Question So my PSU fried, put a new one, PC isn't the same

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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So my PSU recently fried in my PC. I replaced it with a new one and the games I'm running aren't the fps they used to be. I even tried a fresh install in Windows, nothing. I'll get around 100 fps on CSGO when I used to get over 400. I'll get 15 fps on DayZ when I used to have 80 min. Would the PSU that burned out possibly partially damaged some parts? Thank you! I downgraded the wattage on the PSU but I think it's more than enough. I used to have 700 watts with a 1060 6 GB and a i5 7700k, now I have a 600.
 
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So, I fixed all your typos that said PCU, because there is no such part in any computer. I assumed that you meant CPU, as in, central processing unit or "processor", but obviously I can't be certain. Is that what you meant?

If so, what do you mean by you "downgraded the wattage on the CPU". Do you mean to say that you reduced the core voltage in the BIOS for the CPU?

Or do you mean you simply replaced your 700w power supply with a 600w model? What was the EXACT model of the old power supply and what is the EXACT model of the new one?

Likely, this may be your problem if you have a poor quality power supply. Watts has nothing to do with quality, but quality can have EVERYTHING to do with watts or rather, what capacity the unit can sustain under demanding loads.
 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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So, I fixed all your typos that said PCU, because there is no such part in any computer. I assumed that you meant CPU, as in, central processing unit or "processor", but obviously I can't be certain. Is that what you meant?

If so, what do you mean by you "downgraded the wattage on the CPU". Do you mean to say that you reduced the core voltage in the BIOS for the CPU?

Or do you mean you simply replaced your 700w power supply with a 600w model? What was the EXACT model of the old power supply and what is the EXACT model of the new one?

Likely, this may be your problem if you have a poor quality power supply. Watts has nothing to do with quality, but quality can have EVERYTHING to do with watts or rather, what capacity the unit can sustain under demanding loads.
Sorry yeah I meant my PSU, I switched to a better quailty one, it's a Corsair certified 80+, the old one was some cheap one I forgot the name of.
 

BryceSpicey

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IF you still have the old one, put it back in to see if you fps is better.
The old one is gone completely, won't turn on and would spark every time I tried internally.
Ok. So what is the EXACT model of the new PSU? Because Corsair has some very low quality units that have seemingly good certifications, which in reality, don't mean much unless the platform being used is already known to be solid.
The new one which I've used in previous builds and has worked great is
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Bronze-Certified-Non-Modular-Supply/dp/B0092ML0OC
 
So, that's a green label Corsair CX unit, which means it's an older, lower quality unit that came with pretty inferior caps. Those tend to not last long when paired with high gaming cards or high demand systems even when the high demand is within the capacity requirements.

I can't say it's YOUR problem, but if that is the only unit you are relying on I'd definitely start looking for a replacement because you're going to need one if you've been using that unit more than two years.

OP changed again, to reflect PSU not CPU, which I had changed it to. Should be good now.

So, in regard to the original post, yes, a power supply that fails and sparks or lets out magic smoke can ABSOLUTELY cause damage, not just "cause damage to anything" but more like it can "cause damage to EVERYTHING". The fact that it didn't after failing spectacularly is good news but it's still likely to have potentially damaged something.

Chances are good that it could possibly have damaged the motherboard or the graphics card, which is why we ALWAYS say that using a cheap power supply is not safe, and NEVER saves you money in the long run.

The first thing I'd probably try would be these items.

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.


Second,

go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory tab. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.


The last thing we want to look at,

for now anyhow, is the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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So, that's a green label Corsair CX unit, which means it's an older, lower quality unit that came with pretty inferior caps. Those tend to not last long when paired with high gaming cards or high demand systems even when the high demand is within the capacity requirements.

I can't say it's YOUR problem, but if that is the only unit you are relying on I'd definitely start looking for a replacement because you're going to need one if you've been using that unit more than two years.

OP changed again, to reflect PSU not CPU, which I had changed it to. Should be good now.

So, in regard to the original post, yes, a power supply that fails and sparks or lets out magic smoke can ABSOLUTELY cause damage, not just "cause damage to anything" but more like it can "cause damage to EVERYTHING". The fact that it didn't after failing spectacularly is good news but it's still likely to have potentially damaged something.

Chances are good that it could possibly have damaged the motherboard or the graphics card, which is why we ALWAYS say that using a cheap power supply is not safe, and NEVER saves you money in the long run.

The first thing I'd probably try would be these items.

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.


Second,

go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory tab. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.


The last thing we want to look at,

for now anyhow, is the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

So I've had all my drivers up to date on MSI's website and my graphics card (clean installation, tried previous versions as well, no luck), beforehand, still nothing. Latest update of my BIOS and the BIOS says the current RAM I'm using in the correct speeds. I have a spare motherboard with a i5 4700k attached to it, should I do some swapping and see if that solves my issue? Because at this point I've tried two different power supplies, test the GPU and it's running as it was before in benchmarks and MSI afterburner, but I notice my CPU has been on more of a workload and waaay higher temps than normal. For example CS:GO my CPU used to run around 40-50% with 300-400 frames, now it runs at 80-100% with a 20 C increase in temp. I think the CPU is the culprit here, considering I've tried the 2 different PSU's, different sticks of ram, tried each SSD and HDD on it's own, and even tried unplugging my DVD drive, still the same. So should I use my previous motherboard with the processor on it? It has a different chipset, which is why I also have a motherboard for it as well. Would that be my best course of action at this point? Thank you! Last I used the PC that it was in, which was a few months ago, everything worked like clockwork, so I'm thinking that's my best course of action, personally.
 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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Could it be that the replacement power supply is now adequately powering the processor? If I understood your last comment correctly, fps is back to normal just with higher cpu load correct?
No, fps is about 25% of what it used to be on every game, with the increased workload on the CPU. DayZ which is very optimized now I can barely get 25 FPS. I'm thinking the switchout on the motherboard and CPU because I don't have a higher wattage PSU currently I could put in, instead work with what I have, and if I've concluded I need to buy a new part, then I'll just do that as a last resort.
 
