. I can’t try a different cpu or ram as I don’t have any but I would expect the leds to tell me if there was a fault with them. I’ve also tried letting it memory train for around 5 mins but there’s no sign of life.

Any help would be appreciated as right now it seems like the board is dead and I’ve already sent one back for the same reason. Any questions I’ll reply asap.

Manual for motherboard https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...1005_e.pdf?v=9141322d8c7b97a3f236a50024bdf1d9

 

[boju]

Same thing with previous board, makes me wonder if it's something simple missed like case power button connector not connected to the correct motherboard pins?

The cables used came with Corsair yeah? No other cables from a different psu in the mix?

 

[Reel9898]

Same thing with previous board, makes me wonder if it's something simple missed like case power button connector not connected to the correct motherboard pins?

The cables used came with Corsair yeah? No other cables from a different psu in the mix?

It’s currently outside the case so I’m using the onboard power button and also trying the power pin short

Cables are original with new psu

 

[boju]

Only other thing i can think of atm, besides being unlucky a second time with doa board, is checking modular power cables are fully plugged both ends.

 

[Reel9898]

Same thing with previous board, makes me wonder if it's something simple missed like case power button connector not connected to the correct motherboard pins?

The cables used came with Corsair yeah? No other cables from a different psu in the mix?

Only other thing i can think of atm, besides being unlucky a second time with doa board, is checking modular power cables are fully plugged both ends.

Yeah I’ve tested each cable and tried every connection. But thank you. I’ve emailed support but it’s gigabyte sooooo.

 

[Reel9898]

Photo of the board and the psu tester with 24 and 8 pin plugged in

https://imgur.com/a/zw5J4q4

View: https://imgur.com/a/zw5J4q4

 

[Reel9898]

Could anybody offer any suggestions please?

 

[Ralston18]

Use a multimeter to test the PSU.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/test-a-pow...to,is properly set for your country. See More.

AND

https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-voltage-tolerances-2624583

Any voltages out of tolerance make the PSU very suspect.

Plus I noted in the posted image some "L.L" readings which likely indicate a PSU failure.

From the first link:

" If any voltage reads "LL" or "HH" or if the LCD screen doesn't light up at all, the power supply isn't working properly; you need to replace it."

 

[Darkbreeze]

I’ve tried everything in here https://gamesreq.com/troubleshootin...entifying-issues-with-psu-motherboard-or-cpu/

Forget that nonsense, it's almost less helpful than AI answers. Try all of these.


Double check all of the no-POST checkpoints, FIRST.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

Manual test PSU. PSU testers are usually really not helpful other than to determine the unit can power on and that no-load voltage is present. Does not mean it "works" or doesn't have protection problems.

Bench test motherboard.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Darkbreeze]

Any help would be appreciated as right now it seems like the board is dead and I’ve already sent one back for the same reason.

And, did they EXPLICITLY TELL YOU that yes the board was bad and here is a brand new one, or did they just send you back the same board? Did they even SAY anything, because having gone through MANY, MANY RMA processes in the past I know for a fact that often they don't tell you a damn thing, they just send you back a replacement or the same board with no information as to any findings. Sometimes, often in fact, they'll just send you another board that might have the same or different/worse problems that is supposedly "refurbished" or "tested". In my experience, these kinds of replacements are NOT "refurbished" or "tested". I've seen at least ten or twenty, conservatively, cases on this forum alone where the "replacement" board was either also no good or was in fact the same exact board.

If what you got returned was not in a brand new condition, shrink wrapped motherboard box with no signs at all that it has ever been opened or used, I would be very suspect of this fact.

 

[Reel9898]

Use a multimeter to test the PSU.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/test-a-power-supply-using-a-power-supply-tester-2626160#:~:text=How to Use a Power Supply Tester to,is properly set for your country. See More.

AND

https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-voltage-tolerances-2624583

Any voltages out of tolerance make the PSU very suspect.

Plus I noted in the posted image some "L.L" readings which likely indicate a PSU failure.

From the first link:

" If any voltage reads "LL" or "HH" or if the LCD screen doesn't light up at all, the power supply isn't working properly; you need to replace it."

Thanks for your reply. I thought the L.L readings are because I don’t have those cables plugged in? The bottom row is all from the 24 pin, middle figure is from atx 8 pin, other two aren’t plugged in so give null readings.

I will test again with a multimeter this afternoon. Happy holidays.

 

[Reel9898]

And, did they EXPLICITLY TELL YOU that yes the board was bad and here is a brand new one, or did they just send you back the same board? Did they even SAY anything, because having gone through MANY, MANY RMA processes in the past I know for a fact that often they don't tell you a damn thing, they just send you back a replacement or the same board with no information as to any findings. Sometimes, often in fact, they'll just send you another board that might have the same or different/worse problems that is supposedly "refurbished" or "tested". In my experience, these kinds of replacements are NOT "refurbished" or "tested". I've seen at least ten or twenty, conservatively, cases on this forum alone where the "replacement" board was either also no good or was in fact the same exact board.

If what you got returned was not in a brand new condition, shrink wrapped motherboard box with no signs at all that it has ever been opened or used, I would be very suspect of this fact.

Sorry for the confusion. I bought another board because I wasn’t going to wait for the first to be tested and whatever else. So this second board is another brand new one. Both from Amazon.

Happy holidays.

