Pay to run is not the really painful and stupid thing. That used to be a skill you got around level 15, then it was lowered for additional characters when they introduced legacies.
The really really painful and stupid things are per character purchases for things like NOT displaying your helmet, the ability to unify the colors of your gear, action bars, the ability to even wear some of the gear you find, basic bank access... the list just goes on and on.
This game is FAR more restrictive than any other F2P mmo i have played in the past few years (much worse than AoC, STO, Lotro, GW2).