[SOLVED] Strangest Wifi problems you have ever seen..

[geckovic02]

Hey there!

I have a huge and at the same time a very frustrating wifi problem.

Let me clear up some things:

Distance A: front of the router
Distance B: 5m away from router, doorway to my room
Distance C: 2 steps into my room from point B

My parents have a TV that is connected via ethernet cable (they're watching other channels with an app).

So the wifi works perfectly fine when the tv is on. Wifi signal is at 3/4 with around 70mbit/s download. In my room (point C)

Now here comes the interesting part:

While the tv is running with the app open, or just using internet, my wifi in my Room (C) is perfectly fine.
As soon as they shut the tv off, the signal instantly stops. The wifi icon still shows its connected, and even updates itself (one bar down/up). But no internet traffic at all. When I reconnect to the wifi, it only downloads something for 1 second, and imediatly stops afterwards. So youtube doesnt work, tho WEBSITES load REALLY SLOW (took me around 20s to load toms hardware).
Thats at point C. As soon as I walk out of my room and stand in the doorway (point B), I can restart the wifi on my phone and everything is working properly again. As if the range just suddenly dropped, the connection stops immediatly when in my room again.
Ethernet is working fine all the times (tested it with my pc)

I've tried following things:

Restarting router
Resetting router
Updating it
Cooling it with my aircondition (heard they can get hot)


... And nothing helped.

In my router settings it shows both 2.4ghz and 5ghz is activated? Maybe thats causing the issue and my phone cant decide with which it should connect first?

Im clueless right now.

Hope anybody had similar issues and can help me out. I finally want to watch netflix/youtube when everyone's asleep xd

EDIT:

I have a "Connect Box" from UPC Cablecom (Switzerland). Im only using that.
(Model number coming soon)

There are a couple devices:

Wifi:
3 phones (Samsung s6 edge, s6 edge + and an A5 2017)
1 Tablet (tab A)

Ethernet:
PC & PS4 (connected via powerline)
Samsung TV
Internet Radio

One thing I haven't mentioned:

It doesn't matter which device I use (tablet, my parents phone) it causes the same issues with their devices.

By that time, I had two OS's: default samsung android 8.1 and right now Lineage OS 16 (nearly bricked my device while rooting it). With both OS's I had the same issue.

 

[Ralston18]

Update your post to include make and model information for your modem and router. Or modem/router if a combo device.

Do you have full admin rights to the router? If so, check the router and it may provide some listing of all connected devices. And their respective IP addresses.

Look for both static and DHCP IP addresses.

On your computer do two things via the command prompt.

Run "ipconfig /all" without quotes and also run "arp -a" also without quotes. Post the results.

What make and model TV do your parents have? Check the User Guide/Manual for the TV's default IP address.

And as a general issue google "Roaming Agressiveness" with respect to your phone.

 

[DeauteratedDog]

Is your only client device a phone? If so, what phone (make, model, os)?

 

[geckovic02]

Update your post to include make and model information for your modem and router. Or modem/router if a combo device.

Do you have full admin rights to the router? If so, check the router and it may provide some listing of all connected devices. And their respective IP addresses.

Look for both static and DHCP IP addresses.

On your computer do two things via the command prompt.

Run "ipconfig /all" without quotes and also run "arp -a" also without quotes. Post the results.

What make and model TV do your parents have? Check the User Guide/Manual for the TV's default IP address.

And as a general issue google "Roaming Agressiveness" with respect to your phone.

Yess Im the technician in the house

There aren't any unknown devices listed there.

For the ipconfig part:
Removed link
TV: Samsung ue55ju7580

 

[geckovic02]

Is your only client device a phone? If so, what phone (make, model, os)?

updated the post.

 

[Ralston18]

Does the following User Manual link match your Connect Box router?

https://www.192-168-1-1-ip.co/manuals/9329.pdf

Verify that I found the correct manual.

Then read/work through the manual while logged into the router. Do not make any immediate changes. Just look to get a sense of the current router configuration and if that configuration (defaults or otherwise) is as you expect.

The router has only 4 wired ports and I counted four wired devices: two directly connected and the other two (PC and PS4 via power line).

My thought is that there is/was an IP conflict somewhere. However, those conflicts generally manifest when a device is turned on - not off like the TV. I.e., and assigned Static IP and a DHCP IP address are duplicated.

And either way, that does not explain why the movement from C to B brings back service. Except for one thing: you restart your phone and it then gets a new (dynamic) IP address.... Or the phone switc

Going back to something you have mentioned: what app are your parents using to watch TV and what IP address is the TV using?

What devices are connected to which ports on the router? Either directly or via powerline? No access points?

