TEC build log start

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/cd15M1a
ok so I have finished all my testing and decided on a general build for this unit.
this build will be sealed inside of a chest so I will not have physical access to the computer case, I would like some input on the general idea that I am presenting, I use antifreeze so freezing the coolant is not a issue, and seeing as I am increasing the cooling capacity of my water cooling system, I have also chosen new clocks for my hardware, the CPU clock will run at 5Ghz, and the GPU's will be running at 930Mhz, I have already tested theses clocks and found them to be stable for my hardware.

 

[toolmaker_03]

If possible, I will make a video bios change, so that it is a hardware change in the video card BIOS, I prefer this method over changing the settings after the OS is operational in MSI afterburner.
there are programs for doing this, I have not got one yet because I am not quite ready to do the change to the hardware, but I have been looking at the GPU flash tools and the settings I will need to have the new BIOS at, for doing this kind of process, because this is a GTX580 video card, there are a few people that have already done this, it was successful BIOS update, and the card is still running at the higher clock rate setting.
so it should work fine.

 

[4Ryan6]

If you do that, make sure you create a backup copy of your stock GPU BIOS that you keep on a small flash drive by itself, so you can flash your graphics card back to the stock settings if you need to, you have no warranty left on those 580s so no problem there, but to be able to flash the GPU BIOS at all, you have to unlock it first.

 

[toolmaker_03]

If you do that, make sure you create a backup copy of your stock GPU BIOS that you keep on a small flash drive by itself, so you can flash your graphics card back to the stock settings if you need to, you have no warranty left on those 580s so no problem there, but to be able to flash the GPU BIOS at all, you have to unlock it first.

right, and I am not positive about the EVGA GTX580 BIOS I have, being accessible, but I will find out for sure soon.

well I don't have high goals for this rig, all I am looking to achieve is the same benchmarks as a 5930K with a pair of GTX980's in SLI at stock settings. (firestrike 16,000)
for my system to do this, the CPU would need to be at 4.8Ghz to 5Ghz, and my GPU will need to be from 900Mhz to 930Mhz.

there are a few rigs similar to my own that are clocked this high and have benchmark scores at 16,000 on fire strike or better.
I would like to clock my hardware this high, but I do not want the operating temps on my hardware to go above 50C at load.
standard water cooling can not do this. so I am only left with some kind of below ambient cooling solution that would be capable of this.
I don't think that I over did it, I will have around 900W of generated heat from the components, and I have at least 900W of TEC cooling power to cool the water. if I am dead on, my water will be at 0C with the components at load, if I am a little under what I need in TEC cooling power, the water will be around 10C with the components at load, and if I am a little over with my TEC cooling power needs, the system will hold at -10C with the components at load.

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok, so it's looking like about 20LBS of clay to cover the TEC assembly on the cold side, about 10LBS of clay to cover the water pumps on the cold side, and about 10LBS of clay will be used on the hole going through the ice chest. That's a total of 40LBS of clay and I have a total of 50LBS of clay so I should be in the green. I do have some of that foam for covering A/C lines and I will be using that for the two 4" sections between the pumps and the ice Chest, I will be using it to cover the ice chest, and I will be using the foam to cover parts of the reservoirs inside the ice chest.
that's a lot of insulation.
I have the hot side piping done, and the supports for the fill and drain assembly on the hot side of the loop. I also have moved the build to the top of a table it is now a little easier to work on.

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so this will be the angle for pics for some time.
I am making the frames for these power supplies and I am installing the TEC's into the assembly.
I had to give the assemble a couple of days all tightened down, to make sure that none of the CPU water blocks did any traveling on me.
over cautious yea, but it worked fine and none of the CPU moved at all.
http://imgur.com/a/CfaW2

 

[toolmaker_03]

you might notice the 600W TT power supply, yea it's cheap, but it has been running for 5 years now and never has given me a bit of trouble. If it does fail on me I have a new 850W to replace it. this power supply is for all 4 X water pumps, all the fans, and all of the displays. so yea it needs to work. :lol:

 

[toolmaker_03]

eraser putty is on, and the clay is ready to be applied.
http://imgur.com/a/Zxdlt

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so for anyone looking at all the fittings for this build they will notice a few things there are fittings for almost every maker in this build why?
well I like to know what I can and can not buy.
so there are fittings from Koolance, XSPC, Bits Power, Alpha Cool, and EK
the only fittings that will not buy anything from in the future, are Alpha Cool, and EK.
the alpha cool fittings are too weak at the rotary section, the taping sucks, and none of them even made it on the build.
with the EK fittings, I had issues with the taping of the threads, they are not G1/4, its close, but not exact, and none on the rotary sections are tight, I may have to remove a few of them from the build if they leak.

so in conclusion its still bits power for rotary fittings, and I like XSPC for none rotary fittings, Koolance still has my vote, because they are the only ones making a conversion fitting from the G1/4 to soft copper. I also like there compression fittings.

