Question Unstable build with lots of crashes to Windows. Not sure how to interpret the tests. Can someone look over my post and lend a hand?

[KSNomads]

PC Specs:
Mobo: Asus ROG Maximus Z790 Hero,
CPU: 14900k,
GPU: RTX 4090 founders edition
RAM: 128GB (4 x 32) Kingston Fury Beast 5600mt/s,
SSD: WD Black 4TB M.2 2280 7,300MB/s,
PSU: 1000w
OS: Win 11 Pro

This has been my first build in 5 years. I have generally built a new PC every 2-3 years for the last 20 years. Maybe it was luck, but I've always built top-of-the-line and never encountered any issues. I don't even remember QVL tables being a thing?

I built this new PC back in October of 2023. It seemed okay for a while but recently games and applications have started crashing irregularly. The two most common errors in Event Viewer are: c0000005 (access violation error ) with c0000409(Status stack buffer overrun) as a close second.

Most recently the game I've been trying to play has been crashing non-stop to the point of being unplayable. some of the errors pointed toward memory or timing so I suspected RAM. As part of getting my RAM to work with this motherboard in the first place, I had to update the BIOS. So, I updated it again (ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO BIOS 2002) as well as the drivers that Armory Crate said needed to be updated. The crashing seemed to get worse as did the BSODs, which have been pretty rare.

My RAM is not on the QVL tables for the Z790. I honestly didn't even know they were a thing because I'd never used them in the past and had never had issues before. Either way, not being on the QVL made RAM a frontrunner for my concerns. The RAM has passed tests from Windows Memory Diagnostic, Memtest86, and OCCT, all with zero errors though.

Previously this build (with ram config) scored really well on 3dmark. Now I can't even get it to finish a benchmark test. It usually crashes to Windows within the first 30-60 seconds.

I'm lost and not sure where to turn or where to look. I've tested CPU, RAM, and VRAM via OCCT with no errors reported. Trying to run the 3d standard or power tests crashes OCCT back to Windows pretty quickly. The power test seems to also put a load on the GPU as it was pulling about 450w at the time of the crash. So both tests engaging the GPU Failed but CPU ran on its own without issue.

Could the testing indicate a GPU issue? Could it be a RAM issue not being caught by one of the 3 tests? Could it be CPU where it interacts with memory or GPU?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!

Other exceptions logged by Event Viewer (all After Updating the BIOS and Drivers):
c0000374 (status heap corruption)
c000001d (Illegal Instruction)
0x80000003 (exception breakpoint)

BSODs (Also All after updating the BIOS and drivers:

ATTEMPTED_EXECUTE_OF_NOEXECUTE_MEMORY
PROCESS_NAME: VirtualDesktop.Service.exe

CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT (101)
PROCESS_NAME: System

ATTEMPTED_EXECUTE_OF_NOEXECUTE_MEMORY (fc)
PROCESS_NAME: steamwebhelper.exe

UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP (7f)
PROCESS_NAME: Taskmgr.exe

I've reinstalled GPU Drivers, ran SFC /scannow, DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth, DISM /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth, and DISM /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth.

I've tried dropping to 2 DIMM sticks in A2 and B2.

I've updated BIOS and Drivers

I've played with RAM Config (Timing and clock) and re-ran mem tests. The issues persisted through all the stable configurations.

 

[helpstar]

how hot is your CPU and GPU getting?

to have a look what the problem could be:
run userbenchmark.com and post the http link of your result, e.g. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/28977730

Reset the BIOS by jumper clrCMOS or JBAT or similar (eventually you will have to set the boot priority correctly after that)

clean boot
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows

check the memory by running memtest.org usb autoinstaller (bootable USB flash drive)

run the RAM @ standard jedec timings and not with XMP to check if it happens then too

check the hard drive for errors with its manufacturer´s tool and if available, update the firmware

use ddu uninstaller and reinstall the latest graphics driver

 

[Darkbreeze]

The first thing you should REALLY do, is get fracking rid of Armory Crate. It's is nothing but trash and I can't even possibly relate to you how many threads I've been a part of here where simply uninstalling Armory Crate was all that was needed to correct the problems. Same with all the other motherboard manufacturers bundled monitoring/driver/utility applications like Dragon center, etc. Not even joking. And don't EVER use them for updating drivers.

