TECH: # 44 & #47 lamps

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Rob

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Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

It seems that I've been replacing the same (4) #44 bulbs on a regular
basis (I've been using #47's instead). The bulbs are below the slings
on my WH2O. My question is, are the filiments on the 44's better than
the 47's? I thought that the 47's were the same just a lower output.
Does any particular brand have a stronger filiment to endure the
flipper and ball vibrations any better than other brands or should I
just go with 44's?
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Use 1847 bulbs here for a stronger filament, and longer life. Change
the sockets and use 444's also.

Lamps are what they are. Cheap. I had heard they are all foriegn made
now. Someone chime in if they know for sure.

Mario
Pinthetic
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Rob ... the option is #444 bulbs, which are military grade vibration
resistent bulbs, specifically what we sell for high vibration (pop bumper,
etc) applications.

www.bayareaamusements.com

"Rob" <z31kid@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1124122303.518459.160900@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> It seems that I've been replacing the same (4) #44 bulbs on a regular
> basis (I've been using #47's instead). The bulbs are below the slings
> on my WH2O. My question is, are the filiments on the 44's better than
> the 47's? I thought that the 47's were the same just a lower output.
> Does any particular brand have a stronger filiment to endure the
> flipper and ball vibrations any better than other brands or should I
> just go with 44's?
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

"Rob" wrote:
> It seems that I've been replacing the same (4) #44 bulbs on a regular
> basis (I've been using #47's instead). The bulbs are below the slings
> on my WH2O. My question is, are the filiments on the 44's better than
> the 47's? I thought that the 47's were the same just a lower output.
> Does any particular brand have a stronger filiment to endure the
> flipper and ball vibrations any better than other brands or should I
> just go with 44's?

No difference with strength/durabilty between #44/#47 filaments.

Just about any brand you buy nowadays will be "china joe"- cheap stuff made
overseas (and possibly even in the U.S.)

10 or so years ago you could buy GE bulbs and they were made much better-
very durable- we'd save our GE lamps and use them in high-vibration areas
(pop bumpers, etc) for durability. But GE went south shortly after that and
they're just as good/bad as anything else you can buy nowadays. So you pays
your money and you takes your chances.

You may try to see if you can find some old stock GE lamps somewhere- NAPA
auto parts used to stock/sell them and rarely does anyone go to NAPA for #44
lamps, so if you have one in your area see if they have any with a lot of
dust on top of the box- old yellow/blue/white box with #44 stamped in ink on
the end.

Other option- I noticed Stern have been doing this for some time now on lamp
sockets in high-vibration locations: Remove the screw and socket from under
the playfield. Replace screw with a 1/2" inch version and put it back
through the mounting hole in the socket. Put a black minipost rubber ring on
the other (threaded) side of the screw, then install back in the playfield.
Lamp will sit a tad lower, but the rubber between playfield wood and lamp
socket mounting tab will help dampen the vibrations that the lamp/socket are
susceptible to, and may help preserve the life of the lamp....

We have the 1/2" hex head screws and rubber minipost rings in stock- see:
www.actionpinball.com

Hope that helps!

Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com

We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Has anyone tried the LED replacement?

Pricey, but I think it would cut down on the plastic warping, do to
heat on the pop bumper covers. plus last alot long.


www.superbrightleds.com

RJ
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

>A spritz of yellowish off-white paint on them should make them appear
>incandescent color, and reduce the directionality of them somewhat too,
>like frosting on a regular bulb, would cause some of the light to
>bounce back down into the led and shoot out in other directions.

I don't think so. Have you tried it? You are NOT going to replicate a
regular bulb with a LED no matter what you try to do to it.

>With one of the super-bright ones, you could put more paint on. Also how
>about roughing up the outer surface of the led, shouldn't that add to
>the diffusion?

Only a diffuser lens works and you still get no side lighting.

>Wonder what the simplest possible circuitry would be that could be
>added to each bulb that would give it a slight gradation of the on and
>off power, to appear more like a filament going on and off?

You would have to have a cap discharging at a specific rate built into
the base...that MIGHT work. Won't help with warm up. LED's don't have a
nice, somewhat linear volt to brightness level like bulbs. Trouble on
games with duty cycles to reduce light level on older games is that you
get a flicker of the LED and not an average lower glow like on a
regular bulb.

> Starting to make regular old bulbs sound better and better. But... if Stern
>wanted to totally switch to leds that didn't have a directional
>problem, they could easily build into the lamp board something that
>would create the gradual on/off effect of a regular lamp.

They use LEDs now in some cases. They are not bad if you design around
them, but replacing bulbs in an older game hasn't proved to be the best
looking...yet.

