Hi, I run 2x GTX 1080 Sea Hawk in SLI and for the past months there were no issues, but suddenly one of the cards was idlying at 60 then as soon as I started a game would jump to 95 in seconds. I tried clean installing drivers but nothing, took out the good card but the temps were still high.
Any suggestions?
One of the many problems with CLC type hybrids is that there's no visual indicator that the system is working. Pump may have failed, loop might have an air pocket nut CLCs offer no way to bleed, might have clogged from galvanic corrosion from the violation of water cooling rule No. 1 ... no mixed metals.
The Seahawk EK version eliminates all of these weaknesses and also cools the VRM / memory but it needs to be combined with a OLC type AIO (Swiftech / EK) which is expandable. All you can do at this point is contact MSI tech support, have them work you thru any troubleshootiung prcedures thay mught have and when unsuccessful, they will issue an RMA.
One of the many problems with CLC type hybrids is that there's no visual indicator that the system is working. Pump may have failed, loop might have an air pocket nut CLCs offer no way to bleed, might have clogged from galvanic corrosion from the violation of water cooling rule No. 1 ... no mixed metals.
The Seahawk EK version eliminates all of these weaknesses and also cools the VRM / memory but it needs to be combined with a OLC type AIO (Swiftech / EK) which is expandable. All you can do at this point is contact MSI tech support, have them work you thru any troubleshootiung prcedures thay mught have and when unsuccessful, they will issue an RMA.
''the past months there were no issues, but suddenly one of the cards was idlying at 60 then as soon as I started a game would jump to 95 in seconds'
seems like a good indicator to me ''the pump failed''
ya, would be nice to have a meter like as for the fan speed or something to keep a eye on that for sure .. all that software you get and can use and nothing for the pump monitoring ..
''the past months there were no issues, but suddenly one of the cards was idlying at 60 then as soon as I started a game would jump to 95 in seconds'
seems like a good indicator to me ''the pump failed''
ya, would be nice to have a meter like as for the fan speed or something to keep a eye on that for sure .. all that software you get and can use and nothing for the pump monitoring ..
Yes, pump could have failed, but what I have also run into over the years ...
... pump could also be air bound
....pump plug could not be all the way on the connector.
....something could be blocking water flow
With the EK version of the Seahawk you can see the water flow in the block ... with the Swiftech OLC, you can see the water movement in the reservoir.
ya , thing is like evga its rma if you cant tinker a fix
the ek is for a full loop these are not ..
'' ... pump could also be air bound'' more to first run issues when new should be a non issue after months of normal use
I guess he could of knocked the plug loose out of the blue after months of use ?? hard to believe it just fell off on its own ??
''....something could be blocking water flow'' well if that's the case and you do get to loose you can figure it will clog it back up all over
in the end its a RMA these are factory sealed units and pretty much not serviceable . out side of that plug coming off that's pretty much a RMA to resolve these cards
you know hind site being 20/20 a lesson I learned with this evga is I should not of bought the factory hybrid card .. I should of bought the best air cooled card on the hybrids kit compatibility list and then added the cooler then if the pump fails or any cooler issue all I have to do is put the air cooler back on and keep my card and no down time waiting on rma just send the hybrid cooler in under its own warrantee..
so I I were to get jacked around on the rma I still have my original card still working on air not looking at a total loss
cause if the pump fails I got to rma the whole card in and be with out or then hope the card they send back is 1/2 as good as the card I sent in to them
I see at evga guys rma a hybrid 2 or 3 times before they get back a card there satisfied with
1. There's a difference in what we can conceive should happen and what we observe actually does happen.... after 25 years of PC building, I am continually surprised when I come home and find a PC sitting on my workbench.
When I build a custom loop, or AIO, I will bleed it:
a) Immediately after completion
b) After 48 hours
c) After 6 months
We will not install a CLC.