Drivers should ALWAYS be manually updated based on what you can personally see as being the most recently available directly on the manufacturer's product page for your board, or in some cases also on the AMD, Nvidia or Intel websites. No third party driver updaters. No Armory Crate. Etc.

Then, manually install ALL of these Z790 Hero drivers.

Intel LAN driver: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/04LAN/Intel_I226_LAN_NDIS_driver_V1.1.4.38_for_Windows_10_64-bit_and_Windows_11_64-bit_NDIS_1.1.4.38.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO

Intel WiFi driver: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/08WIRELESS/DRV_WiFi_Intel_TP_W11_64_V231008_20231226R.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO

Intel chipset driver: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/03CHIPSET/DRV_Chipset_Intel_21H2_TP_W10_64_V101196008418_20231020R.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO

Realtek audio driver: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/01AUDIO/DRV_Audio_RTK_USB_CNT_DTSP_SP_W11_64_V6396002342_20230330B.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO

Intel bluetooth driver: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/02BT/DRV_Bluetooth_Intel_AX211_TP_W11_64_V231002_20231226R.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO

Intel thunderbolt driver: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1700/M3904/Intel_Thunderbolt_Driver_V1.41.1335.0_WIN10_WIN11_64-bit.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO


Then, I would use the DDU (Display driver uninstaller) to do a clean install of your Nvidia drivers.

Have you, at ANY point, done a clean install of Windows, or are you riding on a OS installation that was an upgrade of an existing Windows 10 installation?

What is the EXACT model of your "1000w PSU" and how long has it been in service/use?

QVL lists have been a thing, like, for about fifteen years. Pretty much ever since high density DDR3 came out, if not before. I don't recall if board manufacturers were providing them prior to that with low density DDR3 but I'm pretty sure they weren't a thing back when DDR2 was common. These days, you would be VERY wise to buy only memory kits that are on the QVL list OR are listed as compatible with a given board on the memory manufacturer's memory compatibility listings. For G.Skill, that's the G.Skill memory configurator. For Corsair it's the Corsair memory finder. For Crucial it's the Crucial memory advisor. For others, not so much, so you're rolling the dice with anything from Kingston, Patriot, etc. if you can't find specific confirmation that it's compatible with your specific board somewhere.

Did all FOUR of your DIMMs come together, in ONE kit, or is it two kits of two DIMMs that did not all come together, regardless of whether they are the same listed model or not.

You may want to test them as well.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

 

[KSNomads]

how hot is your CPU and GPU getting?

to have a look what the problem could be:
run userbenchmark.com and post the http link of your result, e.g. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/28977730

Reset the BIOS by jumper clrCMOS or JBAT or similar (eventually you will have to set the boot priority correctly after that)

clean boot
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows

check the memory by running memtest.org usb autoinstaller (bootable USB flash drive)

run the RAM @ standard jedec timings and not with XMP to check if it happens then too

check the hard drive for errors with its manufacturer´s tool and if available, update the firmware

use ddu uninstaller and reinstall the latest graphics driver

Thanks for the reply, Helstar, I need all the help I can get on this one. I swapped the GPU out for A 2080 I had in another build. I'll run and post your benchmark when I swap it back!

OCCT saves a snapshot at the exact moment it crashes. This crash was from the 3d Standard test. GPU Temps look okay. CPU is throttling at 100C. I'm working on getting a new case. I maxed out cooling in this one. There's no room for additional or larger cooling so I have to swap my case and cooling system.

The RAM passes Windows Memory Diagnostic, OCCT, and Memtest86(bootable from USB) on the default RAM configuration as well as XMP.

The hard drives have built-in health monitors. Both are reporting no errors and 100% health.

I'll try the BIOS reset If Darkbreeze's Manual driver install fails. Drivers (or hardware failure) feels like a bigger potential culprit based on what I'm seeing.

 

[KSNomads]

Thank you, @Darkbreeze, for taking the time for such a well-thought-out reply. I really appreciate it!

