Trying to build desktop on my own

[Conductor Jack]

I need to choose between i3 4150, i5 4460, i5 4590. But, I don't know what kind of combination can be made from those processors, With 2 kind of budgets, $700 - $850 or $850 - $1300.

With some reasons, these are the parts only to be chosen.

Processor :
i3 4150
i5 4460
i5 4590

Motherboard :
ASUS M5A78L-MLX
ASUS A58M-AA/USB3
ASUS A88XM-A
ASUS A88X-GAMER
ASRCK N68-GS4
ASUS H81M-D
ASUS B85M-G
ASUS B85-PRO
ASUS H97M-E
ASUS H97-PLUS
ASUS H97-PRO
ASUS H97M-PLUS
ASUS Z97-A
ASROCK H61M-VG4 - LGA1150
ASROCK H81M-VG4 - LGA1150
ASROCK G41
VSUS G41

Display Card :
LEADTEK NVIDIA GT730 2GB DDR3 OC 128BITS
LEADTEK NVIDIA GT740 1GB DDR5 128BITS
LEADTEK NVIDIA GTX750 1GB DDR5 128BITS
LEADTEK NVIDIA GTX750 2GB DDR5 OC 128BITS

ASUS NVIDIA GEFORCE EN210 1GB DDR3 64BITS
ASUS NVIDIA GT620 2GB DDR3 64BITS
ASUS NVIDIA GT730 2GB DDR3 128BITS
ASUS NVIDIA GT740 OC 2GB DDR5 128BITS
ASUS NVIDIA GTX750 2GB DDR5 128BITS
ASUS NVIDIA STRIX GTX750TI-OC 2GB DDR5 128BITS
ASUS ATI R5 230 2GB DDR3 64BIT
ASUS ATI R7 240 2GB DDR3 64BIT
ASUS ATI R7 240 OC 4GB DDR3 128BIT
ASUS ATI R7 250 1GB DDR5 128BIT
ASUS ATI R7 250X 1GB DDR5 128BIT
ASUS ATI R7 260X DC20C 1GB DDR5 128BIT
ASUS ATI R9 270 DC20 2GB DDR5 256BIT

SAPPHIRE ATI RADEON HD5450 1GB DDR3 64BIT
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 240 2GB DDR3 WITH BOOST 128BIT
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 240 1GB DDR5 WITH BOOST 128BIT
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 250X 1GB DDR5 WITH BOOST 128BIT
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 260X 2GB C DDR5 128BIT

CASING / POWER SUPPLY :
COOLER MASTER 350W POWER SUPPLY
COOLER MASTER 550W POWER SUPPLY
COOLER MASTER G550M 550W POWER SUPPLY
COOLERMASTER ELITE 344 MINI TOWER CASING (WITHOUT POWER SUPPLY)
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 CASING (WIHTOUT POWER SUPPLY)

VOLTAGE REGULATOR / UPS :
APC BS650 BACK-UPS 650VA UPS
NEUROPOWER COMPACT 800VA UPS(NP-800UK)
NEUROPOWER BLACK PRO 1200VA UPS (NP-P1K2E)
NEUROPOWER BLACK PRO 1500VA UPS (NP-BP-1K5E)
NEUROPOWER NP-800 800VA AVR (c/w 4-way EXTENSION & SURGE)
NEUROPOWER NP-1000 1000VA AVR (c/w 4-way EXTENSION & SURGE)

RAM :
KINGSTON / TEAM DDR2 2GB PC-800
TEAM DDR3 2GB PC-1600 / PC-1333
TEAM DDR3 4GB PC-1600 / PC-1333
TEAM DDR3 8GB PC-1600
TEAM DDR3L 8GB PC-1600 (SODIMM) - LOW VOLTAGE
APACER / KINGSTON DDR3 2GB PC-1600 / PC-1333
APACER / KINGSTON / KINGMAX DDR3 4GB PC-1600 / PC-1333
APACER / KINGSTON / KINGMAX DDR3 8GB PC-1600
KINGSTON HYPER -X FURY 4GB DDR3 -1600RAM (PC)
KINGSTON HYPER -X FURY 8GB DDR3 -1600RAM (PC)

MONITOR :
ACER 21.5" LED WIDE SCREEN MONITOR (K222HQL) 1600 X 900 HD READY/5MS
ACER 24" LED WIDE SCREEN MONITOR (K242HQL) 1920 X 1080 FULL HD/5MS

SAMSUNG 21.5" S22C170BSQ LED MONITOR, 5MS, DVI, WALL MOUNT , 1920 X 1080
SAMSUNG 24" S24D360HL LED MONITOR, 5MS, VGA &HDMI , 1920 X 1080

 

[disturbed force]

If the PC is for gaming I would get a i5, what do you mean combinations? What is your budget?