Over time the coolant will continue to "off gas".... and the gas will sometimes be re absorbed...this process continues forever. In a closed system you may have 3 bubbles spaced throughout the loop, or stuck in the radiator (high point) where they may sit for months and months. Move the box, or from vibration, this bubble may get knocked loose and get lodged in the pump.... not an everyday thing but not by any means something that we haven't seen before.
2. You have a aluminum rad and copper block... there is no way to avoid this from occurring, the only difference is the extent which it occurs.
As for choices... other options you might consider:
a) Asus Poseidon w/ OLC type AIO ... you can start off with the AIO just cooling the CPU and when ready, add some tubing and cool the card. And unlike a hybrid, memory and VRMs are water cooled. And ya can go back to air any time ya want.
b) If nervous about installing a water block can install Seahawk EM model w/ full cover WB installed for you. Easily connects to an OLC type AIO
c) Buy a water block... not much more than a hybrid and full cover block cools memory and VRMs. Easily connects to an OLC type AIO ... get two and add a radiator for noise levels no hybrid can approach.
With any of these options, you don't RMA the whole shebang, if the pump fails, they send you a new one... pay the $19 for ON mail and return the old one after the new one installed.
and this aint no cold room I'm in. gets pretty warm in here .
''With any of these options, you don't RMA the whole shebang, if the pump fails, they send you a new one.''
you can do that with a hybrid just buy the compatible air card and the kit , same thing
I learned that the hard way from seeing how evga is handling this from guys whos units went out at there forums
just some folks do not want or need a full system loop , like me
I don't understand what you are trying to say or why you introduced non-existant conditions into the discussion ... where did this abuse / tap water thing come from ? The pictures are from a system with distilled water and corrosion inhibitors which were replaced on a regular basis. Using pure distilled water in a loop leaves you with a galvanic cell as ions from the metals leach out over time creating an electrolyte ... these metals react with water releasing gas which contributes to air pockets ... this is simply water chemistry. Closing a loop at a factory does not change the laws associated with water chemistry. Yes we can add corrosion inhibitors to a loop just like we do in our cars which will inhibit / slow but not stop galvanic corrosion. But there's a big difference here:
a) In our cars, we change the coolant every 18 months and if we follow the recommended procedures, we also flush out the radiator using specific cleaners designed to loosen, treat and flush out any corrosion that has occurred. If we do this responsibly, collecting and properly disposing of the used coolant and flush water, we find a nice collection of crud in the bottom of the drain pan. The corrosion inhibitors in the original coolant have lost their effectiveness over time which is the primary reason why it's replaced.
b) In our custom loops and OLCs, we change the coolant every 18 months and if we follow the recommended procedures, we also flush out the radiator using specific cleaners designed to loosen, treat and flush out any corrosion that has occurred. If we do this responsibly, collecting and properly disposing of the used coolant and flush water, we again find a nice collection of crud in the bottom of the drain pan. In an OLC, the option is available to not change the coolant, but you should add corrosion inhibitors as the original stuff's effectiveness is gone.
c) In a CLC, we can't change or augment anything ... the corrosion inhibitors at 18 months have passed their useful life and galvanic corrosion will occur unchecked. The manufacturer bet is that you have moved onto a new model with the latest bling bling rather than re-use the same parts in a 2nd build, then a 3rd....
So yes, if ya have never drained, flushed and replaced ya coolant, it's easy to go on believing that all is beloved patriot dory inside that loop, but the reality check is ... it's not. Granted those pics are an extreme case, but again, there's no stopping corrosion which is dependent on the difference in galvanic potential . In power plants, plant owners budget thousands of dollars a year in just water chemistry testing to maintain their cooling systems by having the proper water chemistry maintained via inhibitors and additives which are added ona regular basis.