The first thing you should REALLY do, is get fracking rid of Armory Crate.

Haha, it's possible I already came to that conclusion once in the past... It was uninstalled when I started troubleshooting driver issues (that appeared to make the situation worse).

Have you, at ANY point, done a clean install of Windows, or are you riding on a OS installation that was an upgrade of an existing Windows 10 installation?

I haven't done a clean install since these problems arose, but, this was a clean install of Windows 11 on a brand new M.2 drive. There was no legacy Windows install that was upgraded.

Did all FOUR of your DIMMs come together, in ONE kit, or is it two kits of two DIMMs that did not all come together, regardless of whether they are the same listed model or not.

They all came together as a pack of 4.

Memtest86

I ran the RAM through Windows Memory Diagnostic, OCCT, and Memtest86(bootable from USB) on the default RAM configuration as well as XMP. No errors are being thrown in either configuration in any of the programs. OCCT tests with Windows running which can sometimes show new problems from what I've read.

I had the feeling QVL tables had been around for a while. I must have just gotten very lucky with my past builds. This was the first one that I had to adjust the settings to get it stable.

Then, manually install ALL of these Z790 Hero drivers.

I'm going to run through all of your suggestions tonight. I have some obligations during the day today.

What is the EXACT model of your "1000w PSU" and how long has it been in service/use?

Here's the exact power supply I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B434DB7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


Additional test since last night:

I didn't have a lot of time before I had to leave for the day, but I had time to swap out my RTX 4090 for an RTX 2080 TI I had in another build.

The build feels much more stable with this new card. I was able to get through several of the Time Spy stress tests before it crashed. It crashed when it hit the CPU stress Test. I chose Time Spy only because I had a limit on time and it generally crashed very quickly. I also started OCCT while I was getting ready for the day. It passed a 30-minute 3d standard stability test on OCCT. It failed after only 1 minute with the 4090. It also ran for 16 minutes on the power test before I had to leave (that failed after 5 minutes with the 4090).

It is throwing far fewer errors in Event Viewer as well. I only have the one crash from Time Spy.

I'm definitly going to try to manually reinstall all of the drivers. The 2080 test makes me feel like it could be CPU or Motherboard-related (highly affected by drivers). It takes a lot more processing power to run the 4090.

 

[KSNomads]

@Darkbreeze, in addition to my first reply to you(see above):

I was able to reschedule my first appointment of the day to buy some time. I used this time to run through what you suggested (minus Memtest86 of course as that takes several hours). That said, if you see my response above, I've already passed Memtest86, all 11 tests from a USB boot drive both without XMP and with. The memory appears to be the only thing acting stable.

I was able to remove Armory Crate and update all of the Z790 drivers you mentioned above. I was also able to run DDU and reinstall the Nvidia Drivers.

After all of this, I started with another attempt at 3dmark Time Spy as it seems the most reliable way to get a crash, now. OCCT is now failing to induce a crash with the 2080.

Things continue to appear more stable with the 2080TI but I've still crashed and gotten both a c0000005 (access violation error ) and a c0000409(Status stack buffer overrun) in Event Viewer. While it feels a little better the issues are still not resolved.

Where do you suggest I go from here? My thoughts are Motherboard or CPU. Unfortunately, I don't have parts lying around that I can swap Motherboard or CPU for to test. Do you feel like we're at the point of an RMA yet? Not even sure I can easily put the 4090 in something else to test it in isolation in a working system. I don't think I have a properly sized PSU in anything that wouldn't throttle the card due to PCIe lanes.

I'm buying a new case and cooling system. Regardless of the issues at hand, there's clearly some heat throttling on the 14900k.

Edit: Here's an overview of CPU crashes:

The GPU tests in Time Spy pass with the 2080 (not the 4090) but fail when it hits the third test, CPU.

The screenshot is of the CPU profile Benchmark. All of them failed to complete. (But didn't log any errors in OCCT). Event Viewer showed both c0000005 and c0000409 exceptions.