 

[BobCharlie]

Any of those CPU will work with whatever. Choose the better i5 as you'll have better luck with games in the future. After choosing the CPU you want, get the best gaming board you can afford that's compatible with THAT CPU. Intel boards won't work with AMD CPU, etc. so do your research. Make sure the board can take at least 8gb of RAM. I suggest 4 RAM slots vs. 2 RAM slots as it can help in the future in case a RAM stick dies (this happens to often to be honest, especially with cheaper brands) and you don't have to get high gb single cards. Reason being, say you buy 4 2gb sticks of RAM equaling 8 gb total. A month later your PC starts blue screening constantly. You can turn PC off, un plug it, turn back on (while still unplugged from AC outlet) so it drains the reserve charge, then remove 3 of the 4 sticks. Plug in and turn on. If the blue screening stops, that stick is good. Then you can test the other 3 sticks until the PC doesn't boot or starts crashing again and you found the bad stick. I also suggest getting a board that can do at least 16gb over 8 gb. I run 4 4gb sticks of Ripjaws. My RAM usage with nothing going other than typical background programs while staring at the desktop, is usually between 12-15% usage. If I had 8 gb of RAM, that usage would 22-30% at idle. Right now with 4 different window tabs open with 2 being video sites, I'm pegged at 20% usage, which would be 40% usage on 8gb and 60% on 4 gb and I'm not really doing anything. It's better to have RAM to spare and future room to grow. Be sure to look closely at the board's specs as some boards have fairly low limits on their max RAM ability. 32gb is overkill for a gaming PC, but probably crucial for video editing or specialized software, or someone needing to run many open programs at the same time that use a bunch of RAM. I rarely see my usage go above 35%, but have never watched it in-game so it might get higher.

From here, choose a fast hard drive. SSD if you can afford it. Buy 2 of them if you need a ton of space. If your hard drive is too slow, it'll actually be a bottle-neck which you'll see immediately when it takes 10+ minutes to copy a 2gb file from one location to another and you'll think it's the CPU. But if you have a CPU usage monitoring program, you'll notice you might be using only 5% of the CPU, which means all the time waiting is the hard drive doing it's thing.

Choose a video card. I prefer nvidia based cards and have been using them for about 7 years now. They will collect dust, which WILL ruin them and eventually either seize the fan or cause high heat. I take the outlet of my shopvac and blow all the dust out once every several months from the GPU, power supply, water cooler radiator, etc. This simple step will help a PC last for a while. My GTX 550ti is now 5 years old (getting replaced today as it's too outdated to run current stuff) but it would have been dead 3-4 years ago if the dust wasn't kept off it. Don't allow dust to actually cake up on ANY fan blades as it'll shorten the fan life while creating an imbalance/wobble which is very hard on the fans doing 2-5k rpm constantly, and actually causes them to come on more as they loose cooling efficiency.

Use artic silver paste for CPU heat sink. Don't over do it!!! Just need enough so when it spreads, it's make complete contact. Be EXTREMELY careful with the stuff as it DOES conduct electricity. If a drop get on the printed circuit board and bridges 2 solder points, you just ruined the board and probably other components. People not knowing what they are doing cake the stuff on thinking "more is better", it runs down the side, causes a short eventually, then they are complaining about how inferior a board or brand is when it's actually their fault.