Kirb
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

LEDs' work best under a (smaller) playfield insert.Not so good for
lighting plastics, unless you like the spot light effect. Might want to
make sure that the bulbs are clear of all wood and kicker parts. They
should not be failing that often, other than maybe 5% early life
failures.
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

"frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in news:1124136744.080605.130630
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> A spritz of yellowish off-white paint on them should make them appear
> incandescent color, and reduce the directionality of them somewhat too,
> like frosting on a regular bulb, would cause some of the light to
> bounce back down into the led and shoot out in other directions. With
> one of the super-bright ones, you could put more paint on. Also how
> about roughing up the outer surface of the led, shouldn't that add to
> the diffusion?

Well, those could help. The larger problem is that traditional lamps put
out a lot of light. Now I know someone's going to chime in about super
bright LEDs... Simply put, super bright LEDs are super bright ON AXIS.
Off axis, they're super NOT.

So what happens is if you take a super bright LED and add a crazy
diffuser trying to reach the diffraction pattern of a regular led, you
basically wind up with a pretty dim bulb. :)

We really didn't know how good we had it with the old bulbs; pretty
uniform light going in a half-spehere splay pattern. Oh yeah, and
BRIGHT!

> But... if Stern
> wanted to totally switch to leds that didn't have a directional
> problem, they could easily build into the lamp board something that
> would create the gradual on/off effect of a regular lamp.

Sure you could, but that would require a redesign of the lamp matrix. I
guess that wouldn't be SO hard since it's a matrix and all, buuuut....
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Anyone ever look into replacing the stuff with some kind of fiber
optics light pipe? If you could get the light pipe to diffuse you
could have pretty good replacement for vibration areas. Except for
routing the fiber of course.
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

> www.superbrightleds.com
>I have the 6V on LOTR,

>http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/Schmitt?page=2

>--Eric

I bought some LEDs from them to experiment with. The only place I
really liked them is behind the Damsel on M*M. The extra brightness
really makes her stand out and the blue tint and lack of dispersion
doesn't look out of place like it does in GI applications.

John
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

wasn't there talk of an LED version of the 44 being introduced soon, or was
that just my imagination????

--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
Governor Henry Blasdel, Nevada's first governor after statehood, voiced his
opposition to the proposed new act in the strongest of terms: "I know of no
greater vice than gambling. It is against public morals. It saps the very
foundations of society. It induces intemperance. It begets idleness. It
fosters immorality. It multiplies crime. It leads to reckless extravagance.
In short, it is the root of all evils."

"Rob" <z31kid@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1124122303.518459.160900@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> It seems that I've been replacing the same (4) #44 bulbs on a regular
> basis (I've been using #47's instead). The bulbs are below the slings
> on my WH2O. My question is, are the filiments on the 44's better than
> the 47's? I thought that the 47's were the same just a lower output.
> Does any particular brand have a stronger filiment to endure the
> flipper and ball vibrations any better than other brands or should I
> just go with 44's?
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

that's a good question. i guess in the old days they figured better to have
a few little bulbs burn out than have one go and kill the whole game.

they could have used mechanical devices -shutters attached to targets etc.--
to control the light, it would have been interesting.



--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
Governor Henry Blasdel, Nevada's first governor after statehood, voiced his
opposition to the proposed new act in the strongest of terms: "I know of no
greater vice than gambling. It is against public morals. It saps the very
foundations of society. It induces intemperance. It begets idleness. It
fosters immorality. It multiplies crime. It leads to reckless extravagance.
In short, it is the root of all evils."

<seymour-shabow@excite.com> wrote in message
news:1124191607.063630.135840@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> Anyone ever look into replacing the stuff with some kind of fiber
> optics light pipe? If you could get the light pipe to diffuse you
> could have pretty good replacement for vibration areas. Except for
> routing the fiber of course.
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

whoops i guess i should have looked at the rest of the posts.

--
billb
the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
Governor Henry Blasdel, Nevada’s first governor after statehood, voiced his
opposition to the proposed new act in the strongest of terms: "I know of no
greater vice than gambling. It is against public morals. It saps the very
foundations of society. It induces intemperance. It begets idleness. It
fosters immorality. It multiplies crime. It leads to reckless extravagance…
In short, it is the root of all evils."

"billb" <sevenoutpinball@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5a22a$43026312$42f839c0$11252@DIALUPUSA.NET...
> wasn't there talk of an LED version of the 44 being introduced soon, or
was
> that just my imagination????
>
> --
> billb
> the stock market is one giant electronic chain letter.
> Governor Henry Blasdel, Nevada's first governor after statehood, voiced
his
> opposition to the proposed new act in the strongest of terms: "I know of
no
> greater vice than gambling. It is against public morals. It saps the very
> foundations of society. It induces intemperance. It begets idleness. It
> fosters immorality. It multiplies crime. It leads to reckless
extravagance.
> In short, it is the root of all evils."
>
> "Rob" <z31kid@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1124122303.518459.160900@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > It seems that I've been replacing the same (4) #44 bulbs on a regular
> > basis (I've been using #47's instead). The bulbs are below the slings
> > on my WH2O. My question is, are the filiments on the 44's better than
> > the 47's? I thought that the 47's were the same just a lower output.
> > Does any particular brand have a stronger filiment to endure the
> > flipper and ball vibrations any better than other brands or should I
> > just go with 44's?
> >
>
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

The 906 replacement looks pretty cool on Shadow behind Baldwin's ring on the
translite....

