Question Should I use 1.5 or 3 amp Power Adapter for external HD can't find 2 amp

May 12, 2025
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I have old Seagate FreeAgentDesk 2009 which is supposed to OE be 2 amp power adapter which I can't find. Can I use the 1.5 or 3 amp? (This actually happened 12 years ago too and called Seagate and I believe what tech said "use the 3 amp", which surprised me I figured less amp is better. (12 years ago, I might not have that correct).
Thank you!
 
I just found this Power Adapter which didn't come with Seagate HD. It's labeled "2000ma" (2a). The other 1.5 and 3a I'm 100% are Seagate OEM. Should I go with the Seagate OEM 3a or the unkown device "2000ma"?

It's incredible how good all of you are, people i've never met/spoken with! Compared to going into stores/calling tech support where the person knows nothing to little or tells you the wrong info LOL
Thank you!

 
Just for informational purposes, voltage and polarity must always match (though some devices like laptops can take slight variances because they have power control circuitry, just like a PC power supply can handle some variation in your AC power), but you can always use a higher amperage supply for a device that needs fewer amps. Voltage is a "push", always trying to shove the full voltage into the device even if it would burn it out. Amperage is "available" to the device, and the device will only try to use whatever it needs, and if the supply is rated higher then the extra is just unused. You could use a 300 amp power supply for the drive if the voltage matched and the connector was right. That's why a PC power supply can be 2000 watts (volts x amps) even though it's only supplying 12V and 5V and 3.3V to the components. However if you use a supply that isn't rated for enough amps to meet the device's draw, then the power supply or the device could be damaged (if it's a large difference), or at best just won't work properly. A 300W power supply can't provide enough amps to power a massive CPU and GPU during heavy usage, even though it's still supplying the same voltages.

External 2.5 inch mechanical drives for example often use drives internally that are rated to need just a little bit more than USB3.0 in-spec port is supposed to provide, but it only needs that much power when first spinning up so it's close enough to work and the drive just takes a little longer to spin up, or the motherboard can handle a brief draw beyond the spec limit. External 3.5" drives however require MUCH more power than a USB port can supply and you would blow the USB port's fuse if there is one, or the motherboard's power circuitry entirely if there isn't, if you tried to draw that many amps. (Plus 3.5" drives use 12V power which isn't supplied by USB.)
 
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My pleasure. Let us know how things work out.
It's already working fine LOL! THANK YOU all! I'm moving valuable sentimental data off 2009 disks to 2018 disk. How many years do you think these EHD should last? (most have not been plugged in for 12 to 16 years. I filled them in two years then don't touch but 0 to 2 times over 16 years. When I spoke (before all these corporations have eliminate human support for chat AI) to a Seagte tech he directly said they don't last long, like a couple years. I told him I've been using them for 10+ years. (But in this process I've have 1 EHD just fail but it was working, I got all the data off it and when I was emptying the trash it was trying to empty trash for 3 hours never emptied the trash, I restarted mac and that disk cannot be FIRST AID with message the disk is bad "back up your data". It's weird how empty trash made it fail?

All the Seagate Free Agent GO FLEX have design flaw/bad parts/connection. On the bottom 1/10 a piece of plastic with pins connects to EHD body, all 12 of mine after 2 years (just out of warranty) I have to wiggle the Power Adapter connected into that small slice of plastic to get the EHD to receive power. Sometimes it works first touch sometimes I have to wiggle 90 seconds. It does nothing to wiggle just the small slice so I assume the flaw is at the Power Adapter connection to the slice, it's not the pins on the slice connected to the main body EHD. What were the designers thinking making two pieces?

(evermorex76) that's really valuable well explained info! Thanks!)
 
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What were the designers thinking making two pieces?
I never did understand what their thinking was. Maybe they considered offering the drives in the casing by themselves, without the base, at a lower cost so you could have multiple external drives and swap them as needed, just using the same base? They even had separate part and serial numbers on them. (And then nobody cared enough to bother making them available.) Or it was cheaper for them to RMA their crappy drives because they didn't have to replace that part? But it worked out great for me in my job for years because if one of the drives failed at a client's office and couldn't be RMA'd, we'd end up with a perfectly good base and could keep them to use for working with bare drives externally. They work fine just plugging a bare HDD or SSD into, as long as you lay them flat, so they became a tool for our techs to carry around or have in our office work room, and I ended up taking one home and have had it for years used on and off.

But having that part separate has nothing to do with the reliability of the power connector, obviously. Even if they were a single piece like the current Seagate and WD models, the power connector could wear out. It's still just a piece of metal with a couple of pins soldered to a PCB. They just wear out when they're plugged/unplugged a lot, or hang at an angle all the time.

The big external drives are nothing more than a normal desktop drive put into a casing with a USB interface, but they do get warmer during use since there's no airflow other than a little bit of ambient air through the vents, so they may tend to die sooner when they're always plugged in. But if they're just unplugged and set aside, they'd have the same lifespan as a bare drive. But that lifespan has been discovered to be much less than we once thought. The music industry has recently lost a lot of their data, like master recordings, because the hard drives they stored them on went bad. Ten years seems to be a risky length of time to just let them sit as the media surface degrades in that time. (There could also be other issues like the spindle motor grease going bad, etc., but the media seems to be the real issue.) If you took them out once a year and moved the data off to do a full format then moved it back onto the drive, that activity might "refresh" the magnetic material and make them last a bit longer, but just it's also a chemical process that makes it detach from the surface so it's going to happen eventually. Two years is maybe the lifespan if it's under constant use (Seagate has poor reliability anyway), but 5 years when sitting unused ought to be acceptable and mostly safe. Sixteen years is definitely taking it to the extreme.
 
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Spinning disks can die at any time. That is why it is important to have a solid backup routine. Never have key files/documents only one place.
I know, that's why I have so many disks, for 16 years I had two copies of each disk but it's just became too expensive. 4 years ago I gave up and only have one disk/one copy, I know it's really bad procedure. 7 months ago Costco stopped selling spinning EHD 8T. Not even online available $240 + tariffs LOL. Only have the 4T SSD. I prefer minimum 8T. (better would be 100T at $500 and reliable). The cost 8T at Bestbuy/Malmart $170 is much higher than Costco sales of $90.

Just found this on walmart 6T $24
https://www.walmart.com/ip/External...ver/5622186488?classType=VARIANT&athbdg=L1600
 
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Just found this on walmart 6T $24
I am absolutely 100% certain that is trash, fake, maybe an old 500GB drive in a shell, or even an SD card on an adapter board. The nonsense-name fly-by-night direct from China branded 500GB drives on Amazon are barely that cheap. If it's too good to be true, it's not true.

An 8TB drive on Amazon is only $150. Granted it's not $90. Just how much data do you have in total? You obviously need to "migrate" to replacement drives more often than after 16 years, but yeah, it's just going to get more expensive year after year if you never delete anything. But if the data is so important you won't delete it, is the cost to have two copies actually "too expensive"? Or are you fine with it possibly being lost?

It might be better at this point to just get a massive drive like 24TB so you can move everything from drives older than 5 years onto it (size depending on how much data that would actually be), then next year move some more data from the then-oldest drive, then do it again each year or two until that big drive is full, by which time it will then be time to migrate THAT drive to another much bigger drive.
 
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