To provide that slightly more complete picture as you suggest, here is the form with my responses:
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Now we know what we're dealing with and can give you accurate suggestions.
My objective is to create a similar machine that has similar longevity/future proofing regarding performance specs. Not top end, but good.
Core i7 back then was top-end. So....
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Budget Range: About $400 to 600 for the CPU/MB combination before adding memory and a new C drive.
Besides the two builds by helper800, here's 3rd option as well;
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($479.00 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B850 EAGLE WIFI6E ATX AM5 Motherboard ($172.93 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Viper Venom 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($168.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $931.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-04-08 01:40 EDT-0400
Few words;
CPU - The best gaming CPU currently out there.
Review:
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-9800x3d/
R7 7800X3D is 2nd best gaming CPU out there, while R7 9800X3D is current king. And it would hold up for the future very well.
R7 7800X3D is still solid gaming CPU, but depending on a game you play on 1080p, FPS diff could be up to 30 FPS in favor of R7 9800X3D.
Testing results:
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-9800x3d/18.html
CPU cooler - King of air coolers. None are better, especially at that price point. So, it is essentially the only option (unless you want to pay far more money for negligible difference if you go with e.g Noctua or any AIO water cooler).
MoBo - Currently solid value option. Though, most AM5 socket MoBos are easily 200+ bucks, so, it is hard to find sub-200 MoBo. It is B850 chipset, so, almost the best you could currently pick for AMD (AM5) MoBo. The best would be X870/X870E chipset, but those cost far more money. As of what you'd be giving up; some PCI-E lanes, few USB ports and a bit slower wi-fi (6E vs 7).
AM5 chipset comparison:
https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/chipsets/am5.html#specs
RAM - For AM5 platform, current sweet spot in terms of frequency is 6000 MT/s. 6400 MT/s tops. So, put in 2x 16GB (32GB) 6400 MT/s RAM, with CL32 (1st word latency 10ns). It is double the amount of RAM what you currently have, so, i think it would suffice. But if you do need more RAM at future date, buying new RAM and replacing it is far easier than e.g replacing CPU. So, to keep current costs down, i didn't include 2x 32GB (64GB) RAM.
SSD - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB. IMO, the most reliable and durable SSD out there. (All Samsung SSDs are actually known for their reliability and durability). Sure, the Crucial T500 does outperform 990 Pro a tiny bit,
review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/crucial-2tb-t500-ssd-review/2
But i, personally, am not that confident in Crucial reliability. I'm using Samsung drives myself (both 2.5" SATA SSD and M.2 PCI-E 3.0 SSDs) and they all have hold up for many years thus far. The oldest M.2 Samsung drive i have (960 Evo) is now 7 years old. While the oldest Samsung 2.5" SATA SSD i have (850 Evo) is 8 years old now. And they still work fine.
Overall, your call on which M.2 SSD to go for.
990 Pro review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/samsung-990-pro-ssd-review
Since i'm in the same boat as you currently are (need to upgrade my systems as well), i'm planning to go with the very same CPU, CPU cooler and M.2 SSD as well. Though, i'm looking towards more feature rich (and expensive) MoBo myself, while going with cheaper 2x 8GB (16GB) RAM, which i plan to upgrade at later date.
Do you need to buy OS: No
Do note that with new build (new MoBo), you need to make a new, clean Win installation. And depending on which version of OS you currently have (retail or OEM), you may or may not buy a new license.
Since my builds are using OEM licenses, i have to buy new Win licenses as well.
Here's a guide on how to activate Win11 license,
link:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us...e-b399-2820fda32227#windowsversion=windows_11
Now, if your current Win10 license is retail, then you can link it to your Micro$oft account and use the same license key again, by 1st deactivating license on your current build. But if you have OEM version of Win, then new license is only option. Unless you want to use Win11 without activation (which you can, but you then can't use any personalization options and Win will annoy you on daily basis to activate it.)
I suggest that you look into new PSU as well. Preferably during this upgrade but ideally when you go with new GPU.
AX850 was one of the best PSUs money could buy, back in 2010, when it launched. It uses Seasonic X-series platform (the 1st ATX PSU in the world to achieve 80+ Gold efficiency). And it has 7 years of warranty. As of today, your PSU is 15 years old. Twice the warranty period (that's the Seasonic reliability for you). Still, no PSU lasts for forever and i suggest that you look towards new PSU sooner than later.
(My 3x PCs are also powered by Seasonic. I have 2x PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specs with pics in my sig.)