After everything has been decided upon, THEN find the best power supply capable of powering everything correctly. Too many people skimp on power supply or over look it completely, install a big GPU then try overclocking, and keep crashing, or other components keep crashing at base setting and again they blame the brand, component, etc. when in fact the power supply simply doesn't put out enough amps at nominal usage. "Peak" wattage means nothing. That's what it'll tolerate (or should tolerate) for a brief moment like say during a power-up, it's NOT what it can do 24/7. You also don't need to get some 1000w power supply if you are tunning say an i5 and GTX 960 at stock settings. It's wasted money both at the wall socket and upfront cost. If you were planning on overclocking an i5 and running a SLI set up with big cards, then it's be more appropriate. But you need to do a little math on what each component draws, add it all together, then maybe shoot for a 20-30% increase in power supply over that. Look carefully at the power supply's rated amperage outputs though as that's what'll actually matter.

If you don't want to spend money on a new OS (Win7 64 ultimate still works GREAT and rarely if ever crashes) and have a modern system with it, you should be able to call MS and explain you are "upgrading" (don't say "new", say "upgrading" your current PC and are installing a faster, better hard drive and also are upgrading the main board as your old one is damaged. They'll ask for the key on the panel, and assist you in transferring the license. Keep that old key though if you toss the PC.

Anyways good luck with the build. I originally bought a "custom" PC from a local kid that built one, outgrew it within a year, then went ahead and scrapped everything but the case and built my own as this was still new territory to me at the time as I never considered it before. I made a few mistakes along the way like trying to hack a bios to allow for OC which bricked said board, bought a replacement MSI board which was too limited but an excellent board nonetheless before settling on a much better AMD board, and had cheaper RAM sticks fail in under a year.

You definitely get what you pay for, so if you are on a really low budget, I suggest saving up a little longer or sell things for quick cash you no longer need, etc. and put quality parts in, along with looking 2-4 years in the future so you won't have to constantly upgrade.

 

[Conductor Jack]

If the PC is for gaming I would get a i5, what do you mean combinations? What is your budget?

Yeah it's for gaming, but which i5 would be prefer? And the combinations would mean t display card, motherboard ,casing and power supply etc.

 

[Conductor Jack]

Any of those CPU will work with whatever. Choose the better i5 as you'll have better luck with games in the future. After choosing the CPU you want, get the best gaming board you can afford that's compatible with THAT CPU. Intel boards won't work with AMD CPU, etc. so do your research. Make sure the board can take at least 8gb of RAM. I suggest 4 RAM slots vs. 2 RAM slots as it can help in the future in case a RAM stick dies (this happens to often to be honest, especially with cheaper brands) and you don't have to get high gb single cards. Reason being, say you buy 4 2gb sticks of RAM equaling 8 gb total. A month later your PC starts blue screening constantly. You can turn PC off, un plug it, turn back on (while still unplugged from AC outlet) so it drains the reserve charge, then remove 3 of the 4 sticks. Plug in and turn on. If the blue screening stops, that stick is good. Then you can test the other 3 sticks until the PC doesn't boot or starts crashing again and you found the bad stick. I also suggest getting a board that can do at least 16gb over 8 gb. I run 4 4gb sticks of Ripjaws. My RAM usage with nothing going other than typical background programs while staring at the desktop, is usually between 12-15% usage. If I had 8 gb of RAM, that usage would 22-30% at idle. Right now with 4 different window tabs open with 2 being video sites, I'm pegged at 20% usage, which would be 40% usage on 8gb and 60% on 4 gb and I'm not really doing anything. It's better to have RAM to spare and future room to grow. Be sure to look closely at the board's specs as some boards have fairly low limits on their max RAM ability. 32gb is overkill for a gaming PC, but probably crucial for video editing or specialized software, or someone needing to run many open programs at the same time that use a bunch of RAM. I rarely see my usage go above 35%, but have never watched it in-game so it might get higher.

From here, choose a fast hard drive. SSD if you can afford it. Buy 2 of them if you need a ton of space. If your hard drive is too slow, it'll actually be a bottle-neck which you'll see immediately when it takes 10+ minutes to copy a 2gb file from one location to another and you'll think it's the CPU. But if you have a CPU usage monitoring program, you'll notice you might be using only 5% of the CPU, which means all the time waiting is the hard drive doing it's thing.

