Question So I want a capable pc for my 144hz monitor for 750$

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j3ster

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May 23, 2016
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So do I really need to buy fans alone my question is can the 1 fan that comes in the case be enough for my system?

i doesnt come with 2 fans in the front? thats weird but yea i guess you should buy some fans for the case here are some that id recommend.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wL3RsY/cooler-master-case-fan-r4l2r20arr1 x2 (theres also a blue led version if you like)

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qCH323/arctic-cooling-case-fan-afaco12000gba01 x2
 

Karadjgne

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The word is air-Flow. Not air by itself. In a pc case are multiple heat generators, the Sata controller chip, pcie (old Northbridge chip) VRM's, ram, drives, anything that has a heatsink etc. Then there's the 2x massive heat sources them being the cpu and gpu. So let's say you have 1 exhaust fan. It works by a vacuum in front of the blades, the byproduct being it exhausts the air filling that vacuum out the back. With only that 1 exhaust, where does the air come from? The nearest place the vacuum can draw it from. Which is the venting right below/to the side or above that fan. This happens to also pick up a good chunk of heat that has risen/pushed out from the gpu/cpu. Where does the gpu/cpu get its air from? The surrounding area, which is recycled in/out the heatsinks. Highly inefficient at keeping low temps since it's impossible to cool something by mechanical means to below ambient temps. If the inside of the case by the gpu is 60°C, the lowest possible temp will be 61°C for the gpu.

Works exactly the same for a single intake source, whether that's 1 fan or 3. Air comes in, and just heats up, escaping slowly out from any cracks/seams/vents.

The answer is you need both. Intake and exhaust. This puts cool air in, which gets heated by the heatsinks, but also kicked out by the exhaust in a constant air-Flow. You don't need gale force winds, just a solid stream in/out. Ideally you'll want enough cfm to overcome the BTU of the heatsinks. This is normally attained by 2x low front intakes and 2x top/rear exhaust, creating a diagonal flow up through the heat and out the top corner.

Without decent airflow, you don't own a pc, you own an oven that plays games.

At 1080p, the gtx1660ti beats out the older gtx1070 by a small margin at the same power consumption as a gtx1060. The RTX2060 barely beats out the 1660ti. The only advantages the RTX2060 offers is possible usage of DLSS and ray tracing, both of which only affect the newest games out, if they happen to have those affects coded. Doesn't affect even slightly older games as they don't have it. The other advantage comes in 1440p, the 2060 is slightly stronger than the 1660ti, but for most games you are talking 5-10fps on average. Unless you are a benchmark chaser, that's not anything you'll visibly miss. If at 60/75Hz, most games are so far past that fps, even minimums don't apply, so game play is identical. At 60Hz, doesn't matter if minimums are 100fps or 500fps, you get 60. Nobody can tell the difference between 130fps or 140fps by looking at a monitor. Only the benchmark fps counter can.

A gtx1660ti or rtx2060 only requires 450w psu. The Seasonic Focus 550w is plenty, even with OC. I've been running a i7-3770k OC 4.6-4.9GHz with a gtx970 OC 124% for over 6 years on Evga 550w G2 without issue. Both cpu and gpu demand more than a Ryzen 2600/2700 under OC and a 1660ti/2060 under OC. You'd be lucky to see a 400w draw under heavy gaming.
 
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Guys another thing is one exhaust fan enough because thats what the case comes with I know it has excellent airflow but I am wondering if i need more exhaust or intake fans with this system

Your chassis of choice supports:
Fan Support - Front120 / 140mm x 2
Fan Support - Top120mm x 2
Fan Support - Rear120mm x 1
Fan Support - Bottom120mm x 1

Note: Install the same fans across the board or get as close as possible for best results!

Your configuration should be as follows:
Front: (2) intake 140mm fans (140mm create less noise and have a greater CFM at the same RPM as a 120mm fan)
Top: (2) outtake 120mm fans
Rear: (1) outtake 120mm fan
Bottom: (1) intake 120mm fan
 
Apr 12, 2019
94
5
35
Your chassis of choice supports:
Fan Support - Front120 / 140mm x 2
Fan Support - Top120mm x 2
Fan Support - Rear120mm x 1
Fan Support - Bottom120mm x 1

Note: Install the same fans across the board or get as close as possible for best results!

