The unsung hero of my gaming PC setup: My $30 Power Tower of Destiny extension plug outlet

[Admin]

How messed up is your plug setup for your desk tech? Here's what I think of my solution.

The unsung hero of my gaming PC setup: My $30 Power Tower of Destiny extension plug outlet : Read more

 

[bit_user]

Yeah, I guess vertical is a good way to go, so long as the base is big and sturdy enough.

What I tend to do is use mini-extension cords and "pigtail" splitters to avoid transformer bricks crowding out plugs from using adjacent outlets.

 

[Alvar "Miles" Udell]

Really? You use a bargain basement no name brand "surge protector" that only has a basic amount of surge protection instead of a proper name brand surge protector or, preferably, a line interactive UPS?

 

[Notton]

Just a warning with all of those power bars and chargers on Amazon.
Quite a lot of the brands you never heard of have a fake certificate, and do not have any safety features whatsoever.
A real ETL/Intertek, or UL certificate can be looked up online. (Caveat it's not always up to date).
"CE" is the most commonly spoofed one, and it's not a reliable certificate anyways.
Ditto with FCC, that's only for adhering to wireless standards.
There are others like TUV, EAC, PSE, CCC, etc. depending on your region.

Why is this important? Worst case, if it catches fire and your home burns down, insurance may deny any claims because you used an uncertified device. In a mild case, the power bar offers no protection from a surge and fries your electronics. Best case, nothing happens because you didn't overload it and mother nature didn't send any power spikes to your home.

If you're not sure it's real or fake, you can always ask the certifying agency.
https://ramuk.intertekconnect.com/webclients/its/dlp/products.nsf/$$search?openform

Search Product iQ | UL Solutions

productiq.ulprospector.com

IMO, if you need a power bar, buy an APC, Cyberpower, or Tripp Lite.

 

[bit_user]

Really? You use a bargain basement no name brand "surge protector" that only has a basic amount of surge protection instead of a proper name brand surge protector or, preferably, a line interactive UPS?

Yeah, I mostly agree. It depends on what's plugged into it, though.

My PCs are all on PFC-compatible UPSes. The outlet block on them is cramped, so I use powerstrips for some of the outlets.

A few years ago, I had a surge protector get fried by a power surge. I used it to plug in my work laptop, in my bedroom, but it wasn't plugged in at the time. The weird thing is that the surge protector didn't completely die, but it gave very weak charging current. It's only when I tracked down where the smell was coming from that I noticed the scorch marks on it.

 

[bit_user]

Why is this important? Worst case, if it catches fire and your home burns down,

This can happen! Do not place surge protectors in tight spots, especially wedged behind or underneath fabric or furniture!

When the "fuse" blows, they generate quite a bit of heat. They have a fire-retardant that's supposed to quench any flames, but having so much heat in a small space, next to flammable objects could indeed spark a fire. This is especially true of any that were made more than ~25-30 years ago.

 

[Notton]

This can happen! Do not place surge protectors in tight spots, especially wedged behind or underneath fabric or furniture!

When the "fuse" blows, they generate quite a bit of heat. They have a fire-retardant that's supposed to quench any flames, but having so much heat in a small space, next to flammable objects could indeed spark a fire. This is especially true of any that were made more than ~25-30 years ago.

Also do not "coil" and bundle excess cable if it hits more than 10A. Coiled cable has trouble dissipating heat compared to unraveled.

I've cracked open many of those no-name brand power bars from Amazon and most do not feature a fuse, nor protection circuit. Most times they say they are rated for "1250W", and they really mean it because the cable gauge is thin. If you plug in a 1800W device into that, it's asking for trouble... because why bother putting a real fuse in it when you can claim whatever you want on Amazon.
I've never cracked open those over-engineered UK plugs, but the fuses in them can also be counterfeit.

And even if the purchaser understands the risks associated with using un-certified equipment, and uses it within a safe boundary, not everyone in the household is aware of that.