Question System crashing with new CPU ?

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gabecz

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Jan 21, 2022
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Hi
I had a weak sausage loaner cpu of a 12700T until i found what i wanted, a 12700KF
I updated my bios to 1813, and reset it to defaults, however didn't reinstall Windows just yet so that can be a factor.
All i set was XMP I so the full power (7200mhz) of the ram gets unleashed.

I'm getting random bsods and i didn't even put the computer on heavy load which i would. Prime95 & furmark for like 1hour i don't see the point of a longer test personally. Speaking of how to test VRAM? all i see going up with furmark is 3D and compute to go up but not vram.

I will install a fresh windows before i go any deeper with the testing.
i just started prime95 and the temperature instantly jumped from 38C to 90C and bsod 🙁 screen with flickers and reboot.
Can that mean that my thermal paste that i applied is old/dry? or is that a normal thing with 12700KF?
well that's disappointing.
begs for the question if i'd feel the difference at all if i'd lover the mhz to 6000.


Asus PRIME Z790-P WIFI, i7-12700K, g.skill Trident Z5 RGB DDR5-7200, Gigabyte RX 9070, sddptqd-256g-1012, mz-vpw2560, cv1-8b256, ct256mx100ssd1, samsung 2tb ssd, Ironwolf 12Tb, Corsair RM750x, Musetex Y6, 9x Thermalright TL-C12C-S
dark rock 4 cpu cooler
 
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We advise users to pass on their specs into the thread's body. Reasoning behind that is due to the fact that sig space specs can and will change over time and when that happens, it renders this thread and it's relevant suggestions moot to the end user in the same boat as you're in.

I updated my bios
For the sake of relevance, please state the BIOS version you were on and what you'd updated to prior to the CPU upgrade.

however didn't reinstall Windows just yet
If you don't swap motherboard's, you don't need to reinstall the OS.

i just started prime95 and the temperature instantly jumped from 38C to 90C and bsod screen with flickers and reboot.
We're going to need to know how you're cooling the processor and the make and model of your motherboard.

and reset it to defaults
You mean you cleared the CMOS? Ideally, you're advised to disconnect from the wall and display, then remove the CMOS battery, press and hold down the power button for 30secs to drain any residual power, then reseat the CMOS battery after 30mins.

Can that mean that my thermal paste that i applied is old/dry?
Did you reapply thermal paste after the CPU was swapped?

All i set was XMP I so the full power (7200mhz) of the ram gets unleashed.
Perhaps the memory controller is being over taxed, bring it down to DDR5-6000MHz and see if that helps.
 
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thanks!
new bios version 1813, i must add that this whole setup is quite new. other than the drives i pretty much bought everything in the last month little by little.
i will test it on 6000mhz.
yeah didn't seem legit to have problems only by popping in a new cpu which is 'the same' but unlocked. i will still reinstall windows because why not.
i meant that yes. the 30second thing with bios reset.
i feel like first testing everything on absolute default. 4800mhz ram. to rule out hardware failure.

after swapping cpus i collected the old paste because i put it on about 2 or 3 weeks ago so it was basically new. plus i added more paste it didn't seem enough.
assuming i can apply thermal paste for about the 50th time throughout the last 28 years, jumping from 40 to 90 within seconds feels a little dramatic increase. i will take off the heatsink though to check the quality and quantity of the grease. i'm using cooler master thermal compound kit silver cream i have no further info on it.

mobo is Asus PRIME Z790-P WIF cpu is 12700KF

update: simple as that i just rebooted the computer and let it sit on the login screen and it silently died no response from mouse/keyboard. sigh.
 
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Just some observations:

That cooler is on the edge of being able to successfully cool the unlocked processor under load. It's also possible the BIOS is running the CPU without a power limit at which point the cooler would be insufficient. Making sure it's using the Intel 190W power limit would be a good idea here.

Cleaning off the cooler and CPU completely before re-pasting would also be a good step if you're removing the cooler again.