 

[Darkbreeze]

You should also consider that your crashing problems might VERY MUCH be due to the fact that you have a 4090, which is WELL KNOWN for having very high power excursions (Transient response spikes) and that your MPG A1000g is equally well known to NOT deal with transient spikes very well at all.

It's even clearly noted in reviews of that unit. For a 4090 I highly recommend a very good 1200w unit. I've seen a bunch of people, including one of our moderators, who've had issues with various flagship AMD and Nvidia cards when it comes to transient spikes causing crashes that were due to either specific models that don't do spikes well or simply not enough capacity to accommodate those power excursions briefly which is more than enough to cause crashes. Again, not saying this IS the reason, but it's very, very possible.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/msi-mpg-a1000g-power-supply-review

However, the fact that you are still having issues when you switch to the 2080 ti might negate that idea somewhat. Still something to be aware of though.

When you swapped to the 2080 ti, did you do a hard reset of the BIOS afterwards? If not, I would try that and see if it makes any difference. A lot of times if there are problems with hardware and you change hardware, the problem does not "fix itself" without forcing the BIOS to change some of the problematic configuration settings found in it's hardware tables. Usually it automatically makes these changes when you swap out hardware but sometimes, some settings just "stick" and you end up with the same problems you had before despite a change of hardware. And be sure to manually install ALL of the drivers I listed. Any one driver can have an effect on any OTHER driver or even ALL other drivers, creating problems and conflicts in some cases that can only be resolved by installing an updated driver that doesn't have that problem when used with a specific configuration of hardware. They update these things for a reason, not just because it's fun. LOL.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Also, if you have not already manually done so, you should use the update power delivery tool to update your PD firmware. If you are unfamiliar then you can Google "ASUS PD firmware update" for a better understanding of what that is.

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...ate_Tool_V016.zip?model=ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO

 

[KSNomads]

@Darkbreeze ,

Thanks, again! I’ll reply to the bulk of this later. I ordered a new AIO and a case to fit it. Regardless of other issues, I’m being throttled and my processor is sustaining temps of 100c under heavy use longer than I’d like.

Based on your comment history you have a ridiculous amount of experience and help a lot of people (I appreciate this, thank you!). Would you mind recommending a PSU? Is this one any good: https://a.co/d/04Ax6Qm?

Aren’t PSU issues generally a PC spontaneously turns off issue? Can it also be a crash to desktop thing?

 

[KSNomads]

@helpstar, Thanks again for the response. You also have quite an impressive number of responses! I appreciate the help. I'm going to reset CMOS tomorrow. I got tied up longer than expected today.

I was able to get the 4090 back in and run the benchmark you suggested. Here are the results: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/67367665

I'm not sure why It's showing as incomplete. It seemed like it ran all the way through.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I think you're on the right path though. If you're hitting 100°C consistently AND having problems, then there is a very good chance it's thermal related or that it's at least A problem, even if it's not the ONLY problem. Should definitely not be hitting 100 and throttling consistently. I'd probably wait on the PSU until after you resolve the thermal issues.

What is your current case?

What is your current case fan configuration, including WHAT fans are in use, where they are in use specifically and in what direction (Intake or exhaust) each of them is configured for?

What is your current CPU cooler?

What is the standard ambient temperature in the room where this computer is used?

No idea on that ROG Thor 1200w Platinum II because I don't see any reputable professional reviews of it yet. Likely it's too new. The original was pretty good so it's probably good too, but sometimes it doesn't work that way so I always like to see a full professional review before giving a thumbs up.

This would be a really good choice though, and it's almost 100 dollars cheaper. Gives you plenty of extra with 1300w so transient will not be a factor AND it has very good reviews with Aris at Hardware busters.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Super Flower LEADEX VII XG 1300 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($189.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Total: $189.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-27 23:35 EST-0500

 

[KSNomads]

@helpstar, @Darkbreeze ,

Do you both feel that this is software or driver-related? I'm going to clear CMOS and try running some tests under a clean boot tomorrow. Would it be advantageous to just run a clean install of Windows? It's usually pretty easy for me to do so. I don't use my C drive for pretty much anything but the OS.

I also have a larger case, a larger AIO, and a 1200w PSU on the way. Could the CPU heat be the cause?