- Massachusetts Bruce

"PT" <zeecarr1@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1124199113.760590.313440@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>> www.superbrightleds.com
>>I have the 6V on LOTR,
>
>>http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/Schmitt?page=2
>
>>--Eric
>
> I bought some LEDs from them to experiment with. The only place I
> really liked them is behind the Damsel on M*M. The extra brightness
> really makes her stand out and the blue tint and lack of dispersion
> doesn't look out of place like it does in GI applications.
>
> John
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

"Steve Kulpa" <stevekulpa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1124236939.428636.32400
@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> Try #755, same volts/amps as a #47, but a little dimmer, slightly
> cooler, and 6+ times the average life (20,000 hours).
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6201710023

Dimmer than a 47??

Geez, why not just turn the lights OFF altogether? No heat, and infinite
lamp life! :)
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

<<They use LEDs now in some cases. They are not bad if you design
around
them, but replacing bulbs in an older game hasn't proved to be the best

looking...yet. >>

Yup they are on my LOTR, but I don't see Stern doing any playing around
with gradual on-off kind of thing, they just blink on and off. I meant
that if they did ever go 100% leds on games as some point, they might
want to look into adding gradual on/off power to the control of all the
leds, since straight blinking on a whole goes would look rather harsh
on the eyes
The light just shoots straight out the top of these leds, right?
Couldn't some simple little snap-on prism be designed that would
refract the light in all different dirrections, or at least close to
it? The last time I fooled with prisms was in high school physics
class, so I'm just guessing on prism theory here but I dunno, how
about... a little cone-shaped prism? Light goes in the bottom flat
part, then would that make all the light shoot out at right angles to
the sides of the cone instead of staight up? Or not? And rounded a
little at the top so some still comes out the top too? Or instead of a
cone, a flat-bottomed half-sphere? Somethign between a cone and a
half-sphere? Or how about another thick, snap-on plastic clear blob
that's frosted on the outside, but also has a bunch of those little
sparkley foil specks melted into it, they would act like microscopic
mirrors and diffuse the light all over the place. (I mean a decently
dense amount of the sparklies, not just a few) Or just plain design
LEDs that have this kind of stuff built into the lens already? Like I
said I am no prism expert and I don't have anything to do any testing
with in this area but somebody should be able to invent something
simple and cheap. Has anybody else goofed around with this?... Frenchy
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'm tired of f-ing with the pop bumper lamps in my BH. I replaced the
sockets when I got it (with the same type), and they worked fine for a
little while, but now I'm having continual problems with both dead
lamps and/or socket issues.

I'm going to get new wedge-base sockets and go with 555s.

df
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

and I can't seem to locate any of the older GE bulbs anywhere, so I guess
I'm going to have to stock up.
Now, 44, 47 444 or do I go and redo the plug and use 555?


"frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1124328164.804063.140830@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
<<They use LEDs now in some cases. They are not bad if you design
around
them, but replacing bulbs in an older game hasn't proved to be the best

looking...yet. >>

Yup they are on my LOTR, but I don't see Stern doing any playing around
with gradual on-off kind of thing, they just blink on and off. I meant
that if they did ever go 100% leds on games as some point, they might
want to look into adding gradual on/off power to the control of all the
leds, since straight blinking on a whole goes would look rather harsh
on the eyes
The light just shoots straight out the top of these leds, right?
Couldn't some simple little snap-on prism be designed that would
refract the light in all different dirrections, or at least close to
it? The last time I fooled with prisms was in high school physics
class, so I'm just guessing on prism theory here but I dunno, how
about... a little cone-shaped prism? Light goes in the bottom flat
part, then would that make all the light shoot out at right angles to
the sides of the cone instead of staight up? Or not? And rounded a
little at the top so some still comes out the top too? Or instead of a
cone, a flat-bottomed half-sphere? Somethign between a cone and a
half-sphere? Or how about another thick, snap-on plastic clear blob
that's frosted on the outside, but also has a bunch of those little
sparkley foil specks melted into it, they would act like microscopic
mirrors and diffuse the light all over the place. (I mean a decently
dense amount of the sparklies, not just a few) Or just plain design
LEDs that have this kind of stuff built into the lens already? Like I
said I am no prism expert and I don't have anything to do any testing
with in this area but somebody should be able to invent something
simple and cheap. Has anybody else goofed around with this?... Frenchy
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

"Steve Kulpa" <stevekulpa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1124242055.131002.102270
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

> slighty! you'd never notice

Well, that's what "they" say about the difference between 44's and 47's.

Honestly, I _do_ notice that difference, so I'd imagine I'd REALLY notice
the change here as well.
 
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