TUSL2-C Won't Post

JasonR

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Jul 21, 2002
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Hi all,
I recently purchased a second hand TUSL2-C mobo and can't get it to post. I've double checked all the jumpers etc. and everything is configured as it should be for jumperless operation. I even pulled it out of the first case I had installed it in and set it up all over again in a new Antec case with a 350W PS. Problem is the same. Anyone had this problem before ?

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
Thanks for your suggestions. I tried the old power switch trick already and it made no difference. As for the cmos jumper, I can't even find it. I've searched through the manual and searched all over the mobo and can't see it anywhere. Any thoughts ?

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
The clear CMOS jumper is not clearly labeled as such. On page 57 of your manual there is reference to a jumper to "Clear RTC RAM". Short this jumper to clear your CMOS memory and clear it out. Then turn the computer ON, hold down DEL to enter the BIOS and re-enter your used preferences.

You can see the location of this jumper on Page 14. It is called CLRTC and is located directly behind the battery and the Intel I/O controller hub (ICH2)
 
Wow...that's a small jumper. No wonder I couldn't find it. I shorted the jumper and tried booting but still got nothing. All I get is a blank screen. I can hear the HDD spool up and the light for the CD-ROM flickers, but no beeps from the case speaker and just a blank screen to look at. Still baffled.

I cruised around the Asus website but didn't find much of anything. I'm beginning to wonder if the mobo might be a dud.

Thanks once again for all your efforts.

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
Make sure your video card is plugged in securely. If it is, then I'd suggest borrowing a test one from someone you know and trying it out.

Knowledge is the key to understanding
 
It is not clear what exactly you have tried. As a good starting point try booting with ONLY the following.

CPU & Cooler
RAM
Video Card
Power Supply hooked up and for ATX, the switch connector is attached to the MOBO.

I usually plug in the keyboard as well as some MOBO's won't POST without the keyboard.

If it POSTs with only these items then generally speaking your MOBO's OK.

If it does not, then try replacing the video card with one that you know works (PCI instead of AGP if you have one)

If it still does not POST, try replacing the CPU with another that works or try the present CPU in another MOBO.

Finally try replacing the RAM or running the RAM in another MOBO.

If none of this works, then either the MOBO is bad or the BIOS is corrupted. You can try replacing the BIOS, but it is typically not worth the expense.
 
A few other thoughts.

1). Make sure you are not trying to boot with the CLRTC jumper shorted. You should short this only to clear the CMOS. Once that is done, the jumper should be returned to its normal (open) position.

2). If you have a voltage checker, take out the battery on the mobo and test it to see if it is up to snuff. I think it is supposed to be 3volts.

3). Does the on board LED illuminate when you turn on the power? It should be a green LED located between PCI 4 and PCI 5. If it doesn't then you are not getting power to the mobo. Try re-seating the ATX power connector.

4). Double check all connections. Reseat the RAM and the Video card. Are you sure the CPU is properly inserted and that the pins are fully set in the socket?
 
This is driving me nuts. So far, here's what I've tried:

Case # 1 - 200W PS
Case # 2 - 350W PS

GeForce 256 AGP (tested and working in another PC)
GGeForce2 MX 400 AGP (previously installed in the PC I'm trying to upgrade)

2 x 256MB DIMMs @ PC133 (previously working in the PC I'm trying to upgrade)

20GB Quantum Fireball HDD with WinXP Pro installed (previously working in the PC I'm trying to upgrade)

17" Qvision 172 (previously working in the PC I'm trying to upgrade)
21" Digital (currently operating on my other PC)

PS/2 Standard keyboard
USB Keyboard

USB Mouse

I've tried various combinations of this hardware and still get nothing except a blank screen ("yes" the monitor is turned on 🙂. I can hear the HDD spool up for a moment or two, like it usually does, but then nothing else happens.