DDR5-7200 is at the edge of ADL's memory controller capability and may require manual tuning to operate correctly (testing at 4800 would eliminate this potential issue)

OCCT has some video memory tests, but I'm not sure if it would pickup everything.
 
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an update after resetting the bios again (and leaving everything at default), reinstalling windows, it did not crash, not once.
first thing i'll do is to set memory to 6000 and test it.
i'll think about new cooler.. your Assassin 140 looks nice
 
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it's ridiculously cheap for its 'performance' i bought the dark rock 2-3 years ago for pretty much the same $ it's odd that as of today DR4 is more expensive than PA140.
sadly the 140mm doesn't have any digital/rgb version. i do love this "Peerless Assassin 120 Digital ARGB Black" though people are complaining it being a little loud. i read 2 tdps one saying 245 the other 265 so it may even be okay.
i keep on browsing. since i have an aquarium for computer case it'd be great to have some fancy data/rgb/something
 
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i haven't bought brand new cooler in my life so i have to ask does it come with thermal paste?


speaking of.. remember the zalman VF900 and VF1000 gpu coolers? they were badass
 
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i'm running prime "blend of all above" and see how it goes but so far (after 2 minutes) it's still running.. fans spin like crazy but that's what they're there for. cpu is bouncing between 85-95C
95 feels a little too much.
i choose XMP1 profile, and Intel fail safe, and Auto - Let BIOS Optimize. where as last time i think i said remove all restrictions or whatever the phrase is. but i think i have tried the failsafe/let bios optimize combo as well
and.... btw i forgot but i have switched mobo from Asus PRIME Z790-V WiFi to Asus PRIME Z790-F without reinstalling windows.
since i started typing it's been like 5 minutes, still running.
i take a shower and see if it's still on and running when i'm done.
fan speed goes up and down. i don't like it. i hope while playing games it will be more consistent. of course when playing i won't use 100% cpu + 100% ram. this is a stress test i get that.
the good news is that i touched the cpu cooler heatsink and it's 37C warm (used a touchless body temp measure) so the heat is being transfered. i hope.
 
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gabecz said:
i haven't bought brand new cooler in my life so i have to ask does it come with thermal paste?
Click to expand...
It does and while I didn't like the viscosity it's a good performing paste.
gabecz said:
speaking of.. remember the zalman VF900 and VF1000 gpu coolers? they were badass
Click to expand...
Yeah the after market GPU coolers were really interesting and I'm sad that market died even if I understand why. I really wanted a better cooler for my 1660 Ti (MSI Ventus), but there wasn't anything on the market that didn't cost too much compared to the card itself.
 
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thestryker said:
It does and while I didn't like the viscosity it's a good performing paste.

Yeah the after market GPU coolers were really interesting and I'm sad that market died even if I understand why. I really wanted a better cooler for my 1660 Ti (MSI Ventus), but there wasn't anything on the market that didn't cost too much compared to the card itself.
Click to expand...
Sadly they put the warranty patch so you can't really remove the factory heatsink/cooler anyways so i think that's a strong reason why manufacturers stopped caring about after market gpu coolers
 
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You think the pa120 argb would be significantly better than my current one or just slightly? If no real difference I'd just keep on browsing for a more efficient one that suits my needs
 
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I use a PA120 SE on my 12700K and it's great. I have it locked to stock power and haven't seen temps over the low 80s and that's in a case with meager overall airflow. On a long term (>10 hrs straight) 40% load it stays in the 50s. I think I'm using MX-5 paste on it (it's either that or what came with it) as I haven't gotten around to switching to PTM.

The PS120 would also be a good option for you (performance should be at worst the same as PA120, but typically a bit better) if you like the look more or it's cheaper.
 
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odd enough that with the new system i only get 60hz. always something... physically i changed nothing. didn't move a wire.
i just ordered a 2.1b ultra high speed cable. i only had a very basic one. maybe the beefy cpu made the gpu more needy.. idk.
up to date win10, whql amd driver, everything up to date and installed. first i downloaded all the drivers from the website, extracted the zips, and installed the "unknown device" drivers by selecting the folder including subfolders. then i used asus driver hub. and amd whql 25.3.1 with "driver only" option. i read the other 2 options causing trouble.
my tv detects the computer as PC and game mode is not turned on, but like i said i haven't changed anything on the tv/cabling.
i'll just wait until the quality cable arrives and see how it goes from there.
 
