Question Upgraded PSU now PC won't get passed BIOS and more

[Kai0202]

I recently bought a 700W modular PSU, more specifically the Silverstone ST70F-PB, my old one was a non-mod 550W PSU from EVGA, so I decided to upgrade.

I hooked up all the correct cables, to make sure I done this I even followed a tutorial to make sure I got EVERYTHING right, heres the problem. The furthest I can get into my PC is the BIOS, my SSD shows up in the list of drives but my HDD does not, I've checked both SATA power and DATA cables on both, switched them around and everything no matter what I do the HDD is not recognized. I can't boot into windows, I just get sent in BIOS loop each time I try. I need help bad and I really don't want to have to pay some guy $50 just for him to fix it in 2 minutes.

All the things I've tried to remedy this:
Try different cables (PSU came with two copies of SATA cables)
Switched the SSDs and HDDs cables around including data cables
Made sure every single cable is securely plugged in
Reset BIOS to optimised default
Listened closely to my HDD to make sure its still alive and kicking, it is.
Broke down over it causing my mental health to become erratic and causing me major stress, that didn't work.
Literally everything I can think of, spent hours on the internet searching for an answer. Nothing.

If at the very least I can get into Windows, I think I know how I can get my HDD recognised, any and all help are appreciated.
Thank you an advanced.


Here is my build, EVERY part.

CPU: Intel - Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus - H110M-K Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - NT Series 8 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Storage: Kingston - HyperX Fury 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition
Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Silverstone - Strider Plus 700 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.88 CFM 120mm Fans
Monitor: BenQ - XL2411Z 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor

 

[jojesa]

If you try the old EVGA PSU does the system works?
By the way, your system does not need a PSU with more wattage that what you already had.
What was the model of the EVGA unit?

 

[ko888]

Did your HDD fail?

Is the drive containing the boot partition set as the primary boot drive in the BIOS setup's boot order?

 

[Kai0202]

If you try the old EVGA PSU does the system works?
By the way, your system does not need a PSU with more wattage that what you already had.
What was the model of the EVGA unit?

XFX - TS550W, turns out it was XFX not EVGA. I'm aware my system doesn't need 700W but I plan on upgrading to a 3000 series Ryzen as well as a better GPU eventually. I could've got a 600W but it was $10 more than the 700W so I thought I might as well just get the 700W to future proof a little. Also I haven't tried my old PSU yet as it isn't modular and therefore insanely time consuming to plug in and I don't have any spare cable ties on me.

Did your HDD fail?

Is the drive containing the boot partition set as the primary boot drive in the BIOS setup's boot order?

I believe it is the primary boot driver, any idea on how to make sure it is?

 

[hang-the-9]

If someone can fix an issue quick, you are not paying them for the time to do the fix, you are paying them for the time they spend learning how to fix it quickly and correctly in the years before.
Since issue started when you changed the PSU, the most likely thing is that you did not connect something properly or disconnected something, or maybe even damaged something.

See if the drive is seen in another system as a secondary or using a USB enclosure. If it's good, you should at least be able to see the files in it on another system.

 

[Kai0202]

If someone can fix an issue quick, you are not paying them for the time to do the fix, you are paying them for the time they spend learning how to fix it quickly and correctly in the years before.

I'm aware of that, all I was saying is that if its an issue I can fix then why should I pay $50 for someone to fix it for me?

the most likely thing is that you did not connect something properly or disconnected something, or maybe even damaged something.

As stated before I have made sure everything is connected properly and securely, I don't have carpeted floors anywhere near my computer so static wasn't a problem. I handled all of my hardware in a safe and steady fashion, I had all day to do this so time wasn't an issue, non of it was rushed so I don't see how I would've damaged any components. Side note: The 6pin SATA on the side that connects to the PSU has 6 holes but only 5 metal connects in those holes (pictured belows) is this normal or is this the problem?

Whilst its a possibility that I did break a component, due to the circumstances I think this is highly unlikely.

 

[Unolocogringo]

Is that the card end or the power supply end?
The card end should have 6 connectors.
The power supply end could be different as it may have common grounds on 2 pins.

 

[Kai0202]

Is that the card end or the power supply end?
The card end should have 6 connectors.
The power supply end could be different as it may have common grounds on 2 pins.

The powersupply end, the other end is sata cables.

 

[Dugimodo]

Is the BIOS battery ok and it's keeping all the setting and date/time when the power is disconnected? I was wondering if the BIOS reset and you need to set the AHCI settings and boot order again. I've had all kinds of weird boot problems from a flat BIOS battery before.

Also to try your old PSU there's no need to reinstall it or cut any cable ties, just sit it beside the PC and plug everything in, not pretty but functional for a test.
I've done this a lot to prove PSU faults.

Finally make sure you are plugging the SATA cables into the right place on the PSU end, they often use similar connectors for more than one thing like SATA and PCIE(Graphics) and the 4/8 pin PSU connectors but they don't all have the same voltages on the same pins.

 

[Kai0202]

Is the BIOS battery ok and it's keeping all the setting and date/time when the power is disconnected? I was wondering if the BIOS reset and you need to set the AHCI settings and boot order again. I've had all kinds of weird boot problems from a flat BIOS battery before.

Also to try your old PSU there's no need to reinstall it or cut any cable ties, just sit it beside the PC and plug everything in, not pretty but functional for a test.
I've done this a lot to prove PSU faults.

Finally make sure you are plugging the SATA cables into the right place on the PSU end, they often use similar connectors for more than one thing like SATA and PCIE(Graphics) and the 4/8 pin PSU connectors but they don't all have the same voltages on the same pins.

How do I access AHCI settings? I will try my old PSU in a while.

 

[jojesa]

If the old PSU works just fine I would return that unit and get a more reliable PSU.
Even though it looks like that PSU should be better, you just downgraded to a less reliable cheaply made unit. The 1-year warranty gives it away.
I will go with Corsair (TXM series), Seasonic (Focus plus) or EVGA (B2, G3, G1+ series)
A realiable 650W PSU will be just fine, even if you go with Ryzen 3000 series and a RTX 2080.
Don't just go by the wattage.