Choose a video card. I prefer nvidia based cards and have been using them for about 7 years now. They will collect dust, which WILL ruin them and eventually either seize the fan or cause high heat. I take the outlet of my shopvac and blow all the dust out once every several months from the GPU, power supply, water cooler radiator, etc. This simple step will help a PC last for a while. My GTX 550ti is now 5 years old (getting replaced today as it's too outdated to run current stuff) but it would have been dead 3-4 years ago if the dust wasn't kept off it. Don't allow dust to actually cake up on ANY fan blades as it'll shorten the fan life while creating an imbalance/wobble which is very hard on the fans doing 2-5k rpm constantly, and actually causes them to come on more as they loose cooling efficiency.

Use artic silver paste for CPU heat sink. Don't over do it!!! Just need enough so when it spreads, it's make complete contact. Be EXTREMELY careful with the stuff as it DOES conduct electricity. If a drop get on the printed circuit board and bridges 2 solder points, you just ruined the board and probably other components. People not knowing what they are doing cake the stuff on thinking "more is better", it runs down the side, causes a short eventually, then they are complaining about how inferior a board or brand is when it's actually their fault.

After everything has been decided upon, THEN find the best power supply capable of powering everything correctly. Too many people skimp on power supply or over look it completely, install a big GPU then try overclocking, and keep crashing, or other components keep crashing at base setting and again they blame the brand, component, etc. when in fact the power supply simply doesn't put out enough amps at nominal usage. "Peak" wattage means nothing. That's what it'll tolerate (or should tolerate) for a brief moment like say during a power-up, it's NOT what it can do 24/7. You also don't need to get some 1000w power supply if you are tunning say an i5 and GTX 960 at stock settings. It's wasted money both at the wall socket and upfront cost. If you were planning on overclocking an i5 and running a SLI set up with big cards, then it's be more appropriate. But you need to do a little math on what each component draws, add it all together, then maybe shoot for a 20-30% increase in power supply over that. Look carefully at the power supply's rated amperage outputs though as that's what'll actually matter.

If you don't want to spend money on a new OS (Win7 64 ultimate still works GREAT and rarely if ever crashes) and have a modern system with it, you should be able to call MS and explain you are "upgrading" (don't say "new", say "upgrading" your current PC and are installing a faster, better hard drive and also are upgrading the main board as your old one is damaged. They'll ask for the key on the panel, and assist you in transferring the license. Keep that old key though if you toss the PC.

Anyways good luck with the build. I originally bought a "custom" PC from a local kid that built one, outgrew it within a year, then went ahead and scrapped everything but the case and built my own as this was still new territory to me at the time as I never considered it before. I made a few mistakes along the way like trying to hack a bios to allow for OC which bricked said board, bought a replacement MSI board which was too limited but an excellent board nonetheless before settling on a much better AMD board, and had cheaper RAM sticks fail in under a year.

You definitely get what you pay for, so if you are on a really low budget, I suggest saving up a little longer or sell things for quick cash you no longer need, etc. and put quality parts in, along with looking 2-4 years in the future so you won't have to constantly upgrade.

Hey there, those are some answer for mine. I still have some question because I don't know how to choose the one which last longer.

I have a list of those parts, can I e-mail you so that you can give me some suggestions ?

 

[DonkeyOatie]

As far as the i5 is concerned it is all about price/performance. The 'sweet spot' for Mhz per dollar is the i5 4460; it gives the best performance for price for gaming systems. We need to know how much money you want to spend so we can advise you on the best choices.

This is a very solid, and powerful gaming system using good parts.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($176.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Zeus Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.06 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($295.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: XFX XTR 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($101.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $878.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-24 09:32 EDT-0400

My students build this sort of thing.


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2516487/build-log-mini-itx-middle-school-student-build.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2328703/build-log-mini-itx-middle-school.html

 

[gerr]

A lot of our recommendations are dependant on your budget. Also let us know if that budget is for the PC box itself, or if it has to include a monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers, and OS and that does make a difference.

Read the System Builder Marathon articles for good examples at different budgets.

 

[Conductor Jack]

As far as the i5 is concerned it is all about price/performance. The 'sweet spot' for Mhz per dollar is the i5 4460; it gives the best performance for price for gaming systems. We need to know how much money you want to spend so we can advise you on the best choices.

This is a very solid, and powerful gaming system using good parts.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($176.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Zeus Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.06 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($295.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: XFX XTR 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($101.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $878.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-24 09:32 EDT-0400

My students build this sort of thing.


