[SOLVED] Unknown Problem need help ASAP

[Skippy2416]

Ok so I put my computer to sleep the other day. And during that time there was a power outage, I have a good surge protector so nothing was damaged just the PC turned off. Now when I try to turn on my newly built computer it goes straight to sleep mode, I am able to get into bios and all just that I can not wake my computer up it seems, I do not even know if this is sleep mode or not. I did a PC wipe and kept all my personal files but it did not fix the problem. I have a Ryzen 3600, on a b450 board, with a 1660ti. It was working fine the other day.

 

[Colif]

Do you go through the login process? what happens at startup?

Does monitor turn off or can you see a backlight?

It can't be sleep if you did a reset, and it still happens. So reset process ran fine the entire process but when you restart its back to this?

you could do a clean install, it might be a setting in your user profile. Since you saved files/settings, its possible a setting is to blame.

Do you have a win 10 installer? If not, on another PC, download the Windows 10 media creation tool and use it to make a win 10 installer on USB

You can save anything off PC you have to keep by doing this
boot from installer
on screen after languages, choose repair this pc, not install.
choose troubleshoot
choose advanced
choose command prompt
type notepad and press enter
in notepad, select file>open
Use file explorer to copy any files you need to save to USB or hdd

Once you copied everything off, try a clean install and see if that changes anything
follow this guide: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq/how-to-do-a-clean-installation-of-windows-10.3170366/

If that doesn't fix it, its likely something broke during the power outage. My guess is its the GPU since its turning screen off as soon as you do anything more strenous than running at low res in setup screens. I wouldn't take my word for it though... I would get PC looked at by a repair shop. Hopefully its just windows being dumb.

 

[Darkbreeze]

First of all, if you're "surge protector" cost less than, on average, 200 dollars, then it's probably useless for anything other than giving YOU a false sense of security. That is to say that if it is not a well trusted industrial brand and model, such as Tripp Lite, Eaton, Leviton, GE or half a dozen other industrial hardware suppliers, then it is worthless when it comes to actually offering ANY protection, at all. 20-75 dollar Monster, Belkin, Amazon basics and other well known power strip surge protector brands use extremely minimal movs in these units and anything substantial will not be stopped by the minimal, poor quality protections in these units. Not that I'm saying yours was, this is just for your information. Do not trust any of these kinds of protections, because they aren't, much protection at all. Don't be fooled by the "guarantees" either. They are worthless as well. Find me ONE person who has ever collected on a guarantee from any of these companies and I'll STFU. But you won't, because there aren't any. Now, if it was a highly reputable company like Tripp Lite, and if there is a guarantee against damage from them, then that is a believable situation.

I would recommend that you do this, before you go any further.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.


And if that is no help, then I'd suggest that as Colif has mentioned, a clean install would be the next order of business after backing up any important documents and files which might require you to connect the drive to another system to access them if the system won't boot into windows. Have you tried booting into safe mode at all?

 

[Darkbreeze]

If the display works fine to install Windows or reset it, then it's doubtful, but possible, that the graphics card or power supply were damaged. Again, very possible, because unless you have a REAL piece of protective hardware in place, it's unlikely it stopped anything at all.

 

[Colif]

I always unplug my PC if there is a whiff of a storm around, as although I do have surge protector, it only saves one... and then it needs to be replaced, so I prefer to save it for when i am not expecting it.

I don't use sleep, hibernate or fast startup though, so my PC is off when its off. Simple power outages can mess up how win 10 boots now, not worth the trouble.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, I recommend disabling fast startup and hybrid sleep in the power options, or simply running the command line option to completely disable hibernation, which does the same thing. Useless features that cause more problems than they solve anyhow.

 

[Skippy2416]

ok I want to clarify some more things that came up. The power outage was in a different location from my computer, and I found out from my roommate that there was no power outage where my computer currently is. Now what came up recently is that I am able to enter the troubleshooting page about 1/3rd of the time I try booting up. I am only able to get here when I hit the bios key selecting the boot manager in the ssd I use as my boot drive, from there I am able to enter safe mode.

Once I was able to do that I turned off my computer and tried booting again into windows regularly. And it goes back into what it was doing before. Which is once the bios screen passes the screen turns off and am getting no output from the computer like it is in safe mode. I am not even able to get and windows loading screen or log in. I want to make that clear, the only windows related thing I am able to get to is the troubleshooting screen. I am able to enter bios screen and safe mode only if the troubleshooting screen comes up, and it does not come up automatically. I did a troubleshoot restart and I got a message saying it can not fix the problem.

I even did a wipe and had it install windows 10 again, and during that installing progress it got to 9% and then the screen went black, then the monitor switched in and out of rest mode for a bit and then it went to the bios screen like before and the problem continues.

I do not know if this helps explain my problem, but any feedback or advice is greatly needed. Because I would rather spend my money on a new part than spend it on a computer repair that might not fix the problem.

 

[Darkbreeze]

What is the EXACT model of your power supply?

 

[Skippy2416]

What is the EXACT model of your power supply?

It is the Corsair CX650M. I got it refurbished off of amazon

 

[Darkbreeze]

Who was the seller? Amazon, Corsair or a 3rd party seller? Can you check your purchase and see who the seller ACTUALLY was? In this case, I think it might matter.

 

[Skippy2416]

Who was the seller? Amazon, Corsair or a 3rd party seller? Can you check your purchase and see who the seller ACTUALLY was? In this case, I think it might matter.

From what amazon showed me it was Sophia Smokes, so a third party it seems. And just so happens the return date ended october 3rd .

 

[Darkbreeze]

Return was probably not going to happen from 3rd party seller anyhow. They've have claimed it was your fault. In the future, I recommend to NEVER buy anything electronic that is "refurbished" from any 3rd party seller on Amazon or Ebay. Ever. Refurbished FROM Amazon, or from the manufacturer on Ebay, or even from a retailer like Newegg on Ebay, is one thing. It's generally actually "refurbished".

"Refurbished" from a 3rd party seller, generally means squat. It means they blew it out, wiped it down and put it back in the original box and then sold it to you.

That is where I'd start for sure. However, it's probably worth testing first so if you have access to or can buy a cheap volt meter, usually a few bucks at most home centers, Walmart, places like that, then you can at least test basic function. It won't definitively tell you that the unit is good, but it CAN definitively tell you that the unit is BAD, if you are below or out of spec.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw

 

[Skippy2416]

Return was probably not going to happen from 3rd party seller anyhow. They've have claimed it was your fault. In the future, I recommend to NEVER buy anything electronic that is "refurbished" from any 3rd party seller on Amazon or Ebay. Ever. Refurbished FROM Amazon, or from the manufacturer on Ebay, or even from a retailer like Newegg on Ebay, is one thing. It's generally actually "refurbished".

"Refurbished" from a 3rd party seller, generally means squat. It means they blew it out, wiped it down and put it back in the original box and then sold it to you.

That is where I'd start for sure. However, it's probably worth testing first so if you have access to or can buy a cheap volt meter, usually a few bucks at most home centers, Walmart, places like that, then you can at least test basic function. It won't definitively tell you that the unit is good, but it CAN definitively tell you that the unit is BAD, if you are below or out of spec.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw

I must thank you for your help, I got a new PSU and the problem persisted so I just tried a new install of Windows and now it is working. Thank you