What are your peak CPU and GPU temps while gaming when you are seeing a lack of FPS performance?

Download HWinfo, not some other utility, ONLY HWinfo, install it, run it, choose the "Sensors only" option when prompted, then start up your game and after about five minute WHILE STILL PLAYING, bring the HWinfo window back up to the top and take a screenshot showing the CPU and GPU temperatures. It will likely take several screenshots to capture all of the sensor data, but having ALL of the sensor data that is listed is probably more helpful than ONLY have the CPU and GPU temps.

Then, post the images here, which you can do by following the instructions at the following link. Don't post a link to the images someplace else, because nobody wants to go off site just to look at pics when they can be posted IN thread here. It takes a little work on your part, but when you're getting help for free, sometimes you have to put a little work in.

 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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And you did plug the monitor back into the graphics card after replacing the PSU yes? not the motherboards onboard graphics port?
Simple but surprisingly common issue.

Otherwise some good suggestions previously, check temperatures and power connections, check the CPU clock speed is as expected, maybe reset the BIOS.
Yeah I wouldn't say I'm that blonde lol, but yes it's in the right ports. After about a 10 minute gaming session I took this screenshot. And I don't mind doing work at all, that's what I'm here for, to figure out what's going wrong exactly :)
155o3ut.png
 
I didn't mean to insinuate that YOU would mind, just that we encounter a lot of OTHER people that are too lazy to do the work that is often required. Even to bother looking at PSU labels to convey the model of the unit, and things of that nature. It wasn't meant to be a jab at you in particular.
 
So, looks like there was very little GPU utilization at the time you took those screenshots. Let's try this another way.

Start HWinfo up, then minimize it, then play your game for a while. 15 minutes or so. Then bring HWinfo back up and do another set of screenshots just like that so I can see the peak sensor readings for the whole session. I'm assuming the problem exists ALL the time right now, and doesn't come and go, but I'd still like to see a little more data.

Also, expand that column a little wider on the last screenshot so I can see the descriptions of the sensors for that last screenshot. Not sure why that one is different than the others.

Also, download CPU-Z and take screenshots of the Memory and SPD tabs. On the SPD tab you'll need to select each slot and take an individual screenshot of the specs for each stick.

One thing I see off the bat is that your memory is only running at 2133mhz. What speed are your sticks supposed to be?

Can you list your FULL system specs please, to make them easier to identify.
 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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Full System Specs
CPU: i5 7700K
GPU: Asus GTX 1060 6 GB SC
Ram: HyperX Vengeance Dual DDR4 (not sure about mhz, I think around 3800 mhz, CPU-Z is constantly changing it rapidly and dramatically)
PSU: Corsair cx series 600 watt bronze certiified 80 + power supply (V2? I think)
Motherboard: B250 M-PRO VDH LGA 1151
SSD/HDD: Western Digital 1 TB HDD, 240GB Sand Disk, 500 GB Samsung 850 Evo
Case: Coolermaster HAF 912
and a CD drive.
And btw the screenshots are after about almost 20 minutes of gameplay, consistently playing.
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4v0mqc.png
 
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Ok, so your memory modules ARE 2133mhz, so they are running at the correct speed anyhow. No issues there. I can tell by the memory part number which is listed in the CPU-Z specs.

Your GPU clock speed is not moving from 202.5Mhz and that's definitely a problem if it's right.

Try GPU-Z, run the stress test and see if the GPU clock speed is staying at 202.5Mhz or what the deal is. Based on the screenshot, I'd say that if you were running a game at any point during the time that the HWinfo window was open and recording sensor data, then your card is toast.
 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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Better yet, open HWinfo, scroll down to the GPU section, download and run Furmark, and if the GPU clock doesn't move there is a problem.
If it doesn't, does that narrow it down to an answer as to what's wrong with my computer? Like my GPU is junk?
I ran the test for 5 minutes, the clock speed stayed at 202 mhz.
 
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D

Deleted member 217926

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So to summarize if I have this correctly you had a power supply blow and now your GPU is stuck at minimum clocks?

If the card has a supplemental 6 or 8 pin PCI-E power connector is it plugged in? Try another cable if there is one.

Try resetting CMOS. Your motherboard book will tell you where the jumper is.

If those don't work try the card in another PC. Either the card or the PCI-E slot/bus could have been damaged when the old power supply blew.
 

BryceSpicey

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Dec 30, 2014
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So to summarize if I have this correctly you had a power supply blow and now your GPU is stuck at minimum clocks?

If the card has a supplemental 6 or 8 pin PCI-E power connector is it plugged in? Try another cable if there is one.

Try resetting CMOS. Your motherboard book will tell you where the jumper is.

If those don't work try the card in another PC. Either the card or the PCI-E slot/bus could have been damaged when the old power supply blew.
There's only one 6 pin connector for the GPU, but there's 2 different ones with the power supply, I'll try the other, if that doesn't work then reset the CMOS, if that doesn't work then somethings definitely fried. I'll update once done