Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (
More info?)
In this game ('74 Wms Lucky Ace) all pop and sling coils should be DC
(orange wrapper) and should be the same for all 3 bumpers.
So they all share the same power supply (DC voltage from rectifier). If all
3 were weak, I'd suspect a failed rectifier or bad contact in the Game Over
relay.
With just 1 being weak, I'd suspect a bad switch under the pop bumper
skirt/spoon. This is the most common cause- either dirty, misadjusted (too
wide of gap), or pitted/worn switch.
You could try a few things to further diagnose/narrow-down:
- Swap coils with another bumper.
- Swap switch stacks with another bumper.
See if anything changes.
I don't believe these bumpers are controlled by individual relays (as they
were in the 1960's on Wms games), so bad contacts in a relay somewhere
shouldn't be the problem. If I remember right, these bumpers will have 2
sets of contacts- one that activates the bumper, and another (activated by
the bumper as the coil pulls in) which fires the 10, or 100 point relay-
which awards points and rings the chime- something like that.
So only switch in the circuit that could be bad must be the one directly
under the bumper (detector switch). I'd focus on that unless there are any
other contacts in that coil's individual circuit.
Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com
We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
"mike hooker" <mhooker@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:cY9Pe.149$NA5.27312@news.uswest.net...
> ive got a sluggish pop bumper. i'm pretty sure ive adjusted it
> correctly, it the same as the two that really kick out the ball. is
> there a definitive way to diagnose a problem ? contacts are clean, coil
> doent look burnt. i put in a new sleeve, and the brackets arent
> magnetized. does an ohm test tell the tale? should i unwrap some wire
> from the coil ? as always, thanks
>
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