Slow Boot time on New PC

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Jul 3, 2018
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Hi all. I have recently built a gaming PC with the following specs:

i7 8700k CPU
Asus ROG GTX 1060 6gb
Samsung m.2 960 EVO 500gb
Asus Maximus X Hero Wifi-AC mobo
EVGA SuperNova G3 650W PSU
GSkill 16gb DDR4-3200 Trident-Z RGB memory

I am a little weary about my new system. From a fresh power-up of my PC i get a boot time of about 40 seconds.My last BIOS time in task manager is listed at 16.4 seconds. I have watched numerous youtube videos of people booting into windows with a similar system and the same i7 8700k processor in less than 20 seconds. Any input would be very much appreciated

Zudz
 
Solution


No I didn't mean to imply it was loud. Only reason I mentioned sound levels is solid front panel cases as a rule are generally quieter. I have an Antec DF-85, and while it's not the best looker, it's awesome for airflow, and very easy to clean.

Funny you should ask about coolers, because I was using a Corsair H50 on my previous CPU...


My bad, for some reason I thought you said somewhere above you now had it in the 2nd slot. Anyway, have you tried putting it in slot 2 then changing slot 1 to SATA so that it's configured to that before installing the drive in slot 1?

As far as I know the default BIOS setting for m.2 slot 1 should be SATA mode, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Note that depending on your BIOS version, this may also require a BIOS update if it's not configuring like it's supposed to. On that I would consult ASUS directly either by phone or email.

And I'll still take ASUS over Giga any day. Pretty much ALL MBs have quirks within the first few months of launch, especially ones with brand new chipset models. ASUS are always very diligent about solving them with BIOS updates, and their support staff are pretty good at resolving things.

 
I've done everything I could in the m.2 department. It shows up as the correct interface in Magician. As for the speed tests they are just about where they should be my only concern is the random IOPS is about 80,000 less than it should be. Any ideas as to why that's not up in the 300,000s?
 
I'd forgotten whether you said why the boot up speed went from 40 sec to 20 sec. I just watched a Hardware Cannucks YouTube vid of a guy installing a 960 Pro, and he was raving about it booting in just under 50 sec vs his WD Blue 4TB in 5 min.

He seemed to have enabled all the Samsung Magician features and I'm wondering if that affects your speed.
 
I just watched the video you're talking about and a lot of the people in the comments are trolling him that he must've just cloned the drive as their Sata SSDs boot in less than 15 seconds. I think a lot of people have a different definition as to what BOOT time is. For me its from the second you press the power button to the second you get to your desktop.

Some settings I changed were disabling the LAN controller as I am on WIFI connection, disabling the bluetooth controller, disabling all SATA ports, turning off SMART check, enabling MRC fast boot, disabling CSM, setting post display screen to only 1 second, and various other tweaks.

I am curious as to whether you have discord or any other type of messenger application so we could exchange that way as you are the only one who seems to be answering my posts.
 
No, sorry, I don't use discord, but I have at times answered questions via PM here when some people send questions my way that way. To be honest I'm as interested in this as you are, as I want to eventually upgrade my Plextor drive to a 512GB nvme. Quite frankly I thought it would be more straight forward. Any time the regular staff has to send a question that should be easy to answer up to tier 2, I wonder if they need to write their manual better.

Oh, btw, when you said you have all SATA ports disabled, did you ever try enabling port 1 just to see if you could then put the m.2 slot you're on in SATA mode? If you can, that would allow you to compare speed and boot times to the way it is now.

I know that sounds strange since the manual says using SATA mode will disable it anyway, but maybe it first hast to be enabled to put it in that mode so there is power running to it to divert to the m.2 slot..
 
Yes I have tried enabling all SATA ports and running it that way as well. I just now recently disabled all the SATA ports manually. Either way didn't change the fact that I could not run it in SATA mode in the BIOS
 
I've done some more reading on this, and it appears maybe the PCIE mode is the default way now, where as it used to be SATA mode was the default. The reason I'm guessing this is because I've read something that refers to using SATA for M Key, and it called the use for PCIE something else. I wonder if they mean the Optane drives and such when they say M Key.

At any rate it appears there are plenty of PCIE lanes to use, as the CPU supports 16 on it's own, but the Z370 chipset supports 24 lanes. So even if the 24 includes the 16 for the CPU, you'd still have 4 spare lanes for another nvme if you want to run RAID.