There is no post, no PC speaker beep and no flicker of the monitor. I even tried booting without the HDD connected, just to see if I could at least get into the BIOS (I read somewhere about WinXP locking you out if you switch the mobo, although I should expect this to happen AFTER post, right?)

I tried shorting the CMOS. I've never done this before. I just touched the two contacts with a paper clip. Will that do the job? In any case, it made no difference.

CPU is a brand new PIII 1.20GHz Tualatin (256K L2)

I reckon I've tried just about everything and I'm starting to think it's a dud mobo. Anyone got any last minute tips before I strangle the dude I bought this board from ?

Sure do appreciate all the great help so far.

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
Grrr...Just tried PCI graphics card and still no joy. Only two things left I can think of and that's try the brand new CPU in another mobo, and disable the Jumper Free mode and try it manually. Still open to suggestions 🙂

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
Pull the board, lay it on a piece of cardboard, and install the graphics, CPU, and RAM. Hook up a power supply. Now try to start it.

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>
 
Hi Crashman. I pulled the mobo and just got done trying this out. Still doesn't work. I also tried disabling the Jumper Free settings and doing it manually (100:100 and 133:133) but still couldn't get a post. The only thing left to try that I can think off is to try out the CPU in another mobo (brand new PIII 1.20GHz Tualatin - not likely to be a dud) I'll try this tonight over at a friends house.

Thanks once again for your help. Gotta love this forum 🙂

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
Well I figured out what's wrong. CPU is dead ! I plugged it into a friends PC tonight and it wouldn't post. Put his original CPU back in and it fired up without a problem. I'll call Googlegear tomorrow and get an RMA.

Many thanks to everyone for all your help.

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
So he has the same board as you? Or are you telling me about your board when I ask about his?

The reason I ask about his and not yours is, I already know what board you have and that it's compatable. But if his isn't, any test you performed with it would be invalid. Since most Socket 370 board (excluding yours and a few others) are incompatable, you would really have to make sure HIS was compatable before using it for testing.

But then if he has the same board as you, you're right, it's the CPU.

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>
 
D'oh!!! I didn't check his mobo for FCPGA2. In fact I'm not sure what he has (been a long day ya know 🙂. Tomorrow I'll drop his proc in my mobo and see what happens. In the mean time I'll try and find someone locally with a compatible mobo I can use to test the proc properly.

This did get me thinking about the voltage I/O setting on the mobo. I have it set at the default setting of 3.40V. Is this still correct for a Tualatin ? (don't they run on lower voltage?)

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
D'oh!!! I didn't check his mobo for FCPGA2. In fact I'm not sure what he has (been a long day ya know 🙂. Tomorrow I'll drop his proc in my mobo and see what happens. In the mean time I'll try and find someone locally with a compatible mobo I can use to test the proc properly.

This did get me thinking about the voltage I/O setting on the mobo. I have it set at the default setting of 3.40V. Is this still correct for a Tualatin ? (don't they run on lower voltage?)

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***
 
3.30v is the correct I/O voltage, Asus uses 3.4v by default to add stability, compensating for such things as inacurate power supplies and mild overclocking.

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>
 
Crashman is right. Not all mobo's support Tualatin processors. When you try your friend's processor in your mobo, it should resolve the issue. If his processor is not a Tualatin and the your mobo is no go, then your mobo is probably bad. Reset your mobo to jumperfree before you test, or set all jumpers manually to match his processor.
The fact that your processor does not work in his mobo is most likely meaningless if his mobo does not support Tualatin processors.

Given all you have tried, it seems reasonable that either the mobo or the cpu is bad.
 
Well it's definitely a dud mobo. I tried 1GHz and 800MHz CPU's in it last night and neither would POST. Both are known working CPU's. I also tried my 1.2GHz Tualatin in another TUSL2-C and it booted.

Many thanks to all who offered help/suggestions. I truly appreciate all your help.

Cheers,
JasonR

*** Most PC problems can be fixed by using a bigger hammer ***