I'm also lost with how when any component of the CLC fails, you are not tasked with "RMA'ing the whole shebang". It's a single thing, no separating the pump, block and radiator. An OLC is an assemblage of custom loop all copper / brass components (pump, radiator, block, fittings and tubing) any one of which may be removed and replaced. yes you can go back to the original air cooler provided you don't mind the time and expense of buying 2 coolers and multiple tubes of TIM. Using gelid extreme (our choice for GPU TIM) , that's $24 and 4 hours of my time. (2 applications for 1st replacing the air cooler in order to RMA and then replacing the kit when it arrives) ... tho to be fair, if doing just the GPU (as opposed to GPU + memory + VRMs) ya won't benefit from the longer usability of Gelid and Shin Etsu ($8 for 2 tubes). By contrast w/ a OLC type all in one water cooler
I can arrange to have the pump replaced, individually *
I can arrange to have the radiator replaced, individually *
I can arrange to have the CPU block replaced, individually *
I can arrange to have the GPU block replaced, individually *
I can arrange to have the tubing replaced, individually *
* ... and they will ship the item 1st, and broken one goes back in box they provided
You can't do that with CLC, to replace any of those items, the whole shebang must go back.
And with the 7xx and to a lesser extent w/ 9xx series ... we often find that the OC is not limited by GPU temps in any way .. but OC stability was determined by VRM temps which of course the hybrids do nothing to improve and, in some cases, made worse.
I would say that the only folks who **need** a custom loop are those like myself who find value in the absence if any noise whatsoever emanating from the PC no matter what the load. If some noise is permissible,then simply put, CLCs can in no way compete with air cooling on the CPU.... and OLC vs CLC is about as "no contest" as it can get ... a $150 OLC with all copper / brass components at idle outperforms a $160 CLC at full pump and fan speeds.... the CLC can match the CPU temps but to do so must be 5 times as loud.
With GPUs, it's hard to make across the board judgements as the rules change by generation of card. With 10xx, Boost 3 is like a governor on an engine ... limiting speed to 60 mph regardless of engine HP or gearing. As long as the card isn't throttling, we see pretty much the same performance whether GPU is at 81C or 50C. When we get down near 40, we see a small increase in core clocks, but the frustrating this is, there's little to no fps increase coming with it.
Well I guess it's certain that MSI with the lowest core and lowest memory speeds will finish last. Whaddya think ?
BF1 Speeds at 1440p at maximum OC
Gigabyte with the highest memory clock finished dead last at 209.1
Asus with the highest core clock finished next last at 214.2
MSI with the lowest core and memory clocks on top with 214.3
Until we have a 10xx series BIOS editor, water cooling for increased fps performance remains a quest for the holy grail ... much sought after, rarely if ever achieved.
But again, my main purpose for water cooling is the reduction in noise generated. With eyes closed you can not determine whether system is on or off. Managed a 23% GPU OC on my custom loop (5 x 140mm rads,10 rad fans / 6 case fans) w/ SLI'd Asus 780s (temps in high 30s under Furmark) ... but the very next build w/ an air cooled MSI 780 managed 25% OC with temps near 80C
I know what galvanic corrosion is but what I don't under why are you using parts that do that to start with and are use in the manufacture of them loop units to start with ?? that's the best part to me in all that
when I was a industrial plumber we all know that and had to use a special fitting to separate like from copper pipe to steel for a example [ dielectric coupling ]
'' if there is some other interruption in the conductive path, there cannot be galvanic corrosion and each metal will corrode at its normal rate in that service ''
why don't you try that then I guess they cant sell loops as fast if so or all that maintainace supplies for upkeep
so if you don't run a loop you don't have them worries ?? that's how I see it no mess no fuss on air and with todays fans noise aint that much a factor and as far as maintenance just blow the dust out what ever necessary
as far as replacing I guess rma times are all about the same individually or the whole unit ?? unless you got extra parts all ready handy like I could buy a extra hybrid pump and keep on the shelve as well ?
thing is this guy the OP the seahawk used the corsair h55 cpu cooler on them up in till that revision for the 10 series I guess they seen that the original was not working out on the 10 series
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