second build feedback.

[sputax]

This is to replace 1st build that died after 10 years. Hopefully will last another decade. Motherboard seems a bit expensive. Not sure about power supply. Would like one big enough to power 2nd graphics card if that becomes practical.

PCPartPicker part list:http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/dNHJhM Price breakdown by merchant:http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/dNHJhM/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£300.00 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£109.91 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£159.98 @ Aria PC) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£89.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£55.76 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£98.39 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card (£487.98 @ Ebuyer) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£77.95 @ Aria PC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan (£11.99 @ Ebuyer) Total: £1391.95

 

[Barty1884]

Well thought out build.

PSU requirements will depend on whether you want to OC. PCPP has you at 475W at absolute full load (you'll never run it that high). So another 250W for a second GPU (again, absolute max it could ever use in theory, not in reality) so that's 725W.

OCing is the variable, as it can add another 10-15% power draw (it's not an exact science).

To be comfortable and allow you to SLI in future, I would suggest a good quality PSU, 850W minimum.
Tier 1 or 2 from here: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Probably your best/cheapest bet would be this XFX Pro Series Black. 850W, Gold, Fully Modular (Tier 1).
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1850bbefx

 

[sputax]

Thanks for the thorough reply. I was afraid to oc my first computer but I think there are ways to do it automatically with newer chips. I also meant to ask, would 2x140 intake fans at front give me positive pressure with the water cooler 2x120 outtake?

 

[Barty1884]

I wouldn;'t recommend any of the "auto clock" options - they tend to over-volt your CPU to stabilize the OC. Much better to take control manually and find the minimum voltage settings required.

As far as positive air pressure.....it depends. Really depends on fan speed. With 2x140mm fans in vs 2x120mm fans out, on the face of it (with all else being equal, all fans at same RPM etc) then yes, that's positive pressure.

If however the 2x120mm fans push air out quicker than the 2x140mm fans can draw air in, then you could potentially have negative pressure.

Positive vs Negative can turn into a long, drawn out discussion. Some people prefect positive, others prefect negative. You really can look at it either way. Exhaust hot air out removes a lot of the "standing" warm air in the case. You can also argue for positive pressure when pulling more cool air in, it'll lower the ambient "standing" temperature. Not the purpose of this discussion though, so I'll leave it at that. Plenty of discussions on this forum if you're interested in reading up.

 

[sputax]

I have a dusty room and I read it was good for preventing that. Thanks for the help.

 

[Barty1884]

Positive pressure would mean pushing more air in than it is capable of exhausting. That would likely result in a dust build up inside your rig. Negative (exhausting more than it's pulling in) is where you'd see less dust.

 

[sputax]

I thought negative pressure meant dust getting in the cracks as air seeps in. Positive pressure meant air pushing out the cracks stopping dust getting in.