Question Ryzen 5 2600X running very hot...

[Sindarin]

Hello everyone!

I'm new to this forum, so I hope I don't make any mistakes regarding the rules.

I built myself a new computer a few days ago and even though all seems to go pretty well (running very quietly, no errors/crashes, good FPS in different games, ...), I am concerned about the temperature of my new Ryzen 5 2600X.

My build consists of:

• AMD Ryzen 5 2600X (using the stock Wraith Spire cooler, but cleaned the pre-applied thermal paste and used TITAN TTG-G30030 instead)
• MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon
• Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB DDR4 DIMM 2666Mhz/16 (2x8GB) Black
• Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-DELTA RGB
• Corsair RM650X 80+ Gold
• AMD Radeon R9 380 4GB

The thing is, the CPU seems to run very hot while stress testing and has alot of fluctuating values. The only thing I changed on the BIOS was an upgrade to the latest version and I enabled the XML2 (?) profile for my RAM.

Could anyone please assist me on this matter? Also, just noticing now, the CPU and chassis #1 fans... Is that correct? Could I have mixed them up?

Thank you in advance and kind regards,

Sindarin

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, the manual overclock is definitely recommended, so no arguments there because the stock voltage for almost every CPU ever made is USUALLY higher than it needs to be, but cooling needs to be addressed first when a CPU is not thermally compliant at the stock configuration which could be for reasons of high ambient, poor motherboard quality, lack of case cooling, bad mount, etc. Or just the fact that the stock cooler, while better than many past generation stock coolers, still sucks.

 

[Sindarin]

My apologies for losing this thread out of sight and noticing you guys giving me alot of additional advice. Thank you for that, I appreciate it and the information provided is of great (learning) value to me.

As for a replacement cooler for my Ryzen 5 2600x (which is still cooled by the stock cooler and giving way too high temps even when not overclocked), would you guys consider the Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition a good replacement? Should that cooler give me significant lower temps and allow me to overclock even?

Thank you and kind regards.

Link to my online store: https://www.coolblue.be/en/product/783197/scythe-mugen-5-pcgh-edition.html

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, pretty much all versions of the Mugen 5 are very good quality and offer terrific performance.

 

[Sindarin]

Thank you for your answer, currently (on stock cooler) the temperature is fluctuating between 50° Celcius (idle) and 65° Celcius (just by watching YouTube). Granted, it's obviously very warm now both inside and outside the house. The Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition is on it's way as we speak, I'm very curious (and a little bit anxious for the installation itself, don't have that much experience with it) what the temperatures will be once it's installed.

Thank you again for your assistance!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Obviously, in order for an air cooler to be effective, there needs to also be good airflow through the case.

I may have missed it, but looking back I don't see where we've discussed case airflow much or at all.

What case do you have?

How many case fans do you have?

What location is each case fan installed in and what direction is each case fan blowing?

Using a diagram might be easier if you prefer, but is not necessary.

 

[Sindarin]

The case the Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-DELTA RGB (by "diagram", do you maybe mean how the air flows through the case as shown on that website when you scroll down a little?)

Four included 120mm cooling fans provide incredible airflow to cool your system, with room for up to a 360mm radiator in the front, 240mm radiator in the top and 120mm radiator in the rear.

I have taken a few more screenshots from within the BIOS:

 

[Sindarin]

I have moved the curves on the CPU fan (first screenshot a little higher than default). PUMP 1 isn't connected to anything. The others where all set to 7.20V and upped them all to 9.00V, they move a little bit faster now (barely visible though) and the extra noise is still barely noticable.

When I hold my smartphone against the front of the case, it gives me a reading of max. 36dB at the moment.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, my question really is, you have four case fans then, and are two of them intakes in front, one of them exhaust in the rear and one of them exhaust in the top rear? If not, that is what they really would offer the best performance being configured as, and I'd set it up that like if it were a system I was working on.

 

[Sindarin]

Well, in the front there are three fans taking in air, at the top rear there is one exhaust fan. There is place to add more fans on the top though, although I am not really sure if I have another connection for it on my motherboard (MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon)? Or maybe that one PUMP 1 connector? (sorry, but really don't know what that one is for tbh)

 

[Darkbreeze]

No, it looks like there are no fans in the top, so there is no top rear fan. There is however a REAR top fan. Generally we just call that the REAR fan, because it's highly improbable to find more than one rear fan except on specialty cases or older ones that utilized multiple 92mm and smaller fans.

I would REALLY recommend putting another fan in the TOP rear position. Having only one exhaust fan is absolutely going to affect temps, and likely is already. Doesn't really matter how much air you bring into the case if you are not getting the heated air OUT of the case fast enough. Plus, much of that airflow is going straight out through the vents in the top.

Might not be the worst idea in the world to not only add an additional exhaust fan in the top rear position, but maybe also mod/fabricate some kind of ABS plastic or painted metal panel to block the vents where the other two fan locations in the top would be. Adding fans to those locations is generally counter productive and those are truthfully only beneficial if you intend to mount a radiator there.

Having fans in the middle and front positions in the top of the case "steals" airflow from the VRM and CPU cooler portion of the case and effectively interrupts the "air path" that is desirable to go past those components.

At the very least, I'd add another exhaust fan to that top rear position. That should help somewhat. Especially after you add a bigger cooler, but even now, immediately, you may well see some benefit from it.

 

[Sindarin]

I understand, it was a bit confusing, but thank you for explaining.

The delivery from the newly ordered CPU cooler (the Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition) was delayed and will arrive tomorrow. Have been watching a few installation video's of it allready, as it seems a bit more complicated than the installation of the stock cooler.

I guess a 140mm exhaust fan at the top rear position would be better than a 120mm? Could this new fan be connected to the PUMP connector? Or should I get a splitter or? Not sure how I'll "close" the other open space at the top, but I'll figure something out, since it would indeed be "stealing" the airflow.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Could probably find something similar to this. I've seen similar block off magnetic panels before that you can just cut to fit over the inside of the case in those unused locations. I imagine you can get this stuff in smaller sections.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Sheet-Crafts-Signs-Display/dp/B0055D7NO8

The cooler installation is definitely more complicated than a stock cooler and you pretty much have to change the backplate for 99% of aftermarket coolers worth using.