JackNaylorPE :
Things I'd ponder before building that box...... not criticisms, just thoughts why I personally might go another way and considering I'm looking today rather than weeks ago when these items were selected.
1. I have two 780s and Furmark pulls 712 watts "at the wall" (at moderate OC) with CPU stock profile selected at boot, it's consuming CPU TDB of just just 40 watts. Add the 100 watts for a 4770k at 4.6Hz @ 1.4 v and that's 812. Allow for the 90% PSU efficiency and that's 731 watts. That's way too close for my comfort.....Keeping in mind that PSUs hit maximum efficiency at the 50% load mark, while ya might not be concerned about the power cost, the efficiency reduction also means more heat. Not a big thing .... just a few % points ... but still worth noting. Another thought .... if you allow for degradation of caps over time at say 15% as some recommend .... you at 840. Finally, the closer you get to full load, the greater the variance on voltage stability and increased ripple. The HX series contains some great units however, (except for the 1000 and 1050 which are dogs) and I'm sure the HX750 has plenty of headroom above it's rated capacity. Still ..... I'd feel more comfy spending an extra $20 for the HX850 which would still be well below budget.
2. A reference GFX card at $520 ?. The Gigabyte Windforce, Asus DCII and MSI Gaming N series have consistently been at $520 or less since October. I'd want the custom PCB and multiphase VRMs on the non-reference cards so as to allow for lower VRM temps when overclocked.
3. Often MoBo choices depend upon brand loyalty and feature sets that attract different users so its a very personal decision. When doing a $2k box, my recommended MoBo budget is generally $175ish (MSI GD65 is a popular choice among my users) which makes any comparison I'd make to the build a bit unfair. I also get a lotta users choosing the G45. But newegg combos. MIRs or other specials generally make this decision in the end.
4. Memory is a bit of a PITA as prices and availability are all over the place. Again, I think more peeps buy on brand loyalty than on any detailed consideration of (Speed / CAS) specs and how either will change things in the particular usage scenario. This week was asked to use a 2400 CAS11 set from Mushkin for a user that was $150ish (price kinda surprised me).... Corsair's Vengeance Pro 1866 CAS 9 is usually $150ish of late (in some colors) but while higher end stuff has had attractive prices, it's very difficult to find in stock....so worth checking to see what's available on buy day .... I have sometimes found CAS 9 2133 at same price as 1866 at the same price.
5. I have been getting lotsa e-mails from vendors in the last month regarding EVOs at $155 - $170 and Pros at $200 so that's something to consider buying today. My guess is however this build had parts selected before than. I use a lot of those Seagate drives, tho usually the 3 TB model..... no complaints. On may office lappies however, I started using Seagate's SSHDs a while back because got tired of peeps asking me to clean off the junk and make room on their C drives. We have found them completely indistinguishable (aside from benchmarks) from using separate SSDs and HDs with only about a second difference ion boot times (noticeable only with a stopwatch) and have started using them on desktops too.... Gamers who store games on their HD and OS on SSD may find benefit to the small price increase ($30)
1) Furmark doesn't put a big load on the CPU, but it does put some so it's not sitting idle. You can't just add 100W for the CPU on top of a Furmark run to get a full load estimate.
Also, efficiency between 90% and 100% load on a Gold 80 PSU is spec'd around 87% ( though some models have better than spec efficiency. ) The 802 watts pulled is actually closer to 705 watts delivered to the internals. That particular PSU can handle up to 744W on the 12V rail alone. Yes, it's a heavy load, but that's only happening on a torture test. Heavy gaming is only drawing 682W, which is about 80% load on the PSU. If you were mining with this rig, or wanted it at full-tilt most of the time, then stepping up to an 850W PSU makes sense. Otherwise the 750W is adequate.
2) Tom has said multiple times in the past that he's a fan of blower GPU coolers because they fully exhaust heat. The blowers also serve two purposes in this particular build. First, since Haswell is such a finicky OCer, I can understand that he didn't want recycled exhaust heat from the GPUs in the case. Second, blowers make cooling less a headache with SLI configs due to the limited space between cards.
3) Fair enough, but if you're trying to cram as much as possible into the build, dropping to a $125 board makes sense. ASRock's Extreme4 line is very respectable and hardly a sacrifice in terms of mboard features.
4) Again, fair enough. RAM prices seem a little volatile right now. But as Newegg has to be the vendor for these, those are the prices you have to go by.
5) Hybrid drives offer some great trade-offs for people who want the simplicity. But hybrids are still limited by the size of the cache. Your boot sequence will always take up some of the cache, and if you bounce between a lot of programs, then you won't see as much gain since the cache is shifting a lot. In laptops with limited drive bays, they're a no-brainer. But in a desktop where I can easily fit multiple drives, I'll pay extra for separate boot and data drives. And if you don't want to bother with multiple drive letters, I'd rather get a 30GB - 60GB SSD and set it up as a HDD cache.