Too much thermal paste on i7?

[mudeth]

I have an i7 2600 on Asus P8H67-M LE motherboard. It's a stock build, maybe 4-5 months old. My motherboard failed 10 days back, and I got a warranty replacement. After getting my system back, on a whim, I ran Prime95 and checked temperatures.

I'm glad I did, because the processor seems to be overheating! Idle is alright at 37-40 C, but when I run P95, temperatures rise sharply to 60+ and continue rising. Within a minute or two, I'm seeing 90 across all four cores (Tj max is 98).

I have a suspicion that this is because there is too much thermal paste. I assume the engineer who replaced the motherboard just dabbed on more thermal paste without removing the existing one. So it runs okay without load, but under load, heat dissipation isn't as quick as it should be.

I don't want to give it back to the service center, so I'd like to do this myself.

1. Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the problem? All characteristics of the problem seem to support my hypothesis.

2. Can someone point me to guides to do this. I did google, but I'm overwhelmed by the number of articles, so it would be nice if someone posted the de facto articles for...
a. How to scrape thermal paste off safely.
b. What brand of thermal paste to buy.
c. How to apply it.

I hope I've been clear. Please help me, since I want to do this right, and not burn out my CPU over the long haul.

 

[gaborbarla]

There is normally a sufficient layer of thermal paste at the bottom of the CPU out of the box and you shouldn't have to add more. I have 2 i7's and both are stock paste that came with the CPU and work for about a year now perfectly.

Check the CPU fan speed, it should be in the thosands not in the hundreds under load.
You can normally scrape the old hard paste off the heatsink without too much safety precaution, but first you must get the replacement paste. One must take care that the CPU and Motherboard is static sensitive and you should earth yourself before touching these components, and try not to touch the pins on the CPU.

I think it is much more likely that the replacement technician did not apply another layer of paste at all. Paste also gets old and somestimes you need to re apply paste after a while.

 

[dhicks19]

replace thermal paste with artic silver 5

guide;: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-To-Correctly-Apply-Thermal-Grease/274/4

 

[mudeth]

Thanks guys, that helps. I think I'll go with MX-2 based on recommendations on this forum, or AS5 if that isn't available.

@gaborbarla: Yes, I will get the anti-static band that goes around the wrist. I don't think I'll be taking the CPU out of its socket anyway.

 

[Cygnus x-1]

I'm assuming your using the stock fan heat sink. THe best way I find is to use a high purity isoprophl alcohol and Q-Tips to clean the chip and heat sink.

As for the TIM, a dab a little bigger than this should do it------> O

 

[mudeth]

^ Bipedal, only that big? Because in the guide that dhicks linked to, they spread it out evenly over the whole chip. Here, the surface is much bigger (since the chip isn't exposed).

Just checking, because it'll wear quite thin when I spread it out.

 

[Cygnus x-1]

For the stock cooler it should work. You want to cover the chip but as thin as possible. A lot of people install the heat sink then take it off to see what kind of coverage they're getting. Can't hurt to do a little experimenting.

 

[oby20]

here is your guide watching will be easier than reading.

how thermal paste spread:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4

how to correctly apply thermal paste:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPys__ikCIg


dont buy a silicon paste(white ones)although it spreads better but the metallic gray liquid paste are better in temps. the metallic liquid is 4c to 6c cooler than the silicon.
trust me i tested it and compared the temps.

 

[dhicks19]

Man just put a rice grain amount on and spread equally over the cpu in a thin layer, if it fails to cover it all equally apply a little more. its easy.

This is supposed to be the best thermal paste

http://overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=TH-001-ID

but obv mx2 or as5 will do nicely

 

[mudeth]

Your help is really appreciated, everyone. The videos and tip on how much to apply was extremely useful. I would have spread it evenly across the processor otherwise. I'll be doing the replacement soon. I'll update this thread with how it goes.

 

[mudeth]

Best answer selected by mudeth.

 

[mudeth]

Okay, it's done. I cleaned up the CPU and heatsink using isopropyl alcohol, waited for it to dry, applied a pea-sized amount of CoolerMaster thermal paste (it was the only one available in the shop, and I didn't have time to shop around).

Sealed it up. System is up and running, and it seems a bit slower to heat up, but it still hits 85 degrees. Stopped it at that point. Do you think it could be a voltage problem?

 

[oby20]

its your cooler, you are using the stock intel, that is a normal temp you are having, stock intel cooler cannot cool much with prime95 running, 85c that will be the best temp that it can hold. if you want it to have better temps you should buy a better cooler. i have the coolermaster v8 cooler and its cooling my i7 to max of 64c at 100%load and 34-37c at normal use, i run prime95 before and it reached 67c after an hour. stock coolers cannot cool that way.

 

[mudeth]

Hm.. that's interesting. I'll probably pick up an aftermarket cooler then for peace of mind. Thanks oby.

 

[oby20]

yes, i remember when i first assembled my i7 it has the stock cooler for the first 2 weeks, it reached 78c at 100%load because i use 3dmax rendering and animation, i didnt bother running prime95 because i know it would be worst. then after 2 weeks i have the bucks i didnt hesitate buying a cooler that will it my case, i end up buying coolermaster v8, i tested it with the 2 thermal paste from cooler master, i bought a coolermaster silicon(whitepaste) and the liquid metal paste that came from the v8, and the silicon was plus 4c in temps.