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2516487/build-log-mini-itx-middle-school-student-build.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2328703/build-log-mini-itx-middle-school.html

I'm from Malaysia and my budget is about RM 3000 - RM 4500, which about 850 - 1300 US Dollar. But with some certain reasons, i get discounts from one shop so I just only able to make a combinations from the parts they have. So how can I post the list here so any of you can help me to choose?

 

[Conductor Jack]

To all of you , with the link below / from the topic, you will see the list of parts which I'm only able to choose. Please help to give some suggestions.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=100867820246852&id=100009709020921&pnref=story

 

[DonkeyOatie]

You can also link to the store's web-site. Facebook is blocked for me at school.

 

[Conductor Jack]

You can also link to the store's web-site. Facebook is blocked for me at school.

http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/Conductor__Jack/library/?sort=3&page=1
It's photos I captured from the list of shop given

 

[Conductor Jack]

You can also link to the store's web-site. Facebook is blocked for me at school.

I have updated the list at the top message, kindly give your suggestions.

 

[disturbed force]

i5 4690
ASUS H97-PRO
ASUS ATI R9 270 DC20 2GB DDR5 256BIT
KINGSTON HYPER -X FURY 4GB DDR3 -1600RAM (PC) x2
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311
COOLER MASTER G550M 550W POWER SUPPLY
SAMSUNG 24" S24D360HL LED MONITOR, 5MS, VGA &HDMI , 1920 X 1080

You will also need a hard drive, I suggest at least a 1tb and if you can afford it a 120-240gb ssd for your boot drive.

 

[Conductor Jack]

i5 4690
ASUS H97-PRO
ASUS ATI R9 270 DC20 2GB DDR5 256BIT
KINGSTON HYPER -X FURY 4GB DDR3 -1600RAM (PC) x2
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311
COOLER MASTER G550M 550W POWER SUPPLY
SAMSUNG 24" S24D360HL LED MONITOR, 5MS, VGA &HDMI , 1920 X 1080

You will also need a hard drive, I suggest at least a 1tb and if you can afford it a 120-240gb ssd for your boot drive.

I had take a look on your suggestion and it's for budget over $800. Can you give another with lower budget ?

 

[DonkeyOatie]

Thanks for posting that. You have a very limited selection.

These motherboards are the only ones I would consider

ASUS H81M-D
ASUS B85M-G
ASUS B85-PRO
ASUS H97M-E
ASUS H97-PLUS
ASUS H97-PRO 475
ASUS H97M-PLUS
ASUS Z97-A


i5 4460 475
ASUS H97-PRO 475
1Tb HDD 229
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 260X 2GB C DDR5 128BIT 489
COOLER MASTER 550W POWER SUPPLY 249
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 CASING (WIHTOUT POWER SUPPLY) 159

This totals 2076 RM

For RAM
TEAM DDR3 4GB PC-1600 / PC-1333 (Get two 1600 Mhz sticks)
TEAM DDR3 8GB PC-1600 (or for gaming, one of these will show no significant performance difference because your system limit is the GPU, not the CPU/memory) If 1 x 8 is cheaper, then 2 x 4, get it. (Needs to be 1600Mhz though and small/low CAS/CL - 8, 9, or 10.)
Samsung monitors are generally better than Acer, but it's a place you can save.
How much for the operating system? Windows 7 may be cheaper than Windows 8.

 

[Conductor Jack]

Thanks for all the advice, will have further question to be.

 

[Conductor Jack]

Thanks for posting that. You have a very limited selection.

These motherboards are the only ones I would consider

ASUS H81M-D
ASUS B85M-G
ASUS B85-PRO
ASUS H97M-E
ASUS H97-PLUS
ASUS H97-PRO 475
ASUS H97M-PLUS
ASUS Z97-A


i5 4460 475
ASUS H97-PRO 475
1Tb HDD 229
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 260X 2GB C DDR5 128BIT 489
COOLER MASTER 550W POWER SUPPLY 249
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 CASING (WIHTOUT POWER SUPPLY) 159

This totals 2076 RM

For RAM
TEAM DDR3 4GB PC-1600 / PC-1333 (Get two 1600 Mhz sticks)
TEAM DDR3 8GB PC-1600 (or for gaming, one of these will show no significant performance difference because your system limit is the GPU, not the CPU/memory) If 1 x 8 is cheaper, then 2 x 4, get it. (Needs to be 1600Mhz though and small/low CAS/CL - 8, 9, or 10.)
Samsung monitors are generally better than Acer, but it's a place you can save.
How much for the operating system? Windows 7 may be cheaper than Windows 8.

