Question USB 3.0 TO GIGABIT ETHERNET Performance Overhead.

Nov 14, 2023
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I have a old system, i7 3770 on a generic H61 motherboard. The onboard ethernet caps out at 100mbps while I have a 200mbps fiber. I also need to transfer large files sometimes to my laptop and the fastest way would be through my home network but my current fast onboard ethernet is bottlenecking the transfer speeds.

I have stumbled upon these USB 3.0 to Gigabit ethernet adapters. Would they degrade my pc's performance? I also intend to do a little bit of streaming (obs 1080p nvenc) and perhaps downloading files while I work. Are they as good as a onboard / PCIE NICs?

I can't get a PCIE NIC as the current x1 slot is blocked by my gpu.
 
Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

You may not need anything else at all. Some troubleshooting may discover a problem.

What is printed along the side of current Ethernet cable?

Have you tried another known working (> 100 mbps) Ethernet cable?

= = = =

Run "ipconfig /all" (without quotes) via the Command Prompt and post the results herein.

You should be able to copy and paste the results with no need to retype everything.

"ipconfig /all" may show other problems and issues that could be limiting transfer speeds.

Which specific USB 3.0 to Gigabit adapters are you considering?
 
Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

You may not need anything else at all. Some troubleshooting may discover a problem.

What is printed along the side of current Ethernet cable?

Have you tried another known working (> 100 mbps) Ethernet cable?

= = = =

Run "ipconfig /all" (without quotes) via the Command Prompt and post the results herein.

You should be able to copy and paste the results with no need to retype everything.

"ipconfig /all" may show other problems and issues that could be limiting transfer speeds.

Which specific USB 3.0 to Gigabit adapters are you considering?
i7-3770,
Esonic H61 FEL-U ,
16GB DDR3,
Zotac 1660SUPER
256GB Kingston A400 + 500GB WD BLUE
Corsair VS650


Here's the result from ipconfig. ( I have removed the ip addresses)

Code:
Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : DESKTOP-
   Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . :
   Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   DNS Suffix Search List. . . . . . :

Ethernet adapter Ethernet:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . :
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . :
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Tuesday, November 28, 2023 9:01:30 AM
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Tuesday, November 28, 2023 9:41:30 AM
   IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . :
   Temporary IPv6 Address. . . . . . :
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . :
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . :
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Saturday, November 25, 2023 10:05:18 AM
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Wednesday, November 29, 2023 9:01:32 AM
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
                                      
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . :
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 100720716
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-2C-EF-F6-E0-00-E0-4C-C8-8E-D1
   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . :
                                      
                                      
                                      
                                      
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix Search List :

Generic adapters like these perhaps: https://www.daraz.com.np/products/u...a0e.searchlist.sku.22.58a11afeWPUxzA&search=1

However, brand name adapters are too expensive (at which price i can just get a new H61 motherboard with gigabit ethernet)
 
It's not clear what controller is being used in that generic adapter, but if it's Realtek it ought to work okay. Seeing as you don't have any USB 3.0 ports just don't expect to get more than maybe 300 mbps or so out of the adapter. There will be more overhead than using PCIe/built in ethernet, but I'm not sure what it would end up looking like on a platform that old.
 
By removing the IP addresses you also removed information relevant to your network.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-...thin a specific,is used for the communication.

Private IP addresses are used by thousands of home and small business networks.

What you do not want to reveal is the Public IP address assigned to the router via your ISP.

That address can be found by you using tools such as "What is my IP?".

The whole of "ipconfig /all" will often reveal conflicts and misconfigurations regarding IP addresses.

Revealing, for example, that two network adapters are enabled at the same time. There should only be one network adapter enabled barring some special circumstances or requirements.

There are those who are concerned about revealing MAC/Physical addresses. For the most part that is not something to be concerned about. MACs are useful in that they can be used to help identify a device by the manufacturer's portion of the MAC.

If you have router make and model X and the IP address is not consistent with the expected IP addressing then that can indicate a problem. Some caution is needed because end users can change such things and do so. However, it is very easy to make some errors of omission or commission while doing so.

All the more so, if someone has done a factory reset on the router. The router may (via the default login name and password) be wide open for others to access the network. Especially via wireless.

= = = = Regarding your "ipconfig /all" = = = =

One immediate issue is the 40 minute lease time for IPv6. Although the lease time should not make a difference a longer lease time is more commonly used. My recommendation is at least one week if the router (modem/router) permits.

On the otherhand, IPv6 can be problematic and disabling IPv6 is one way to solve or eliminate some problems. You could start with disabling IPv6.

Leaving IPv4 intact for the network devices to use. IPv4 is shown using a 48 hour (2 day) lease time.

The default gateway is also important to know. It could be your router or some other device. Likewise for the DNS Servers. My router is 192.168.1.1 (Linksys) and very commonly used. I use Google's DNS servers at 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 - also commonly used.

The network adapter configuration is important. Speed and Duplex should be set to Auto allowing the network devices to negotiate the speeds. Changing to some particular settings can and does cause problems.