Are you able to sketch out the connections and show the assigned IP addresses (DHCP and Static)?

Sketch it out with all devices up and running: look at IP addresses being used. Turn off the TV and determine if anything changes.

Could be some "perfect storm" of sorts.

 

[geckovic02]

Does the following User Manual link match your Connect Box router?

https://www.192-168-1-1-ip.co/manuals/9329.pdf

Verify that I found the correct manual.

Then read/work through the manual while logged into the router. Do not make any immediate changes. Just look to get a sense of the current router configuration and if that configuration (defaults or otherwise) is as you expect.

The router has only 4 wired ports and I counted four wired devices: two directly connected and the other two (PC and PS4 via power line).

My thought is that there is/was an IP conflict somewhere. However, those conflicts generally manifest when a device is turned on - not off like the TV. I.e., and assigned Static IP and a DHCP IP address are duplicated.

And either way, that does not explain why the movement from C to B brings back service. Except for one thing: you restart your phone and it then gets a new (dynamic) IP address.... Or the phone switc

Going back to something you have mentioned: what app are your parents using to watch TV and what IP address is the TV using?

What devices are connected to which ports on the router? Either directly or via powerline? No access points?

Are you able to sketch out the connections and show the assigned IP addresses (DHCP and Static)?

Sketch it out with all devices up and running: look at IP addresses being used. Turn off the TV and determine if anything changes.

Could be some "perfect storm" of sorts.

First of all crazy answer. I will try to do my best and make a graphic of all devices.
One thing I found out, is that when the TV is off, my phone switches to 2.4Ghz. The 5Ghz connection is just too weak so it can stay connected (although it shows 2-3 bars). My phone just doesn't find it.

I will include a sketch of my home homelayout, escpacially to my room where the connection cuts of and only 2.4Ghz comes through.

The app doesn't matter. I can play youtube it will work aswell.

yess it's the correct manual

Sorry for the late answer we're doing homeschooling now and it takes quite a lot of time.

 

[geckovic02]

Does the following User Manual link match your Connect Box router?

https://www.192-168-1-1-ip.co/manuals/9329.pdf

Verify that I found the correct manual.

Then read/work through the manual while logged into the router. Do not make any immediate changes. Just look to get a sense of the current router configuration and if that configuration (defaults or otherwise) is as you expect.

The router has only 4 wired ports and I counted four wired devices: two directly connected and the other two (PC and PS4 via power line).

My thought is that there is/was an IP conflict somewhere. However, those conflicts generally manifest when a device is turned on - not off like the TV. I.e., and assigned Static IP and a DHCP IP address are duplicated.

And either way, that does not explain why the movement from C to B brings back service. Except for one thing: you restart your phone and it then gets a new (dynamic) IP address.... Or the phone switc

Going back to something you have mentioned: what app are your parents using to watch TV and what IP address is the TV using?

What devices are connected to which ports on the router? Either directly or via powerline? No access points?

Are you able to sketch out the connections and show the assigned IP addresses (DHCP and Static)?

Sketch it out with all devices up and running: look at IP addresses being used. Turn off the TV and determine if anything changes.

Could be some "perfect storm" of sorts.

I forgot to mention we have a modem for normal swiss channels (tho we're rarely using it). it's connected to one fo the Ports. The other two are the Internet Radio and the TV.
The last one is going to a powerline adapter and ends with the PC and PS4.

 

[geckovic02]

Does the following User Manual link match your Connect Box router?

Removed link

Verify that I found the correct manual.

Then read/work through the manual while logged into the router. Do not make any immediate changes. Just look to get a sense of the current router configuration and if that configuration (defaults or otherwise) is as you expect.

The router has only 4 wired ports and I counted four wired devices: two directly connected and the other two (PC and PS4 via power line).

My thought is that there is/was an IP conflict somewhere. However, those conflicts generally manifest when a device is turned on - not off like the TV. I.e., and assigned Static IP and a DHCP IP address are duplicated.

And either way, that does not explain why the movement from C to B brings back service. Except for one thing: you restart your phone and it then gets a new (dynamic) IP address.... Or the phone switc

Going back to something you have mentioned: what app are your parents using to watch TV and what IP address is the TV using?

What devices are connected to which ports on the router? Either directly or via powerline? No access points?

Are you able to sketch out the connections and show the assigned IP addresses (DHCP and Static)?

Sketch it out with all devices up and running: look at IP addresses being used. Turn off the TV and determine if anything changes.

Could be some "perfect storm" of sorts.

So here is the Sketch I made:

Removed Link



I turned off the TV and none of the IP adresses changed in either way. Nothing.
Everything was the same.
Im right now thinking, it's that the TV somehow works as an extender for the signal.Because it's only 1-2m, I think it's possible,
Probably going to buy a small repeater, which I can put into a power plug (There is one right at my door, where the Wifi is still fine).