Can i ask what you meant about : show no significant performance difference due to GPU ?

 

[DonkeyOatie]

There is no significant difference between 1 x 8Gb and 2 x 4Gb memory configuration for gaming as far as speed is concerned, because the limiting factor in your build will be your GPU. 1 x 8Gb is often a little cheaper. Speeding up the CPU doesn't do much when the limit is your GPU.

 

[Conductor Jack]

Thanks for posting that. You have a very limited selection.

These motherboards are the only ones I would consider

ASUS H81M-D
ASUS B85M-G
ASUS B85-PRO
ASUS H97M-E
ASUS H97-PLUS
ASUS H97-PRO 475
ASUS H97M-PLUS
ASUS Z97-A


i5 4460 475
ASUS H97-PRO 475
1Tb HDD 229
SAPPHIRE ATI R7 260X 2GB C DDR5 128BIT 489
COOLER MASTER 550W POWER SUPPLY 249
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 CASING (WIHTOUT POWER SUPPLY) 159

This totals 2076 RM

For RAM
TEAM DDR3 4GB PC-1600 / PC-1333 (Get two 1600 Mhz sticks)
TEAM DDR3 8GB PC-1600 (or for gaming, one of these will show no significant performance difference because your system limit is the GPU, not the CPU/memory) If 1 x 8 is cheaper, then 2 x 4, get it. (Needs to be 1600Mhz though and small/low CAS/CL - 8, 9, or 10.)
Samsung monitors are generally better than Acer, but it's a place you can save.
How much for the operating system? Windows 7 may be cheaper than Windows 8.

There is no significant difference between 1 x 8Gb and 2 x 4Gb memory configuration for gaming as far as speed is concerned, because the limiting factor in your build will be your GPU. 1 x 8Gb is often a little cheaper. Speeding up the CPU doesn't do much when the limit is your GPU.

I had searched what GPU really is, and it took me hours for nothing. Can you briefly explain what is that, how it looks and what it functions?

 

[DonkeyOatie]

GPU = Graphics Processing Unit. The discrete graphics card you are using in your build The CPU does the Computer processing, and the GPU does the Graphics processing. Most CPUs also include a basic GPU unit integrated into them, for people with low graphics needs and without a dedicated separate GPU.

In a gamin system, the CPU prepares the information for the GPU. Which ever of the two takes the longest to get its job done becomes the limiting factor and determines the overall system performance. In most gaming machines it is the GPU, so speeding up the CPU a little, does not make the system faster.

 

[Conductor Jack]

GPU = Graphics Processing Unit. The discrete graphics card you are using in your build The CPU does the Computer processing, and the GPU does the Graphics processing. Most CPUs also include a basic GPU unit integrated into them, for people with low graphics needs and without a dedicated separate GPU.

In a gamin system, the CPU prepares the information for the GPU. Which ever of the two takes the longest to get its job done becomes the limiting factor and determines the overall system performance. In most gaming machines it is the GPU, so speeding up the CPU a little, does not make the system faster.

Thanks for that explanation, finally i get it.

I have some research and found those processors obtain a same type of gpu, Intel® HD Graphics 4600. This kind of gpu gives frequency from 350Mhz to 1.1Ghz, and video max memory of 1.7 GB. But what is the frequency and memory does and how far is this gpu can go and do for me?

 

[DonkeyOatie]

Very little. The integrated GPU in a standard Intel chip is not very powerful. My students build computers and we always bench-mark them using their IGPU, then any GPU the student is adding. Using the Unigine Heaven synthetic benchmark as an example, at LOW settings, an i5 4460 using its iGPU scores around 750. When a GTX 750ti is used, a lower mid-range card, the results are about four times better, just over 3000.