 

[toolmaker_03]

back to the eraser putty, I used the eraser putty in all the areas that are less than a 1/4" in thickness, one because the eraser putty is easy to form and the other is that the clay does not hold well or form well to anything when it is less than a 1/4" thick.
so, I will be using the eraser putty for all the voids in the ice chest, where all the wire and tubing comes out, and around the flow meter, as well as the temp sensor, will be covered first in the eraser putty. to protect the sensors. then I will cover the eraser putty in clay.
on the hole in the ice chest it will be done in three layers, first the eraser putty, than a coat of Flex shot, than a coat of flex seal.
I will do the same thing on the inside of the ice chest as well.

 

[toolmaker_03]

some pics of the support frame
http://imgur.com/a/XTMil

 

[toolmaker_03]

I am just a big kid, playing with play doh (its not play doh its molding clay)
its all the stuff we did as kids, but now with purpose. ( as adults this is what we tell ourselves)
but really, its just for fun.

http://imgur.com/a/qKSfp

 

[computers_are_freaky]

Pretty colours!!
This build is coming along nicely, it looks like it'll be ready to rock soon.
Good job

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok, so I got it covered, and now I will make the out side a solid gray color, and the face, at the TEC's white.
http://imgur.com/a/bBSIr

looks kind of like a bug.

 

[computers_are_freaky]

What did you do in the area directly touching the peltiers? Is there an air pocket or is the clay pressed up against it?

Also:
Ladies and gentlemen, I am proud to present our latest discovery, I call it the "TECus OCus Chromatius". It resides in dense jungles of cabling that are surrounded by both freezing cold mountains and harsh winds that blow through dense forests of fins.

 

[toolmaker_03]

gray and white
http://imgur.com/a/Ntvt7

 

[4Ryan6]

I hope you pressure tested all the fittings for leaks before applying all that putty?

 

[toolmaker_03]

yes, I did that with air I have a Schroder valve.

 

[toolmaker_03]

the TEC assembly is now installed onto the table top.

the white area is where I will be playing with the thickness of the clay to prevent any freezing.

I know that there is a point where the radiated heat from the hot side of the TEC's will be enough to just warm the surface of the clay.

but for exactly where the transition point is I will have to figure that out.

by chance, does anyone out there happen to know where that point is?

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so I did not go the entire 2" in thickness for the clay that I thought I would, the final thickness that I stopped at is only 1 1/4" thick, I stopped because I felt like this would be enough, I have nothing to back that opinion up, but its what I did.

 

[4Ryan6]

You can always call, Ghostbusters!

It kinda looks like some kind of Alien growth going on there!

Hey, The Blob!

 

[toolmaker_03]

well, the thickness of the clay, is something for me to play around with, until I get it right.

it may take awhile, but I will figure it out.

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so I really do like the clay as a method for insolating the cold side of the water loop.
one, the clay gets harder or less pliable the colder it gets.
two, its adjustable, meaning I can make it thicker wherever I need to, or even make it thinner.(I will be playing with the thickness until I get it right)
three, I can change the loop around, and reuse the clay to reinsulate whatever I need to.
the clay is really user friendly for this kind of build, on my test build I spent hours cutting and fitting foam, to insolate stuff. by the time I cut the foam off something to get at it the foam was no longer useable. I had to cut and fit more foam. I got tired of that loop real quick.
well that's my reasoning anyway I hope it works as well as I think it does.

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/a/G8gfv

I made the tubing runs on the hot side as straight as possible

 

[toolmaker_03]

all wired up.
http://imgur.com/ufjip8d

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/a/bkFHb

ok, as stated I will have the clay at the start of the TEC's cold side to begin with, and I will slowly add little bit, by little bit, of clay, until I hit that point where the radiated heat from the hot side, just warms the surface of the clay to prevent any freezing. I do not want to add too much clay to cause the clay to heat up internally and warm the cold side of the TEC.

ok, so how am I going to know when the hot side of the TEC is starting to warm the clay up internally as I add clay to the TEC assembly?
I will place a temp sensor 1/4" below the surface of the clay on the white section of the clay, it will be on the bottom of the assembly. so back to the bottom fan controller channel 2 will have a cold side motor temp, and channel 5 will have the internal clay temp, from 1/4" below the white area of the clay.