USB 3.0 Drivers for Windows 10 that don't pop a power limit?

Cooly568

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Oct 17, 2014
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Hey, so, dumb question, sorry for asking here, but I can't find my answer on other forums.

I own a Gigabyte P34G V2, and it's a laptop, but it's been designed with a special USB 3.0 port to use for charging. This port should charge at 1 amp, compared to a usual USB 3.0 port's 0.5, But it has some odd behavior on my Winodws 10 OS for me.

So, the Gigabyte Smart Manager I have has charging enabled, for sleep and hibernation, everything on, and I got a USB power checker to check voltage and amperage.

Every other port on the laptop does 0.44 Amps, but this port refuses to work properly.

When plugging it in, it will spike up to 0.88, and then stop outputting power altogether, before turning back on at 0.44 Amps.

I post this in the Windows 10 section because I believe the issue has to deal with drivers, and not with the hardware or anything, I have BIOS settings set for it to charge as well.

Sorry if this is in the wrong place!
 
Solution
Those "limits" are hardware based, you won't find drivers that remove physical limitations. Most likely the polyfuse burned out from your tests and devices, give it a week of rest (don't use the port) and if it still doesn't work you'll have to RMA or live with it. You should always use a dedicated charger for phones though, no sense in draining your battery and breaking your laptop for something a $15 charger can do a better job for!
Those "limits" are hardware based, you won't find drivers that remove physical limitations. Most likely the polyfuse burned out from your tests and devices, give it a week of rest (don't use the port) and if it still doesn't work you'll have to RMA or live with it. You should always use a dedicated charger for phones though, no sense in draining your battery and breaking your laptop for something a $15 charger can do a better job for!
 
Solution

Cooly568

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Edit post, through some dinking around, I somehow have it charging on 0.86 Amps. I have a USB Y cable plugged into both USB 3.0 ports, going into a Powerjive amp/volt checker, and a micro USB cable also going into the Power Jive from one of the two USB 2.0 ports, and this is somehow charging my tablet at 0.88 Amps. What?

Edit edit, I somehow got it powering out at 1.25 Amps. I don't even know how.
 


That's also a very stupid thing to do, since you'll be destroying the battery. And in fact, most laptops are actually worse pound for pound than a dedicated battery, since your 10Ah (all your units were backwards, 10000MAh is 100000000000000 mAh, or enough to drive a Tesla Model S from your house to the moon and back about 250 times!) battery is enough to charge your phone a dozen times over and smaller ones like my 3300mAh battery weigh very little and provide two day's worth of charge for my phone.


Internal resistance is halved if you use two ports, and the fact that it's giving you reasonable but low results leads me to think my original statement was correct, the fuse is damaged and lowering output. Give it a rest (literally) and it might fix itself.
 

Cooly568

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Oh, well, okay. I had wanted to keep the laptop in my backpack asleep to charge my tablet with, keeping it topped instead. But, I use a Windows tablet with an Atom x5-Z8300, will a 10400 mAh battery keep it charged for an entire day? (sorryitslateandimtired)
 


Depends on the tablet, the Surface 3 doesn't even need the battery for ~10 hours use! Most likely there's just some power setting you have screwed up, an x5 tablet with an internal 32WHr battery should last several days in standby and at least 6 continuous hours of use during the day.

Given a 10400mAh 3.7V battery is ~37WHr, it should give one full extra charge to a regular tablet, two charges if the tablet is small