 

[mudeth]

yes, i remember when i first assembled my i7 it has the stock cooler for the first 2 weeks, it reached 78c at 100%load because i use 3dmax rendering and animation, i didnt bother running prime95 because i know it would be worst. then after 2 weeks i have the bucks i didnt hesitate buying a cooler that will it my case, i end up buying coolermaster v8, i tested it with the 2 thermal paste from cooler master, i bought a coolermaster silicon(whitepaste) and the liquid metal paste that came from the v8, and the silicon was plus 4c in temps.

That sounds a lot like my situation. It's reassuring to know it isn't a problem with my particular build. Weird that Intel does that, shouldn't the stock cooler be able to handle full load? Or do they assume that their CPUs won't be used on heavy duty stuff?

The i5 on my new laptop runs p95 just fine. Fan starts spinning and it raises all hell, but temperature stabilizes and doesn't get anywhere close to these levels.

 

[oby20]

That sounds a lot like my situation. It's reassuring to know it isn't a problem with my particular build. Weird that Intel does that, shouldn't the stock cooler be able to handle full load? Or do they assume that their CPUs won't be used on heavy duty stuff?

The i5 on my new laptop runs p95 just fine. Fan starts spinning and it raises all hell, but temperature stabilizes and doesn't get anywhere close to these levels.

it also has something to do with your psu, if your psu is not good(low efficiency below 80%) it draws more power because low efficient psu is wasting more power that is why in draws more just to reach that rated wattage labeled in them, that makes the cpu temp so high than the normal. while high efficient psu just needs to draw less power from the plug do it.

 

[mudeth]

it also has something to do with your psu, if your psu is not good(low efficiency below 80%) it draws more power because low efficient psu is wasting more power that is why in draws more just to reach that rated wattage labeled in them, that makes the cpu temp so high than the normal. while high efficient psu just needs to draw less power from the plug do it.

I don't think it's the PSU; I have a CoolerMaster PSU and cabinet, and I remember buying one rated much higher than I needed just to be safe.

Also, I'm not sure I completely agree with the logic about drawing more power, etc.

 

[dhicks19]

I don't think it's the PSU; I have a CoolerMaster PSU and cabinet, and I remember buying one rated much higher than I needed just to be safe.

Also, I'm not sure I completely agree with the logic about drawing more power, etc.

+1 on that one

 

[oby20]

i think you dont know much!LOL

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_PLUS

PARAGRAPH What it means

The efficiency of a computer power supply is its output power divided by its input power. The remaining power is converted into heat. For instance, a 600-watt power supply with 60% efficiency running at full load would draw 1000 W from the mains and would therefore waste 400 W as heat. On the other hand a 600-watt power supply with 80% efficiency running at full load would draw 750 W from the mains and would therefore waste only 150 W as heat.

For a given power supply, efficiency varies depending on how much power is being delivered. Supplies are typically most efficient at between half and three quarters load, much less efficient at low load, and somewhat less efficient at maximum load. Older ATX power supplies were typically 60% to 75% efficient. To qualify for 80 PLUS, a power supply must achieve at least 80% efficiency at three specified loads (20%, 50% and 100% of maximum rated power). However, 80 PLUS supplies may still be less than 80% efficient at lower loads. For instance, an 80 PLUS, 520 watt supply could still be 70% or less efficient at 60 watts (a typical idle power for a desktop computer).[7] Thus it is still important to select a supply with capacity appropriate to the device being powered.

It is easier to achieve the higher efficiency levels for higher wattage supplies, so gold and platinum supplies may be less available in consumer level supplies of reasonable capacity for typical desktop machines.

Typical computer power supplies may have power factors as low as 0.5 to 0.6.[8] The higher power factor reduces the peak current draw, reducing load on the circuit or on an uninterruptible power supply.

Reducing the heat output of the computer helps reduce noise, since fans do not have to spin as fast to cool the computer. Reduced heat and resulting lower cooling demands may increase computer reliability.[8]

 

[oby20]

I don't think it's the PSU; I have a CoolerMaster PSU and cabinet, and I remember buying one rated much higher than I needed just to be safe.

Also, I'm not sure I completely agree with the logic about drawing more power, etc.

i think you better start believing it

 

[mudeth]

^ I completely agree that when a less efficient PSU draws more power than a more efficient one and wastes it as heat. However, the power used by a CPU will remain constant at a particular load. It draws the same current, whatever the PSU is, and at the same (dynamic) voltage. So the CPU itself will not heat up more. The PSU may, but it will be minor, and the resulting effect on CPU temperature will be even more negligible.

 

[dhicks19]

oby20 get over yourself, whilst some of what you said is true, some is not, so you best start believing, i dont think you know much.

 

[dhicks19]

i think you better start believing it

LOL, you better start believing that me and your mum are an item and from time to time you will hear us engaging in vigorous activities. Just accept it, things will be easier.

 

[oby20]

Man just put a rice grain amount on and spread equally over the cpu in a thin layer, if it fails to cover it all equally apply a little more. its easy.


LOL! i think your the one who dont know much what are you a stand up comedian??!!LOL
you think you know much??hahaha you dont even know how to apply a thermal paste correctly!LOL what a dumb ass!LOL
and my mum is not like your mum!LOL a m!lF!!! hahahhahah!!!!
hahaha get over yourself clown!