Revisit SSD optimization.

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kol12

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Jan 26, 2015
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Hi, I've decided to check over some of my settings related to SSD/Windows optimization. I originally followed a guide but upon checking my settings recently I've realised I may not have followed it to a tee.

I just want some opinions on a few things like the hibernation file (keep? Change size?), Pagefile (keep? Change size?)

write back caching and write-caching buffer flushing. The guide recommends enabling write back caching and disabling write-caching buffer flushing..

I have the Samsung Magician software (I have a Samsung 850 EVO) Samsung Magician's optimization is set on a custom/advanced setting, I'm guessing this is mirroring what settings have been applied in Windows..
I'm guessing any settings applied in Samsung Magician directly change the Windows settings?

I've read through the guide I have multiple times but it doesn't seem to mention Prefetch/superfetch. Any opinions on enabling/disabling this?

The guide I've followed is this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds

Screenshot below shows my current "Samsung Magician" settings.

Samsung_Magician.png

 
Solution
1) Enable search even on an SSD. Even 100k IOPS is no match for indexing. On Win10, you must have indexing for Cortana to even work.

2) Enable write cache and flushing. Again, RAM is much faster than an SSD. You can disable flushing if your system uses a battery backup, but if not keep it on. A small penalty to performance is better than data corruption.

3) Enable superfetch/prefetch. Even if the SSDs don't benefit as much, they still benefit, and prefetch is global. If you have an SSD+HDD, disabling prefetch slows down your HDD considerably! (many people including myself use an HDD for most games on top of an SSD for critical programs and OS)

4) Hibernate is up to you, though if you have haswell or newer then sleep mode and...


Sleep= CPU mostly off, RAM in low power mode (but on), and then a few mobo dependent things like USB on/off and PCIe states. Since RAM is on, it just resumes to normal use without any difference to keeping it on all the time.
Hibernate=CPU off, RAM off, most mobo stuff off too. Since RAM is off, the RAM contents are first copied to disk at hibernate (slower to turn off) and then copied back at resume (slower to resume). That copy isn't free in terms of energy
 


What about the hybrid sleep which is what I've been using I think..
 
Ok, my understanding is that hybrid sleep functions the same as sleep mode by loading opened apps into ram but also writes the same data to disk basically as a backup in the event of power loss. The benefit being you have the same quick start up of sleep mode with a backup. Sound right?

Because I'm having issues with my PSU not waking from sleep it's most likely it's only resuming with hybrid anyway as I have switch the PSU to wake it.

 


Sounds about right. The sleep issue likely isn't with your psu, rather with the mobo. Try updating the firmware.
 


The PSU I have is a Seasonic X-660KM. My machine developed a problem with not waking from sleep but also not powering on from the case switch when cold booting. Both of these things occasionally work but more often not. I have to power on and wake the machine with the PSU I/O switch.

I'm actually currently in talks with Seasonic about it as it could be PSU related. The person I spoke to suspects and I quote:

"According to your info, it may come from a voltage tension at the boot. Our PSU strictly follow Intel specifications and it may happen that from time to time, your motherboard (VRM component in charge of DC tension) is outside of these specifications which will have for consequence for the PSU not to be able to start."

He's requesting the unit I have be replaced but I don't fully understand if or how that will solve it. Another PSU has been tried in my machine and doesn't exhibit the problem , likewise my PSU has been tested in other machines and works normally. It's definitely got issues with my machine in particular. Motherboard bios and drivers are up to date. Any input is welcomed!
 


Yeah I suppose so, it's less than a year old so well within warranty. The 660KM is apparently discontinued and the direct replacement for it is the X-650KM3 which is the latest unit I think. 10W difference is no concern but if a replacement unit didn't fix the issue I'm worried that I have much bigger problem.