If you have any other solution, or something I could try, tell me if you want.

Alright thank you for the Help @Ralston18 ! You were really competent and knew a ton of stuff.

Thumbs up!

 

[Ralston18]

With the toilet being in the wireless "line of sight" between C and the router there could be interference.

If it all originally worked the router may be losing some of its capabilities.

Two immediate suggestions:

1) try to raise the living room router a bit higher and/or reposition it one way or another. Experiment a bit to determine if a physical relocation helps. Be sure to untangle all cords and cables thereabouts and separate them to some extent.

Reason: just to improve general transmission and reception.

2) In the router's User Manual go to Page 43. Check the lease time: if the value is the default 3600 seconds and change the value to 86,400 (24 hours).

Reasons: With a short lease time devices must continually request a "refresh".

Also no need to allow the router the full range of DHCP IP addresses. I would also turn off IPv6 if that is not provided by your ISP service. That is a debatable action but would eliminate one possible variable.

What is the starting DHCP IP address? (May be 192.168.0.1 per your "ipconfig /all".) Leave that starting IP address alone if not 192.168.0.1 but change Number of CPEs to 10 (ten).

Keep track of those changes so you can undo them if something goes astray.

I strongly believe in "one change at a time" but the above settings are all easily checked and end-user configurable. However, if something is not as expected then leave alone and post accordingly.

Someone else may note some other issue or error of commission/omission on my part and likewise post. I have no problem with that.

Also: While logged into the router peruse the other administrative windows/configuration settings. Read the route manual as you review the router's admin functions. Be careful not to change anything else but try to get an expanded sense of the router's current configuration settings.

It will end up being your effort and knowledge that will eventually get the problem(s) resolved.

 

[geckovic02]

With the toilet being in the wireless "line of sight" between C and the router there could be interference.

If it all originally worked the router may be losing some of its capabilities.

Two immediate suggestions:

1) try to raise the living room router a bit higher and/or reposition it one way or another. Experiment a bit to determine if a physical relocation helps. Be sure to untangle all cords and cables thereabouts and separate them to some extent.

Reason: just to improve general transmission and reception.

2) In the router's User Manual go to Page 43. Check the lease time: if the value is the default 3600 seconds and change the value to 86,400 (24 hours).

Reasons: With a short lease time devices must continually request a "refresh".

Also no need to allow the router the full range of DHCP IP addresses. I would also turn off IPv6 if that is not provided by your ISP service. That is a debatable action but would eliminate one possible variable.

What is the starting DHCP IP address? (May be 192.168.0.1 per your "ipconfig /all".) Leave that starting IP address alone if not 192.168.0.1 but change Number of CPEs to 10 (ten).

Keep track of those changes so you can undo them if something goes astray.

I strongly believe in "one change at a time" but the above settings are all easily checked and end-user configurable. However, if something is not as expected then leave alone and post accordingly.

Someone else may note some other issue or error of commission/omission on my part and likewise post. I have no problem with that.

Also: While logged into the router peruse the other administrative windows/configuration settings. Read the route manual as you review the router's admin functions. Be careful not to change anything else but try to get an expanded sense of the router's current configuration settings.

It will end up being your effort and knowledge that will eventually get the problem(s) resolved.

1) We can't really move it around, as the next best hight would be 1.5m on a shelve. I'll try around with some books underneath it, could be hard as the ethernet cables are already on max. length.

2) I'll try it today and see if it helps.


I was lucky (or not depending how you see it) that my father is going to do homeoffice. Because of that, we ordered a new powerline set with Wifi integraded. It creates a "Mesh" across the entire flat with a max of 1200mbit/s.
One of these end adapters is definitely going straight to my room.

I'll remove the links with the IP-Adresses, as I don't want them to be open to everyone.

I really appreciated your help and will give you an update wether the lease time change did something.

best regards

 

[Ralston18]

Okay on removing IP addresses per se.

However within your network the router is likely using one of three available IP address ranges.

Those address ranges are well known and commonly used.

It is your public IP address that should not be published and you should also mask the latter part of MACs.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

You can easily find similar links regarding the subject.

Removing links; i.e., internal (Private) IP addresses may be counter-productive.,

My router is 192.168.1.1 (subnet 255.255.255.0). The next 10 IP addresses are reserved for static IP use, and the next 16 IP addresses or so are the allowed DHCP IP address range. I tend to keep both ranges small with only the range I need for my network and then a couple of "guests".

Other IP address schemes are used as necessary for any given network's requirements. Sometimes IP addressing can get a bit mixed up and problems result.