 

[Darkbreeze]

ANY of these things could be the cause, and in fact, ALL of them could be contributing.

It's like being very sick and then finding out you have extremely high blood pressure, diabetes, Covid, gout, pneumonia and kidney stones. Sure, one of them is probably more serious than the others but they are all contributing to the problem of being sick and taking any one of them away isn't really going to fix everything for you. You have to address all the problems with your health so you can get back to where you should be because fixing just one or two of them is still going to leave you feeling pretty damn bad.

But thermal issues kill hardware, so when there is a thermal issue THAT is the absolute first thing you want to correct. Doing a clean install of Windows followed immediately by a manual installation of each of the drivers I listed earlier would not be a bad idea at all, even if that isn't the core problem. Especially since that medicine costs you nothing other than a some time.

It would be helpful if you could answer the questions I posted in my last post and include the specs for the existing hardware AND the hardware that is on the way.

 

[helpstar]

could be
could also be incompatibility or a hardware fault
did you run userbenchmark yet?
check the temps. while running it as well, with coretwmp or similar

 

[Darkbreeze]

Userbenchmark is a paid service now behind a paywall. Other than for quickly seeing any glaring configuration problems it's always been mostly worthless anyhow.

Of more use would be running downloading, installing and running HWinfo (Choose Sensors Only option when you start it up) and then take screenshots of all the sensors (Typically have to scroll down a few times between screenshots to capture them all) while running the machine with the kind of tasks that typically causes it to have issues. Taking additional screenshots with it simply idling on the desktop can be useful too.

 

[KSNomads]

@Darkbreeze. I ordered everything. It's probably easier for me to just get it done all at once and I was already thinking of upgrading PSU as shortly after the build others mentioned 1000W might be underpowered.

I ended up going with the Thor, only because I hadn't heard back yet and I saw some good reviews online. Its predecessor was listed as one of the best. Where do you go for professional reviews?

What is your current case?

Haha, it's not a looker for all of the fancy parts, but I've always loved this case and it kept the ridiculously large GPU vertical which I also liked: https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/legacy-products/cases/haf-xb/

What is your current CPU cooler?

I was limited to 240mm by space - MSI MAG Coreliquid P240 - AIO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09931VWWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've got this one coming:
MSI k360 v2 coming.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFSV727M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

What is the standard ambient temperature in the room where this computer is used?

The ambient temp here is 62-65ish, but I'm in a desert now, which is new to me. Thermal exchange is a little different without the humidity.

 

[KSNomads]

@helpstar, I ran the benchmark and posted it above. I think two comments above the one you're responding to.

https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/67367665

 

[helpstar]

did it crash while running this bench? how hot was the cpu?

 

[Darkbreeze]

So what case did you order?

How many case fans are you going to be running, and what models are they? Where are you planning to install the AIO cooler and in what configuration (Intake, exhaust)?

Honestly, I'd cancel the order for the Thor, save yourself 100 bucks and get the Super Flower unit I linked to. It's a better power supply than almost any of the comparable ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 models out there right now, which is not surprising, since they are the manufacturers of EVGA's almost legendary G2, P2, T2, G3 and G7 units as well as their own multiple generations of Leadex models. But, you gotta do you so it's just my suggestion.

 

[KSNomads]

Userbenchmark is a paid service now behind a paywall. Other than for quickly seeing any glaring configuration problems it's always been mostly worthless anyhow.

Of more use would be running downloading, installing and running HWinfo (Choose Sensors Only option when you start it up) and then take screenshots of all the sensors (Typically have to scroll down a few times between screenshots to capture them all) while running the machine with the kind of tasks that typically causes it to have issues. Taking additional screenshots with it simply idling on the desktop can be useful too.

@Darkbreeze The issue with taking screenshots while I perform the type of activities that cause the issues, is that they're all full-screen (or completely random). I can see if it will also cause the issue in windowed mode.

I downloaded the app and took idle screenshots.

