I prefer overclocking in bios and it is as straightforward as increasing the clock multiplier and vCore, there might be a few other settings to tweak to check that you can probably find a youtube video or review for your board. But you shouldn't simply copy the settings of others. Use it for information only, less of a guide. Any turbo modes will need to be switched off.
You simply need to increase the clock multiplier for 0.1 ghz increments and test each stage. When you get errors in p95 you'll have to reboot and increase the vCore by 0.01v or maybe there's an offset with a small 0.005 increment and that's about it. Increase and test in increments 'til the error disappears. Things vary between different bioses and amd and intel builds but the principles are the same.
Then you test again and increase again by 0.1ghz and test again so that you know that the error is from under volting rather than over volting. Then you increase your vCore by the next small 0.01 or 0.005 increment and test again. Each stage might require several hours of stressing. So when you reach your desired speed there will have been quite a few hours put into it.
Some over clocking software has been known to either fry cpu or corrupt bios so avoid. There aren't any recommended shortcuts. Manually overclock and reboot each time you need to adjust bios settings. Use software for monitoring only.
There is llc and vDroop to think about. For a long time I simply over clocked with incremental vCore bumps but if you increase the llc a notch that might have the same effect as bumping the vCore a bit. There is a point that you should not exceed. I don't like tweaking llc as it is like opening the floodgates on the power and increases thermals on the cpu while the vCore stays static but sometimes it will overclock higher with the llc higher, on a lower vCore like the accelerator on your car increases your speed, but then the faster you go the more you might crash if you haven't adequately prepped. the build with a decent psu, mobo and cooler. Don't bump the vCore and LLC at the same time. Again you have to take this in one at a time steps, reboot, stress, test, monitor temps and make sure it's stable at each level of clock speed.
If you set llc to the highest setting and also went to the highest 'safe' vCore right on the recommended limit then CPU would likely fry. So keep things as low as possible rather than thinking you can go full speed, full power and it will all be perfectly safe riding on the recommended limits. I don't think it is. It won't last a week or a day that way. You need to stay as far below recommended limits as possible.
There isn't much difference in power draw or heat output with higher llc and lower vCore or higher vCore and lower llc but with LLC on extreme on my board with my fx cpu the heat output is noticeably higher to the extent that I turned it down to ultra high rather than extreme. Fortunately my cpu doesn't need it on extreme. I also turned off 2 cores to get temps 13c lower to a max 42c load under prime 95. Rather than riding on 55c. Ryzen is a bit different on temps and voltages but there is no argument against keeping both as low as possible. 2 core and threads I can switch on again if I want to do a bit of cpu intensive work. I already tested it to 55c. with my overclock and I don't want to exceed that target.
LLC or load line calibration works in opposition to vDroop. vDroop causes the voltage to drop when the cpu load drops and if it drops too low then you get an error. LLC tries to cancel vDroop by keeping the voltage steady all the time. This requires more power and so generates more heat.
Just don't do anything insensible like revving the motor to the max and stay below the recommended limits rather than right on top of them. Only increase the power in the smallest increments possible and aim for the highest ghz. with the lowest vCore +llc that is stable under stress testing.
It's more a bit of forethought in planning your build. LLC + the amount of heat might not be such an issue on Ryzen since it's lower tdp but I'd still stay off the max setting for that. It shouldn't need it on full anyway.
For a gpu+cpu you will probably want a custom loop and for that you will also have to select and review each component, pump, radiator, tubing, compression couplers, reservoir, maybe colorant as well, and distilled water, all of that is pricey and more than average hassle and you'll have to get your sums right again if it's value for money that you're looking for. And it has to fit the chassis.
There are plenty of reviews and guides but don't simply copy what they did without understanding why it was done. There might also be other different products the market or newer versions that you might like. So research it all thoroughly and you'll probably wind up with a decent over clock. All look before you leap, quite simply. There's a variety of gpu blocks and a variety of cpu blocks a variety of chassis, many of which will have already been reviewed.
If you need someone to tell you what buttons to press in what order then you shouldn't be overclocking! You should pick the components you like for whatever reason I tend to prefer functionality over form. Get me wrong but I thought I was looking at the screen more than watching the colors cycle on rgb dimms or fans. I guess you could get an rgb fix without a pc if you really need one.
I built my own water loop with a motorcycle transmission cooler and currently use a bucket of water and an aquarium pump for coolant. Because I was simply interested in the scrapheap challenge aspect of it. The radiator I used was cheap bargain bin and I got a cheap cpu block and I built a cooler that is somewhat better than a 240mm aio but not quite as good as the noctua nh-d15.
None of it all fits tidily in the chassis but I don't care about that. I have a spare pump if it fails and the radiator is nowhere near the pc if it leaks it simply drips on the desk. But I glued it all up with pvc glue and secured with jubilee clips it can't leak anyway. It has to work drip free for years. With only the jubilee clips it had a leak under pressure that was almost imperceptible so I glued it as well. And it only leaked because I had pulled out all the aluminium tubing and replaced it with copper to avoid galvanic corrosion against the cpu block and I wanted copper rather than aluminium cpu block. So I had to re-do the U bends on it with pvc tubing. With a bit of glue+jubilee clips it simply can't leak at all.
All of that is totally non standard and off the pc market radar the components you buy to fit water cooling in your chassis all have reviews. Have people had problems with things like pumps and leaks, sure but that's why you need to review things and maybe ask for recommends before you buy them! You want a quiet pump with a decent operational PSi to push bubbles through the loop and a water block for your cpu with nice open flow channels that doesn't increase the pressure drop too much. Then you need enough radiator capacity to deal with gpu+cpu combined or each with their own radiator. These then have to fit within the chassis. You will then need a larger chassis to fit 2 radiators which in turn will be pricier.
What products that might be in the pc market that fit your budget and liking, that's something for you to narrow down. Yes it's more work but if that's what you want and you think it's worth it, that's all entirely your choice. You can only ultimately buy one of each item. The 'best' one is the one you like. I like the flow channel of the cpu block and the psi of the pump.
I would prefer a separate loop, pump+radiator for gpu and cpu rather than cpu and gpu on the same loop and rad. if I was going to do that, but it's an additional expense. You can do whatever you want as long as you're willing to splash the cash. Again it is far from economical if cheap naff components leak and fry system.
There is an additional layer of legwork and thought that needs to go into custom cooling. No shortcuts, only precautions.
The
Toms hardware ryzen overclocking guide noted that LLC on the amd board they were using was insane at anything above 1, the lowest setting.
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