 

[Reel9898]

Forget that nonsense, it's almost less helpful than AI answers. Try all of these.


Double check all of the no-POST checkpoints, FIRST.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

Manual test PSU. PSU testers are usually really not helpful other than to determine the unit can power on and that no-load voltage is present. Does not mean it "works" or doesn't have protection problems.

Bench test motherboard.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

Thank you I’ll do all of this later today. Happy holidays.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I'd also try powering on, which is outlined in the bench test guide, without that M.2 drive installed just in case there's an issue with the drive. And then also with NO memory installed, just to see if it makes a difference on showing that there's power to the board.

 

[Reel9898]

Forget that nonsense, it's almost less helpful than AI answers. Try all of these.


Double check all of the no-POST checkpoints, FIRST.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

Manual test PSU. PSU testers are usually really not helpful other than to determine the unit can power on and that no-load voltage is present. Does not mean it "works" or doesn't have protection problems.

Bench test motherboard.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

In one of your other replies you mentioned booting without any drives or ram, I already tried that and still no motherboard lights. So either psu or motherboard are to blame.

So. I haven’t used a multimeter in a long time. I’ve watched different videos to triple check my settings and application.

The ac plug going from the outlet to the psu should read 230-250V AC, I get 246V so that’s fine.

When I test each pin according to the corsair guide and diagram I get 0.0V from each pin. I’m definitely touching metal connections on each pin but none of them give any voltage. I’m using each DC V setting just in case but 20V should be the correct option.

I know you say to disregard it but the power supply tester tells me that the 12V supply is correct on both sides. I agree that the testers that simply light up to indicate power are only as useful as the paperclip test but mine shows individual voltages.

So from the multimeter readings it looks like it would be the 24 pin adaptor. I’ll order a new one from Corsair.

 

[Darkbreeze]

WHOAW, what adapter are we talking about? You didn't say anything about adapters, anywhere that I've seen here.

 

[Reel9898]

(Resolution) I feel like an idiot. The first time it didn’t boot I asked some friends who had all built their own systems and all of them told me not to plug in one of the connectors from the psu. The 24 pin had a 10 pin branching off it and there is no 10 pin connector on the board, so I looked it up and it looked like it was for older motherboards. My friends agreed and said to leave it unconnected.

It goes back into the psu, so that cable is a full loop back to the power supply. Nothing that I’ve read, anywhere, and I’ve read an awful lot in the past week while trying to troubleshoot, said to plug that back into the power supply. Even gigabyte and corsair support agreed with me that I had DOA components after troubleshooting with me. Everything runs perfectly now.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok. There are literally no "loop backs" when it comes to power supplies. There are either full on non-modular cables that are part of the PSU and plug into various hardware at the other end if required, or, there is semi-modular cabling where only the absolute required cables are hard wired to the PSU and then there are some optional cables that are used as needed, or there is fully modular cabling that offers the option of everything, but none of it ever "loops back". On modular power supplies one end must be plugged in to the power supply if that cable is needed and the other end plugs into whatever is required. That might be 20 or 24 pin ATX, 4+4 pin EPS/CPU, SATA power, etc., but in 35+ years I've never seen anything that "looped" anywhere when it comes to power supplies.

 

[Reel9898]

Ok. There are literally no "loop backs" when it comes to power supplies. There are either full on non-modular cables that are part of the PSU and plug into various hardware at the other end if required, or, there is semi-modular cabling where only the absolute required cables are hard wired to the PSU and then there are some optional cables that are used as needed, or there is fully modular cabling that offers the option of everything, but none of it ever "loops back". On modular power supplies one end must be plugged in to the power supply if that cable is needed and the other end plugs into whatever is required. That might be 20 or 24 pin ATX, 4+4 pin EPS/CPU, SATA power, etc., but in 35+ years I've never seen anything that "looped" anywhere when it comes to power supplies.

The back of the psu has 2 connections on the “motherboard” section. It’s the rm1000x modular from Corsair. One cable plugs into the 18 pin connector on psu, goes to the 24 pin on the motherboard and continues to a 10 pin connector which goes back into the psu. I can’t take a photo because it’s all tied in now, if you laid out the cable on a desk it looks like a U with the 24 pin at the bottom. To me that’s a loop, the 24 pin is literally halfway along the cable. When I looked up why it had a 10 pin connector (because I don’t have a 10 pin on the motherboard) I found forums saying it’s for dell motherboards only. I’ve since seen cables where the 18 pin and 10 pin are very close to each other, more like a Y, which is what made me look more closely and decide to try it in the psu.

 

[boju]

From 8:25 can see how he connects the 24pin, it's a split end. It's a straight cable so no loop back.

View: https://youtu.be/-MPSkh2hobA?si=6zrgnu0jqLuireED

 

[Reel9898]

At 10:40 you can see how the cable splits from the 24 pin. I fitted the cable I’m telling you it’s a U shape cable with the 24 pin at the bottom of the U.

I already said I feel like an idiot over it. My friend is on his 4th full build and he agreed not to plug in the 10 pin. Pc works now so no worries.

 

[Darkbreeze]

That's not a loop back. That's simply multiple connectors coming off the same cable on the PSU end because each of those connectors is fed by a different part of the modular board. It is not a loopback, it's just multiple plugs on PSU end of cable. But it's great that your system is working correctly now so it's a moot point.