 

[Darkbreeze]

As for PSU reviews, there are several places to get decent ones but primarily here on Tom's hardware, Tweaktown, Techspot and TechPowerUp,

BUT, the absolute first place you should ever look for any PSU reviews is on Aris site located at https://hwbusters.com/

He is basically the most knowledgeable and highest regarded PSU reviewer on the planet. He's also one of the founders of Cybenetics.

Cybenetics Labs – PSU Efficiency & Noise Level Certifications

www.cybenetics.com

 

[KSNomads]

did it crash while running this bench? how hot was the cpu?

It did crash once and it varied between 60c and 90c

 

[KSNomads]

So what case did you order?

How many case fans are you going to be running, and what models are they? Where are you planning to install the AIO cooler and in what configuration (Intake, exhaust)?

Honestly, I'd cancel the order for the Thor, save yourself 100 bucks and get the Super Flower unit I linked to. It's a better power supply than almost any of the comparable ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 models out there right now, which is not surprising, since they are the manufacturers of EVGA's almost legendary G2, P2, T2, G3 and G7 units as well as their own multiple generations of Leadex models. But, you gotta do you so it's just my suggestion.

I might try to cancel and see if they'll catch it in time. If not, returns are easy and the case is still a week out.

I went with the HYTE Y60 because it will take the 360mm radiator. Though, honestly might go liquid-cooled in the near future and utilize both radiator positions or pipe everything outside the case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TPZ5R6B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I haven't picked fans yet, but I plan on maxing it out. Do you have a suggestion for fans?

 

[Darkbreeze]

I haven't picked fans yet, but I plan on maxing it out. Do you have a suggestion for fans?

Well, if I'm being honest, and since you're running one of the hottest CPUs there's ever been, I think you picked the wrong case. That case ONLY supports 120mm fans which means you aren't going to move as MUCH air as you would with 140mm fans and trying to do so is going to mean a louder overall experience since those 120mm fans are going to have to work much harder to move the same amount of air that a 140mm fan can at a lower RPM.

But, it's not the end of the world and you can still manage a much better amount of airflow than your current HAF-XB, which was a pretty good case for it's time but I agree it's kind of dated now for this kind of system.

I'd suggest these, assuming you are more worried about performance than bling, in which case RGB capability becomes irrelevant. You can get fans with very good performance or you can get fans with RGB. You aren't going to get fans with very good performance AND RGB, not on the same level anyhow. If you're willing to split the difference, there are a few pretty decent RGB models out there but you'll sacrifice some performance and some noise to do so.

PCPartPicker Part List

Case Fan: Noctua F12 PWM chromax.black.swap 54.97 CFM 120 mm Fan ($24.75 @ Amazon)
Total: $24.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-28 13:29 EST-0500



But if those are too rich for your blood, which, based on your PSU and case selections I'd say is unlikely, Arctic makes a pretty decent budget fan. They are not on the same level though, at all. But for the price, the Arctic fans are pretty good. Not to mention they have this white option which would match your case. Noctua has white fans coming at some point later this year supposedly, but that roadmap has been pushed back several times so far so........


PCPartPicker Part List

Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 Max 81.04 CFM 120 mm Fan ($14.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $14.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-28 13:33 EST-0500

 

[KSNomads]

@Darkbreeze , Thanks again for all the input. I've really appreciated all the help!

Unfortunately, I might be going partially bling now that this case is so big. My wife and I sold a merchandising company we built and moved into a skoolie while we build our shop and house. Space is at a minimum so going bigger than the HAF-XB means it has to be a showpiece so it looks good where it sits.

That said, those Noctuas aren't bad-looking.

Edit:

That case ONLY supports 120mm fans which means you aren't going to move as MUCH air as you would with 140mm fans

According to the details on Amazon, the side and bottom positions, both support 140mm fans.


I'm starting to wonder if I had a total failure of my AIO pump. I realized today that the program you recommended, HWiNFO64, had a resettable min/max trigger. I didn't need to keep an eye on it to record temps, so I started testing various apps with it. Not only am I exceeding 100C on occasion (102c), but It's spiking there in seconds under load. I checked the temps when I first built the machine, and I was getting hotter than I liked, but nothing like this. After it spikes, something as simple as opening photoshop will spike me to over 100C.