Your configuration should be as follows:
Front: (2) intake 140mm fans (140mm create less noise and have a greater CFM at the same RPM as a 120mm fan)
Top: (2) outtake 120mm fans
Rear: (1) outtake 120mm fan
Bottom: (1) intake 120mm fan
I dont want all that many fans its just way too much I think 1 exhaust 2 intakes is enough
 
Apr 12, 2019
94
5
35
The word is air-Flow. Not air by itself. In a pc case are multiple heat generators, the Sata controller chip, pcie (old Northbridge chip) VRM's, ram, drives, anything that has a heatsink etc. Then there's the 2x massive heat sources them being the cpu and gpu. So let's say you have 1 exhaust fan. It works by a vacuum in front of the blades, the byproduct being it exhausts the air filling that vacuum out the back. With only that 1 exhaust, where does the air come from? The nearest place the vacuum can draw it from. Which is the venting right below/to the side or above that fan. This happens to also pick up a good chunk of heat that has risen/pushed out from the gpu/cpu. Where does the gpu/cpu get its air from? The surrounding area, which is recycled in/out the heatsinks. Highly inefficient at keeping low temps since it's impossible to cool something by mechanical means to below ambient temps. If the inside of the case by the gpu is 60°C, the lowest possible temp will be 61°C for the gpu.

Works exactly the same for a single intake source, whether that's 1 fan or 3. Air comes in, and just heats up, escaping slowly out from any cracks/seams/vents.

The answer is you need both. Intake and exhaust. This puts cool air in, which gets heated by the heatsinks, but also kicked out by the exhaust in a constant air-Flow. You don't need gale force winds, just a solid stream in/out. Ideally you'll want enough cfm to overcome the BTU of the heatsinks. This is normally attained by 2x low front intakes and 2x top/rear exhaust, creating a diagonal flow up through the heat and out the top corner.

Without decent airflow, you don't own a pc, you own an oven that plays games.

At 1080p, the gtx1660ti beats out the older gtx1070 by a small margin at the same power consumption as a gtx1060. The RTX2060 barely beats out the 1660ti. The only advantages the RTX2060 offers is possible usage of DLSS and ray tracing, both of which only affect the newest games out, if they happen to have those affects coded. Doesn't affect even slightly older games as they don't have it. The other advantage comes in 1440p, the 2060 is slightly stronger than the 1660ti, but for most games you are talking 5-10fps on average. Unless you are a benchmark chaser, that's not anything you'll visibly miss. If at 60/75Hz, most games are so far past that fps, even minimums don't apply, so game play is identical. At 60Hz, doesn't matter if minimums are 100fps or 500fps, you get 60. Nobody can tell the difference between 130fps or 140fps by looking at a monitor. Only the benchmark fps counter can.

A gtx1660ti or rtx2060 only requires 450w psu. The Seasonic Focus 550w is plenty, even with OC. I've been running a i7-3770k OC 4.6-4.9GHz with a gtx970 OC 124% for over 6 years on Evga 550w G2 without issue. Both cpu and gpu demand more than a Ryzen 2600/2700 under OC and a 1660ti/2060 under OC. You'd be lucky to see a 400w draw under heavy gaming.
Should I get a ryzen 2600 or 2700...
The difference is quite big but there is a sale I think will continue for a bit till I buy the parts the 2600 is selling for 165$
While the 2700 is selling for 225$
Keep in mind it will skyrocket past the 775$ mark to become about 850$ with all parts considered
 

Karadjgne

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Ambassador
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($76.31 @ Amazon)
Memory: ADATA - XPG GAMMIX D10 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.95 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec - Earthwatts Gold Pro 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $803.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-14 12:29 EDT-0400


Better storage, better mobo, psu is a rebranded Seasonic Focus Gold. All cheaper than what you had. Price is @ $50 less with these plus a 2600x
 
Apr 12, 2019
94
5
35
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($76.31 @ Amazon)
Memory: ADATA - XPG GAMMIX D10 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.95 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec - Earthwatts Gold Pro 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $803.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-14 12:29 EDT-0400


Better storage, better mobo, psu is a rebranded Seasonic Focus Gold. All cheaper than what you had. Price is @ $50 less with these plus a 2600x
What about using a 2600 and overclocking it isnt it better? To save an extra 25$
 

Karadjgne

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Ambassador
You could, without a doubt do that. Just 1 caveat to that. The 2600x has a slightly better stock cooler than the 2600 and better stock speeds, you realistically don't need to put any OC on the 2600x, it'll boost high enough at stock settings. You can OC the 2600 to 2600x levels, even on the stock cooler, but it's going to run faster and louder since it's not quite as good. Cheaper yes, but for the $25 savings I'm not entirely positive the savings vrs creature comfort are worth it.

Up to you of course.