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new system up 144hz working.
but.. https://ibb.co/yc8cz6Nm little by little workesrs fail.
i did test my older cpu putting it back and performing a "load optimized defaults" then set XMP I, Intel fail safe, and Auto - Let BIOS Optimize like before but now workers fail.
only when memory is also tested if only cpu is under heavy load it's all ok.
not that any game any time soon will use 32gb ram on 7200mhz. but i let it be as is, and will see if games exit.
not sure what i forgot/miss to set back to where it was when it didn't fail.
i still need to update/install all the up to date drivers using asus web-solution, and windows updates though. but i have no real hopes fixing this system-wise i must be missing something in the bios i did last time.
i'll look for an 'export settings' option once i get it right..
 
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i will test that one.
am i thinking/feeling it right that if i enable intel fail safe, and do a stress test on the memory controller and it doesn't get the right amount of voltage for xyz time it just stops/fails/reduces, then prime95 rounds too much and fails?
still thinking that i may am on the low side of the power supply need but then again i don't test the video card simultaniously so it's kind of impossible that i run out of juice.
the psu is kind of old but was never or not much used. Corsair RM750x i'd try my TX850 but it's a misery to take out all the cables and put in the new ones just for one test..

runs 100%fine on 6600 mhz, and failed once after quite a long test on 6800. so i'm running on 6800. i'm not doing anything very sensitive that would make me cry my pillow wet if i lose some data because of a sudden bsod.

i ordered this from amazon B0DQFYBSD6 i read that no real difference in 140 and 120 and that in the 140 there's one fan 140 the other 120 which is weird tbh. i do like that the heatsinks on the 140 are bigger though. i hope i won't regret the 120 but i just HAD to get the one with fancy lights and useless temperature data i don't see from my couch anyways 😀
 
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Well this is dumb.

https://ibb.co/hRJWmSj8
Pic is hard to decode but the sink+fan is all over all ram slots and isn't up high enough so it won't fit the traditional way blowing backwards.
I'll install it blowing upwards. That way the sink isn't in contact with the cpu for about 0.2mm on both shorter sides. Impossible to guess but it's certainly not 100% coverage.
But I think that's acceptable.

Temp low-mid80s instead of 97-100C on 2nd option in prime95 (maxum heat/power)
Much more silent. So.. It's ok i guess.
My final setting for the memory got to be 6600 that produces no error at all. Oh well. I don't think any game would produce visually markable difference and ram price difference was not significant.
I'll just upload a photo of the final setup in the next post
 
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Is it the heatsink part or just the fan? I had to raise the fan on my PA140 to clear the DRAM. I don't think I had to do that with my PA120, but those DIMMs are bare so they're really short.

Here's a pic of my PA140 fan installation:
fZA81e6.jpeg
 
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i do believe the heatsink also was in the way not just the fan. but now looking at the pictures of the product online and seeing that 'step' probably designed to make room for the ram got me confused.
i thought the fans needed to sit leveled with the end of the heatsink because of the top thing but now i see it the "outside" fan can go up higher. hm.
i may just got upset/angry that it didn't just ....fit.
thanks for the suggestions i take it off/out and try it again tomorrow.

there's just one point here, if is it worth to lose that much fan-air-cooling just to have it sideways (the 'right' way)? for if i put the fan higher, not all of the air will go through those.. blades. but there must be a good reason pretty much all the coolers are designed that way.

anyways now that the bottom is in it's not a big deal to try.

Gallery
 
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so it worked out well. lifting the fan. actually now it is on the exact level of the top informative platform so it looks just fine.
i will take photos when the sun goes down the glass reflects everything but what's inside the box now.

Gallery
 
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