As of which PSU to go for, that depends on which GPU you go for.
On Nvidia side;
E.g RTX 5090/4090 needs 1200W PSU, preferably one with ATX 3.0 standard. 1500/1600W PSU would be preferred.
RTX 5080/ 4080/4080 Super/3090/3090 Ti needs 1000W PSU.
RTX 5070 Ti/3070/3080/3080 Ti needs 850W PSU.
RTX 4070 Ti/4070 Ti Super needs 750W PSU.
RTX 4070/4070 Super/4060 Ti/3060/3060 Ti needs 650W PSU.
RTX 4060 needs 550W PSU.
RTX 5060 is still upcoming and we don't know it's actual power draw.
So, when you have new GPU in mind and know it's power consumption, then you can buy yourself a proper wattage PSU as well.
I suggest getting the ATX 3.x version PSU.
Further reading:
https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/
But ATX 2.2 and ATX 2.5 PSUs also work. But with those, you need to over-provision wattage wise, to create enough buffer for GPU transient power spikes.
Overclocking: Probably not and if I do, it will be later in the machine’s life. I bought that capability with my current system, but never tried it. If overclocking is not available in a really good preforming MB and that saves me a bunch of money, I likely won't miss it.
Almost all AM5 socket MoBos support CPU OC (except A620 and B840 chipsets).
With Intel CPUs, you need to have CPU that supports OC. Namely the K-suffix. But with AMD and the latest AM5 socket CPUs, as long as MoBo supports CPU OC - you can OC your CPU. Regardless the chip you use. In that sense, AMD is more flexible with CPU OC.
Usually when CPU OC is done, it is all core OC, negating the effects of different Turbo Boost ratios on different core amounts.
But on the flip side, the latest CPUs are so fine tuned that they have little, if any OC headroom (frequencies over max turbo ratio).
Back in the day, with older CPUs, CPU OC was worthwhile.
E.g i have i5-6600K with 3.5 GHz base and 3.9 Ghz boost. With CPU OC, i could get it 4.5 Ghz all core (increase of 600 Mhz over boost), or with delid, ~4.7 Ghz all core (800 Mhz over boost). And there have been some delidded i5-6600K CPUs, that can hold 5 Ghz all core.
Essentially from Intel 12th gen and onwards, most chips out there can only hold all core stable 100-300 Mhz over max boost. That gain is so little, that CPU OC with current, highly efficient chips, isn't worthwhile. There won't be any meaningful performance increase.
If the headroom would be bigger, like it is with my 6th gen CPU, where on minimum, i look towards 600 Mhz increase over boost clocks (or up to 1.1 Ghz over boost, if very lucky with delidded chip), then CPU OC makes sense.
All-in-all, CPU OC is dying niche and outside of record breaking, isn't worth the effort anymore. Better to run stock clocks and let CPU to decide when to turbo up. Less energy waste and less heat production this way also. Not to mention CPU lifespan, since when running stock clocks, CPU lifespan is easy 10+ years. Running all core OC 24/7 will reduce CPU lifespan considerably. E.g if i were to run 4.5 Ghz on my i5-6600K, i could cut the CPU lifespan in half. And when running CPU at high OC levels, the absolute maximum CPU is able to run at (e.g ~4.7 Ghz on my i5-6600K), you can burn out the chip in 1-2 years.
Multiple GPUs: Possibly, but probably not. Regardless, two PCIe slots for video card is preferred.
Nvidia SLI and AMD Crossfire is dead.
When it did work, there wasn't double the performance with two GPUs. At most, you could get 50% performance boost, but double the power consumption and double the heat production.
In current era, having one single powerful GPU is the way. Though, there are multiple GPU setups, but those exist only in workstation builds (e.g several Quadro GPUs for increasing GPU compute power for number crunching).
I would also like to keep power requirements lower just to reduce my energy bill a little.
For that, you can look towards more efficient PSU.
Back in 2010, 80+ Gold was the most efficient PSU out there. Today, we also have 80+ Platinum and 80+ Titanium PSUs (latter being the most efficient).
Here are 80+ standards:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus#Efficiency_level_certifications
And also the new, Cybenetics standards:
https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=eta_9-51-40
E.g the Seasonic PRIME TX-650 PSUs i have in use, have the highest efficiency there is;
80+ Titanium (in 80+ standard)
ETA Titanium (in Cybenetics standard), certification:
https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/44/
That should be it for now. If you have more questions, ask.
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