Bottom line being that the performance cap may be configuration related and not necessarily solved by a USB network adapter.
 
By removing the IP addresses you also removed information relevant to your network.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970#:~:text=The hardware within a specific,is used for the communication.

Private IP addresses are used by thousands of home and small business networks.

What you do not want to reveal is the Public IP address assigned to the router via your ISP.

That address can be found by you using tools such as "What is my IP?".

The whole of "ipconfig /all" will often reveal conflicts and misconfigurations regarding IP addresses.

Revealing, for example, that two network adapters are enabled at the same time. There should only be one network adapter enabled barring some special circumstances or requirements.

There are those who are concerned about revealing MAC/Physical addresses. For the most part that is not something to be concerned about. MACs are useful in that they can be used to help identify a device by the manufacturer's portion of the MAC.

If you have router make and model X and the IP address is not consistent with the expected IP addressing then that can indicate a problem. Some caution is needed because end users can change such things and do so. However, it is very easy to make some errors of omission or commission while doing so.

All the more so, if someone has done a factory reset on the router. The router may (via the default login name and password) be wide open for others to access the network. Especially via wireless.

= = = = Regarding your "ipconfig /all" = = = =

One immediate issue is the 40 minute lease time for IPv6. Although the lease time should not make a difference a longer lease time is more commonly used. My recommendation is at least one week if the router (modem/router) permits.

On the otherhand, IPv6 can be problematic and disabling IPv6 is one way to solve or eliminate some problems. You could start with disabling IPv6.

Leaving IPv4 intact for the network devices to use. IPv4 is shown using a 48 hour (2 day) lease time.

The default gateway is also important to know. It could be your router or some other device. Likewise for the DNS Servers. My router is 192.168.1.1 (Linksys) and very commonly used. I use Google's DNS servers at 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 - also commonly used.

The network adapter configuration is important. Speed and Duplex should be set to Auto allowing the network devices to negotiate the speeds. Changing to some particular settings can and does cause problems.

Bottom line being that the performance cap may be configuration related and not necessarily solved by a USB network adapter.
you're misunderstanding the onboard NIC is a 10/100
 
Understood.

However, it is still a network adapter (Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller as noted by @thestryker) and must be properly configured for the host network.

As would be necessary for an onboard wireless network adapter.

Likewise for a USB network adapter be it wired or wireless.

The applicable network adapter drivers need to be installed.

The next step being to configure the network adapter to communicate with the router starting with the applicable IP address block and subnet mask. The latter almost always being 255.255.255.0
 
Understood.

However, it is still a network adapter (Realtek PCIe FE Family Controller as noted by @thestryker) and must be properly configured for the host network.

As would be necessary for an onboard wireless network adapter.

Likewise for a USB network adapter be it wired or wireless.

The applicable network adapter drivers need to be installed.

The next step being to configure the network adapter to communicate with the router starting with the applicable IP address block and subnet mask. The latter almost always being 255.255.255.0
I'm sorry for the misunderstanding, the realtek PCIE is the onboard one and I have hidden the IPs.
 
Per my comments in Post # 5 and the referenced Lifewire link you do not need to hide the IP addresses.

The private IP addresses along with other details of "ipconfig /all" are necessary for troubleshooting purposes.

My router (Linksys) uses the commonly configured 192.168.1.1 and my Desktop is currently assigned DHCP 192.168.1.201 (Preferred). Subnet mask being 255.255.255.0 as can be expected for most small networks.

When there is a network problem (overall or with just one network) device I start troubleshooting by checking "ipconfig /all" followed by other troubleshooting actions as warranted.

To learn more about ipconfig:

https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/administration/windows-commands/ipconfig

You can easily find other similar links.

However, 'ipconfig" is a starting point.
 
It's not clear what controller is being used in that generic adapter, but if it's Realtek it ought to work okay. Seeing as you don't have any USB 3.0 ports just don't expect to get more than maybe 300 mbps or so out of the adapter. There will be more overhead than using PCIe/built in ethernet, but I'm not sure what it would end up looking like on a platform that old.
There are 2 USB 3.0 ports !
 
Have you tested them to make sure? I looked up the specs of that board and it said they were all 2.0 including the 19 pin connector. It's of course entirely possible that's a misprint.
I have tested with a USB 3.0 drive and I received a copy speed of ~ 120MB/s (this was when I had a HDD and was copying videos from my PC to laptop). I have long lost that pendrive though. There is also a front panel connector for USB3.0 but my case doesn't have that so I'm not using it. The 2 USB 3 ports are on the motherboard back panel .
 
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I have tested with a USB 3.0 drive and I received a copy speed of ~ 120MB/s (this was when I had a HDD and was copying videos from my PC to laptop). I have long lost that pendrive though. There is also a front panel connector for USB3.0 but my case doesn't have that so I'm not using it. The 2 USB 3 ports are on the motherboard back panel .
In that case the only thing you'll have to deal with is the CPU overhead which I can't imagine being an issue. Unless of course you plan on maxing out your network usage while doing the same on the CPU.