Ith integrated graphics is for business and productivity and perhaps watching movies. For modern games, you need a dedicated GPU.


Here's some benchmarks to show just how lame it is. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Intel-HD-Graphics-4600.93188.0.html

 

[Conductor Jack]

GPU = Graphics Processing Unit. The discrete graphics card you are using in your build The CPU does the Computer processing, and the GPU does the Graphics processing. Most CPUs also include a basic GPU unit integrated into them, for people with low graphics needs and without a dedicated separate GPU.

In a gamin system, the CPU prepares the information for the GPU. Which ever of the two takes the longest to get its job done becomes the limiting factor and determines the overall system performance. In most gaming machines it is the GPU, so speeding up the CPU a little, does not make the system faster.

Very little. The integrated GPU in a standard Intel chip is not very powerful. My students build computers and we always bench-mark them using their IGPU, then any GPU the student is adding. Using the Unigine Heaven synthetic benchmark as an example, at LOW settings, an i5 4460 using its iGPU scores around 750. When a GTX 750ti is used, a lower mid-range card, the results are about four times better, just over 3000.

Ith integrated graphics is for business and productivity and perhaps watching movies. For modern games, you need a dedicated GPU.


Here's some benchmarks to show just how lame it is. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Intel-HD-Graphics-4600.93188.0.html

Are the dedicated GPU means to graphic cards?
With the tests shown in the website, I can't find the games I often demand for which is Streamyx Dota2 and FifaOnline3. Are it runs smooth with my build for a long period?
Other than that, how can I improve if the build didn't fit the game?

 

[Conductor Jack]

GPU = Graphics Processing Unit. The discrete graphics card you are using in your build The CPU does the Computer processing, and the GPU does the Graphics processing. Most CPUs also include a basic GPU unit integrated into them, for people with low graphics needs and without a dedicated separate GPU.

In a gamin system, the CPU prepares the information for the GPU. Which ever of the two takes the longest to get its job done becomes the limiting factor and determines the overall system performance. In most gaming machines it is the GPU, so speeding up the CPU a little, does not make the system faster.

Very little. The integrated GPU in a standard Intel chip is not very powerful. My students build computers and we always bench-mark them using their IGPU, then any GPU the student is adding. Using the Unigine Heaven synthetic benchmark as an example, at LOW settings, an i5 4460 using its iGPU scores around 750. When a GTX 750ti is used, a lower mid-range card, the results are about four times better, just over 3000.

Ith integrated graphics is for business and productivity and perhaps watching movies. For modern games, you need a dedicated GPU.


Here's some benchmarks to show just how lame it is. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Intel-HD-Graphics-4600.93188.0.html

Are the dedicated GPU means to graphic cards?
With the tests shown in the website, I can't find the games I often demand for which is Streamyx Dota2 and FifaOnline3. Are it runs smooth with my build for a long period?
Other than that, how can I improve if the build didn't fit the game?

 

[Conductor Jack]

GPU = Graphics Processing Unit. The discrete graphics card you are using in your build The CPU does the Computer processing, and the GPU does the Graphics processing. Most CPUs also include a basic GPU unit integrated into them, for people with low graphics needs and without a dedicated separate GPU.

In a gamin system, the CPU prepares the information for the GPU. Which ever of the two takes the longest to get its job done becomes the limiting factor and determines the overall system performance. In most gaming machines it is the GPU, so speeding up the CPU a little, does not make the system faster.

Very little. The integrated GPU in a standard Intel chip is not very powerful. My students build computers and we always bench-mark them using their IGPU, then any GPU the student is adding. Using the Unigine Heaven synthetic benchmark as an example, at LOW settings, an i5 4460 using its iGPU scores around 750. When a GTX 750ti is used, a lower mid-range card, the results are about four times better, just over 3000.

Ith integrated graphics is for business and productivity and perhaps watching movies. For modern games, you need a dedicated GPU.


Here's some benchmarks to show just how lame it is. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Intel-HD-Graphics-4600.93188.0.html

Are the dedicated GPU means to graphic cards?
With the tests shown in the website, I can't find the games I often demand for which is Streamyx Dota2 and FifaOnline3. Are it runs smooth with my build for a long period?
Other than that, how can I improve if the build didn't fit the game without overclocking?