I'll do some more checking when I get the time on your IOPS problem. As far as I know from what I've read before though, it depends what file size is tested when you bench IOPS on a solid state drive. They've been slow at smaller file sizes as I seem to recall in that regard, and I'm not sure they've ever been able to overcome that with newer ones, even nvme.

At 20 sec and the bench speeds you're showing though, you've got pretty good times and speed. You usually don't get full sequential speeds on the nvme drives.
 
Thank you!

The case is a Corsair 570X Mirror Black edition. The glass on it is super smoked out and thugged out

Interesting about the IOPS. I just ran the Magician test again and I got 3,158 Read and 1,783 Write

Random IOPS showing as 254K for read and 254K for write. It seems to fluctuate. Maybe the Magician software isn't the best to run performance benchmarks on.

 
Yeah that's getting much closer to max read speed now. It could be it's just settling in since it's brand new. I always prefer bench software you can set the file size tested. CrystalDiscMark is a common one people use that you can do that with. Plus it is known for showing the full speed you're running at.

I would have never known from that video your case had a glass panel on the front. I didn't even see it. I prefer cases that allow more direct air flow vs the front panel's, but if you put a decent cooler on today's low watt CPUs, you hardly know the difference. My sys runs pretty quiet at idle when I'm on the net though, because the fans on my EVGA 1080 SC don't even kick on until it hits 55c.
 
What you're hearing is either my AC wall unit which is right next to my computer desk or the crappy H60 Corsair cooler I have turning on. It has to run on MAX for me to keep the i7 8700k temps down to about 35 on idle. Only reason I'm running this cooler is because it came as a gratis with the 570X case. I suppose the next question i could pose is what other corsair cooler you recommend for this rig
 
Now I am having issues with a new monitor and my BIOS. When it's on the HDMI output, the BIOS appears on the monitor. When it's on the displayport output, the BIOS does not appear on the monitor. Why is this? I need the monitor to be running on the displayport
 


No I didn't mean to imply it was loud. Only reason I mentioned sound levels is solid front panel cases as a rule are generally quieter. I have an Antec DF-85, and while it's not the best looker, it's awesome for airflow, and very easy to clean.

Funny you should ask about coolers, because I was using a Corsair H50 on my previous CPU, and in push/pull with two 120mm fans it didn't even cool as well as my new Cryorig H7 with one 120mm fan. The i7-8700k may be a lower wattage chip than my i7-950 was, but at nearly 50% higher clock speed and two more cores, it doesn't run any cooler at load. Maybe even hotter.

I picked the H7 because I wasn't planning on OCing, so didn't want to spend a ton. It's the best dollar per performance air cooler. I also hate how rads on AIO water coolers are so delicate to damage and you have to start unscrewing fans to really clean them well. I get anywhere from 28-30c idle, and about 55c load on the most demanding games. Sometimes it peaks at 60c.

As a result those two fans started conking out on me due to fine dust getting in the sleeve bearings. I had to take the fans completely apart recently because of it and thoroughly clean them and add some lube to the bearings. They're still going but I bought two Antec Two Cool fans to replace them if they ever go out completely.

I suppose if I didn't have fan speed adjustments on my 3 front fans and two rear and two top to regulate the airflow to slightly positive case pressure (slightly more intake than exhaust flow), those fans may have been toast by now. What that does is keep any dust from coming in through crevices in your case. Plus my 3 intake fans have their own easily removable filters, and I added a side intake to blow on my GPU which I installed an aftermarket filter on. IMO every intake should have a filter, and I agree with Antec on not having a bottom intake below the PSU. All you need is rubber feet tall enough to raise the PSU up, and a clear path to the front intake fans to get air under it. That means front facing HDD bays with thin mounting walls. Bottom intakes just pull in too much dust, or require frequent filter cleaning.

On load temps, I advise always using Nvidia Inspector and enabling any features in it that are poorly optimized in game. Usually it's Vsync. I was running Wolfenstein II last night and was able to use much better settings in game with much better frame rates just by enabling the Nvidia Inspector profile for the game and using it for Vsync and triple buffering instead of using the game's vsync. It also made the load GPU temp drop from 68c to 62c. That's a game that looks tons better on max settings too. Nvidia Inspector also has driver level optimizations in it's game profiles, and it has a profile for pretty much every game. Even if it doesn't yield higher FPS, it will often make a game run smoother.





 
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